wheel wells on camry's are kevlar-that's why they are soft/pliable. they are the same on the le and the se. this is a new for 2012 in the camry. firewall is also kevlar lined. keeps noise and weight down. as far as the steel bolt is concerned-that won't be the only one you find prone to rusting. welcome to owning any car when you live in the north.

 

>>> wheel wells on camry's are kevlar-that's why they are soft/pliable. they are the same on the le and the se. this is a new for 2012 in the camry. firewall is also kevlar lined. keeps noise and weight down.

I don't know boss. In the showroom two week ago they were parked side by side. They may do things different in Canada though... The SE's wheel well liner was a hard plastic or pvc or whatever but smooth and hard that would repel water. The LE's well is the soft easily bendable felt material that would surely absorb salt and let it dry on itself hard unless pressure washed off. whatever.

>> as far as the steel bolt is concerned-that won't be the only one you find prone to rusting. welcome to owning any car when you live in the north.

Reason i asked specifically is because the sym-tech warranty people I was discussing with say that these days they don't need to spray any rustproofing there because that area is better constructed than what older cars used to be. I don't buy that explanation so much however because i still consider any location on the car exposed where an iron bolt (not stainless) goes through into body metal is a highly rust prone area. I am wondering if anyone knows if that area's been improved over the last generation cars that should prevent corrosion without treatment … other than the 'better galvanizing' we are supposed to believe in.

 

easiest, cheapens and very very effective way to rust proof wheel wells, bolts, undercarriage etc. simply to apply coat of thick lubricant (like high temperature grease) on all surfaces you want to protect. medium size and small brash works perfect.
it will never rust. bolts easy to unscrew even after long time. it even stops existing rust for good.
some parts from which lubricant can be washed away might need reapplying time to time, but under well liner and even on the frame thick lubricant will stay forever.
I looked well liner on XLE, LE. SE- they all the same, felt like material.

 

I think it is best to remove the wheel well liner (on the outside of the vehicle not inside the trunk) and then do a two part application. The first coat should be a penetrating oil like WD-40, and the second a tar like material (Cdn Tire sells it). If you put the second coat on while the first coat is still wet that is not all that bad. The two coats mix. There are also Rust Check products which do the same. A penetrant and then finish coat.

And if you really want to do it right, you should reapply every three years or so.

 

^ nothing gonna stick to WD40.
not sure about other climates, but in TX WD40 evaporates completely after only one summer. thick grease stays much much longer. it stayed on my 2001 camry frame from 2002 all the way till 2009 when I traded it.

 

Really? I did my 1985 Camry this way new and sold it in 1998 with no visible rust. The biggest issue with "rustproofing" is that it does not get into the really tight spots. The WD-40 helps it do just that. Remember that the WD-40 mixes with the rustproof material. Also the second problem is that over time the stuff dries out. That is why you need to reapply.

I've used Ziebart and another I forgotten the name of, and collected on the warranty on both. And, you do not want to collect as all they will do is give you your money back.

 

I am the GTA and geez we've got some serious snow this year. needless to say the wheel lines is almost light gray from the salt. I'll wash it in spring and use a dry day and pressure wash at the local self wash to clean it out.

Which stuff at canadian tire. I like my wd40. smells nice (addict... hic)... but on top there's the green rust check that I think is very sticky but lasts only a year. Anything else?

btw the 'corrosion free' (formula 3000) spray at canadian tire seems to get very good reviews for penetration and longevity. might try that.

 

I used the WD-40 followed by the CTC Motomaster generic aerosol black tar stuff. I recall they have a plain and rubberized version. I've tried both, and have no particular opinion as to which is better. Both seem dry out after a few years. I then spray on more WD-40 to soften it up and spray on more tar.

If I was doing it again today, I think I would be tempted to try the two Rust Check products if they were not too expensive. Rust Inhibitor first and Coat & Protect second. That said I have limited personal experience with them. They do seem to have the right idea by using two products.