There is no room in the sail panel. Its a tiny cover with no depth or even surface area space.
You would need to find a spot on the door, which I think I tried with no luck finding one at the farthest and highest point...
And why I went with the largest 2way driver(4") in the dash that would fit without fabricating pods.

Yes, components are a chunk better, and 3 way is ideal(a 6x9 driver only, a 4" mid and a 1" tweeter).

I tried to do a 2 way component setup with tweeters on top... and it was most sounds playing at my shins.
This is why you want the most sound possible up on the dash or ear level. This is also why 6x9 components are not cheap, as they sound much better with the tweeter off of the bass driver. So get 6x9 that has a removable tweeter, and certainly not those with 3way within in the 6x9.

You can also get a DSP which helps A LOT in taking the stock head unit signal and cleaning it up and re=processing it. This would be better for a tuner to congigure. Without such a device and only a 3 ch EQ, you have no use for a tuner. There is hardly anything to tune. Making sure your speakers are in phase, and sound proofing them when installing would be important.

 

Thanks Phil! I guess that explains why I couldn't find any threads here or elsewhere with people installing 3-way components in a Highlander. So even a tweeter pod coming off of the sail panel or A pillar wouldn't give a BIG enough improvement over 2-way to justify it? It just seems like a shame to pay for a component set and then throw away the tweeter.



So if I'm going 2-way (speaker in the door and dash) up front, do you think that with an amp, or that with an under-seat powered sub would be the way to go? I assume that the 6x9" would give a little more bass than the 6.5" but if I was going to add a powered sub would there be any reason to go with the 6.5 over the 6x9"?



Has anyone added speakers to the 3rd row or are there even any threads where people have removed those panels to see how much room is behind them? Or maybe on the tailgate? When I search I'm not finding much on people installing speakers besides the 6 stock spots so maybe that means it's too difficult to do. I'm just surprised at the lack of sound for the rear two rows.

Thanks!

 

I didn't get a chance to read all, but the 2way is in the dash and the 3rd is on the door, you are going 3way..just not much room other than using a 2 in 1 on the dash. 6x9s do put out a good amount of bass, and deeper, which might be enough, and is the stock space for it. But need to make sure what you put has clearance to glass and such. A small sub under seat would be good doing 70 hz or lower, so it will round out the sound and give a more immersive listening. But 6.5 vs 6x9, with sub maybe fine. I like to optimize the weakest link in chain.

 

I think 6.5 with shallow subwoofer under seat is ok. You are right, clearance in door is an issue. Obviously one can get really powerful 6x9 but that also means big magnet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

There are the new neodymium magnets that are super small, but they may not have trickled into component 6x9 yet.

MB Quart had been using this decades ago when made in Germany, but now I would not recommend that brand. Maybe under the Maistro brand now they may have it?
Image Dynamics may have some. They have decent component 6x9 sets.

If you have not seen the Basic Stereo upgrade thread , as well as a couple others that have made their own box in the rear compartment, I recommend a look through those threads.
Also, a great site is the DIY Audio Stereo

 

There are the new neodymium magnets that are super small, but they may not have trickled into component 6x9 yet.



MB Quart had been using this decades ago when made in Germany, but now I would not recommend that brand. Maybe under the Maistro brand now they may have it?

Image Dynamics may have some. They have decent component 6x9 sets.



If you have not seen the Basic Stereo upgrade thread , as well as a couple others that have made their own box in the rear compartment, I recommend a look through those threads.

Also, a great site is the DIY Audio Stereo

I had MB Quart some 20 years ago. Not sure where are they today in all this.
Also, I not going to go crazy with money. $150 for 6x9 and some $100 for coaxial in the back, some $50-80 for 3.5 and $150-200 for amp as well as $200 for subwoofer. That is it.
I am getting HL for dad duties. Now I am planning to get BMW 335 or 235 with stick. That is where I might invest some serious money in music.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

You want to look for dB measures. This will help determine if the speaker needs and amp. I would say lower than 89 would be better with an amp.
Older Pioneers are low dB, and recently they have made more efficient speakers, so look at those ratings.
This should be the foundation of what you select. Other features do not override this....

if you get a 2 way 4", you dont need tweeter pods. A 2way in dash and the 6.5/6x9 in door is a 3way setup. It sounds great.
Keep in mind, just about anything will be some form of improvement. Yet getting things to sync and sound from one source may take effort. So I recommend using the same MFG for the different speakers, even if you are tweaking the frequency. Different materials in speakers will sound, different. This may not be noticed right away, but the more you listen and start enjoying the sounds, the more it maybe noticed. This is for anything 200Hz and up, as the bass will round out and fill the others without the dissection of the upper frequencies.

Focal makes some good gear. You might be able to find some good gear on PartsExpress as well. If you need the support and like Crutchfield, they are helpful, yet usually more costly, if you dont need the support.

I think I remember @edycol mentioning to get rid of the head unit. Once you swap that, you are in a truly different car.
But its still very restricted. Even with DSP, you cannot compare a system designed with 1volt source of limited frequencies (to not blow stock speakers), to a 4volt full range source.

 

Exactly, and always keep in mind, that someone else's "fantastic" will not equal your expectation of what is "fantastic"

You said you are not an "audiophile", and for whatever that means, if speakers alone get you some improvement and that is enough, then so be it.
I too have done a number of "systems" so I certainly have a different version on what I expect as acceptable.

I have changed the dash speakers 3 times, and now it is "fantastic"

Oddly enough, my passenger side door 6.5" is not firing! So I hope its just a amp wire! Otherwise it maybe the door cover coming off, and I hope its just a wire there...otherwise I would hate to find out it is a channel or speaker! :facepalm:

 

Red7
we have been through this process and I think your idea of quality sound gets more clarity as you start your enhancements to the system

I too started like you just from the speakers to start and ended up with a 4 channel and a monoblock amp (so may b 4.1 or 6.1 channel amp is a good amp to pick if u are planning to have a sub.

for me i tried some 3 subs and ended up with a musical JL w6 v3 d4 12" sub .. I am no a bass head (Phil knows that) but needed that buttery bass

As folks said here .. start a step by step process and things come and fall in place.

Also I have found that the folks in HL forum have done more upgrades than Honda Pilot folks.. there is a wealth of information here in this forum

Ram

 

Thanks everyone! How are you guys hooking up amps to the stock HU? I know Tacotunes provides harnasses that work with their amp: https://tacotunes.com/shop/toyota-h...rocessors/2007-2017-toyota-highlander-plug-play-replacement-amplifiers-non-jbl/ but not sure if that's as good of quality as the popular Alpine nor do I know if TT's harnasses work with any amp. I'm cool with just doing speakers first to see how I like them but that is choosing speakers like the Infinity Reference that seem to do fine with just the stock HU and not considering possibly better speaker options if I was going with an amp from the beginning. That said, I'm sure the Infinitys would sound all that much better with an amp so that's probably a safe way to go.


Another question I have after rereading the entire 17 pages of the January non-jbl thread, is some guys chose these speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R9630CX/Infinity-Reference-REF-9630cx.html?search=infinity+6x9# then left out the tweeter (which makes sense if using the Refernce 3.5" coaxial in the dash) but then also didn't mention anything about using the supplied crossover and instead talked about using a cap on the dash speaker and coil on the door speaker. I'm not questioning that as I don't even really understand what the purpose of the coil was but I'm just wondering why someone would buy a component 6x9 and then not use the supplied crossover. If all you're wanting is the 6x9 and don't plan to use the tweeter or crossover, you are paying double vs just using the 9632 coax one. I have read that the component will sound better than coax but it sounds like Dell used the coax version and was happy with it after making his own crossover. If I'm going to likely follow what the others did in that other thread then it's hard to justify paying twice the money for the component 6x9 and then discarding the tweeter and crossover when they are obviously charging a lot for those items. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

http://a.co/4a1u9jQ

http://a.co/gQtfwh7

http://a.co/jiMQMjL

http://a.co/5tOnB2y

http://a.co/2eh6XZO

http://a.co/aCDoZgb

I would also try and match up coner material to the dash cone material. Paper or treated papers sound nice and natural in my opinion.
Look for 4ohm and higher dB

 

wow these look awesome

CL-69SUBCF.2 - CDT Audio 6x9" Subwoofer PAIR - 2 Ohm Version

 

Most speaker ratings are 'marketing' material and shouldn't be used for comparisons. The manufacturing tolerance on speakers is pretty high and nothing to be impressed with so it all depends on the "ear". Impedance is reasonably important if sticking with stock headunit/amps and either not wanting to lose power or overload system. Efficiency and frequency response need to be independently measured which is beyond most DIY'ers.

If you're keeping the stock headunit, then the 1st mod I would install is an amplifier. More power helps even with the factory speakers and will be there when you finally decide on the speakers that you're going to use. Find a 4-5 channel amp with speaker level inputs and enjoy the power. Use 4 channels if you want don't want to lose space of a sub, or 5 channel if you want to install a single sub/box somewhere. For example:
https://www.sony.com/electronics/car-amplifiers/xm-gs4
http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/x801-5/

Besides Amazon and eBay, some online sources:
https://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx
https://www.cartoys.com/fit-guide
https://www.woofersetc.com
https://www.sonicelectronix.com

The 2nd mod I would do is soundproofing. Have the doors lined with some sound deadening material(butyl is what I recommend over asphalt). You can add some to the quarters, hatch area, firewalll .... but I'd wager that the door deadening would help the quality of the sound the most. Some will even undercoat their vehicles, wheel wells,.... for some more quietness. Youtube video is a little extreme but shows a car being quieted
https://ww w.youtube.com/watch?v=U60WWnDaBzU
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...forum/122-highlander-2nd-generation-2008-2013/427237-adding-sound-proofing.html
http://www.todayter.com/toyota/highlander.php

DSP's can tailor the sound for your ear. They also help much when switching to aftermarket stereo equipment. Toyota tweaks their headunit/speaker combo for the interior of the vehicle. Once you change the speakers, you might need to EQ them some:
http://metraonline.com/part/AX-DSP-TY2
http://metraonline.com/part/AX-DSP

Speaker adapters:
http://metraonline.com
https://www.scosche.com/car-audio/installation/speaker-adapters
http://www.aius.net
https://tacotunes.com/product-category/toyota-highlander/
http://car-speaker-adapters.com

Examples of custom made FJ adapters to put an 8" speaker in the door, along with TacomaWorld member Mr Marv who cuts Toyota adapters for any speaker size that you measure that can fit:
https://shop.wickedcas.com/fj-front-door-adapters-.html
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ill-on-as-of-08-01-2017-mr-marv-hybrid-audio-technologies-arc-audio-etc.499602/
Find a local shop with a carpenter that can build similar adapters like above for your specific door measurements and speaker.

Don't rule out Madisound, Solen, Part-Express, Meniscus.... for individual speaker purchases. Most fancy named boxed speakers are produced at the same Asian and SouthAmerican job houses. Much can be done with Dayton, Tangband, SB Acoustic..... that will sound better for the money.

For example... speaker selection for 4-channel install... build your own 12db crossovers:
Front doors: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs225-4-8-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-376 or https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/silver-flute-w20rc38-04-ohm-8-wool-cone/
Front dash: https://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-3fe25-3-professional-full-range-woofer-4-ohm--294-1103 or https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs100p-4-4-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-369
Front dash tweeter: https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...m/dayton-audio-amtpod-4-air-motion-transformer-automotive-tweeter-pair--275-195
Rear doors: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180p-4-7-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-375
Rear tweeter: https://www.parts-express.com/tang-...ess.com/tang-band-25-2176s-1-compact-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter-4-ohm--264-845

Adding a subwoofer simply means that you can use a easier to fit smaller 6.5-7" speaker in place of a front door 8" speaker.

I've always like CDT speakers. They offer some options that other manufacturers don't, like 2-ohm 6x9's, which could be used with the JBL amps without power loss from using normal 3-4ohm replacements. If using a sub, I don't see the need for 'oval' speakers. I think that my ear prefers the 6.5-8" door speaker options and I avoid oval speakers. 6x9 just gives a little more bass than a 6.5" but that is not needed when using a sub. There was a time when 7x10's were available and able to be fit in Toyota doors(along with sedan rear decks too). And, 8" coaxes are on the verge of extinction(even though more common in marine applications).

Pick a budget. Without a fixed budget, every mod can go excessive quickly. I've seen too many $1000+ fancy brand speakers ruined buy lack of power, poor installation, and inability to EQ. Shop smart.

 

Most speaker ratings are 'marketing' material and shouldn't be used for comparisons. The manufacturing tolerance on speakers is pretty high and nothing to be impressed with so it all depends on the "ear". Impedance is reasonably important if sticking with stock headunit/amps and either not wanting to lose power or overload system. Efficiency and frequency response need to be independently measured which is beyond most DIY'ers.

If you're keeping the stock headunit, then the 1st mod I would install is an amplifier. More power helps even with the factory speakers and will be there when you finally decide on the speakers that you're going to use. Find a 4-5 channel amp with speaker level inputs and enjoy the power. Use 4 channels if you want don't want to lose space of a sub, or 5 channel if you want to install a single sub/box somewhere. For example:
https://www.sony.com/electronics/car-amplifiers/xm-gs4
http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/x801-5/

Besides Amazon and eBay, some online sources:
https://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx
https://www.cartoys.com/fit-guide
https://www.woofersetc.com
https://www.sonicelectronix.com

The 2nd mod I would do is soundproofing. Have the doors lined with some sound deadening material(butyl is what I recommend over asphalt). You can add some to the quarters, hatch area, firewalll .... but I'd wager that the door deadening would help the quality of the sound the most. Some will even undercoat their vehicles, wheel wells,.... for some more quietness. Youtube video is a little extreme but shows a car being quieted
https://ww w.youtube.com/watch?v=U60WWnDaBzU
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...forum/122-highlander-2nd-generation-2008-2013/427237-adding-sound-proofing.html
http://www.todayter.com/toyota/highlander.php

DSP's can tailor the sound for your ear. They also help much when switching to aftermarket stereo equipment. Toyota tweaks their headunit/speaker combo for the interior of the vehicle. Once you change the speakers, you might need to EQ them some:
http://metraonline.com/part/AX-DSP-TY2
http://metraonline.com/part/AX-DSP

Speaker adapters:
http://metraonline.com
https://www.scosche.com/car-audio/installation/speaker-adapters
http://www.aius.net
https://tacotunes.com/product-category/toyota-highlander/
http://car-speaker-adapters.com

Examples of custom made FJ adapters to put an 8" speaker in the door, along with TacomaWorld member Mr Marv who cuts Toyota adapters for any speaker size that you measure that can fit:
https://shop.wickedcas.com/fj-front-door-adapters-.html
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ill-on-as-of-08-01-2017-mr-marv-hybrid-audio-technologies-arc-audio-etc.499602/
Find a local shop with a carpenter that can build similar adapters like above for your specific door measurements and speaker.

Don't rule out Madisound, Solen, Part-Express, Meniscus.... for individual speaker purchases. Most fancy named boxed speakers are produced at the same Asian and SouthAmerican job houses. Much can be done with Dayton, Tangband, SB Acoustic..... that will sound better for the money.

For example... speaker selection for 4-channel install... build your own 12db crossovers:
Front doors: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs225-4-8-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-376 or https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/silver-flute-w20rc38-04-ohm-8-wool-cone/
Front dash: https://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-3fe25-3-professional-full-range-woofer-4-ohm--294-1103 or https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs100p-4-4-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-369
Front dash tweeter: https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...m/dayton-audio-amtpod-4-air-motion-transformer-automotive-tweeter-pair--275-195
Rear doors: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180p-4-7-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-375
Rear tweeter: https://www.parts-express.com/tang-...ess.com/tang-band-25-2176s-1-compact-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter-4-ohm--264-845

Adding a subwoofer simply means that you can use a easier to fit smaller 6.5-7" speaker in place of a front door 8" speaker.

I've always like CDT speakers. They offer some options that other manufacturers don't, like 2-ohm 6x9's, which could be used with the JBL amps without power loss from using normal 3-4ohm replacements. If using a sub, I don't see the need for 'oval' speakers. I think that my ear prefers the 6.5-8" door speaker options and I avoid oval speakers. 6x9 just gives a little more bass than a 6.5" but that is not needed when using a sub. There was a time when 7x10's were available and able to be fit in Toyota doors(along with sedan rear decks too). And, 8" coaxes are on the verge of extinction(even though more common in marine applications).

Pick a budget. Without a fixed budget, every mod can go excessive quickly. I've seen too many $1000+ fancy brand speakers ruined buy lack of power, poor installation, and inability to EQ. Shop smart.

Great info, thanks!

 

Great sources linked here^^^^

 

here is one more

 

.Thanks for posts guys! Sorry it took me a bit to get to them but I just got back from vacation. I know a lot of people here are using Taco Tunes for harnesses but what about their amps? I called and talked to them and they were suggesting their plug and play setup with their harnesses and amps. Are their any advantages to using their amp with their harnesses or will any amps connect to their harnesses? I believe their amp is $135 and allows the stock head unit to push 70 watts to the speakers. I've read good reviews of other small (name brand) amps for about the same price so that may be the better route.

 

I had to change out one of my speaker wires that had gone corroded...the door 6.5" wires were caked with white powder. I changed them out for some higher quality and then used some elec grease on them to avoid this.

When doing your install. clean the contacts and coat them or seal them. I have used liquid tape, and it works rather well.

 

Yes! on #2
Doing the install in the least amount of fragments is best, and I recommend it. Zapco's are great amps from what I remember. That rear tray compartment get super hot with my 3 channel, so I would make sure you either vent it, use a D class amp for size and heat issues, or place amps under seats for better ambient temps. Or roll the dice in the back on a ~$1200 amp.

The main issue with the HL is the Head unit. IF you are looking for quality of sound, not just an improvement, you will need to get rid of the head unit.
I'd be picky with the dash speakers. Not many 2way that fit AND produce a good chunk of clean sound (I guess "chunk" will be the limiting factor, as plenty sound good, but at what volumes, is the question). Deadening helps, but if you are staying with stock head unit...you dont know what you're missing.

Audison is $$, and not sure if it has a auto tune. A JBL 8 dsp and maybe others auto tuning unit which gets you 95% or so there without tuning...IF you must keep the head unit and only going for improvement over stock.

 

These Zapco's aren't $1200... Actually I'm not sure of the price on the ST-6X DSP, but I have a ST-5XII in my truck and paid $279 for it, the ST-6X SQ is $399. I'm sure the DSP model is more, but I'd guess $600 - $700. AudioControl also makes an amp with integrated DSP (or DSP w/integrated amp?) that's suppose to be really good and it's around $600.

Heat could be an issue, I have mine installed behind the rear seat of my truck and it gets hot, but never had an issue... it's rock solid. Even though these are Zapco's "budget" amps, they made with high quality components, and can take a pounding. You can find pics online that show the inside of the ST series Zapco's and compares with with other similarly priced amps (it's night and day).

With a DSP, you are not using any of the sound processing from the HU (only the signaling), same way a HU uses FM signaling and then processes the sound. Therefore the HU would have little to no bearing on the sound quality once the signal is processed through the DSP.

A good DSP will make the crappiest stereo sound amazing.

 

You are still using that signal. Tried and tested and it isn't just volume, it the theoretical summing vs actual 3-4v output of FULL frequency range.
I used a good DSP, and after doing a comparison, its night and day, and I took out the DSP, since installing the aftermarket head unit.

One of the 6ch Zapco with DSP was ~1200 on Amazon, there were less expensive models. Least with DSP was about $500. Also depends on your climate.

 

If it's truly the case that a DSP will not cleanup the HU sound then I would just stick with the crappy factory sound rather than spend $$$ for crappy after market sound. I'm not willing to loose the integration between the Entune system and the vehicle.

That said, I've read threads from other Toyota owners (Camry, Tundra, etc...), that were very happy with their DSP/Entune systems, and others that used LOC's (Line Ouput Converters) like an AudioControl LC7i to add amps, and complained about noise (hiss).

Noise or "hiss" is a common problem when adding an amp to any factory HU; in fact it's common in many scenarios with audio components in general. I've always been able to eliminate (or nearly eliminate) this noise using a Ground Loop Isolator or Line Noise Filter. They're inexpensive, and they work, usually the noise is undetectable after installing a good filter.

 

The DSP is a chunk improvement....You get happy as the stock is so bad, It sounds pretty decent with DSP.... then a bit later, maybe listening to other sources, you realize this just isn't correct...Then you get a Aftermarket head unit just to do the test..and when you do, you realize it is NIGHT and DAY, and you toss the DSP. Use a good unit and it should have maybe 13 bad EQ with time delay and sub control, BT, NFC, HDMI, with Android Auto or carplay you get Google navigation and full integration with the phone, which I don't use often, as the BT is pretty good for calls and such. Also, the JBL system likely has a amp that gives more power, and this might help it another notch. Regardless the stock with DSP compared to a quality aftermarket head unit are drastically different. This is the case with most imports. Some domestics do have good output head units.... Many with horrible interfaces.