J is for Japan sourced and L is for local sourced.
Either will work the different p/n was to track the supplier to Toyota.
Why do you think you need injectors?

 

Can't send yours out for servicing? Ex. Fuel Injectors Rebuild Kits bulk parts fuel injectors flow testing – The Injector Shop

 

x2 to have your originals rebuilt, rather than replace. Much lower cost and no risk of mistake.

If it really does have to be replaced they will tell you their test results before doing the rebuild.

Test = they confirm flow rate and spray pattern before and after cleaning.
"Rebuild" = ultrasonic clean and install new o-rings.

 

 

If you have access to a Power Probe 4, you can easily verify the electrical portion of the fuel injection system. This is a test of good fuel injectors:

 

Thank all of you. This is what has happened. The car would just stall out when at a traffic light or when you were driving slow. The code said that bank one had to much fuel (P)172). Parts are cheap and Toyota mechanics are not. So I went online and began swapping out parts. I replaced (not in order) the injectors (that is why I am asking that perhaps I put in the wrong ones) the fuel pump assembly, fuel filter) gas cap, air filter, idle control valve (three times they kept on melting when I purchased a cheap one) egr valve, manifold pressure sensor, I changed the transmission fluid (I read that if it is not shifting correctly you could get the PO172 error), the temperature sensors (both). Both oxygen sensors (Denso) the catalytic converter. Each time I did something the car would run great but not for long perhaps 10 miles but on more than one trip. In other words it would go 5-10 miles on a test drive and it would be fine the next time out after 2 or three miles the check engine light would be back on. So I figured (wrong again) that it must be the ECM, so I sent it out to be rebuilt and was told that it checked out fine.

The car has 135K miles on it and everyone says that are good for 250K so it should be worth fixing. If the injectors are not it I think I will just sell it.

 

idle control valve (three times they kept on melting when I purchased a cheap one)

This is a red flag: even inexpensive parts generally don’t melt. This is indicative of an overcurrent condition in the IAC wiring harness. Fix this first by checking for shorts in that branch. This would explain why you’re stalling as you slow down or come to a stop sign (foot off accelerator) as the ECM controls the engine’s idle speed via the Idle Air Control. The throttle body’s butterfly valve is completely closed off at that time and the bypass port feeding the air to the engine (this is how the engine remains running).

As far as your PO172 MIL code, there could be numerous reasons that code is setting. Clean or replace the mass airflow sensor: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and cause a rich fuel mixture. Replace faulty oxygen sensors: A faulty oxygen sensor can cause the engine to run rich. Clean or replace clogged fuel injectors: Clogged fuel injectors can cause a rich fuel mixture. Fix vacuum leaks: Damaged hoses or gaskets can cause vacuum leaks. Address fuel pressure regulator issues: Issues with the fuel pressure regulator can cause a rich fuel mixture. Replace spark plugs: Faulty spark plugs can cause a rich fuel mixture.

 

I4 CA