A few examples of some sound system setups that will sound good and not cost too much money. Although some people might say this is way too much money to spend on car audio, others would say it's the cheapest they'd spend. And this is supposing you are going to install everything yourself which I'd rec. because even though you might not be too experienced with doing so, it's a great learning experience and usually you'll do a better job than the installers at best buy or a local shop. If you do find a good installer thier services aren't cheap at all either.
Now all of these setups I'm going to talk about do not include rear speakers. If you feel the need for rear speakers then by all means get some decent coaxial speakers. The only time I would rec. rear speakers is if you want surround sound for a Video system, or if you are installing a system in a large SUV or Van like a Seqouia or Suburban or something, where the rear passengers would want some more sound. But in most cases the front components powered by a strong amp will be loud enough for the rear passengers too.
*The first setup is for the person who want's the least amount of equipment but the best SQ possible. And to utilize the stock headunit. Let's say with an overall budget of around 1,200 dollars.
Now if you want to use the stock headunit you are going to need to convert the speaker wires into an RCA output. To do this I rec. a line output convertor(LOC). The NE-774V from www.davidnavone.com is a very good LOC. It cost's around 40 bucks shipped. For more info on installing the LOC check out this thread http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t70831.html
In this setup you will be using the front channels of the LOC to send the signal for the front channels of the amp and the rear channels for the sub amp.
For an amp I'd rec. the DLS A5. It does 85 watts rms X 2 for the front speakers and 300 watts X 1 @4 ohms, 500 watts rms X 1 @ 2 ohms and 700 watts rms x 1 @ 1 ohm for the sub(s)
This amp sells for around 475.00 online. (retail is much higher)
For the front component speakers the Alpine SPX-177R are pretty good for the price 225.00 online. They are actually made by a company called Vifa.
For subs, one of the best SQ subs out there is from Image Dynamics. The IDQ is known as one of the best SQ subs out there. The new IDV.3 has a little better SPL than the IDQ while still retaining good SQ. So for this setup I rec. the ID12V.3D2. Running it at 4ohm will give it 300 watts rms from the sub output on the DLS A5. This sub sells for 160 @ cardomain. If you want to spend more then get two of them. That will send 250 watts rms to each one. Or get two dual 4 ohm ID12's and you'll be sending them 350 watts each. The subs and amp can handle it but if you get the dual 2 ohm subs it will be less strain on the amp and your electrical system.
This brings the total to around 950 with shipping.
A 4 gauge wiring kit sells for around 20 bucks and the RCA wires will add another 20 bucks. So figure 45 bucks all together with speaker wire.
I buy my wiring from www.knukonceptz.com they have a quality product with good prices.
If you feel like you can build your own box then you'll save yourself a good 50-75 bucks. If not then have someone build yourself a custom box. Try to stay away from prefabbed boxes like Q logic, it's better to have a custom box made to the exact specs. rec. for the subs. I have my boxes built by Marv, he is one of the best box builders out there, not the cheapest out there but one of the best. http://community-2.webtv.net/MarvsPlace/MarvsPlace/
With the remaining money you have left spend it on deadening mat. My fav on the market right now is eDead V1.se. It's the thickest stuff available (70 mils) and the best price for how thick it is. See this for more info http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t64909.html
If you want to use a better LOC there are a few other options available soon. The JL Clean Sweep and the Audiocontrol LC6 These are good if you want to go with an Active setup. Which I will talk more about later.
More setups to come...
Now all of these setups I'm going to talk about do not include rear speakers. If you feel the need for rear speakers then by all means get some decent coaxial speakers. The only time I would rec. rear speakers is if you want surround sound for a Video system, or if you are installing a system in a large SUV or Van like a Seqouia or Suburban or something, where the rear passengers would want some more sound. But in most cases the front components powered by a strong amp will be loud enough for the rear passengers too.
*The first setup is for the person who want's the least amount of equipment but the best SQ possible. And to utilize the stock headunit. Let's say with an overall budget of around 1,200 dollars.
Now if you want to use the stock headunit you are going to need to convert the speaker wires into an RCA output. To do this I rec. a line output convertor(LOC). The NE-774V from www.davidnavone.com is a very good LOC. It cost's around 40 bucks shipped. For more info on installing the LOC check out this thread http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t70831.html
In this setup you will be using the front channels of the LOC to send the signal for the front channels of the amp and the rear channels for the sub amp.
For an amp I'd rec. the DLS A5. It does 85 watts rms X 2 for the front speakers and 300 watts X 1 @4 ohms, 500 watts rms X 1 @ 2 ohms and 700 watts rms x 1 @ 1 ohm for the sub(s)
This amp sells for around 475.00 online. (retail is much higher)
For the front component speakers the Alpine SPX-177R are pretty good for the price 225.00 online. They are actually made by a company called Vifa.
For subs, one of the best SQ subs out there is from Image Dynamics. The IDQ is known as one of the best SQ subs out there. The new IDV.3 has a little better SPL than the IDQ while still retaining good SQ. So for this setup I rec. the ID12V.3D2. Running it at 4ohm will give it 300 watts rms from the sub output on the DLS A5. This sub sells for 160 @ cardomain. If you want to spend more then get two of them. That will send 250 watts rms to each one. Or get two dual 4 ohm ID12's and you'll be sending them 350 watts each. The subs and amp can handle it but if you get the dual 2 ohm subs it will be less strain on the amp and your electrical system.
This brings the total to around 950 with shipping.
A 4 gauge wiring kit sells for around 20 bucks and the RCA wires will add another 20 bucks. So figure 45 bucks all together with speaker wire.
I buy my wiring from www.knukonceptz.com they have a quality product with good prices.
If you feel like you can build your own box then you'll save yourself a good 50-75 bucks. If not then have someone build yourself a custom box. Try to stay away from prefabbed boxes like Q logic, it's better to have a custom box made to the exact specs. rec. for the subs. I have my boxes built by Marv, he is one of the best box builders out there, not the cheapest out there but one of the best. http://community-2.webtv.net/MarvsPlace/MarvsPlace/
With the remaining money you have left spend it on deadening mat. My fav on the market right now is eDead V1.se. It's the thickest stuff available (70 mils) and the best price for how thick it is. See this for more info http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t64909.html
If you want to use a better LOC there are a few other options available soon. The JL Clean Sweep and the Audiocontrol LC6 These are good if you want to go with an Active setup. Which I will talk more about later.
More setups to come...
