Is there room for one of these. I used them a lot working in tight areas on airplanes.
10mm Metric Fix Tubing Wrench，Flex-Head Gear Wrench, Ratcheting

 

Something like these two, still doesn't have enough room. Also tried this flare nut tubing wrench both Wrench the pan upward lip around the edges doesn't alow them to grab the bolt head good enough to spinning it off. I would think the Dealers mechanics have something that works or they "Lift the motor up" enough to get something on it.

 

Swivel socket and wobble extensions may also help, definitely helped me. I also did use what what the other 2 respondents suggested.

 

Swivel socket and raise the engine/trans up some.

 

Not sure if that entails taking some parts off or loosening up a lot of other parts just to lift it maybe 1 to 1.50 inches. Absolutely no YouTube videos out there - - - or I'm using the wrong wording for the hunt.

 

I want to come back to see answers that come in later. I just don't have one and want to learn. I watched a youtube and the guy didn't make an issue about that one bolt, but did angle the wrench to get at it. Maybe "good enough" does it. First, see if the tools you have will get that one tough bolt off before going full on to the job. If it does, great.

 

Yeah I've also watched some and your right they don't show ANYTHING that has more to the job to extract troublesome areas of the job.

Any to most YouTube'rs will NOT show every aspect of his/her work duties or the most hassling areas only a short version to get there 5 minutes of fame.

 

I use a lot of 1/4' sockets with wobble extensions and have good luck on cars with similar tight space issues.

 

This bolt where its at goes well beyond any 1/4" swivel socket usage as what's there for working room is at a very small space.

 

A swivel socket, as shown above, is needed. Not a swivel and socket.

I'm not too bashful about "tuning up" sockets and other tools at my bench grinder when clearance is needed, making sure that sufficient engagement and strength is retained...

 

That's why I linked that specifically shallow 10 swivel. It'll grab it.

 

Will a 10MM regular socket for a 1/4" drive fit on it?

If so, you may want to consider a wobble extension even if you only have room to start loosening it. Then remove the socket and use your fingers.

The wobble extension allows you to enter the extension into the socket at an angle.

In McMasters a 10mm regular socket is 3/8" shorter than a 10mm swivel socket.

https://www.amazon.com/DAKCOS-Extension-Extensions-Premium-Vanadium/dp/B0CLTL5RJG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=37G0W7L4DN706&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2z6NFG0bhpoR4bzJNbQ3zQDjb7yBxRFLXXsd6ca-0oFtHdbg0eM4fl6bj_Iy1KTbQsjmo-Z2DZi85J9f9OCb5e0EvvF60XDhILHK5tAgOmhA4PYdQRbAwlbWNPwiutRH28-tnM8-hIxBi_CHY-SNgz5HxhpRO5ok0Yf-UgzH1CfslNUC5megOfOodq8a5BxnD1urXqvHLe9XZOuHKF94uBpAOmR54RlemheeC3swvZwzgyh08eDUwQ7kCv12MoywUbw08HLpOT--ebIZ1pmKRJGScDvL-j5m7HBNQ9m-hzE.ClesRWnQ8ePqjMbmKufGqMR8J1yurO6_f6gzcMFk3Dg&dib_tag=se&keywords=wobble+extension+1/4"&qid=1730766021&sprefix=wobble+extension+1/4+,aps,107&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

Suggestions are great and welcomed but without a tried and true method in what a/that person has used specific tools for the job will remain just suggestions.

So far my/this thread and postings has had 277 people look at and read about my problem without giving me a real person that has did a filter change that used or did a proven solution and used specifically one kind of tool or other to extract that very hard to get at 10mm bolt.

I'm looking for that very same person that has did it to tell me and this forum HOW HE/SHE DID IT AND WHAT THEY USED " TOOL WISE".

 

10mm swivel socket As Bitter and dddd said, this is the tool for that job. Those two members are Camry encyclopedias, IMHO.

Every time this comes up in TN, that's the answer they get.

 

10mm swivel socket As Bitter and dddd said, this is the tool for that job. Those two members are Camry encyclopedias, IMHO.

Every time this comes up in TN, that's the answer they get.

Have one coming from Amazon so will see.

 

I wouldn't call myself a Camry encyclopedia, just been a tech for about 18 years and work on a lot of tight access parts. A few Camry in that time, but there's people with more Camry specific knowledge than I have.
If that was in my bay I would grab that socket and jack the engine up a little by the oil pan, maybe loosen some mounts if I needed to get higher up. You'll have a hard time getting the pan in and out that close to frame, let alone getting the bolt out or back in straight. Apart is easy, together is usualy harder.

 

I wouldn't call myself a Camry encyclopedia, just been a tech for about 18 years and work on a lot of tight access parts. A few Camry in that time, but there's people with more Camry specific knowledge than I have.
If that was in my bay I would grab that socket and jack the engine up a little by the oil pan, maybe loosen some mounts if I needed to get higher up. You'll have a hard time getting the pan in and out that close to frame, let alone getting the bolt out or back in straight. Apart is easy, together is usualy harder.

That socket is on its way so I'll see if it alone can get into that tight space. I've already dropped the pan twice before using for that bolt alone a 10mm box end wrench and yes just getting that one bolt out is a 10 to 20 minute deal and then putting in back in I've got it down to 5 minutes. For the pan taking out and back in it's not a problem at least for me anyway.
I've got a PM on the way for a request on another note.

 

I'm looking forward to reading that you did the job successfully, though working that one bolt took more time and care than all the others. If anyone would be willing to jack up their car and figure out the problem at their own effort, then come back and show you they did it, is asking a lot, but there are a few youtubes which you already watched that show the job to not be impossible. Perhaps, to go to a shop and ask a mechanic to remove that one bolt for you might be best. Even better if they let you watch them do it. The most important tool in my toolbox, I've learned to always use first, is a short prayer. Good luck....if you haven't already finished the job.

 

This is what I’ve used on every transmission pan bolt in my 2014 camry every time and its worked great. The dime is for size reference. 1/4 drive shallow 10mm wobble socket and extension by Mac tools. Although im sure other brand tools would work.

 

This is what I’ve used on every transmission pan bolt in my 2014 camry every time and its worked great. The dime is for size reference. 1/4 drive shallow 10mm wobble socket and extension by Mac tools. Although im sure other brand tools would work. View attachment 468036

Wobble type 10mm socket got here today but will have to wait for a while to try it. Not sure the way it's made for the cross pins (pencil shows area) straight across from each other for the tool having support/strength in that area opposed to other u-joint wobble type sockets (also pencil showing area ) by the way it's pins are positioned separated from one another thinking this tool has more support/strength then the TEKTON Tool.
But in the long run were only talking about a bolt having maybe 20 inch lbs of tourqe anyway and this new swivel socket has a better angle than that other older one. I think it will do nicely and get the job done.

On another note just a few yrs ago sold my 64 Chevy ll having it for 38 yrs. It was a sad day but all things have to go sometime. The deuce was sold for room for my 68 C10 rebuild.

 

Just do a "Drain and Fill" and forget about the pan removal. The Car Care Nut recommends this.

 

Don't know who this "The car Care Nut" is but if anybody that does recommend changing "fluids" like transmission or oil fluids and not the very same FILTERS that keeps fluids cleaner well I can only say He/She is definitely DEFINITELY A NUT.

Case in point, We have two older cars (96 Camry I4, 300k) and a (03 Accord I4, 330k) that has Never seen a Dealer since we drove them home New. I do all there maintenance including filter changes regularly and from time to time also check there Compression readings with really not much change from the first readings in or about 50k miles.

So if anyone that neglects filter changes thinks he/she is saving a few bucks ($30 to $50) the Long Run will show it wasn't a good idea. There's a good reason why my two older cars have the mileage's they have. We're pushing for 600k + + +.

 

The trans filter on those transmissions isn't a filter like an engine oil filter, wear particles in the trans are so small they mostly pass through the filter and stay suspended in the fluid, stick to the magnet, or coat the bottom of the pan slightly. It's there to keep 'the marbles' out of the fluid pump and to keep the trans working as it grinds itself to death basically because if the filter is clogging the trans is shredding itself and needs a rebuild anyway.
Some do have a filter like an oil filter, older Saturns for example had a spin on cartridge. You could install a filter like that in the cooler lines if you desired but the pressure and flow drop would need to be carefully calculated to make sure it doesn't starve the trans.

 

Here's another CASE in POINT on not doing fluid and filter changes on regular intervals. Some where in this " Forum (Oops its somewhere else) " I have a posting on one of our other cars a 14 Camry I4 that developed trans Shuddering at 30-50 mph. It turned out I just plain forgot to do fluid and filter changes on it. It was at 110k when all the shuddering started now its at 126k and counting. We had at that time 4 cars, one 68 C10 I'm rebuilding and one Harley so it fell through the cracks in some maintenance. I've been through 5 fluid and filter changes since the Shuddering in the transmission and so far so good. That's not to say it may or may not need a rebuild sometime in the future. So far I've dodged that bullet but still keep my fingers crossed.

 

Shuddering is the additive package in the fluid is used up. Just ask my old Outback.

 

The filter in these cars is selective as to particle size, as mentioned already.

As such, these filters tend never to need replacement, as they don't develop any troublesome pressure drop (i.e. restriction).

Replacing the fluid is always good, as the fluid degrades in many different ways, additives peter out and really fine contaminants accumulate to a point where seals that deal with sliding action may not move as freely as they once did.

Obviously, a pan-drop is more thorough, and removes silt in the pan that otherwise tends to contaminate new fluid.
On the 2012-early 2014 cars, dropping the pan gives the opportunity to add two magnets and also remove wear material from any shuddering flex-lock clutch.

But doing a fluid replacement plus one or three purges out of the return line (perhaps the easiest part of the job) will fully restore the fluid's important qualities and will also help prevent shudder in the 2012-early 2014 I-4 cars.

I did a full 9.5-qt replacement out from the return line when my 2015 Camry had only 24k on it, simply because I wanted the break-in fill out of it (was a used-car purchase). No regrets, I didn't drop the pan and probably never will.

 

If you have a fluid sucker and a lot of time you can get nearly the dry fill capacity out of most transmission. I got 8.5qt out of my U240E using a fluid sucker and a few days of time. The key is to start it, go through the gears quickly, then shut it off. That pumps the last bits of fluid out of the TC and valve body and gets it all drained down. Once you no longer feel the trans jerk against the brake then you know all the fluid is out and draining to the pan. Usually only takes 2 times, fluid film will keep things safely lubed for the less than 30 seconds it takes.

 

Not sure what your fluid sucker is in it's design - show n tell Bitter. Also not sure where the starting point for the extraction point is so also show n tell please.

 

I've read enough threads on the felt type filters to know that I can leave the original in both of our Camrys and do a couple drain and fills. But after a lifetime of changing filters and fluids it's kind of hard to stop that habit. What will get me is I have to know what's in the pan, so what I'll probably do is drop the pan and change the filter. Don't have to but it'll be done and probably won't be done again, just drain and fill from there on out.

This forum is great for shade tree mechanics like me.

 

These are all 10mm socket options I have used to access the oil pan screws. One is the adjustable T Bar and the second is the ratchet wrench, extension and 10mm socket.

 

The "not change the filter" idea. Metal pans collect fine metal shavings accumulated over the years of driving. If the oil pan is removed with the tools listed above, replacing the filter is the next step. When wiping the bottom of the pan with a white paper towel, appreciate that those metal shavings will no longer circulate in your fresh oil change.

 

My initial question was specifically on how and what tool to use for one very close tight area for a # 10mm bolt to get out. Bitter was the only one that suggested on using a specific wobble type socket Texton 10mm short wobble socket. That socket got here yesterday and it got put to use right away and with lifting the motor/transaxle up 1/8" or so his socket type was able to do the job, all I did was unloosen it and re- tighten back up as Temps here are dropping down to mid to lower 30's. At least I know it works. THANKS to all for your suggestions, not to hurt anyone's feelings but some had better ideas then others but all were a step in the right direction.

 

I didn't mention it, but yeah, if I had the pan off for any reason I would replace the filter with OEM part and then tear into the old one for research as to what went through there.
Oh, and add two more magnets to any pre-2014.5 I-4 car's pan.
An extra quart comes out just with the filter drop, not to mention at least another full quart that sits in the pan below the pan's threaded bung
I used a very thin, curved piece of silicone tubing to vac-extract an additional 2/3 quart from the pan after initial half-hour of draining, for a total of 3.0 quarts removed at that point.
I then (after over-filling by 1qt each time) followed up with three ~2qt purges out from the cooler's return line nipple, as this was an easy thing to do at that point, and which chased out nearly all of the ~4qts of old fluid held back in the TC and filter.
I believe I achieved a full 90% or better of old fluid getting removed using such a sequence, using only 9.5 qts of new fluid in the process.

I do expect the essential pan magnets to pick up virtually all of the metal debris in the pan, as these can be large clumps of magnetic fuzz over hundreds of thousands of miles and we wouldn't want such steel debris sloshing unfiltered through the differential bearings (that rely on splash lubrication only, direct from the sump).

 

OK I've been ignoring this job myownself while I've struggled to figure out the S1 problems. But with winter on the way I'll retire from most of the crawling until some better weather...when that happens, I want to be PRE prepared with a couple gallons of ATF. I've read many opinions here and am still not convinced I should pour (literally) $20 per qt fluid into a 101k '02 camry... So I'll send out an appeal... If you can afford dealership juice, I'm happy for you. But on SS and with many other ways to spend it (electricity, water, and food just to name a few) I'm looking at WS labels on WalMart Valvoline or Castrol pretty strongly. Opinions or examples of why or why not will be very appreciated! I have no trans issues at the moment and I'm the 2nd owner with a stack of dealership invoices that accompanied the car - lots of oil changes, but I can't find a thing about the trans through over 60k miles. Fluid is so clean I can barely see it on the stick, if that accounts for anything. I loved my dog too, so she'd enjoy an occasional chunk of venison, but her bowl was full of dog food - not rib eye steaks. 🐾

 

If you drop the pan have some extra magnets to glue into the pan. Once the magnet gets too much of a beard it stops magneting. More magnets more magneting.

 

All of the four magnets in/on the pan have a space designated for them and all the times I've dropped the pan there still in the same spot every time - - - and there's no glue what's so ever that holds them in place - - - they stick themselves to the metal pan. Not too much of a beard is present so why add more?