Maybe you can clean up the threads with a tap. I'd have a new drain plug ready to go.

 

If I understand the picture/situation correctly, the transmission drain plug is still in the pan, and it's just the hex hole that has rounded. The drain plug appears to be raised compared to the pan, so you could grab it from the outside edge.

I would consider using a large bolt extractor or aggressive pliers like knipex cobras to turn the plug carefully from the outside. The torque spec isn't too high for that plug, but you might need some leverage.

Of course, have a new drain plug on hand before attempting anything.

 

@zaza thank you. Yes, you are correct, it's just the hex hole that is rounded.
I'll take a look into those pliers, thank you.
I believe the torque spec on the drain plug is 32 ft-lbs 😫

 

@zaza thank you. Yes, you are correct, it's just the hex hole that is rounded.
I'll take a look into those pliers thank you.
I believe the torque spec on the drain plug is 32 ft-lbs 😫

Yes, that torque spec sounds about right. I expect knipex cobras to bite and not let go (it will mar the surface), but you may need a pipe/extension on the handle to overcome the torque.

Careful though, these pliers work so well that they can become addictive:

KNIPEX Tools - Cobra Water Pump Pliers (8701250), Red,10-Inch - Slip Joint Pliers - Amazon.com

KNIPEX Tools - Cobra Water Pump Pliers (8701250), Red,10-Inch - Slip Joint Pliers - Amazon.com

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Amazon.com

 

I might add, look into the plug dimensions and see if a oil drain plug might fit... I replaced the 6MM hex drain on my 15 corolla with the same part number for the engine oil drain... just be careful changing the engine oil lol.

 

I believe it is the same, not 100% sure though.
It may be an M12x1.25; length unknown.
Toyota part number: 90341-12034 (drain plug) + 90430-12008 (gasket).

 

It is also a problem on the hybrid:

Invertor coolant replacement with pics. - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

ES - 6th Gen (2013-2018) - Invertor coolant replacement with pics. - Hi again, This is done on 2013 let us es 300h. Invertor coolant replacement. Note: This procedure works on most hybrids too.

www.clublexus.com

 

Lots of options before replacing the pan!

If the pliers don't work you could tap a short 3/8 extension in the rounded out hole and make a couple tack welds to the plug assuming it's steel (it has rust on it).

Or cut a slot in to it with a die grinder and use a piece of angle iron or similar to engage the slot, then turn with a pipe wrench or pliers.

If the hole is deep enough you might even get an easy out to work.

 

Drill a few small holes across each other in the thicker part of the plug. Put 2 stainless steel bolts in these holes and use pliers or a large screw driver inserted between the screws to remove the plug.
Let transmission to cool down to reduce tension before removing the plug.

 

II have a solution, 2 parts.

Take a small hammer and "peen" down the damage. Then drive the correct hex into the hole and it might come loose.

If that does not work then try this. Take a sharp flat blade chisel and knock a notch on the outer rim of the fastener. Then use a flat blade punch and hammer to drive it counter clockwise until it starts to move and you are on the way to removal.

You could even use the "peened" hex recess to tighten THE SAME FASTENER and reuse it permanently.

Done it for decades almost 100% success. Also works on steering column locks with the break off bolt heads that leave nothing to grab to get them loose.

Also works on ancient firearms, not disassembled in a hundred years, but those are slotted heads.

 

The secret to "peening" is to not beat the crap out of it, just enough force to "move' the damaged metal "back' to where it originally was. The impact might even help it to break loose.
To understand this try banging your finger with the hammer then use the same force you can barely stand and hit the plug with that force, NOT ENOUGH TO BEND THE PAN ITSELF.

PS: my fingers have a high threshold of pain

 

Drill and tap, put in a bolt with a jam nut.

 

Did you get it out yet?

 

I haven't had a chance to work on it but I've been jotting down all the ideas that you fellas have been throwing out there.
Gonna order some stuff mentioned here and will update.
Much appreciated and thank you all.

 

One more idea. When trying to loosen damaged and frozen fasteners I have resorted to using a punch and a hammer. First creating a divot with the punch, then angling that same punch to exert force in a counterclockwise direction.
This accomplishes two things. First the hammering will help break any corrosion and such. Secondly it's always a win to get the offending object in the direction you want it to move.

 

If it was mine I would do the chisel and hammer counterclockwise method, FIRST. You may need no other parts. In you first picture there is a "nick" in the outer rim of the plug itself. As long as you have the room there is where I would place the chisel to hammer the plug loose. Any damage can be cleaned up with a file or light grinding. That kind of thing to me was an opportunity to do the job for free in less than a minute.
Customer for life, just keep treating them the way you would want if the tables were turned.
Busted Fingers posted about the same thing as i did. Impact is the solution.

 

Any damage can be cleaned up with a file or light grinding. That kind of thing to me was an opportunity to do the job for free in less than a minute.

Spoken like a true mechanic--an expert problem-solver in all things metal and machines.

 

pipe wrench!

 

I have successfully used a torx bit socket, driven it into the rounded hole with a hammer and it gripped enough to remove the stripped plug. I’d buy the same plug and a new washer from Toyota, since the fluid check “straw” threads in above the plug you don’t want to risk damaging it or not dealing with the wrong drain plug. Get the new plug and washer ahead of time so you’re ready to go when you get the stripped one out.

 

I have done the same thing. Got a new plug and used vise grips to remove the stripped one.

 

Maybe a good pair of vice-grips around the outside will do it.
Something similar happened to me once on a Subaru, the plug was so tight, I rounded the outside square head. I welded a cheap socket to it and I was able to get it off. Of course I needed a new plug.

 

Vise Grips with curved jaws

 

Don't tap, bang, chisel, drill, or anything else like that!
That plug will come right out, very easily, with either a pipe wrench or a large Vise-Grips on the outside of the exposed round flange. Whichever you have on-hand.

 

Shouldn't be that tight and should be using an Allen socket

Smh

 

That kind of damage usually occurs because of using something like an ill-fitting SAE allen key instead of the correct METRIC hex socket.
Another contributing factor to that kind of damage is often a missing crush washer, which causes you to need to crank it down really tight in order to stop it from leaking.

 

Hey guys, late update on this. I managed to break it free with an 8mm spline socket bit that I tapped in the stripped out hole with my brass hammer.
Prior I had tried a "damaged fastner remover hex bit" but it didn't work. Thanks to all who posted advice!

Damaged fastner remover hex bit:

 

Vise Grips The King of Tools. And find a regular hex head plug. Allen keys are the worst.

 

Not sure about the king, but the right tool for the job is awesome!

LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144) - Amazon.com

LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144) - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com