How do the wheel bearings feel? Jack up the rear wheel and push and pull at 12 and 6 o clock and 3 and 9 o clock to see if there's play in the bearing. If there's play in the bearing, then better to swap out the hub assembly. If no play, then just replace the studs.

 

Take in your receipt, demand that the shop fix what they screwed up. You should not have to pay for something that they messed up.

 

Replacing the studs was pretty easy. Unless you got some handy tools in the garage, rent that BJ press kit. Ask the shop to fix it! I am sure you can get the studs at autozone or something too. Check it vs RA -5% code + shipping...

 

Another option is to use a die and clean up the threads and get new lug nuts, assuming the threads are not too far gone.

I'd be worried that hammering could damage the bearings. The small press is the way to go. Check if you can rent one.

 

This, definitely. Don't create a bigger problem.

A Full Guide to Wheel Stud Replacement and Installation

Tightening lug nuts without a torque wrench can be a recipe for disaster. If you break the wheel stud, here's how to replace it.

www.familyhandyman.com

 

Same thing happened to me, fortunately I was watching them and they had to replace them for free. They cross threatened the lug nuts with the impact gun and 2 or 3 just broke off.

 

Ok, so the bearings feel fine on both sides. I'll probably opt to get the new studs, then give some pushback to the shop on putting them in. My worry is that they'll screw that up too (how hard is it--especially for a tire shop--to remove and install a wheel??), so maybe I'll just do it myself and see about some sort of refund from the shop for the tire job.

Thanks all!

 

I'm not sure you'd want to be near that shop in any case. LOL

My worry is that they'll screw that up too (how hard is it--especially for a tire shop--to remove and install a wheel??)

 

How can you be so friggin stupid to do that? My crush washer on the oil drain will last 100k miles. Lug nuts you spin on only a complete idiot would try to start them with a half inch gun which is about the only way you can do that. That shop needs to know it has a human hand grenade working there before someone gets hurt.

 

+1 on do it yourself. Just using that rented tierod/bj press/separator and any good press tool works fast. You only need to do a little bit to get that stud out (splined stud to thickness of that hub). By the way you can get a C clamp to work too... I tried it with a nut bigger than other side of stud and other side pushes on stud. But whatever good tool say 5 mins each. Putting new one in is even easier.

Even if that shop does not refund, try to get some simple service for free that they cannot mess up. If not, stay away.
Good luck.

 

Hammer out the old(watch for best spacing at rear). Drive in the new with one of the wheel nuts turned backward(conical side out), and a spacer(think large bolt).

Cheers from Canada!

 

If you swap out the lug studs, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE SURFACE OF THE MATING POINT WITH THE RIM FOR ANY DINGS OR IMPERFECTION. Dress them down with a file and make sure the surface is smooth or the wheel will not mate up true with the flange. Best to do that with the studs removed.

 

I prefer the washer and lug nut trick. It's easier on the wheel bearing. Have not tried it myself, but have seen it on yt. YMMV.

 

To make a long story short, I recently had to get new rear tires to pass inspection. The shop that installed them screwed up several of the lug studs on both rear wheels. Naturally they didn't tell me, and I found out when I tried to remove the wheels more than a month later. I couldn't get any of the lug nuts to budge and they were obviously installed unevenly, a few of the threads visible past the lug nuts were effed up too.

Here's my question: would it be more worth it to buy new rear hubs with the studs already installed (non-ABS, less than $40 each on RockAuto, + shipping) or save money and attempt to hammer out the bad studs and install new ones? I've seen several YouTube videos of people doing that without a press but I'm not sure how easy it would be to do it on the 8th gen Corolla. The studs are pretty cheap (<$1 each) on RockAuto, and of course whatever I do I'll be buying brand new lug nuts. Note that I'd probably opt to do all 8 rear studs.

Those clowns use pneumatic impact wrenches and just leave the torque setting on the same for everyone, including the Ford F350 that was just before you. I bought my tires from a chain who offers free tire rotation, balance and repairs and air filling...I thought it was silly since I do all my own but thought I'd see about having them do it. Next time I took wheel off for brake inspection, I was perplexed on how tight it was, then remembered. Sure enough two (of four) lugs were stripped. But they provided a voucher for me to take to shop, via tow (I was looking into replacing the lugs myself which seems straightforward on front). Of course the shop called to try to upsell more. It all worked out. But I just rotate tires myself now, usually when I change oil. So, I'd recommend calling shop first.

 

Replacement hubs are usually cheap and prone to early failure unless you buy oem or a good brand like MOOG, Timken...Do not hammer on the hub to remove the studs that will damage the bearing, only use a press to remove and replace.

 

I literally went to just help my brother with his car and two of his studs were completely shot. I used a breaker bar to remove all the bolts (both of the studs broke in half) and had to press out the studs with a tie rod end puller. I used a lug nut to pull the stud through flush to the hub using a 25in breaker bar (about 120ft/lbs or so until It looked flush visually and I couldn't fit my finger nail under).

The tie rod end puller might not be the best tool for the job in the future, but it worked ok.

 

BJ press (rental) that looks like a c clamp, or a C clamp works well I just use a nut or anything wider than stud head. Glad you did not hammer. When I did the wheel bearing replace, that race held on (which had to be pressed/cut split), so hammering does loosen the bearing race.
(For those hammer it folks) But If you were to press out stud and it came out at least 1/4th then even simple nail hammer is ok as along as you dont bang the heck out. And for them, applies is "to each their own" or whatever the saying is.

 

I’ve always been taught to hammer them out. That’s what everyone else at my shop does too. As long as you are careful. To reinstall I use two nuts to pull it through.

My customer recently had tires done at Sam’s Club and came in for brakes all the way around and all of his were stripped out they had used a boat load of anti seize and drove them down with an impact then used a torque wrench. They were extremely hard to even break loose. Every one of the studs except one or two were damaged or broke off. The junior tech was doing the job and got upset because he thought it was his fault but I reassured him he wasn’t and called Sam’s tire center and told them what happened and they laughed and said well we just do what they train us to do. So hopefully you don’t have that luck.