Maybe it could be your intake system, a leak somewhere? Just a guess.

 

That's about the worst sounding Camry I've ever heard... I hope you have open exhaust or something...

The symptoms you describe point to an ignition system problem. Check your timing, spark plugs, wires/cap, rotor and ignition coil.

The way it sounds makes me think the motor is blown... you might also want to check your coolant for oil, your oil for coolant and do a compression check.

Good luck finding the problem!

-Charlie

 

That's about the worst sounding Camry I've ever heard... I hope you have open exhaust or something...

The symptoms you describe point to an ignition system problem. Check your timing, spark plugs, wires/cap, rotor and ignition coil.

The way it sounds makes me think the motor is blown... you might also want to check your coolant for oil, your oil for coolant and do a compression check.

Good luck finding the problem!

-Charlie

i know! it sounds soooo bad.

it does have an exhaust leak on it. problem is...we've kinda already dumped hella money into it already.
160 for a egr valve is a lot considering the egr valve didnt fix the problem, lol.

 

If it's the 4 cylinder 3SFE engine, check the coil inside the distributor. They are a known problem on this engine. You will need a digital volt/ohmeter and a Chilton's or Hayne's manual for this, unless you can see a visual crack on it. You can get an aftermarket one for around $40-$50. No need to replace the whole distributor as a Toyota dealer would recommend.

Mike

 

If it's the 4 cylinder 3SFE engine, check the coil inside the distributor. They are a known problem on this engine. You will need a digital volt/ohmeter and a Chilton's or Hayne's manual for this, unless you can see a visual crack on it. You can get an aftermarket one for around $40-$50. No need to replace the whole distributor as a Toyota dealer would recommend.

Mike

alrite, we already have a spare distributor that we bought but never thought it woulkd be the distributor, maybe we should just replace it and see.

 

alrite, we already have a spare distributor that we bought but never thought it woulkd be the distributor, maybe we should just replace it and see.

As a general rule on old Toyotas - always check the ignition system first before replacing other parts.

-Charlie

 

wed3k,

Sorry, I didn't notice before that you didn't change out the plug wires, just the plugs. Before taking the distributor out of the car, take the distriibutor cap off (you will have to do that anyway to remove the distributor) and check the plug wires through the cap with a DVM for resistance. Check from the terminal inside the cap out to the other end of the wire (the end normally attached to the plug). A good rule of thumb is 7,000 OHMs per foot. Don't be surprised if you find 1 or 2 open circuits. The wires on this engine are noted for breaking down internally, leaving you with an open circuit. Under light throttle the spark can jump the open gap inside the wire and eventually reach the plugs to fire them. Under heavier excelleration a stronger spark is needed and the wires just can't handle the current, causing a missfire. Checking with the DVM before removing the whole distributor should take about 5 minutes. If you find any open wires, this is most likely your problem. The cap and wires on this engine must be replaced as a unit.

Good luck with the problem.

Mike

 

wed3k,

Sorry, I didn't notice before that you didn't change out the plug wires, just the plugs. Before taking the distributor out of the car, take the distriibutor cap off (you will have to do that anyway to remove the distributor) and check the plug wires through the cap with a DVM for resistance. Check from the terminal inside the cap out to the other end of the wire (the end normally attached to the plug). A good rule of thumb is 7,000 OHMs per foot. Don't be surprised if you find 1 or 2 open circuits. The wires on this engine are noted for breaking down internally, leaving you with an open circuit. Under light throttle the spark can jump the open gap inside the wire and eventually reach the plugs to fire them. Under heavier excelleration a stronger spark is needed and the wires just can't handle the current, causing a missfire. Checking with the DVM before removing the whole distributor should take about 5 minutes. If you find any open wires, this is most likely your problem. The cap and wires on this engine must be replaced as a unit.

Good luck with the problem.

Mike

that is making sense, my friend and i are going to replace the distributor and check the timing 2morrow. we might just repalce the wires as well.

OH! and i also remembered that there is an extra hole on that EGR valve. i didnt plug it up when i ran that video/sound file...today i got a bolt, plugged it up and now it sounds normal at idle...it doesnt want to die as bad but still stutters.

 

kind of curious what your sparkplug colors are. Pull 'em and look.
What kind of plugs did you put in?

 

HOLY JESUS!!!

replaced the distributor and wires and the thing actually runs!!! i can floor it down the street and it wont stutter at all.

i checked the timing first, it was normal (10), pulled the plug (Bosch Plantinum 4's) it was a black in color, no oil or grody shit on it though, then changed the distributor.

it was really easy, swapped it in and out...adjusted the timing and only took us like 2-3 hours. this was becuz i was talking to my friend and he was showing off with his sound system and whatnot...

but my dad told me that the wires DID fail in 2001, so the wires do break down internally. Anyways, thanks for the help guys!

 

Glad to hear you got it running.

Mike

 

LOL, I'm glad you listened to us.

-Charlie