Sounds like your thermostat has failed again. Did you get OEM?

What kind of MPG are you getting? Any fuel smells? When I had a bad thermostat, the MPG didn't drop that drastically.

 

Nah I bought a Stant one off of RockAuto i think it was well reviewed. As for MPG my car usually gets a bad reading cause I carry a lot of shit in the trunk but I can safely say it’s worse than it was a week ago. Less than 25 mpg for sure

also the muffler always smells a little rich but I feel like that’s a normal thing

 

The exhaust shouldn't smell rich. Thermostat is a good starting point.

 

Do you know a trusted brand i can buy at an autozone or advance or something?

has your CEL triggered?

Not yet, should I expect one soon? It’s been two days since this started

 

has the CEL triggered?

 

I would suggest to buy OEM (90916-03046 for me).

 

What you’re saying is I should call a dealer and inquire or go to eBay. The point is OEM

 

Popped open my radiator cap that I haven’t replaced and noticed there’s this white crud on the tip. Same thing goes for the overflow reservoir. Is there a gasket leak or something somewhere? cause I had something like this happen with a Chevy venture, where the oil and coolant mixed and i had to scrap that shit because it wasn’t worth it.

 

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My old '93 Corolla with a 4A-FE had that crap in the coolant. I never did figure it out, and the car never exhibited any other signs of a bad head gasket, so basically I just rolled with it.

You'd think a Stant would last at least a few years... I forget what I put in the '93, and in my '97, but I think I just got one from the local McParts store. The one in the '93 lasted the five more years I had that car, and the one in my '97 is going on three years.

 

Hook up an OBD2 reader and look at the coolant temperature as you are driving. It should also tell you if you are in closed loop operation. If the coolant temperature drops you will go back to open loop and that's when your mileage will drop.

 

I need to buy one of these tomorrow when I get paid. The only one in my reach rn just reads codes.

It looks like tap water deposits to me. Did you use tap water to fill the cooling system at some point?

Yeah I did but not really a lot I don’t even remember how much. I got my radiator replaced but didn’t get it flushed…

get headgasket coolant in oil test kit,,, looks like headgasket leak to me... oil goes into coolant.... exhaust gasses into coolant causing crud and temp fluctuations

this is what I fear the most anytime I see head gasket test kid I think of seized engine. I’ll buy this tomorrow too.

 

It looks like tap water deposits to me. Did you use tap water to fill the cooling system at some point?

 

get headgasket coolant in oil test kit,,, looks like headgasket leak to me... oil goes into coolant.... exhaust gasses into coolant causing crud and temp fluctuations

 

About to drive for 30 minutes into NYC I’ll take pics of the gauge

 

Before spending lots of money, I would suggest to simply flush your cooling system (including engine block) and refill with coolant first.

 

Is this a reaction that would occur mixing two different types of coolant ?

 

Gauge may or may not be accurate. It has it's own sensor that's completely separate from sensor ECU uses to monitor engine temps.

1. was radiator full when you removed that cap?

2. how much coolant did you have to add to top off?

3. do compression test...

 

Before spending lots of money, I would suggest to simply flush your cooling system (including engine block) and refill with coolant first.

You think i can settle with hose water or grab some distilled water instead? i think i have time to do this today.

Is this a reaction that would occur mixing two different types of coolant ?

i wouldnt be surprised if that was the reason i actually did that two months ago, i mixed some universal yellow with the peak red in my stuff cause of the situation i was in.

Gauge may or may not be accurate. It has it's own sensor that's completely separate from sensor ECU uses to monitor engine temps. 1. was radiator full when you removed that cap? 2. how much coolant did you have to add to top off? 3. do compression test...

1. No 2. Uhhhh i guestimated sorry 3. I need a kit for this no?

 

probably best to do with distilled water

 

You use the flush for the block. There are instructions on the box. If you use premixed, it's much more difficult to get the concentration right and more expensive.

The drain bolt is next to the oil filter.

 

I’ll see if I can get my hands on some distilled water and a 5 gallon bucket in that case. I think I have enough time for everything.

 

Just noticed this stuff behind the counter I remember one of the employees telling me it was the shit. You guys think it’ll get the job done?

 

Disgusting

 

I couldn’t break free the drain bolt on the engine block so I feel like I didn’t get a proper job done. When rinsing out the flush that I bought I was only able to get 1 gallon of antifreeze into the radiator. I guess I’m missing a half or it’s up in the block somewhere. It also started pouring here so it killed my vibe and it made me rush the job.

while driving I notice it sits just like right below the middle at idle, and when I drive sometimes it dips a bit halfway between the lower half. I’ve been driving for an hour and it hasn’t really hovered directly on the C but I feel like this could’ve gone way better if I just drained the block.

 

I didn’t know Corolla’s can make chocolate milk

 

Yeah, there's still a lot of old coolant in the block and heater core. At least you got some of it, so try again next time.

 

Scared of trying a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the bolt you think it’d be too much?

 

Be gentle and don't force it!

 

I thought I was going to have a hard time getting the block drain plug out. Maybe it was when I tried previously on my 1990 4A-FE engine that I had a hard time. It seemed the ratchet would hit the alternator or alternator bracket and I couldn't get a socket straight on the bolt.

When I changed my coolant a couple months ago I was able to just use a few socket extensions and hold the ratchet out to where the radiator is, so I could rotate the ratchet in that area past the exhaust manifold. It was very easy, so I'm not sure why I thought it would be harder other than maybe on the 4A-FE it's harder to get to (compared to the 7A-FE). I actually bought a new drain plug just in case I messed the old one up somehow trying to get it out, but it came out so easily I was able to reuse it.

 

I did mine a few years ago too (7AFE) with no issues. I put some Subaru Fuji Bond on the threads when I re-installed it to keep it in place but avoid getting it seized in place. I keep the Fuji Bond for my Outback's rear diff's drain/fill plugs as the FSM calls for it. It sort of acts as part liquid gasket / part thread lock.

 

Low coolant can cause erratic temp gauge reading. Uphill the coolant goes away from the sensor, etc. Live data scanner: compare the temp gauge sender and engine coolant temp sender.

I had to top off gas everyday.

With a live data scanner look at the Fuel Trim. Could be fuel pressure regulator leaking vacuum. If the engine thinks it is too cold it will mess with fuel economy.
find out why the coolant was low.

 

Went to the dealer to see what they would say but they forgot to give me the sheet with the inspection stuff on it which is what i actually wanted. Anyways the guy said the thermostat and the temp switch (?) needs to be replaced. It was gonna be $950 for the parts and labor. I immediately dubbed it.
Never heard of a temp switch, anyone wanna help me out with it? The guy said it’s located below the thermostat housing or something of that nature.

suffering.

 

Since your OE thermostat is new that should narrow it down to the ECT sensor. Did you connect it properly after installing the thermostat? And to go back a few posts:

Went to the dealer to see what they would say but they forgot to give me the sheet with the inspection stuff on it which is what i actually wanted. Anyways the guy said the thermostat and the temp switch (?) needs to be replaced.

He might be talking about the coolant temperature sensor which is on the thermostat housing.

So to @Apples555's point they may have meant the ECT sensor is bad - essentially what the DTC is telling you (ruling out the thermostat since it's new and OE).

 

The temperature switch controls the fan. I replaced mine a few years ago - pretty straightforward.