More info

Well now I've started noticing the "clicking" sound. I can make it go away by turning the light switch to the "running lights" position. The clicking happens whether the tail fuse is in or out, and the sputting high-beam indicator light also still happens from time to time as long as the light switch is in the off position.

Also, I am not quite sure, but I think the feature where the main headlights are turned on in reduced light is not functioning, although the DRL do seem to still function.

Still pleading for help from any knowledgable person:

1) How can I get to the panel with the TAIL relay?
2) Do you think this is the TAIL relay, or more likely an integration relay?
3) If so, which relay (and what are the chances for getting to it)?

 

More info

Well now I've started noticing the "clicking" sound. I can make it go away by turning the light switch to the "running lights" position. The clicking happens whether the tail fuse is in or out, and the sputting high-beam indicator light also still happens from time to time as long as the light switch is in the off position.

Also, I am not quite sure, but I think the feature where the main headlights are turned on in reduced light is not functioning, although the DRL do seem to still function.

Still pleading for help from any knowledgable person:

1) How can I get to the panel with the TAIL relay?
2) Do you think this is the TAIL relay, or more likely an integration relay?
3) If so, which relay (and what are the chances for getting to it)?

Did you ever fix the problem. My corolla has the same issue now

 

Sounds like you have a malfunctioning DRL. I would say disable it completely. This site tells you how with corresponding pictures. http://vamp.darkravers.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=107

 

Thanks! I'll certainly try this and post the results.

Disabling the DRL relay has got to be more fun than inserting and pulling the tail light fuse every time I drive at night.

 

Good luck. I hope it solves the problem.

 

Update

I disabled the DRL relay by disabling pin 23. I now have no DRL, but I still have the problem with the parking lights.

To add insult to injury, when I pull the fuse to turn off the parking lights, it totally disables the "lights are on, you dummy" bell when you open the driver's side door. So, when I pulled the fuse Friday morning, I forgot to turn the main heads off. By 3:00 PM, the lights had killed my battery.

 

JefferMC,

I just stumbled upon this issue yesterday with my 2001 prizm and found that if I flick the high beam front to back, it will turn off my running lights. Obviously this is a temporary solution! That may save the battery for you until we get around to finding the source.

Unfortunately in my case, I smelled wires burning moments after the issue arose. DRL = Daylight Running Lights, correct?

-Randy

 

Well... The "brights trick" doesn't work anymore, so I not only clipped wire #23 like in the vamp.darkravers.net link, but I unplugged the RunningLight relay box completely. At least my "lights on warning buzzer" stopped. We'll see how that holds up.

I inspected the circuit board in the RunningLight Relay and one of the resistors is burned out, which is the smell I experienced when the whole thing started.

Dealer wants $225 for a new Running Light Relay, ack.

-Randy

 

willing to send me the old one after you find a replacement? I've wanted to do a project on one of these control boxes for a long time but never found one at a junkyard.

 

good luck fixing it!

 

Well, a good friend of mine helped me do some component identification. He pulled a schematic out of his brilliant head and we ended up fixing my DRL box. I re-inserted the box and the repair fixed all my problems! Pics for enjoyment:

(img hosting changed, here is a link to the album)

https://plus.google.com/photos/1130.../photos/113038174852592081818/albums/6161529957088649361?authkey=COyPmema4fyKEw

 

Well, a good friend of mine helped me do some component identification. He pulled a schematic out of his brilliant head and we ended up fixing my DRL box. I re-inserted the box and the repair fixed all my problems! Pics for enjoyment:

My 1999 Corolla has the same problem you had. DRL will not turn off. Pulled Relay Assy and sure enough...the same transistor and zener diode were blown. Would you mind sharing information as to what value transistor and zener you used?

Spencer

 

Very very nice. Congrats!

 

Enjoy.

I would love to share the information! There are some options shown below, but I went with the "1N5252B 24V/500mw Silicon Zener Diode" (got mine from ebay), and the "2N2222 NPN transistor" (from Radio Shack). Hope that helps.

(img hosting changed, here's a link to the album

https://plus.google.com/photos/1130.../photos/113038174852592081818/albums/6161529957088649361?authkey=COyPmema4fyKEw

 

Thanks Randy! I'm going to give it a try. Will let you know how it works out.

Did some more evaluation on problem before ordering new parts. Measured 1.5volts at Z8 (output conn).
Since T12 was already burnt...I broke its charred remains off...in effect took it out of circuit. I now measured 12 volts at Z8 and alarm and running lights are off.

When turn on headlights, measure 0 volts at Z8.

Headlights, High Beams, and all other lights and signals work fine. If Headlights are on, and remove key...alarm sounds(as expected).

This has disabled the automatic DRL circuit but you can manually turn on all lights as needed.
Cost: nothing. This is another option on ways to handle this problem.

 

Nice investigation. I love getting to the bottom of these projects and coming out with the knowledge and no cost!

-rand

 

that sucks .. how would the average joe know that a resistor was blown .. unless they did what randini did ..

 

For clarification, what is "that" ?

 

Just found this board a few weeks ago after I developed the problem of my running lights on my 2001 Prizm not turning off. I got a new DRL control box (from GM) which worked for about 10 seconds and then burned out. Anybody have any suggestions on what I should be looking for or what I should be doing next? Any way to easily bypass the control box and have regular lights that I can turn on/off by the headlight switch alone?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

It's hard to say if something is causing your DRL relay to "fry" or if you just happen to have two bad DRL relays. Have you inspected the circuit boards for damage? If so, is the problem consistent?


I spent some time trying to just get my basic lights to turn on without the relay, but now luck. I couldn't find a way to enable my basic headlights without the DRL relay installed, so I can't shed any light there. (Instructions on disabling DRLs using this link: http://vamp.darkravers.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=107)

Hope someone can add some information for you.

-Randy

 

I would pull the DRL control assy from under the glove box. The DRL alarm should stop and your lites should be off. It should be easy to carefully open up and get access to the circuit board inside the control box. Then compare your circuit board to the excellent photos that Randy has provided, to see if the same components have burned up. If so, you are dealing with the same issue.

 

Thanks to all who replied. Checking the two circuit boards both had TR 12 fried. My guess is that something downstream of the board caused the transistor to overload. Since my electronics knowledge is limited I guess that I'll need to go to either the Toyota or Chevi dealer. Any thoughts?

 

Since TR12 is already fried, you have nothing to lose by trying this...it worked on my Corolla...with the contol box disconnected and removed from car, carefully break off all charred remains of TR12. This will open the circuit.You can then plug it back into the car and give it a try. Good luck, let us know how it works out.

Spencer

 

Spencer,

I owe you. What you said about removing all of TR12 worked. As soon as I read your post I scoured that transistor off the board and put in the ckt.

Many thanks. I guess that I will now have to learn to turn on/off the lights by myself. I'll try to live up to it.

Hope that one day I can return the favor. If you are ever near Chattanooga, TN let me know.

Bill

 

would a rocker switch work for drl to be able to use it as on/off whenever i want?

 

Yes. I've seen it done. Check out that VAMP article linked above, he uses a switch in his DRL tutorial.

 

I think i still have the orginal bulbs in the car..i might have had them replaced but if soo it was a lonnggg time ago

 

Although this tread is over year old, I just found this site through google
I did have the same problem, my DRL relay assembly was burn too couple days ago. My parking light never shutoff while the key was out. It was cause by something else that make the DRL burn. and those DRL is not cheap, I call couple of dealer and they run about 250 each. It was cause by a grounding issues at the C203 connection, it wasn't providing ground to pin 1 and 12 of the DRL relay assembly. so basically voltage was going into the DRL with no grounding and burn the 2 pieces, Diode and NPN transistor. I just follow the picture and schematic by radini667. I order the diode from ebay and the NPN from radioshack. When you buy the package from RS, just be careful, the package contain 3 set of 5 transistor, one is the NPN 2n2222 and the other 2 set are something else. I use a magnifier glass to read it. After soldering and putting back together the DRL, I plug in to the car, put the battery on and turn on the car, no daylight and the highbeam blinking so I knew something else is wrong.
I disconnect the battery again, and looking at the prizm service manual, electric wiring, try to test each ping from 1 to 25, most pin pass except pin 1 and 12, no ground. and by looking at the service manual, it goes to splice pack 261 and then to pin 2 on c203. c203 is located just below junction block 2, it is a orange connector. After I disconnect c203, I notice some corrosion on pin2, clean it out and plug it back. Then I re-test pin 1 and 12 of the DRL connector and got good ground. Ok, I start putting everything back together and finally re-connect the battery.

Turn on the car, no DRL, disengage/engage the brake, DRL working. Turn off the engine, everything turn off as it should be:lol:. If I didn't fix the ground problem and keep buying those DRL, it will keep burning them.

 

that bad ground is a common issue it seems, i've ran across one at the shop as well and read of many more here.

 

Read posts 22-27 again, it sounds very similar to your situation. Spencer basically removes all contact of burnt out components and is a happy camper.

 

Actually I didn't remove any component like they say between post 22-27, I do like the DRL so after I clean the ground, everything is back to normal. Everything is working 100% again like a brand new car.:lol: