are the RPM's dipping extremely low when the shakiness occurs?

 

My 2009 Corolla CE rpm drops when coming to a stop. It slows to 500ish rpm, shakes a bit, then recovers to low 600rpm range.

Note: This only happens when the car is fully warmed up (i.e. after 20 minutes of driving)

 

Mine would shake when I was breaking.. got my rotors resurfaced and it went away.. Not to sure what your problem is...

 

do you feel it in the brake pedal or just your body?

 

I just feel the vibrations in the steering wheel (not the brake pedal)

 

I don't notice it but I also have a 5M which is not as hard on the brakes as an auto.

 

Is there a fix to this problem? My 09 corolla also shudders occasionally when coming to a stop

 

Mine does too, i just started noticing it...pulled into a g station and as i was coming to a stop, it almost felt like a stutter...when its in N, it idles great, in D, drives fine...only when I'm coming to stop...

 

Usually, if the steering wheel shakes, it is the front rotors. If the pedal shakes or you can feel it in the seat of your pants, then it is the drums.

I've driven 3 Corollas, including my own, that had rear drums warped. The dealer replaced mine 2 times. After they get a little warm, they warp, which might be what you are feeling after you ride the brake for a few seconds (getting off on an exit ramp really did it for me). My buddy didn't even know what it was until I told him.

You could do this, but you have to be careful. When driving down the road, LIGHTLY apply the e-brake FOR A FEW SECONDS! You will feel it. Do not yank the e-brake or you might lock up the rear brakes. 3-5 seconds is all you need.

 

I've never had this issue but with a 5-speed manual I use my brakes a lot less & slow down by down shifting. :thumbsup:

 

Good for you! Now let the rest of us try to figure out a solution.

 

It's definitely not a brake pad/rotor issue. It happens when I'm at a dead stop. Usually, I will feel the shaking right before I stop. I'm not sure, but I think the rpm is dipping down below "normal" idle and causing the shaking.

 

Interesting.

 

Car has less than 40K on it. I noticed today the RPMs dip to below around 600rpm and causes the shaking to happen when I'm slowing down. I noticed some other people have posted on this issue, but I don't know if anyone has resolved it.

 

It seems that there are two kinds of vibration:
a) vibration due to faulty brake mechanism and
b) vibration due to engine rpm below normal value (say 650 rpm).

(a) is common to both MT and AT. AT cars require a harder brake effort because there is less engine braking effect.

(b) is common specially to AT.
For case of AT. Before warming up, the ECU will set to idle engine rpm to over 1000 rpm, there is no chance for the engine to drop below 650 rpm and cause the engine vibration.
After warning up, the ECU will set idle engine speed at about 650 rpm. There should be no engine vibration if the gear in Neutral. But if it is in gear, the engine will tend to run slightly lower.
But the engine rpm will be much lower under the following conditions:
1) When the car is braking, the ECU will cut off the fuel if the engine rpm is above 1000 rpm.
2) When the car is nearly stopped, the ECU will tend to supply back the fuel to maintain the normal idle rpm (650 rpm). But the initial fuel supply may not be enough and the engine rpm falls lower than 650 rpm. If so, the engine vibration would occur until the ECU responses to supply a little bit more fuel to raise the rpm back to normal.
At nearly stopping, the engine is practically de-coupled to the wheels. However, the AT at stopping in D will still give a slight load to the engine.
For MT at stopping, there is practically no load to the engine if the clutch is de-pressed and engine vibration is rarely occurred.

I notice that the ECU will raise the idle rpm to 750-900 rpm for any of the followings:
a) the parking lights are ON;
b) the headlights are ON;
c) the air-con compressor is ON due to de-miser and cooling.

Do you notice these?

 

I'm curious how you came to the conclusion that this is an ECU/fuel supply issue. The reasoning seems to make sense. Is there a fix?

You're right about the rpm's rising when the headlights/parking lights are on. I also noticed the rpm's stay high when the car isn't warmed up yet.

On another note, I've also noticed on occassion the rpm's drop below 600rpm and the car vibrates when I'm in Drive and completely stopped (foot on brake) and I do one of the following:

1) Turn the steering wheel
2) Pull up on the power window switch when the windows are already up

It seems like the additional electrical load is causing the alternator to load the engine and bump down the rpms. I'm not sure if this issue is related to the vibration while braking issue.

It seems that there are two kinds of vibration:
a) vibration due to faulty brake mechanism and
b) vibration due to engine rpm below normal value (say 650 rpm).

(a) is common to both MT and AT. AT cars require a harder brake effort because there is less engine braking effect.

(b) is common specially to AT.
For case of AT. Before warming up, the ECU will set to idle engine rpm to over 1000 rpm, there is no chance for the engine to drop below 650 rpm and cause the engine vibration.
After warning up, the ECU will set idle engine speed at about 650 rpm. There should be no engine vibration if the gear in Neutral. But if it is in gear, the engine will tend to run slightly lower.
But the engine rpm will be much lower under the following conditions:
1) When the car is braking, the ECU will cut off the fuel if the engine rpm is above 1000 rpm.
2) When the car is nearly stopped, the ECU will tend to supply back the fuel to maintain the normal idle rpm (650 rpm). But the initial fuel supply may not be enough and the engine rpm falls lower than 650 rpm. If so, the engine vibration would occur until the ECU responses to supply a little bit more fuel to raise the rpm back to normal.
At nearly stopping, the engine is practically de-coupled to the wheels. However, the AT at stopping in D will still give a slight load to the engine.
For MT at stopping, there is practically no load to the engine if the clutch is de-pressed and engine vibration is rarely occurred.

I notice that the ECU will raise the idle rpm to 750-900 rpm for any of the followings:
a) the parking lights are ON;
b) the headlights are ON;
c) the air-con compressor is ON due to de-miser and cooling.

Do you notice these?

 

Thanks! I have an 2011 LE, does the same thing. Do not notice it around town, only when I get off the highway and after I come to a stop at the end of the exit. I feel it mainly through the steering wheel, occasionally in the seat. Comes and goes, I did not make the connection between engine warmed up and lower rpms due to electrical load, or the fact that the rpms increase when headlights or A/C are on, which masks the issue. Will keep an eye on it. Right now, it is more of an idiosyncrasy than a problem.

 

If I had to guess, you are feeling the rear brakes shaking, not the engine. Pretty common problem. Make sure the e-brake is adjusted correctly for starters. Back it off, adjust the rear brakes correctly, then adjust the ebrake again. Next, bleed both rear brakes. Pay careful attention for air bubbles.

The easiest way to check if it is the brakes is to drive down a highway and LIGHTLY apply the e-brake for a few seconds with your thumb on the ebrake release button. It takes about 3-5 seconds and you will feel the vibration.

If adjusting and bleeding do not work, the drums are junk. I have 3 pair of drums sitting here from Toyota. Mine kept doing it when exiting an off ramp from a highway. Aftermarket drums fixed my buddies car, I just went with disk brakes.

 

really good info in this thread. Thanks.

 

my 2010 corolla with 252K KMs on does that, any way to fix it? thanks

 

With that many miles make sure that you clean the MAF, throttle body and check the intake manifold. I installed an oil catch can so that it would keep the intake manifold clean. The spark plugs were also changed several years ago from the Denso SC20HR11 to a hotter SC16HR11 to help with idle issues. Most dealers don't carry the SC20HR11 anymore as that's what I like running since I turbocharged my 2009 Corolla S 5MT and prefer the colder plug.

 

If it goes away when driving, or with headlights on, etc... It seems to be normal at any mileage At 250k, you must be on the 2nd set of spark plugs, if not, get them changed

 

Start with normal tune up items, including cleaning the throttle body. A dirty throttle body is one of the biggest causes of an erratic idle on these engines. If the problem persists afterwards then do a compression check to rule out a bad head gasket.

 

Check motor mounts.