Take at look at the 2 rear lateral control rods on that side. You might even be able to reproduce the noise with your head under there (with the car supported safely on jackstands). It's usually the rubber bushings in the rear most one that go out first. but check both of them.

Mike

 

Hi Mike

Are you talking about this one? The end on the left?

 

OK. Just check last night and YES. The No2 on the passenger side is loss...

Instead of replace the whole rod, is there other way to fix it? I heard ppl using Teflon tape wipe around before install the bushing. Can I use Teflon tape just fix it for a year or something...

 

I wouldn't suggest that. You would need a pretty big hydraulic press to press the bushing in and out and I'm not sure if the bushings are even available seperately. I think you are just going to have to bite the bullet on this repair and buy the part OEM. Replace it and then redo the alignment. If you find this part or the bushings in the aftermarket, post back here so eveyone can benefit by your find.

Mike

 

I don't think that will work. I replaced this exact part on my Cam last week for the same reason. With the arm removed from the vehicle, it felt like there was a ball joint on the outer end. It's definitely not just a simple rubber bushing. I couldn't see any way to get in there and tighten it up. BTW, I purchased the new part from toyotapartsales.com; the "w/ ABS" version was ~$136 including shipping.

 

From ToyoDIY.com
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2001_TOYOTA_CAMRY_SXV20L-AEPNKA_4804.html?hl=48730F
Part number is 48730-33050

From ToyotaPartSales.com
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
4873033050 $159.79 $0.00 $124.88
Rear suspension - Lower control arm - Rear arm
Rear arm, camry, right, w/o solara, japan built - avalon, camry, corolla 1995-02 1997 - 2001
Shipping should be about $18.73...

Total is $143.61...

 

Bad rear Control Rod

This has been a really informative thread. I'm pretty sure I have the same problem on my passenger side rear wheel (1995 Camry LE Sedan). It's been going on for 2 years and I had it looked at. Thankfully i didn't trust the Monroe guys to replace my four struts and mounts for 800. One other mechanic said it was the bushings, and that he just greased them up for me for free. Basically, he said don't stress out over it. It has gotten a bit worse though. Rattling sounds on certain bumps.

How hard is this control rod to replace?? It looks like I don't even have to take the tire off and just have to undo two bolts. I can do my own oil changes, change a tire, and can put together ikea furniture. Should I try this on my own and then take it in for an alignment when I'm done?
I can't find any step-by-step info on the web. Any links?

Thanks for the info.

 

"Should I try this on my own and then take it in for an alignment when I'm done?"

You can give it a try. It is only those two bolts but they can be a PITA. I suggest soaking them in some good penetrating oil like PB Blaster (not WD-40) for a couple of days before trying this. Spary them each day and then drive the car for those days so the vibrations of driving will help the penetrating oil work itself in to the threads. Then try to loosen those bolts.

Mike

 

pc65 - Yeah, it's a pretty simple job. Like you said, There's no need to remove the tire, and get it aligned when you're done. I did mine with the rear wheels up on ramps. To get the alignment reasonably close (so I could drive to the alignment shop without tearing up my tires), I measured the center-to-center bolt-hole distance on the old part with a tape measure and set the new one to match it before installing it. And like Mike said, soak those bolts with some penetrating oil long before you tackle the job. Time is your friend.

The fasteners on mine were REALLY tight. I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar PLUS a 3 foot long piece of pipe to get enough leverage to crack 'em loose.

 

Thanks BMR and Mike for the tips! I'll put it on the jack and check it out. If it's the control rod, I'll get on those bolts and definitely take that bolt-to-bolt measurement. You guys rock. I'll post an update with how it turns out.

 

"I'll put it on the jack and check it out."

Be careful with the car on the jack. Don't get under there with it just on the jack. Get yourself some jackstands if you need to get under the car.

Mike

 

Called all over the place and some of them said it's dealer only parts.

Rockauto.com got those and seems cheaper than the dealership. My local (canada) dealership ask for $210!!!

1997 TOYOTA CAMRY LE 2.2L 2164cc L4 MFI (G) [5SFE]
Suspension : Control Arm
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1015472 {(Only 2 Remaining)}
REAR RIGHT LOWER; Japan Built
$81.79 $0.00 $81.79


The repair manual said the 181N.m(134ft.lbf ) for those nuts... Give yourself a image how tight it is... The front tire shows 103N.m(76ft.lbf)

I haven't get my parts yet. But I will start to put some oil on that nuts first.


Thanks everyone, I will keep update.

 

Got a brandnew one for just under $100cad. Starting put WD40 on that nuts this morning...

 

WD40? I'd reckon you wanna try the PB Blaster... It's a bit like getting Butter Mentols instead of something like Strepsils LOL

WD40... more of a lube than a penetrating spray... good for hinges, bike chains... blah blah blah

 

whip-cracker is correct. Get something like PB Blaster. While WD-40 is great for many things, it's not a great penetrating oil.

Also, where did you get the control arm for under $100 Canadian?

Mike

 

Will stop at CT tonight and grab one....

I called around finally there is a shop can get it for 75 plus tax. He seems know that problem pretty well. But I got my friend who open a car gerage can get the thing for $100 all in. I go for my friend.

Auto Parts International

796 Burlington Street East
Hamilton, ON L8L 4K3

(905) 547-1111‎

 

okok.... about 2 hours... Thanks everybody... Mike and Whip, you guys are great.

done.

couple tips... PB Blaster is must... Put it on, wait 10 mins, put it again, 10 mins.. with 2ft bar, Nuts get off easily.

The center nuts could be a problem, gas tank is just 5mm away from the bot. I can't put the socket in, went to CT bought a set of offset boxend wrench... not on sale... cost me $59... Never get enough tool!!!

You need to lose the left center side nuts as well, since there is a steel piece in the middle hold both nuts. You not be able to move it since the nuts is very tight...

I try to measure the length of the old one and set it on the new one, not sure if it works or not. Try to save that 70...

Q: how do you know you need to do the alignment???

 

Q: how do you know you need to do the alignment???

No way to know for sure without getting it checked. FWIW, the toe in/out on mine was out of spec by 0.8 degrees. Not enough to matter for the 20 mile trip to the alignment shop, but I'd guess it would've made itself known eventually by wearing on one side of tire.

 

Thanks BMR. I keep a eye on it.

 

Glad the hard job is done. I would get the alignment done. By just keeping an eye on it you will eventually notice rear tire wear. By then you will need to replace BOTH rear tires and then still get the alignment done. Tires should be replaced in pairs on the same set of axles to keep tread wear even. If the tires have different wear patterns and amount of tread on them (on the same set of axles) you will get some unusual handling characteristics. Get it done now before you wear that tire unevenly.

Mike

 

Thanks Mike. Will consider that...

 

This old post just saved me $300 that I would have wasted on a dealership part! I was convinced it was the rear passenger bearing (ABS version) and in fact it was NOT!

This is exactly the problem I was experiencing and I can get this part for around $100.

You guys are awesome, thanks!

 

Thanks guys for an informative thread, and a great sig quote:

" I can do my own oil changes, change a tire, and can put together ikea furniture. Should I try this on my own?"

I have the same clunk. It's getting a new suspension next week and this is now "on the list".

 

Energy Suspension makes a bushing kit for the control arms. But it doesn't include the bushings for the trailing arm that runs front to back. Anyone ever replace those bushings or arm? Mine is sloppy at the front bushing of the trailing arm. I'd hate to have to buy a new arm just for the bushing. Being a machinist, I think I will make my own bushing for it since I can't seem to find an aftermarket one for it.......