If you can get an impact socket on it I'd rent a healthier impact, safer and faster.
If not you could weld a new high grade bolt to it and then use a better impact.

 

Im asking the few truck mechanics I know, My impact has done a perfect job up to this point so spending the extra cash to upgrade isn't something Im interested in, I typically break it with a massive cheater bar easily when its still in the bay but I got ahead of myself as I was on a time crunch pulling the engine . Then to add to that I used a 12 point socket instead of my 6 points leading me here. I have looked for rentals however theres only one I can find near me thats cordless from home depot and its a 1/4in drive ill be able to call in the morning but my hopes are low they don't typically stock stuff like that there near me. Theres a few penumic 1" drives that I could rent but my compressor is not where my engine is.

I only have one balancer bolt for the new engine , would welding a socket on there work just as good its cheeper then the bolt. Im trying to avoid doing that as my welder is with my compressor .

 

Im thinking 19mm extractor socket, left handed drill bit, then if all else fails ill pull out the angle grinder and pray. The balancers trash so It doesn't need to be pretty

An angle grinder is too large IMO for this job.

I would take a Dremel with a cut-off wheel (made for steel) to the washer. Look up photos of the harmonic balancer so you know exactly what you are cutting into.

Be aware that most of the resistance to freeing the bolt is the friction between the washer and its mating surfaces. In other words, it is unlikely that the threads are seized up. Soak the washer with PB Blaster at its mating surfaces as best you can. [start edit] Cut the washer in two or more places, along radial lines, and remove the washer piece by piece. [end edit] Just the vibrations by themselves may free up the bolt. Maybe apply more PB Blaster at the cuts you make with the Dremel. Then I would be hopeful that the bolt will loosen with vise-grips. Alternatively get a hammer and chisel and use this to apply torque to the bolt (properly supporting the engine yada).

 

That’s (cutting most of flange off) exactly what it took to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off my 79 Celica. Took off 3/4 of it, then hit the rest of flange with an air hammer.

I was told by someone here about the flange,not the threads,was making for a stuck bolt

I thank DCM here for the tip.

A shop (Toyota dealer ) insisted engine would have to be removed. B.S.

 

Take a hammer and peen the end of the bolt head so it mushes the metal sort of back into place, then tap a 6 point impact socket onto it. Then use/rent/borrow either a 1/2" Milwaukee big boi impact or equivalent.

 

These guys carry electric 1/2" drive.

Impact Wrench - Electric - All Seasons Rent All

allseasonsrentall.com

 

Thank you, 20 min away from there

 

If you can get your hands on one of these, there’s a 99% chance it will rip that bolt right off. Milwaukee 2767-22 M18 Fuel Impact Wrench

I’ve been using this gun for nearly the last decade and it has NEVER failed me. It will even take Honda crank bolts off like butter. 1,400 ft lbs of nut busting torque and off she’ll come!!

I’ve

 

Lowest cost option:
Use an extractor socket, hammered on.
Put a crow bar into the starter gear teeth (flywheel) to hold the crank and use a long breaker bar on the bolt.

I had to JUMP on my 6ft breaker bar to remove that bolt from my engine (engine already pulled from the vehicle). The crowbar on the flywheel was how I held the crank from turning.


Alternative way to hold the crank: remove oil pan and put a block of wood where the crank is near the block.


x2 what Elle_Rav4 said: the friction is between the flange on the bolt head and the surface of the harmonic pulley. After the first few degrees of rotation the bolt will come out the rest of they way by finger force alone.

Buy a new bolt for re-assembly.

Throw away those evil 12 point sockets (mine are in a box, under the workbench and are pretty much never touched). I use 6 point ONLY.

 

Put a crow bar into the starter gear teeth (flywheel) to hold the crank and use a long breaker bar on the bolt.

^^ This, but with a 6 point socket / your Impact wrench, short 3-5 sec. bursts, until the bolt starts turning.

 

Stuff 2 cylinders full of rope at BDC then use that to bind the engine allowing the use of a breaker bar, once you have a solid bite on the bolt of course.

 

Possible to bend a connecting rod that way.

 

Stuffing 2 cylinders w/ rope is handy to lock the motor, depending on how "challenging" the bolt is to remove - I'd probably do both: lock the flywheel, -and- lock the cylinders w/ rope. (Spread the torque load) ... That bolt head looks pretty chowdered.

 

I think what happened is the impact was bouncing on the bolt, need to push into it a bit so it doesn't jump up and down sometimes, especially if you're not 100% squared up on the bolt head.

 

Looks that way to me also Bitter. Last "go-around" I had w/ one of these, I also used a Dremel (Elle_Rav4's post above) to clean up the bolt head faces w/ a grinding tool, w/ a metal file to get the bolt face to the point of driving the next size socket size down fully onto the bolt. ... It took a few hours+ to properly prep it, IIRC.

 

I've heard of people placing some thin sheet steel over the bolt head and hammering the socket on over that to take up the gap and give a tight fit, I've never tried it myself but I could see how it would work.

 

Rather than bending a con rod, more likely to bend valves using rope in the cylinder, unless you removed the rockers first to make sure they were all closed before the force was applied. This is why I prefer the crowbar on the flywheel ring gear (in through the starter hole).

Placing thin metal over the deformed bolt head is no longer necessary, now that extractor sockets exist (amazing how well they work on rounded, or severely rusted, bolt heads).

 

You won't bend a valve with rope unless you're putting steel cable in there.

 

Intentionally hydrolocking the engine is far easier and safer put a bit of oil in the most accessible cylinder. And no you won't bend a con rod they are about 100x stronger than any force you can apply to the crank bolt.

Of course you have to blow out all the oil before starting the engine but hopefully that is common sense.

 

put fire to it and use your best fitting socket

 

Not wise to use fire around the harmonic balancer because that may damage its rubber bonded ring.

 

Forgive me, but why can't you use this or something similar?

Someone also mentioned nut welding, which has a 100% success rate.

 

Exactly. Extractor socket set. All OP needs to solve their problem.

 

This is what I did to my pulley bolt to get it off, after trying the heavy Lisle 19mm "Honda socket":
After cuting the flange, hit the edge with an air hammer/chisel

 

Really guys? You're using the wrong size then. If used correctly they bite down and it's go time. And come on, there's no "making it worse"... You're already in a situation where you're talking about putting rope in the cylinders lol.

 

I KNEW I must have done something wrong- trying to use a 19mm Irwin extractor on a19mm stripped bolt head- especially after two shops (one a Toyota dealer) told me that it wouldn’t work. Cutting the flange off did free my bolt, and worked for readers on Yotatech and Pirate 4 x4

 

Got it just needed someone heavy to stand on the block to weight it down lol, after a user said to use a wood block to hold the crank I just used a pry bar this worked perfectly. Pistions were out at the time of the post so I couldn't use a rope. Breaker bar and a cheater bar was what I used . Ended up just hammering on the 19mm 6 point and it wasn't rounded enough to slip.

 

I've done the same thing but at a salvage yard gotta do what you gotta do.

 

Old mechanic here. We would take a cutoff wheel tool and grind the flats down to say 17mm, heat the bolt until the head was glowing, let it cool for a minute, this is to soften the red Locktite holding the threads, then hit it with the impact. repeat as necessary. PS if your other car is a Honda/Acura V6 this is the ONLY way you are going to get the bolt out. You won't damage the harmonic, you are going to replace the crank seal anyway. And DO use red Locktite on the outside of the seal and do grease the inside.

 

Big sharp hammer blow to a bolt head unloads the threads for an instant as the head also expands outward momentarily.

All metal is elastic, and these flexing movements allow metal bonds (of the threads and head seating surface) to crack loose, allowing the bolt to break loose at a much lower torque.

 

I’ve resorted to completely removing the head of a bolt. Once with a 4” angle grinder - fast. Another time with a Dremel with a cutoff wheel - slow as heck, but 15 minutes of work beats not getting it at all. Another time with a Dremel and a carbide ball-ended cutter. Faster than a cutoff wheel, but not by much. All messy.

 

For 95% of fastener issues, all you need is heat. Oxy/acetylene heat, not a wimpy heat source.

 

Or a Miniductor, or AliExpress equivalent. ( 3 guesses where it's made, I took a chance on the $150 clone, turns out it's the real thing) With a Litz kit on the side. Worth it's weight in gold. Heats the bolt without the stray heat of a flame. These bolts are Locktited in shock won't work. The plastic has to be softened. 40 years in the business.

 

Forgot to mention, when it comes to tightening, with Toy the impact gun works if you have a Torque Stick with the right rating. Or you need to to use a torque wrench, which doesn't have to be fancy. To hold the crank, again rope in the cylinder does the trick, this is generic, or there are make specific crank pulley holding tools. Or save your old serp belt. Purchase the chain Visegrips. Also worth their weight in gold. Cut the belt so it wraps around the pulley once fully. Attach the VG's where it will butt up against something. Belt keeps from damaging the grooves. PS the VG are da bomb for waterpump pulley bolts. Especially when they are Loctited in.