i have the slightest idea. maby a off balanced tire?

maby BamZipPow or SC T100 will know ?

 

Now I'm even thinking it might be signs of a failing Rear Axle Differential? Most of the vibration somehow feels like its kicking from the rear and not the front that's I didn't really think its tie rods.. Other than differential failure signs...can having old(unchanged)fluid or low fluid cause this random vibration?

 

I'd get it up on jack stands and make sure there's no play in the wheels, steering or brake system. Does it feel like it favors one side or the other? Is it the same side as the tie rod with play and a cracked bushing? If you can visually tell the tie rod bushings need to be replaced, I'd definitely take care of that and see if it helps before replacing anything that isn't apparent.

I once had mild shaking that started to get worse over the next day or two. Got it home, and found I had a couple of lug nuts that weren't tightened properly, and they slowly kept backing out as I drove. Moral: checking those little things can make a big difference!

 

2ndbreakfast, Thank you sir. I will definitely look into that. I'm off today and I'm going to lift it up and check for more play on wheels.. wheel bearing.

Maybe doing all this online research is bad.. I'm going all over the place. I should look at the apparent problems first maybe the tie rods having play on driver side/damaged-depleted dampers/bushing as a example before venturing out further on my options list.. thanks!

 

Check your U-joints. I had random vibration also
CAMMcC

 

First, welcome! :thumbsup:

Post up a bunch of pics of your truck...we like to see what everyone is running!

I would agree with the above posters on where to start. And yes, it's very easy to look online and come up with a million reasons for a vibration.

However, I would say to check the easy things first.

1) I seriously doubt the brake booster could cause these issues. They usually either work or they don't. They don't tend to cause any other issues.

2) You say the truck is a 4x4. The chances are your driveshaft is in desperate need of greasing of the 11 zerk fittings along the driveshaft, as well as the two slip yokes (front and rear...where the smaller part of the driveshaft slips into the larger section to allow for movement). Get a grease gun and some high quality grease and hit the 11 zerk until the new grease squeezes out of the U-joints at each zerk. Then hit the two zerks (i.e. one for the front and one for the rear) for the slip yokes and pump a good bit of grease into them...if it starts to ooze out stop. This is a messy job but a vital one, as you will have to wipe all the U-joints down as the new grease comes out. This will eliminate any binding issues if the joints are still good.

In fact, after greasing everything, you may want to remove the driveshaft and play with all the joints to make sure they are stuck/grinding/sticking.

2) Get the tie rod end replaced (you may want to do both sides as a precaution). A loose one could be a safety issue, and I wouldn't be surprised if that might cause the steering wheel to shake some.

3) Have those tires balanced and rotated. They may be newer, but that doesn't mean they are perfect. And make sure the shop uses the correct adapter for Toyota wheels...the wheels are hub-centric, so will need the correct mount.

4) If none of the above work out, then move on to the center support bearing on the driveshaft. However, if it were bad, I would suspect the vibration would be constant.

Do the brakes shudder when you apply them?

My guess is it's the wheels and tires, as well as that loose tie rod.

However, while you're under there messing around, I would suggest replacing the sway bar bushings and end links, as well as the steering damper. Bam has a thread about the sway bars, and I posted a thread about the steering damper. And you may want to replace the shocks all around as well. If they are a flat black color with no markings, chances are they are original and likely no good anymore. :thumbsup: And most of all, let us know what you find!

 

Thank you SC T100! Glad to be in the forum and active forum it's awesome!

During the vibration episodes when I come to a red the vibration/shake continues until I come to a full stop... i guess what is feels like is exactly what it is.. the brakes slowing down a shaking/vibrating truck so it feels like a shudder.

Without the vibration episode..In normal driving condition there is a little bit of shudder depending if I going a little fast lets say 45-50mph and lights turn red and I need to hit it but if its steady traffic of 35-40mph maybe its more like im coasting and there is no type of shudder. When the mechanic drove it around the 2nd time as I mentioned I brought it back to the shop the same drive when I found out vibration was still there...he said that little shudder is pretty normal being a 4x4.. SC-T100 is this guy right or just blowing smoke up my butt.. he said he was suspecting the BRAKE BOOSTER because it was PAINTED SILVER.. he says it may not be original part and seller might have swapped it out with something else... but I looked online and found engine bay of t100 with silver color BRAKE BOOSTER something I'll have to tell him.

Otherwise, thank you very much to narrow what I want to do next.. I'm just waiting on the new Lug Nuts on the mail and I will bring the truck to the shop.
The "things to do" list will be:
1) See if they will agree to drive the same route/distance from a cold start so they can experience the vibration themselves.
2) Alignment, Wheel Balance, Lug Nut replacement check
3) Tie Rod (L/R front) replacement
4) So that little square U bar on the bottom of the truck, behind the engine and everything else is indeed a sway bar right? Anyway, yep replace the damper/bushings on those make sure thats also tight.
5) U joints inspection, I will copy and paste your post so mechanic can read vital areas for checking AND if everything is still good.. GREASE EM with high quality grease.

This will be set around the next couple weeks but I will come back and provide update. I'm really crossing my finger we can nail this and get this truck running in good normal and safe condition.

 

Try putting truck in neutral and coasting when vibration starts and see if that helps.

Brake booster should have nothing to do with your vibration. As mentioned earlier they either work or don't.... that is about it.

 

Tooks some snaps under the truck.. here is the support sway bar looking thing under the truck I'm talking about... this is some sort of sway bar right?

This big screw drops over to main truck frame.

This driver side where it secures has play.. looks like its worn dampers but I can wiggle the bar a little bit 0.2" give or take type of play.

Going to reply and post pics of my tie rods.. ordered on ebay and tie rod set should be coming in next week.

 

Here is some pictures of my tie rods.

DRIVER SIDE:

cracked/weathered/worn dampers

as you can see new cv axles didn't solve the vibration issue thats why I'm looking at the tie rods now.

PASSENGER SIDE:

As I mentioned on my original post above. Most play is on driver side. With the car sitting I can wiggle it a bit about 0.2" inches of play.. I already ordered parts on ebay and should come in next week... I hope I can finally get over this problem so I can use the truck with more confidence and put a little investment into it to last me a few years.

 

Yep, the first set is the sway bar and end links. There is a thread on here regarding their replacement that Bam started. It details what kit to order to replace the worn bushings and end links with poly bushings and new hardware. it includes the part numbers as well...total cost is about $40.

I can also see the ball stud on your Pitman arm (connecting the power steering box to the steering linkage) looks in rough shape. You may want to check into its replacement, as well as a rebuild of the idler arm. The idler arm is very cheap to rebuild and there is a thread on here for that as well that I made with pics and part numbers.

Let us know how much difference the new tie rod end make.

 

I would pull the metal bracket off the sway bar and visually inspect the rubber bushing. Mine was worn through on one side before I replaced mine.

 

looks like you've got a good list of to do's there.
Replace those torn bushings for sure! Seeing it now, I'd bet that steering link bushing is part or all of the problem.

Good call on the possible warped rotors, too.

 

Just a couple of things you mentioned-
U-joints - they can seem fine with the DS mounted, but unbolt it at the ends and you can find a different result.
Does the DS have an center carrier bearing (2 pc DS), they go bad and cause vibes.
Sway bar bushings too, and the link from sway bar to wheel can cause an annoying clunk, but not usually vibes.
If the vibes are at a specific speed wheel balance is a likely cause. and the tires themselves, xtremely aggressive tires wear very poorly and cause many vibe problems. My worn 36" swampers make it shake and look like I have 6 dash boards a 35 +/- 2 mph. I had them rebalanced and its better, but what I really need is $1600 for new ones (donations accepted), ANd don't count out a bad pinion angle or out of balance Drv Shft, they'll both act up at specific speeds.

 

Some update.

I know I mentioned that I haven't been exactly driving the truck due to the problem but I've discovered more issues recently after a run to pick up a washer for a friend.


There was the vibration that happened to the destination and back home.. as expected.

But there's a couple things I felt in the truck that's different since I took it to the shop for that first trip when they replaced CV axle, Brake master and front calipers.

Please keep in mind the traffic flow is stop and go traffic and not freeway. Hit red lights every 1/4 mile is normal.. anyways here it goes..

1) At first the brakes pedal it required more 'push' than usual during the early start then mid way to the trip the brake pedal was hard to push down.. it would stay like this for a bit then it would go back down to needing more push to get the brakes to bit.

2) When passing near a wall, cars or lets say overpass where maybe the sound from the bottom of the truck can be heard there is this somewhat hiss type of sound.

3) When at a stop the truck is not rolling forward when I release brake and it's on DRIVE..feels like there is brakes being applied to the truck preventing it from rolling forward..

Question.. the t100 brakes is there 4 calipers for front and back or is it just 2 front caliper brakes then a handbrake system in the rear?
:wtf:

 

Some update.



I know I mentioned that I haven't been exactly driving the truck due to the problem but I've discovered more issues recently after a run to pick up a washer for a friend.





There was the vibration that happened to the destination and back home.. as expected.



But there's a couple things I felt in the truck that's different since I took it to the shop for that first trip when they replaced CV axle, Brake master and front calipers.



Please keep in mind the traffic flow is stop and go traffic and not freeway. Hit red lights every 1/4 mile is normal.. anyways here it goes..



1) At first the brakes pedal it required more 'push' than usual during the early start then mid way to the trip the brake pedal was hard to push down.. it would stay like this for a bit then it would go back down to needing more push to get the brakes to bit.



2) When passing near a wall, cars or lets say overpass where maybe the sound from the bottom of the truck can be heard there is this somewhat hiss type of sound.



3) When at a stop the truck is not rolling forward when I release brake and it's on DRIVE..feels like there is brakes being applied to the truck preventing it from rolling forward..



Question.. the t100 brakes is there 4 calipers for front and back or is it just 2 front caliper brakes then a handbrake system in the rear?

:wtf:

My t100 has 4 piston caliper only one on each side

http://i.imgur.com/0uQMd7j.jpg



and rear is drums

 

Well, the first issue sounds like it could be a few things. But my guess is the front brakes are sticking a bit, which would explain no rolling from a stop in drive, and possibly the hissing sound. It almost sounds like the pistons aren't sliding smoothly/correctly in the front calipers. And yes, the fronts are 4-piston. You may need to pull a front wheel off and snap some pics, and maybe have someone apply the brakes while you're looking to see if anything is binding or acting strange.

 

It's possible that yer booster is bad and the check valve isn't releasing properly. As a test, you can unplug the booster line (yer brakes will be harder to activate) and plug the vacuum line so yer engine won't try to die with the extra air it's ingesting. If yer brakes work correctly, you can put it back together and go git a new booster.

 

Thanks all. I will look into it.
Another question..with the truck off.. i press on the brake pedal and it goes firm but can still press down brake pedal...from previous experiences the pedal usually gets hard to push down...is this normal for this truck?
if not..what do you think is causing it? the recent update as i mentioned..when driving the brake pedalneeded more effort to stop the truck..then it got hard and brakes was sensitive and then it would revert bark to needing a little more effort for braking......that hiss type of sound is new though..i wonder if theres leaks..i hope the issues and cost doesnt pile up too high for me.. i was loiking at prices on ebay for 98 3.4 sr5 brake booster if thats the case...so this mechanic called it right? i hope it aint mechanic voodoo

 

is brake master the same as 'brake cylinder'?

 

Yep. Brake master cylinder.

 

Update: Still waiting on a couple parts.. typical issue being in Guam.

I found something interesting.. I'm not normally driving the truck based on the current condition and but usually just been starting it or driving around near the house.

Something interesting.. I notice the steering wheel is straight and front wheels are straight parked but when I drive it the steering wheel is turn to the left a little bit.. (maybe 11:30 compared to straight steering wheel 12oclock position).. the roll of the truck is also just to the left.. maybe this is linked with the TIE ROD that I mentioned this same post..


NEW DISCOVERY! Please note the truck was on PARK with the engine running when I did this:
The most interesting discovery I found out today was when driving the truck to my driveway I straightened the steering wheel and looked out to see the tires and yes it was straight ....BUT I played around with it to turn the STEERING WHEEL to the left and noticed the tires turned slightly to the left but somehow it sort of "straightened" itself out a bit (while steering wheel stayed 'turned 9oclock).. meaning I turn the steering wheel to the left by 25% from the straight 12oclock position for example it will only slightly turn... I was able turn the Steering wheel every 25% and notice there was hardly and changes to the front wheels..

So from the original 12oclock steering wheel = straight wheels.. slowly turned the steering wheel to the left 9oclock...6oclock and 4oclock it seems the front wheel (at least from what I can see on driver side front wheel.. the wheel was only turned slightly if not it was just one position which was slightly turned to the left!!.. I'm saying that the angle by then should have been more than it should!

Could this be all linked with that Tie rod, pitman arm and steering idle or something else? It's really interesting find.. and I can't help but wonder if this is linked to my main vibration/shake problem.

 

Update to share with TN T100 crew.

Trucks out of the shop.

Jobs done:
Bleed brakes
New front rotors+pads
Replaced booster(it was remanufactured) to a used but working booster and same spec off a 4runner
Installed ebay kit set tie rods, pitman, idle arm and lower/upper ball joints
Replaced stabilizer arm bushings
Replaced strut bushings

Discovered issue:
Note that I'm a noob trying to learn but here's me trying to share what I was told.. mechanic says vacuum line on driver side was much longer (usually shorter vs passenger?) and whoever did the brakes had the line somewhat bent that it cause some issue, using the same line mechanic says he just fixed the link properly...no collapse on lines.
I initially had planned to do just suspensions, bushings and rotors but was discovered the booster was a 'remanufactured' and it was faulty (cyclinder?) says it was the part that caused the slight hiss when passing cars/overpass/walls and perhaps the braking performance as it did not pass the brake test when starting the truck...

Main cause of the vibration according from this new mechanic was also the brakes.. as indicated from the previous mechanic who did my CV and master cyc.. somehow the calipers were locking or grabbing and was primary suspect for the vibration/jerking.


I'm probably the only one who didn't know better to invest on better brand name parts like MOOG for tie rod/pitman/idle and ball joints..

So I'd like to say that I guess I'm the new guinea pig for this set at this time for the ebay set I got from Ebay user "worldsuspension"... parts upon research seem to have had mixed reviews..I'm crossing my fingers that it will be ok in Guam.. speed limit is average 50 here.. but I do have concerns because the island does have some rocky roads.

The suspension part set according to the auction:
Part Brand:
ASP Private Label
Brand:
MAS Industries

If anyone else has legit feedback on the same thing please let me know but this is what I'm using right now and I hope it will last.. In the meantime I've started a savings fund for Moog.. it's going to be around $300+ to upgrade the parts..


What I can say now:
The truck seems to run more smoothly... the rotors/pads needs a little break in time but brakes feel solid. I will drive it more but seems the vibration episode is gone.

What's next:
1) I know I want to get timing belt done.
2) I was informed i had a small oil leak, or 'around the area' was wet (oil).. might need to replace "valve cover".
3) Mechanic says Shocks could be replaced
4) Mechanic says "control arm" is fair and could be replaced
5) Possibly have new better brand suspension parts ordered and stored due to lack of confidence on the ebay parts I just recently purchased/installed.

 

Another option would've been to use some vibration analysis software and the required hardware.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/vibsoft/Tools_Needed.htm

 

Glad you got it figured out. I would look into shocks, and the valve cover gaskets next. The valve covers gaskets are known to leak after a while, and it typically doesn't cause nay issues except for loss of oil and a mess on the driveway. The shocks will help the truck feel much better though.

 

Where do I find all the zerk fittings?

 

Where at you looking for them ?
It depends if people cheap out on parts the cheap parts don't have zerks

On my truck a 4x4 btw
Upper and lower ball joints on top and bottom

Tie rods on the bottom of them

Pitman arm at the bottom of the joint

Sway bar x2 at the bottoms ( aftermarket - energy suspension)

Drive shafts x6 ( I think idr) are on the ujoints 2 of them are in the cardoon joint

 

And how do you know how much to put in each?

 

on joints ( ball joints and tierods) I give them 3 pumps and that's it every oil change
On ujoints pump till you see new Grease and clean up

 

Thank you!