That is exactly what i did last year when i changed mine, saves a lot of time!

 

I need to replace my front struts too. This little trick has saved me before on other cars! :thumbsup:

 

Any tips to removing the front struts & getting to the upper strut bolts to get this out? Doesn't look as straight forward as on any of my cars! Also do the strut tops need to be replaced or have others just reused the OEM ones?

 

Struts (Previa)

With all the work involved yes I would replace the "strut mounts" & while you have everything off replace the "dust boots"...



remove glove box door & compartment & the driver side remove lower panel & the the cross member to access bolts (14mm bolts)

 

Those last two pictures are excellent Cal !!
And I agree on changing everything. You got it out , may as well get it done right !

 

Just ordered new strut tops & dust boots. :grin:

 

As long as you get KYB branded stuff, it's going to be exactly the same as Toyota OEM. Pack the strut mounts with bearing grease before install, I think they come dry, or on newer parts, it's a sealed bearing (even better!).

For the driver's side, I had to remove the air ducting to get to the strut mount nuts.

 

That's what I thought too so I ordered the KYB. There were a lot of strut top choices though!

 

regarding the "trick" above, I did something similar too, but I didn't actually cut out an entire section. I just cut a slit, and then bent the sheet metal to get the brake lines in and then bent it back into place. I preferred this way so there's more metal holding the brake line in place and there's no way it can accidentally "pop" off.

on the other hand, take a look at your brake lines... these vans are old enough that the rubber lining is likely to be cracked and those brake lines need replacing anyway.

as for tips to remove the 3 nuts on the strut mounts, it helps to have a low profile ratchet or an offset wrench to break the nut loose. once it's loose, i find it faster to get in there with a stubby ratchet or a socket with a knurl so i can just spin it by finger tips. support the entire strut assembly from below with a floor jack or something so it doesn't fall out/down as that makes removing the nuts more difficult. I normally loosen the two bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the struts, but keep the bolts in place, remove the 3 nuts on the strut mount, then get out of the car and hold the strut/springs with one hand and lower the entire assembly. once it's lowered enough to clear the wheel well, pivot outward and fully remove the 2 bolts. it's a good idea to have someone hold the steering knuckle and/or brake rotor assembly as it is only connected by the ball joint at this point and will just flop over and hit the floor. tie it up to something so that doesn't happen.

something to keep in mind, i experienced this myself and I've seen others report similarly. when you replace the struts, some cars seem to develop positive camber that cannot be adjusted unless you install an eccentric bolt. after putting everything together and letting the suspension settle, do a quick eye-ball check on your camber. if you think you have positive camber, order the eccentric bolts. driving around with positive camber has all sorts of strange 'effects' beyond just wearing the tires down in a bad way; like at 80% lock the wheel will want to turn itself to 100% lock.

 

when you replace the struts, some cars seem to develop positive camber that cannot be adjusted unless you install an eccentric bolt. after putting everything together and letting the suspension settle, do a quick eye-ball check on your camber. if you think you have positive camber, order the eccentric bolts. driving around with positive camber has all sorts of strange 'effects' beyond just wearing the tires down in a bad way; like at 80% lock the wheel will want to turn itself to 100% lock.

Did my struts yesterday, and I think camber is way off - Noticing the wheel turning by itself, pulling to the right, floating feeling. I looked online and see a TON of "alignment camber plates" (I think a.k.a. "eccentric bolts") options...do you know which is the right one to get, and how installed? Can this be done in in a driveway, or does it need a specialty mechanic?
Thanks!!