The new smog check customer assistance program allows a good opportunity to get rid of your unwanted car for $1000 by failing a smog check.:thanks:
This can be a good idea if :
· The car has a salvage title (you can retire such car only if it FAILS the smog according to the current CAP instruction) :headbang:
· The car is unpopular model (full size 2-door GMC B-body coupe) :disappoin
· It has very high mileage
· Its engine or transmission are ready to go soon (metal particles are incidentally found in drained oil or transmission fluid)
· It belongs to the family member who cannot drive any more due to the age /medical condition
· It is 25 year old or older import that is difficult to sell due to its age and limited availability of QUALITY repairs parts (you will not be able to get serious buyers for this vehicle in most cases, even if you are asking low price for it. In addition such buyers may not have license to drive or may try to commit a fraud during the transaction) :jail:
Here are the tips how to make your car legally failed the smog test and get qualified for sell to the state program
VISUAL:
· The car should be in a good condition :violin
must look like average commuting car, not like a junk that have been standing under heavy weather for 10 years)
· Few visible signs of previous criminal activity against the vehicle can be present (busted locks, scratches on glass and paint)
· Engine compartment must not show signs of recent repairs
· The emission equipment must be present and OEM (does not have to be functional) For example, an old factory EGR valve from the junk yard stuffed with carbon will fit that purpose; same regarding other components.
· Have a good gas tank cap (perhaps old OEM with new gasket -- the gaskets are interchangeable)
· Stock exhaust system without big leaks, stock intake and stock sparkplugs (can be worn or improperly gapped)
Remember: you are responsible for all smog control equipment to be present on the car to be qualified, but you cannot be blamed if they are stopped working because of their age.
FUNCTIONAL:
The car can legally fail the smog for non-functional equipment however:
1. The gas cap must pass the test
2. The timing should be dead on
3. The check engine light should be working (you may wire the bulb to the charge light in some cases) OBD-1
For best results the car supposed to have multiple failures:
· Small amount of visible smoke during start up or acceleration after idle :fart:
· SLIGHTLY elevated hydrocarbons 10% above limit (very costly to diagnose) :wtf:
· Low pressure vapor testing failure (requires labor intensive fuel storage component removal)
· The situation when the car fails for high NOx despite working EGR system and solid factory set timing is a real jewel (cleaning the hard carbon from the valves and pistons is at least 10 hour job per book plus parts)
· Old low weight oil helps to fail for HC and CO
· In extreme case, the bb plugged vacuum line or superglue injected VCV or BVCV can help to fail emissions too and if owner changes the mind can be reversed at relatively low cost.
Brief summary.
· “I want to fail” modifications must be reversible (in case the state program is on hold); do not mess up with expensive components!
· Such methods work the best for mid to late 80s cars that are using ECU controls for fuel injection system and vacuum control for emission components (Toyota, for example)
· “Nearly passing” failures are much harder to diagnose than some gross polluting failures
This can be a good idea if :
· The car has a salvage title (you can retire such car only if it FAILS the smog according to the current CAP instruction) :headbang:
· The car is unpopular model (full size 2-door GMC B-body coupe) :disappoin
· It has very high mileage
· Its engine or transmission are ready to go soon (metal particles are incidentally found in drained oil or transmission fluid)
· It belongs to the family member who cannot drive any more due to the age /medical condition
· It is 25 year old or older import that is difficult to sell due to its age and limited availability of QUALITY repairs parts (you will not be able to get serious buyers for this vehicle in most cases, even if you are asking low price for it. In addition such buyers may not have license to drive or may try to commit a fraud during the transaction) :jail:
Here are the tips how to make your car legally failed the smog test and get qualified for sell to the state program
VISUAL:
· The car should be in a good condition :violin
must look like average commuting car, not like a junk that have been standing under heavy weather for 10 years)· Few visible signs of previous criminal activity against the vehicle can be present (busted locks, scratches on glass and paint)
· Engine compartment must not show signs of recent repairs
· The emission equipment must be present and OEM (does not have to be functional) For example, an old factory EGR valve from the junk yard stuffed with carbon will fit that purpose; same regarding other components.
· Have a good gas tank cap (perhaps old OEM with new gasket -- the gaskets are interchangeable)
· Stock exhaust system without big leaks, stock intake and stock sparkplugs (can be worn or improperly gapped)
Remember: you are responsible for all smog control equipment to be present on the car to be qualified, but you cannot be blamed if they are stopped working because of their age.
FUNCTIONAL:
The car can legally fail the smog for non-functional equipment however:
1. The gas cap must pass the test
2. The timing should be dead on
3. The check engine light should be working (you may wire the bulb to the charge light in some cases) OBD-1
For best results the car supposed to have multiple failures:
· Small amount of visible smoke during start up or acceleration after idle :fart:
· SLIGHTLY elevated hydrocarbons 10% above limit (very costly to diagnose) :wtf:
· Low pressure vapor testing failure (requires labor intensive fuel storage component removal)
· The situation when the car fails for high NOx despite working EGR system and solid factory set timing is a real jewel (cleaning the hard carbon from the valves and pistons is at least 10 hour job per book plus parts)
· Old low weight oil helps to fail for HC and CO
· In extreme case, the bb plugged vacuum line or superglue injected VCV or BVCV can help to fail emissions too and if owner changes the mind can be reversed at relatively low cost.
Brief summary.
· “I want to fail” modifications must be reversible (in case the state program is on hold); do not mess up with expensive components!
· Such methods work the best for mid to late 80s cars that are using ECU controls for fuel injection system and vacuum control for emission components (Toyota, for example)
· “Nearly passing” failures are much harder to diagnose than some gross polluting failures
