So anyone got anything on this? Could it be a loose vacume line? Fuel pump going out? Anyone? Anything?

 

You could need a major tune up. and fuel filter.

 

First off let the car warm up, second off it sounds like you need a basic tune up, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and plugs


again, let it warm up a minute or two.

 

First off let the car warm up, second off it sounds like you need a basic tune up, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and plugs


again, let it warm up a minute or two.

im pretty sure the 1mz does not have a cap and rotor but replacing the plugs and fuel filter isnt a bad idea. its cheap and it may solve the problem.

 

correct, the 1mz does not have the cap and rotor, it's all distributerles. I do plan to flush the oil and transmission fluid here next week, and may be doing the spark plugs on or around the 15th. Yea it just kinda confuses me cause it only happens when I first start up the car in teh morning. When it has happend it doesn't matter when I let off the gas. I normally start up, then reverse, then drive up hill in a matter of seconds. But all i have to do is let off the gas and it works fine. So long as I hold the pedal down ,I don't get any power going uphill. The rest of the day I dont' have the problem, even after it's been sitting in the parking lot for hours.

 

lol, sorry bout that i was half asleep, try new plugs then

 

had a similar problem with my 3vz-fe, only when the engine was cold i found it would do it, and it wouldnt last long at all. Ther were numerous reasons that could lead to it...i think. now if only i could remember how i fixed it :whatthe: . Plugs should NOT be one of the reasons, it wouldnt make any sense if it were. its gonna bother me i cant remember, but ill let u know when i do...if i do. One possiblity is small leaks from gaskets = lack of compression before it begins to warm and expand sealing the minor leaks. that wasnt EXACTLY the entire solution though. i think i also made some minor timing adjustments but since ur distributorless it makes that pretty hard to do.

ifi remember ill let ya know :thumbsup:

 

Sure I'd appreciate any info you got. Going to tool around with it this week after payday since I need to change the oil and replace the brakes anyways. Going to see what I can come up with .As yet it's still only done it those 3 times, so I can't find a comonality. But sure, i'll keep watching for an email!

 

Humor me. Does the car release....any noise when it starts to go? I have found if the rear brakes are contaminated from brake fluid then they will stick to the drums....causing the brakes to drag...then making you feel like you have a drivability issue..... is yours 4 wheel disc? Or drums in the rear. If drums take the drums off and check for contaminated rear brake shoes from a leaking wheel cylinder. This happens all the time. Just a thought good luck.

 

negative..it's 4 disk all round. No brakes are only used when I put the car in reverse gear to back out of the driveway, then stop, then in gear to go forward. As I start to push on the gas there is just no go. Almost like i'm in neutral, but it goes none the less. I can push down on the pedal more and I may make it to like 5-10 MPH. At no time does the RPMS ever shootup like it's not in gear or straining. It just feels like i'm barely pushing the gas down. But all I have to do is just let of the gas and then push the gas back down and we go like nothing had ever happend. No bumps, no slipping gears, no noise. Again, in the 3 weeks that I've owned this 1MZ, it's only happend 3 times. But those 3 times are enough to make sure I check it out before it get's worse.

 

COLD weather REALLY plays a role, which is wut lead me to investigate the possiblity of a gasket leak in important compression areas,,,ie head gaskets etc

 

:lol: Cold weather! Hahaha...I live in San Antonio Texas! Nightly temps here are like 78 degrees. When I'm leaving for work at 6am, it's a friggid temp of 84! I'm looking forward to it cooling off next week to a high of 95 instead of this weeks 103. Thanks for the tip anyways though!

 

Is the oil level and oil pressure sensor OK? that was the cause in my old minivan.

if there was insufficient pressure, the engine was in limp mode.

 

Have you read or had read the computer trouble codes? Does anything show up there?

If there are no codes present I would change the plugs and plug wires, as suggested previously. If that doesn't cure the problem I would then check the coolant temp sensor. Toyota calls this the ECT. It could be telling the computer that the engine is always warm, never making the engine richer for cold (not to full operating temperature) running. That could be why it runs normally when you reach actual operating temperature. You can use the generation 4 manual at the top of this forum for the proper specs. You will need a DVM to do this simple test.

Mike

 

IIRC before it's warmed up, the car will shift the 1MZ before it opens the ACIS valve.
Possibly related..

 

^^ACIS only opens around 4K RPM(?)and above, the levels he experiences the lag at dont yet reach that

 

:lol: Cold weather! Hahaha...I live in San Antonio Texas! Nightly temps here are like 78 degrees. When I'm leaving for work at 6am, it's a friggid temp of 84! I'm looking forward to it cooling off next week to a high of 95 instead of this weeks 103. Thanks for the tip anyways though!

well if it EVER, gets cold ther at nites or sumthing (idont really know) expect it only to get worse at first

 

I'll be taking a look at the plugs later this week, trying to get some other stuff together right now, and I may be heading to Biloxi to help with some cleanup and rescue efforts. That was my last base, so looking at the video's right now just amazes me because I've grown up along the gulf, and to see the footage....I can still make out what's left of everything, including my old home in one photo. Had some friends send me images from Keesler AFB there...all underwater. But yea, back to the car...There are no plug wires..so nothing to change there. Really not sure about the engine temp either. I'd like to think if we had a problem there it would repeat more often, but as yet I haven't seen it do it since last week. Oil levels are good, but still needs to be changed *tomorrow* and if we actually see cold weather here this year, I'll keep an eye out for any changes to the system then. I haven't run any codes on the car yet. Don't have a reader myself, and I haven't gotten a check engine light or anything else as of yet. It may just be some freak bug in the system that will work itself out, but for now I don't know. Still just going to play with it some more and see if it happens again. Maybe I can test it some more when it happens again. Otherwise if you don't hear anything back from me on this over the next few weeks I may not be checking back as often. Hoping my command will allow me to depart for Gulfport/Biloxi to help out if I can.

 

^for that problem u will never see an engine light, it happnd to me for more than 30000 miles...the more i think about it i realize when summer came around it didnt really do it as much anymore so i forgot about it, after that summer i went to college, and had my engine completely done over from top to bottom. Since my new, better, MUCH more powerful engine has been here i havnt noticed any lag except from my check engine light and the pain in the ass knock sensor problem i have.

Other possiblities to look into, when ur engine first starts up, the ecu isnt in open(?) loop right away and doesnt take info from all sensors to adjust any settings properly until engine is slighlty warmer (except for 02's and knock, they need to be full operating temps). this leads to timing not so perfect for the cold engine...

sol. for that would be to check the last time u had ur timing belt checked/replaced. u can retime the belt it fairly simple in about 45 minutes, or atempt using ur distributor, however if something somehow happnd withthe timing on the cams, that will not help much

i still think a major cause could be linked to certain gaskets that i mentioned b4, it definately is possible due to its age and the linear expansion properties of the metals

 

Troyfreeze,

It's really not the engine temperature, but rather the temperature reading the engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) is sending to the computer. The temperature you see on the gage is controled by another sensor.

If your car is an early OBD2 equiped car, Autozone will read the codes for free. If it is an OBD1 car, you can read the codes with just a wire or a paperclip. Read the generation 3 skinny at the top of this forum for instructions.

I know personally about the Summer heat in San Antonio. Many years ago (more years than I want to count) I spent a June, July and August at Ft. Sam Houston.

Good luck.

Mike

 

So umm....interesting news...Still haven't had a repeat of the 3 times the car acted funny, so that's good. Going to change the oil tomorrow and through on some new ceramic pads for the disk. But all this talk about cold weather and me saying "I live in San Antonio, I don't get cold weather" just took a turn today. Sitting in the office this morning talking with my buddies that one of our coworkers is in Iraq right now just got orders for Korea. Well, while we are all talking about her going to Korea I get an email....I've got orders for Elmendorf Alaska! This time next year I'll be chilling in about 54 degree weather! So yea...Cold weather for the car is coming soon. So on that note anyone here want to give me some info on preparing the car for a cold weather climate. Read before about having a car heater installed to warm the engine block or something. Figured I'd try here before I start a new thread.