[SuperchargedMR2]

😄😁

I totally forgot. It's hard to remember to do something the next day after work when you thought of it the night before. I do actually have a job and a life to deal with!! haha. I'll try to remember tomorrow.

 

[FishHawk1]

I can relate, I live in the real world too. Pics would be much appreciated. The filter relocate is something I’m trying to get done before the turbo install. The last few items for the entire install should be here by Monday. I want to have the oil filter relocate and cooler finished, and the exhaust, short of the muffler and v-band to DP prior to pulling the trigger on the turbo install. IC will also be pre-fit and ready to mount and plumb ahead of time, as well as the AFR/Boost gauge.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

Hey Jim, I’m hoping you can do me a big favor. I’m trying to figure out my location for the remote oil filter/thermo block. Currently there is enough room on passenger side against the firewall or pass side engine bay. I’m wondering how much of that room is left after the turbo install with inlet pipe.
Can you snap me a pic similar to close up attached? It would be much appreciated.
View attachment 313331
View attachment 313332

Well, I'm very sorry that this took so long but I finally remembered to take the pics you wanted. I hope they help.

 

[FishHawk1]

They do help a lot. Thank you! It just doesn’t look like there’s quite enough room in that corner for the oil filter conversion with the turbo inlet pipe. My next thought is the drivers side in front of the wheel well. Plenty of room once the intake air reservoir and stock intake plumbing is removed. I think I'll fit the mani, turbo, and piping just to make sure before I conclude.
I got started on the exhaust this weekend. For me, the most challenging part of the project. The Beni besides the personal satisfaction of doing it, is I have some new shop tools once complete, all inclusive about half the cost of a purchased system.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

They do help a lot. Thank you! It just doesn’t look like there’s quite enough room in that corner for the oil filter conversion with the turbo inlet pipe. My next thought is the drivers side in front of the wheel well. Plenty of room once the intake air reservoir and stock intake plumbing is removed. I think I'll fit the mani, turbo, and piping just to make sure before I conclude.
I got started on the exhaust this weekend. For me, the most challenging part of the project. The Beni besides the personal satisfaction of doing it, is I have some new shop tools once complete, all inclusive about half the cost of a purchased system.

Yep, I feel great that I did the install and I understand how everything fits together. I wish that I had enough room behind the left front headlamp but I'm thinking of the same area that you are. I relocated my battery to the trunk so I have plenty of room in that spot.

 

[FishHawk1]

Just watched your video on the iM cowl removal. I think I’m going to pull mine and see if want to go in from the top with the turbo and manifold.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

Just watched your video on the iM cowl removal. I think I’m going to pull mine and see if want to go in from the top with the turbo and manifold.

I'll be curious to see if that works. I did it from the underside.

 

[FishHawk1]

I’m glad I pulled the cowl, but the manifold mounted turbo ain’t goin through the top. I did find some more room possibly for the oil filter relocate after I pulled my K&N a typhoon out.
Before I started tearing it apart I went out and logged some 0-60 runs on Torque. I closely winged the vehicle profile, and logged relevant PIDs. Interestingly it was pretty close for calculating HP which showed 120. Best 0-60 was 9.6 seconds. Road was just damp so starts we’re pretty slow to prevent spinning but the best run felt as strong as any I’ve done... so far 😃

 

[FishHawk1]

Hey, are you still running with the FIC exposed in the factory battery location, like in the pic above? I’m guessing you haven’t had any issues?
I stuck mine to the ecu, but figured I would see if have encountered any problems with in the engine bay.

Getting closer. Need to finish exhaust, mount oil cooler and make lines, then fill, purge, and fire.

Here’s a mock-up of oil filter location.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

Hey, are you still running with the FIC exposed in the factory battery location, like in the pic above? I’m guessing you haven’t had any issues?
I stuck mine to the ecu, but figured I would see if have encountered any problems with in the engine bay.

View attachment 315353

Getting closer. Need to finish exhaust, mount oil cooler and make lines, then fill, purge, and fire.

Here’s a mock-up of oil filter location.
View attachment 315354

Yep, I still have it located where the battery was located. It's worked great there. I had it on the side of the battery before I moved it to the trunk. That looks great where you located the oil filter, I never thought of it there.

 

[FishHawk1]

Great, thank you! I will leave the aem there.
I thought about putting the filter down under the ecu, but then just started fitting it after pipes were installed, and that was the best fit with runs for hoses. Here is final install, short of some hose separators arriving Monday.

Adapter plate I made, replacing OE oil filter housing. 10an ptfe lines to new filter and cooler.
Coulda shoulda practiced welding more before building this 🧐. Had to join two pieces for the plate, hence the horizontal weld.

Oil’s in, system primed, and turbo feed purged, connected and turbo primed. The AEM is setup and ready to go. Still need to wire in the AFR/boost gauge and finish welding up and hanging the exhaust.
then she’ll be ready to bring to life.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

Great, thank you! I will leave the aem there.
I thought about putting the filter down under the ecu, but then just started fitting it after pipes were installed, and that was the best fit with runs for hoses. Here is final install, short of some hose separators arriving Monday.
View attachment 315532

Adapter plate I made, replacing OE oil filter housing. 10an ptfe lines to new filter and cooler.
Coulda shoulda practiced welding more before building this 🧐. Had to join two pieces for the plate, hence the horizontal weld.
View attachment 315533
View attachment 315538

Oil’s in, system primed, and turbo feed purged, connected and turbo primed. The AEM is setup and ready to go. Still need to wire in the AFR/boost gauge and finish welding up and hanging the exhaust.
then she’ll be ready to bring to life.

Great job and attention to detail! Looking forward to seeing your gauge setup and how you like the new found power!

 

[FishHawk1]

Hey I read where you had to change a coil. Which one was it? I have an intermittent misfire on cyl 3 for some reason.

 

[FishHawk1]

Actually the intermittent misfire is on any and all cylinders, but only upon startup, which takes far too long - then starts rough, and smooths out in a second or two and all is fine. Other than startup everything seems fine. The car runs smooth and strong.
I ran a compression check: 170-175psi all cyl, and a leak down test: >5% all cyl. Both test ran cold. I put in new plugs at .030 gap. First start was promising, but nada after that. Replaced the pcv valve, cleaned the intake and throttle body, and took extra care installing. (when I plumbed the catch can I was pretty quick pulling the intake back and replacing. Thought this might have something to do with it.) Still no difference. Inspected and sprayed the maf sensor. Again, no difference.
I haven’t done coils yet. I don’t see enough evidence to point to any one or two, and the engine runs fine once running for a second or two.
Prior to this I pulled the fuel rail and injectors again and inspected everything. I replaced the original injector head seals with the ones that came with the new injectors because a couple of the originals showed some age/heat checking. Verified dimensions and seal first. The orange prints are in great shape. Everything appears fine with the fueling. I haven’t checked fuel pressure yet. Don’t expect an issue since it runs fine once running. Another earlier test I did was power down and bypass the FIC. Starting issue was the same on Just the ecu.

I assume your car starts at the bump of the key? Mine did before the turbo. 🙁

 

[06YarisRS]

Hey, did you ever get a copy of the base map and tuning software for the FIC from TKC? I just bookmarked the link to fried rice.

Sorry Fishawk1 for the lengthy delay in replying. I haven't been on here in a while. I have a copy of the basemap on my computer. If you bought the kit, the basemap and software is already loaded on your FIC. Sorry, I haven't been following the thread. Let me know if there is anything I can help with.

 

[06YarisRS]

I replaced my plugs with new Denso plugs. I think that I had a set of fake plugs as they looked like crap after 6k miles. I also had the shop check my coils. The guy that tuned my Corolla Turbo had the tools to check them and found that coil #2 was weak so I replaced it with a new Denso coil. It never gave me a code but I was glad to find out it was weak before it caused me problems. I'm flying high in my 2009 Corolla S Turbo 5MT!!!

I put the plugs that I initially installed with the turbo kit back in. They were a new set of the stock Denso plugs. The one set colder plugs I put in were causing intermittent misfires under boost. It was basically blowing out the spark. I did notice a slightly wider gap on one of the plugs even though I have properly gapped them. Rather than risk a misfire again, I just reinstalled the original plugs. Haven't had an issue since.

 

[06YarisRS]

Actually the intermittent misfire is on any and all cylinders, but only upon startup, which takes far too long - then starts rough, and smooths out in a second or two and all is fine. Other than startup everything seems fine. The car runs smooth and strong.
I ran a compression check: 170-175psi all cyl, and a leak down test: >5% all cyl. Both test ran cold. I put in new plugs at .030 gap. First start was promising, but nada after that. Replaced the pcv valve, cleaned the intake and throttle body, and took extra care installing. (when I plumbed the catch can I was pretty quick pulling the intake back and replacing. Thought this might have something to do with it.) Still no difference. Inspected and sprayed the maf sensor. Again, no difference.
I haven’t done coils yet. I don’t see enough evidence to point to any one or two, and the engine runs fine once running for a second or two.
Prior to this I pulled the fuel rail and injectors again and inspected everything. I replaced the original injector head seals with the ones that came with the new injectors because a couple of the originals showed some age/heat checking. Verified dimensions and seal first. The orange prints are in great shape. Everything appears fine with the fueling. I haven’t checked fuel pressure yet. Don’t expect an issue since it runs fine once running. Another earlier test I did was power down and bypass the FIC. Starting issue was the same on Just the ecu.

I assume your car starts at the bump of the key? Mine did before the turbo. 🙁

My car starts on first turn when it's cold. After warm-up, it takes more turns to start if it sits for a while. If I leave the car off for 10 - 15 minutes after it's reached operating temp, it starts instantly. But once it starts to cool down, the issue appears. I've pulled fuel in the crank regions of the map to no avail. I think mine is flooding on warm start-up. I tried reinstalling the basemap that came with the kit. It doesn't change the warm start-up crank issue. I am going to try skewing the 02 map in the start-up region. Researching some standalone ECUs, I see that most have designated maps for different start up temps. Ambient temps really affect things and more fine tuning of fueling is needed. If Jim isn't having any temperature related start-up issues, we can see about getting a look at his map. Maybe his tuner did some tweaks in that region of the map. Some time back, he talked about getting a Windows 10 laptop hooked up. If he's still in to that, we can see if he will pull the map he has loaded and have a look. Regardless, I am still looking into some kind of standalone fuel management, whether that be complete standalone or using a standalone in conjunction with my stock ECU. My car works great once it's running, but IMO, the F/IC isn't a powerful enough tool to properly handle fuel management. I think to optimize fueling/power and safety, a better solution is needed. I'm not worried about detonation as my DIY water/methanol kit is providing a safety margin. I just feel that the F/IC is more of a 'band-aid' solution for engine management.

BTW, that is one nice piece of fabrication on your adapter for your oil cooler! Kudos! I have no plans of going with an oil cooler setup as I'm not seeing particularly high oil temps even under boost. The highest I've seen on a hot summer day and boosting is about 230F and since I'm running a synthetic, I'm not worried. If at some point I built my engine for more power, I would consider a cooler.

 

[FishHawk1]

My car starts on first turn when it's cold. After warm-up, it takes more turns to start if it sits for a while. If I leave the car off for 10 - 15 minutes after it's reached operating temp, it starts instantly. But once it starts to cool down, the issue appears. I've pulled fuel in the crank regions of the map to no avail. I think mine is flooding on warm start-up. I tried reinstalling the basemap that came with the kit. It doesn't change the warm start-up crank issue. I am going to try skewing the 02 map in the start-up region. Researching some standalone ECUs, I see that most have designated maps for different start up temps. Ambient temps really affect things and more fine tuning of fueling is needed. If Jim isn't having any temperature related start-up issues, we can see about getting a look at his map. Maybe his tuner did some tweaks in that region of the map. Some time back, he talked about getting a Windows 10 laptop hooked up. If he's still in to that, we can see if he will pull the map he has loaded and have a look. Regardless, I am still looking 2into some kind of standalone fuel management, whether that be complete standalone or using a standalone in conjunction with my stock ECU. My car works great once it's running, but IMO, the F/IC isn't a powerful enough tool to properly handle fuel management. I think to optimize fueling/power and safety, a better solution is needed. I'm not worried about detonation as my DIY water/methanol kit is providing a safety margin. I just feel that the F/IC is more of a 'band-aid' solution for engine management.

BTW, that is one nice piece of fabrication on your adapter for your oil cooler! Kudos! I have no plans of going with an oil cooler setup as I'm not seeing particularly high oil temps even under boost. The highest I've seen on a hot summer day and boosting is about 230F and since I'm running a synthetic, I'm not worried. If at some point I built my engine for more power, I would consider a cooler.

No worries on the absence. This is the most important time, and you provided the info I was looking for, someone with similar issues that has troubleshot some with mapping.
In theory, when I bypassed the Fic the problem should have gone away if it was tuning related. However, I didn’t spend much time with it bypassed except to start the car, so the ecu, probably didn’t have time to recalibrate.
I’m gonna go for a drive in a few and if the issue still persist, I might throw the stock injectors back in for starting tests. In my research, I came across a few threads with similar starting only issues and the DW injectors were the issue.
I also read about calibrating the injectors and latency. This was on another control platform though. I haven’t done anything with the various maps or setup other than described in the turbokit instructions. I need to get more knowledgeable on the Fic. I recall a start delay field in the 02 or Maf setup. Not sure what this is just yet, it was set at 3 seconds though.
I was wondering if there was a fire delay in the tune to allow oil pressure to build first? I would think it would be mentioned somewhere though.
I haven’t had a hard starting vehicle in decades, and am quite fond of first rotation starts.

 

[06YarisRS]

No worries on the absence. This is the most important time, and you provided the info I was looking for, someone with similar issues that has troubleshot some with mapping.
In theory, when I bypassed the Fic the problem should have gone away if it was tuning related. However, I didn’t spend much time with it bypassed except to start the car, so the ecu, probably didn’t have time to recalibrate.
I’m gonna go for a drive in a few and if the issue still persist, I might throw the stock injectors back in for starting tests. In my research, I came across a few threads with similar starting only issues and the DW injectors were the issue.
I also read about calibrating the injectors and latency. This was on another control platform though. I haven’t done anything with the various maps or setup other than described in the turbokit instructions. I need to get more knowledgeable on the Fic. I recall a start delay field in the 02 or Maf setup. Not sure what this is just yet, it was set at 3 seconds though.
I was wondering if there was a fire delay in the tune to allow oil pressure to build first? I would think it would be mentioned somewhere though.
I haven’t had a hard starting vehicle in decades, and am quite fond of first rotation starts.

Another thing I am going to have a look at is my 2.2Kohm resistor on the crank circuit. It seems to me that my starting problems had all but disappeared when I installed that - or maybe it was my idle stall. Anyway, I'll have a look to see if it hasn't fried. The next time I pull my car out for it's weekly warmup, I'm going to try spoofing the O2 voltage in the cranking area of the map and see if I can convince the car's ECU that it's richer than it actually is. I'll run the car to operating temp, then let it cool for 45 minutes to an hour, crank it and see if the problem goes away. I am pretty certain that it's flooding when the engine is warm at startup, because sometimes I smell fuel. It is weird, as if my car is stone cold, it literally fires right up in a nanosecond and idles smooth as silk. It never stalls and always idles perfectly. I'll also look into the start delay to which you refer. Will post back with my findings.

 

[FishHawk1]

Another thing I am going to have a look at is my 2.2Kohm resistor on the crank circuit. It seems to me that my starting problems had all but disappeared when I installed that - or maybe it was my idle stall. Anyway, I'll have a look to see if it hasn't fried. The next time I pull my car out for it's weekly warmup, I'm going to try spoofing the O2 voltage in the cranking area of the map and see if I can convince the car's ECU that it's richer than it actually is. I'll run the car to operating temp, then let it cool for 45 minutes to an hour, crank it and see if the problem goes away. I am pretty certain that it's flooding when the engine is warm at startup, because sometimes I smell fuel. It is weird, as if my car is stone cold, it literally fires right up in a nanosecond and idles smooth as silk. It never stalls and always idles perfectly. I'll also look into the start delay to which you refer. Will post back with my findings.

I’ll have to go back and look through your thread for detail on the resistor. I don’t recall that. Today she probably took 15 seconds to start with progressive pedal inputs after 10 with not even a sputter - cold.
took a short drive and shut it off for a minute. Started after a couple rotations of the crank. Just tried to start it again and was like a complete cold start. I did not swap out the injectors yet. I did however introduce a higher idle and extended warmup idle after cleaning the throttle body. The two long starts just described resulted in a strong raw fuel smell from the exhaust... makes me wonder what’s going on, as that tends to lead to a spark or timing issue.