Engine on, and warm ( driven several miles in city ), not hot ( driven a couple of hours at 70mph ).
So, with engine warm, and car parked, cycle through the gears ( reverse, then drive ) a couple of times, then put in park, leaving the engine on.
Check the fluid now.
As far as never changing the ATF, I think most folks would disagree. I do a drain and fill ( which changes only about a third of the total capacity ) every 25 to 30K on my '02HL.
And AVConsult would add some Lubegard Red ( as I also do now ), which is a helpful friction modifier.

 

I was just about to ask this question, having drained and replaced 3 quarts this morning. The owners manual seems really unhelpful compared to other (used) cars I've owned.

For my Honda, you check the ATF with the engine warm but just turned off.

 

I have to agree the owners manual says nothing about how to check the transmission fluid...:facepalm: I agree with checking fluid on level ground, engine warm, and engine running.

 

All I do is get the car warmed up (5-10 minutes of driving), pull onto a level surface, pop the hood, set the parking brake and move the transmission through all the gears. Then pull the tranny dipstick, wipe it clean and reinsert, pull it out and then check that the fluid level is within "hot" range.

Clearly if the fluid is below the "hot" range after the car is warmed up, it's low. Fill through the dipstick port with a funnel in small incriments to get to the proper level.

Above the "hot" range or any foaming or excess bubbles would indicate aeration of the transmission fluid from an over fill.

If the transmission is over filled, you can remove fluid in several ways.

1.) Pump out through the dipstick hole

2.) Open the drain plug and remove some fluid.

3.) Remove the return hose from the radiator port, hook up a 2-3' length of 3/8"hose to the radiator port and into a pan, start the engine and pump out some of the excess.

Here's a good reference guide from the 5th-6th Gen Camry page.


http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/820538-diy-2002-2009-gen-5-gen-5-5-gen-6-trans-filter-change-fluid-flush-w-pics.html

 

ricco750, I noticed you mentioned "Lubegard Red" so I looked up the product website.
Says, it will help seals. I have a slight front diff fluid leak. Very slight, just basically wet around the area, does not really drip. Never see any transmission fluid on the garage floor. Been living with it for about four years now. (2003 V6 AWD, 247K miles). I'm gonna be changing transmission fluid sometime within the next two weeks. What can you say regarding Lubegard Red? Any recommendations? AVConsult please chime in too if you like. Thanks, Haya....

 

Yeah, AV's is the Genesis of using this product. I did not start using it to stop a leak, just to provide smoothness when shifting, which I believe it does, but I have no scientific proof it does so. I sure don't think it hurts anything, other than your wallet, as it's kinda pricey for 10oz of additive. But, if it prevents tranny difficulties for the future, it's cheap insurance.
And if you're about to change the fluid, and have never changed the filter, you might consider doing that as well, then add the whole bottle of Lubegard and top off with T-IV, as I did with my '02HL V6 FWD with 155K.

 

Okay, I'm gonna try some Lubegard. BTW- is there some information on changing the trans filter? That's a great tip. I searched and nothing came up on the 1st Gen HL forum. Haya....

 

I also own a 02 Camry XLE. Here's a good DIY transmission fluid and filter change from the 5th-6th Gen Camry page that is applicable to the 1st Gen Highlander. It even lists the part numbers you need.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...8-diy-2002-2009-gen-5-gen-5-5-gen-6-trans-filter-change-fluid-flush-w-pics.html

Last month I did fluid and filter change on my 5 speed Highlander and the 4 speed Camry. Not too bad of a job. The tip about loosening the transmission mount and lifting the trans 2-3" to get more access to the 3 pan bolts was invaluable. Not sure how one would do the job any other way.

 

For removing the pan bolts, I suspect a 10mm socket-end wrench might be able to get the bolts above the subframe without taking the engine mount loose. Most of them you can get with a box end wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet (swivel helps) but there's one in particular that's a real bear... I could get a regular combination wrench on to break it loose, but being less than 1/12th of a turn couldn't get back on it to turn any futher. I ended up using vise grips on a 10mm 1/4" drive socket to get it loosened to the point the bolt head was below the flange on the pan and I could get at if from the side. I had everything loose and already dripping, so I thought that was easier than having to find a good place to jack on the motor and having to re-torque the motor mount.

 

You don't have to touch the motor mount. Just loosen the driver's side transmission mount.

Using a screwdriver pop out the hole covers for the lower mount studs. Then using a ratchet, 17mm socket, and extension remove the 3 17mm nuts from the transmission mount. 2 are under the stud covers and one is exposed under the mount. Next, use a ratchet and 19mm socket to remove the upper nut behind the driver's wheel securing the transmission mount to the transmission.

Next Place your jack under the differential case of the transmission and lift the transmission as high as it will go before lifting the body off the jack stands. If the mount goes up with the jack lower the mount down to its rest position with your hands.

You now have 2+ extra inches to get at the hidden pan bolts.

It takes all of 5 minutes but makes this job a crapload easier. Less chance at cross threading the pan bolts when re- installing them as well.

Reference here w/ pics.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...8-diy-2002-2009-gen-5-gen-5-5-gen-6-trans-filter-change-fluid-flush-w-pics.html

 

Thanks guys for the tips for removing the pan. I'm gonna do that next time.

I went ahead and did a regular drain and fill. (3.5 quarts.) Only this time added a bottle of Lubegard Red. Last change was about 48k miles and previous changes had been every 50-60 k miles. Always Toyota ATF IV.

The drained fluid was still red but darker with no burnt smell. Actually smelled kinda good. Sweet.

First thing I noticed is smoother shifting. I had not been aware of how "raw" shifting had become before the ATF change. Also, the trans will downshift out of overdrive (4th) more readily. There's a curve followed by a hill on my way home. The car used to lug up that hill at about 35mph, now it downshifts and just zips up to the top like it used to.

Lastly, the car feels more "connected" to the road. Especially on downgrades with foot off the gas. It's just a seat-of -the-pants thing but the feeling is there is more engine braking on down grades. Does that make sense? Haya....

 

Just to add my comment on Lubeguard Red. My wife's 2008 Mazda CX-9 had a slight transmission shudder in fourth gear. Researched the web and Lubeguard Red showed up as a fix for it. I dropped the pan and changed the filter and then flushed the transmission fluid (all 9 quarts). Refilled but the shudder was still there. Then added Lubeguard Red and the shudder went away. That was 15,000 miles ago. I'm sold on Lubeguard Red. Added it to my other three cars.