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T100 for Overland Popup Camper?

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23K views 47 replies 9 participants last post by  whatsawrench  
#1 ·
Has anyone had experience hauling heavy payloads (around GVWR) over an extended period with a T100, particularly something like a truck camper? In particular, I am trying to figure out how the T100 frame/chassis handled such a load over time (assuming the appropriate suspension upgrades). Any ill effects?

Hi, I'm new to this forum but you guys have certainly inspired me to get into a T100. I've searched and read through all the threads on the forum dealing with heavy loads, but they were only the occasional (sometimes serious) overloads. I did see a couple attempts at truck campers (popup types like Four Wheel Camper). But I couldn't find any posts on long term experiences.

I am building an overland rig for me and my family. We plan to travel to Alaska, then down to Central/South America. I would like to get a 1996-1998 T100 4WD Extended with manual transmission for the many (hopefully good) reasons below. I plan to swap to an aluminum flatbed and add a custom All Terrain Camper popup camper (similar to FWC Hawk). The aluminum flatbed should equal or weigh slightly less than the stock bed. The camper fully loaded will be 1600-1700lbs. People weight is currently under 400, expected to be ~500 in a few years.

I plan to swap out the leaf packs and shocks, add air bags or equivalent, and other suspension buffs. I also plan to upgrade the brakes (if possible for the gen 1 Tundra ones; otherwise, I will beef up the rotor/pads). Depending on the condition on the T100, I may even do an engine replacement/rebuild.

I know the stock 3.4 V6 is going to be slow on hills and won't win races hauling such a load. I'm good with going slow, as long as we get there.

My reasons for T100:

1. Simplicity and reliablity. Manual transmission. Open engine bay. Boxed frame. Toyota. Minimal electronics. And if I'm lucky, the optional manual crank window. Conoces un buen mecanico en este pueblo?

2. Full sized bed with compact height. I am trying to keep the height low so we can go more places and into shipping containers. But we also need to put an 80' wide flatbed back there.

3. High GVWR/payload on a light truck. 1997 T100 4WD Extended weighs 4000lbs with a 6000lb GVWR, 2000lb payload. I am pretty sure the frame isn't much different than the 1-ton T100 with ~2500lb payload. Or the 1996-1998 Hilux (wiping drool from chin).

4. Chance to get to know my rig intimately. I plan to recondition the rig myself as much as possible so I can do it again when needed. By the side of the road. Raining. Over mud. In the dark. With screaming kids inside.

So any heavy weights out there?
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the Addiction!
Not exactly the direction your going but this owner found a pop-up and is doing a custom build to fit his needs. Also keep in mind if ya find a 97 or 98 you can eventually add the Super-charger! More ponies and torque. Added benefit of better performance at altitude!
 
#39 ·
Welcome to the Addiction!
Not exactly the direction your going but this owner found a pop-up and is doing a custom build to fit his needs. Also keep in mind if ya find a 97 or 98 you can eventually add the Super-charger! More ponies and torque. Added benefit of better performance at altitude!
Can a 96 not run a super charger? Or would a ECU from a 97 or 98 be needed.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
Welcome to the forums! :)

Where abouts are you located? A forum member just listed his 1998 T-100 Xtra cab 5-speed 4WD up fer sale in the San Francisco area. ;)
 
#7 ·
I have a Four Wheel Camper Fleet shell model on my 97 SR5 4x4 extra-cab, stock suspension with new bilstens and I use air bags when I have my camper on for the additional weight. My shell model weighs in at approximately 800 lbs, it will cruise at 70 mph all day in the flats and light grades. Its comfortable at 55-60 on the steeper grades with the overdrive off. Super charger is on my wish list.

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#11 ·
Additional comments I thought of after rereading your OP:
1. Stock suspension is pretty robust. I wouldn't worry about it unless your planning for lots of rock crawling. Airbags and a good set of shocks are all you'd need. Replacing sway bar bushings and end links w poly will greatly improve handling over stock though. Good set of tires on these trucks make a big difference too.
2. Related, I towed a 5k lb box trailer x-country w mine a few yrs ago. T handled superbly. A few of the nastier grades were easily overcome in 3rd.
3. Stock brakes are also fine for your intended needs though (perhaps hoping against hope here) see if you can score a '98 w ABS. Spend $$ elsewhere and just make sure they're maintained and in good working order.
4. Why the manual window cranks? Can't tell you how nice it is to be able to just quickly hit that switch to lower one or both windows on those frequent occasions when your hands might need to be doing 2 things at once (shifting, flipping switches, scrolling a map, skipping a song or checking Engine Temp on your phone?). Funcionan bien y son fáciles de arreglar cuando no lo hacen.
5. You'll def want to install manual locking hubs (e.g. search for Aisin hubs on the forum and you'll find all you need to know about this). ;)
 
#14 ·
Thank you for your insights. That's exactly what I was looking for: real world experiences with a truck camper. I am very gald to hear the T100 frame handles the load well. Looks like I'm going to narrow down the list of available T100s today and contact the sellers.

As for a used flatbed camper, they are hard to find, just as you mentioned. It would have been nice to get an older one that I can strip down (basically use it as a shell). I contacted FWC, and they do not build flatbed shells (I have no idea why, since they build slide-in shells). So ATC is the best option at this point, since they do custom shells.

I need a custom shell to minimize weight and have enough space for 5 people (2 adults and 3 small kids) to sleep comfortably. The camper will basically be 2 bed platforms over a kitchen counter and dinette/storage area (the dinette seats will be raised to counter level for additional storage underneath). I am using 1" aluminum square tubing as the frame and making custom-sized coroplast cubbies to fit inside the frame as storage. Even so, with all the food/gear, I am still realistically looking at 1600lbs. So I am very happy about the feedback on the T100's capabilities.

I didn't even think about ABS, so thanks for the heads-up! Hopefully, we end up with one with ABS. Is that like asking for a spotted unicorn?

The manual crank windows is just because if the power window dies, the window will have to stay up until we can get a replacement motor. Granted, the motor should be readily available, even in Latin Am. But hey, I've always wanted to yell at my kids to roll up the window :p

I am definitely with you on the manual hub. Those should be standard on 4x4s!
 
#17 ·
I don't know if its been mentioned but as Bam and others with a lot of experience with T100s have cautioned me, the spring perch on the rear axle is where most of the stress will go when loaded. Check your axles there as much as you can before buying. Look for any hairline cracks or fractures that might indicate a problem which could worsen over time.

I think the T100 is an excellent choice for an overland. You get a great modern engine and drivetrain without a lot of the fancy electronics which can fail when you're very far away from help.
Size is great for you and a companion and a couple dogs but if theres going to be any more than 2 humans involved, its a little tight.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for pointing that out. I searched the old posts and found a few mentions, mostly related to how to fix the cracks. Do you or Bam know what may cause this? Is it from rust/age? I read Bam mention that it tends to happen more on 4x4s. Would this be caused by compounded stress from a heavy load repeatedly pounding the axle? Or twisting of the axle? All of the above?

Reason I am asking is that I plan to be around gvwr and probably gawr. I will do what's necessary to ensure good suspension travel with the load. But if this is basically load related stress on the axle, I should budget an axle upgrade into the project (diamond or something like that?)
 
#18 ·

Many of you have probably seen this thread on expedition portal. A lot of T-100 info and FWC stuff, its older so many of the earlier photos are gone but the dialogue is there. "Whatsawrench" this might give you some insight as to what mods are useful and what the suspension can handle.
 
#21 ·
Besides the orientation of the leaf springs, one of the differences between the 2WD and 4WD is the driveshaft. The 2WD length is fixed while the 4WD has the slip joint. This allows the rear axle to wrap or rotate under load which can stress the rear axle housing at the spring perches. ;)
 
#22 ·
yea the combination of having the axle at an angle and dropping the truck down after youve driven over a large rock or into a large offroad sized pothole can cause some damage.
Im not enough of an engineer to know whether its more axle wrap or weight but either way, sounds like youll be dealing with a bit of both of these so it doesnt make a huge difference.
In the past, Ive asked about welding a reinforcement at the perch ahead of any damage but was dissuaded not to due to how thin the axle tube is. With that said, if you know a really good fabricator whose got a good hand with thin gauge metal, you might talk to them. Ultimately, if your not putting dana or chevy axles under this thing, all you can do is spread the stress out. You cant eliminate the weak spots altogether.
With all that said, Ive camped the heck out of my T with a camper shell and gear in the back. And I regularly drive gnarly roads. And the axle is still together. Now I feel like I need to look at it though.
Ultimately, how you drive will have a huge impact on how much force is transferred to the axle. The less you let the rear axle drop hard, the more life youll get out of it.
And if you do get a T100, please check your ball joints and all that stuff. Or have a shop do it. People take the Toyota reputation as bulletproof to mean no maintenance and overlook certain things (cough me? cough)

If this is the one thing that might make you not want a T100, its not a huge deal. Id still put a T100 in my top 10 overland vehicles and potentially top 5, but then again Im bias.
 
#24 · (Edited)
If this is the one thing that might make you not want a T100, its not a huge deal. Id still put a T100 in my top 10 overland vehicles and potentially top 5, but then again Im bias.
Haha, too late. I'm already sold on the T100. I've contacted a couple sellers already and waiting on responses. Can't wait to join the T100 club :)

2. If you're making an alum flatbed, why not fab up some custom pop-up? You could shave off a lot of weight by eliminating redundant material and increase your floorspace to suit the flatbed.
3. Im assuming youve already seen this but this build/travel thread should give you some ideas
I am actually looking at a direct to frame mount poptop camper as an option. It should work well with a T because of the boxes frame. Someone actually did it already on a Ford Ranger: Direct Bolt on Flatbed - All Terrain Camper Discussions Once I get my T, I plan to talk to All Terrain Camper about a similar setup.

Thanks for that link. I haven't read that thread since I only recently got on the T train :) Glad to see many others going the same route!

Regarding the rear axle, I definitely plan on switching it out (not sure with what yet). Diamond Axle sounds like a good but expensive solution. Haven't had a chance to research Chevy axles yet. Haha, I know next to nothing about axle designs, so I'm playing catch-up on my reading at the moment. But yeah, something needs to be done back there, or I am going to find myself in a bad spot where I can't get T100 sized axles.

The T is definitely a perfect fit for an overland family. A Landcruiser would have been perfect for a couple, but that won't work with kids. A T is the perfect blend of simplicity and capability.
 
#23 ·
I just reread your 1st post. And I have a couple points.
1. if you gear your truck right, you can haul. The 3.4 puts out decent torque. Id put that motor in every vehicle I own except my tow rig. But my tow rig gets 10 mpg downhill.
2. If you're making an alum flatbed, why not fab up some custom pop-up? You could shave off a lot of weight by eliminating redundant material and increase your floorspace to suit the flatbed.
3. Im assuming youve already seen this but this build/travel thread should give you some ideas
4. Throw a chevy axle under it if youre concerned about weight. At least look into possibilities for the swap. You might even find one with a compatible lug pattern.
5. Before you go on a trip, get a heavy duty clutch put in. If youve got weight in the bed and going up and down mountains, youre going to be grinding some gears at some point. I think marlin sells them?

If youre asking about T100s, youre on the right track. Its hard for me to think of anything better. Tundras are cool but there a little step further into the electronics era.
 
#25 ·
Sounds like its going to be a cool project. If you look at some 1st gen tacoma builds, you can get ideas for yours too (and silently gloat about having some shoulder room).
Because the T was not a long production run, you have to learn what other vehicles use the same parts. Many 90s toyotas do, t100 are kind of a recycling bin of parts.
Expedition portal is a good rabbit hole, they love toyotas over there too.

Why has America been cut off from the landcruiser? If someone ran for president promising to bring us the pickup bed LC Id vote for them, steal someones identity and then vote for them again.
 
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#31 ·
I agree that the T100 is not perfect as considered for a heavy camper rig but one of the key components of "overland" travel is being miles away from gas stations for extended periods of time. If budget were not an issue, you can make an argument for a late model f250 with a 3.5 ecoboost or something with a cummins in it. You could buy a 90s dodge for less thank 10k and have a solid platform there. Would it be as reliable as a T100? Id love to find out.

The other thing to consider abt the T100, IIRC this was only sold in the US, so youd want to carry parts like an extra CV once you get south of the border. Then again youd want that stuff anyway for overland travel.

I enjoy this conversation and Im not trying to persuade you one way or the other. I love the T100 and if you get one, I know you will too. However its worth the time to really consider all the options for such a specific purpose oriented platform.
 
#34 ·
We are planning to travel to Central and South America. As I understand it, there may be Toyota dealers in the capital cities. They won't have T100 parts, but can order parts (or we can work with a US dealer to ship parts). They may not have seen a T100, but the 90's Hilux should be common. And isn't the T100 just a fat Hilux with its front shoelace untied (IFS)? :p I don't expect such luck with a Big 3 truck.

In towns and villages they should have mechanics that can patch/weld/fab/adapt stuff to keep you going. That is supposed to be standard practice to keep vehicles going until they literally fall apart. A broken axle is probably fixable (at least enough to limp to the next town). A broken window motor is not.

BTW, the 1998+ Hilux Xtracab has GVWR of 2750kg (6063lbs) and curb weight of 1574kg (3470lbs), with payload of 1176kg (2593lbs): http://www.brian894x4.com/Hiluxspecs.jpg These Toyota trucks are built to haul stuff around!
 
#42 ·
Ive got 265,75,16s on and love them. Thats somewhere arnd a 31.
I can get to any campground Ive tried to get to. And it feels great on the highway and gets purty decent mpgs (no numbers yet). Its not a wheeler or rock crawler but for me the combo is perfect. Id go lower gears from factory though.
No lift needed but youll have to do something in the back to keep the weight levelled out.

Not a T100 but a great build for some tech you might be interested in.
Including 360 degree trail cameras:cool: