Use your VIN on this site and look up the P/N you need and use the sites cross-reference to see what else used that part. The example below is the Crankshaft Pulley, you can see it was used on several years of Corolla's as well.

ToyoDIY.com

 

There are engine import business that occasionally import 20v engines. They often charge more due to the rarity here in the US. I’ve seen postings on Facebook marketplace and Craigslist. They’re often sold with transmission, harness and ecu.

As for parts, they will be difficult to source on the used market. Last part out I saw for a 20v, it was a gold mine. But sold quick.

You can try amayama, as they are one of the larger warehouses for oem parts. They sometimes can source discontinued parts.

 

Facebook groups can help, there are a number of 20v's in the US, mostly engine swaps so you'll have to go through specialized groups, I'm sure many people in the US have used 20v parts laying around, this engine has been traveling the world for a while now, as it's the most popular swap for the AE86.

One of the main 4AGE specialists in the US is Battle Garage Racing Service they're usually helpful with fellow 4age enthusiasts and they have a lot in stock. There's also SQ Engineering in Australia, they have quite a bit in stock for 16v and 20v engines as well.

Can you take some pictures of the damage, close ups of the crank pulley and the crank threads ? the crank pulley bolts directly into the crankshaft so if this particular thread is damaged it could be costly to fix, if it's not too bad you could always try to rethread it with a tap if there's enough left to bite into it properly.

 

 

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From the looks of it the damper pulley was installed with a damaged or incompatible key, the key mostly disintegrated it seems, and the damper pulley hole ended up being chewed, so yeah at the very least you need a new pulley and key. To install the key properly I'm not entirely sure but I think you'll have to remove the timing gear as well.

But it seems the thread isn't actually damaged, from what can be seen of the screw at least, maybe clean everything and try to screw it in to see if it engages properly without going sideways.

EDIT : just to add to this, if the key isn't replaced by the proper one you risk spinning the timing gear, and as far as I can remember the Blacktop is an interference engine, so it's not something to take lightly, get the proper parts.

 

Thank you so much for your help. Does it also appear part is broken off behind? Is there another engine to pull from maybe the 20v silvertop? Anything in the US that matches up?

 

Something in the keyhole back there perhaps?

 

This is interesting. From our friends Down Under!

https://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/difference-between-silver-and-blacktop-20v-4age-engines/

 

So from this knowledge it appears that virtually nothing is interchangeable without modification? Super duper. How about the end of that crankshaft? Does it look able to accept another 4age blacktop pulley? Anyone here with any knowledge about building these specific engines?

 

Amayama shows they stock parts for the crank shaft.

Toyota 13401-16020 (1340116020) CRANKSHAFT

Toyota 13401-16020 (1340116020) CRANKSHAFT. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

 

Has anyone ever ordered from them. I tried getting some MR2 parts and they said they had them until push came to shove.

The info I’ve read seemed good. Unless they ran out of parts when you ordered?

Amayama doesn't actually stock most parts, they just source from Toyota warehouses and OEM suppliers in Japan/UAE etc, which is why they don't confirm availability until you actually pay for the order (which is bad form, and different to how they used to operate too) and stock numbers are often based on what was there the last time they ordered something.

I've used them many times in the past with mostly favourable results, however they can be frustrating to deal with when it comes to the one essential part of an order which ends up being out of stock (ie if I can't get all the parts then I don't want any of them), plus their postage times have been glacially slow of late (in the order of months even for stuff which is air-freighted out of Japan/UAE).

 

Has anyone ever ordered from them. I tried getting some MR2 parts and they said they had them until push came to shove.

 

The info I’ve read seemed good. Unless they ran out of parts when you ordered?

 

More stuff to add to your library.
FWIW, I think that crank can be cleaned up to take a new pulley.
P/N comparison shows p/n 13470-16030 is the crankshaft pulley for the Blacktop and it was also used on others including the 85' Celica GT 16v turbo 4AGE. Just have to use the sites I mentioned and shop and compare.

Clubman Builders Resource - 4-AGE Blacktop Manual

Clubman Builders Resource - 4-AGE Blacktop Manual

locost7.info

https://jjhengines.com/shop/jdm-engine-4age-blacktop-for-sale/

 

I just want to thank everyone for their replies. I am very much a lover of all cars and have joined many forums and this by far has been the most responsive. Still looking for that crankshaft pulley, I really don't want or need a lightweight pulley but it seems aftermarket may be my only option. I found one oem out of japan but it would take 2 months to get here and cost over 500$! The lightweight one's I have seen are all around 150$ I just have to make sure they are for my car I guess. Still, I am much more used to (and would prefer)scouring junkyards with my part to make sure everything lines up. This is all new to me(having a car i cannot get parts for) and I am a little nervous, if there is any way to fix this short of pulling the engine I would like to try. Does anyone know if the 95 corolla and the 95 sprinter trueno share any body parts? I need a driver's side handle lol I would look to join a 7th gen sprinter trueno forum but I fear me and the guys in Australia would be the only people in it

 

Damn dude, that sucks. Cant believe you bought a RHD car without knowing what it is. Congrats... i guess?
Bad news is that its gonna take about $1-2k more just to make the engine run. Your best bet is to find a reground crank, itll be fresh and comes with matched bearings. I dont recommend attempting buying a used crank. Contact sales@crankshaftsupply.com ask for 96061 and if they have any in stock, where can you get it, do they plan on having more. That kit is posted for $180. I dont think a machine shop can help, there doesnt look to be any threads left.
More bad news: looks like you need that crank timing pulley, too. And that is specific for the BT. That hole where the key goes looks damaged and not square and when its whirling around at 8k rpm, there can be no room for error.
And a crank pulley. The back end looks like it wobbled out and stretched it. I would consider if there's a weight difference between yours and a 16v. If you dont care about that, just use a 16v pulley and a 4 rib belt.
Good luck, i bought an ae102 with a 4afe and the @$$hole did the same exact thing: packed it with red loctite on the crank bolt

 

Im sorry for saying this, but that engine is wasted being mated to an AT. Its never going to sing through the individual throttle body trumpets or hit the vvti.
The BT is a high strung naturally aspirated that is made, designed and sought after for those 8k rpms. Mating it to an AT is like taking a Kentucky derby winning race horse and hooking it up to a field plow. Yes, itll do the job but there's more effective of getting it done.

Im sorry for the rant. Drive what you like. Hope you like the sprinter.
BTW, the BT takes 100 octane. So thats 93 supreme plus 2 bottles of octane booster each tank

 

Im sorry for saying this, but that engine is wasted being mated to an AT. Its never going to sing through the individual throttle body trumpets or hit the vvti.
The BT is a high strung naturally aspirated that is made, designed and sought after for those 8k rpms. Mating it to an AT is like taking a Kentucky derby winning race horse and hooking it up to a field plow. Yes, itll do the job but there's more effective of getting it done.

Im sorry for the rant. Drive what you like. Hope you like the sprinter.
BTW, the BT takes 100 octane. So thats 93 supreme plus 2 bottles of octane booster each tank

It's VVT on the blacktop, not VVTi, and it's effective between 2k and 6k, it's designed to help at low/mid RPM, nothing like what you would find on a 2ZZ for example, so in theory he would always be in VVT if he drives it slow

Machining the key wouldn't be a problem, as far as whirring around at 8k rpms this is an automatic, not a race car, I doubt it would see over 4k rpms if that matters. As for the timing gear, is this something that could be pulled with the engine in? The car ran well enough to drive an hour before the accessory belt finally let go, and at around 55mph it seemed to hit a resonant balance and was smooth. It wasn't until I got into low idle traffic that it started getting bad. I am definitely going to get a new crank pulley(I think the one he slapped one it was for an american silvertop being that the dimensions are not the same as the aftermarket blacktop pullies) but I would hate to have to do any more than neccesary with such a low mileage engine. The more invasive I get, the more chances something will go terribly awry!

I sure hope it'll see more than 4k rpm lol, that's what it's made for, and the AT transmission ECU should reach anywhere between 7800 and 8000 rpm. There is no such thing as an american Silvertop afaik, these engines were never available in the US, but it doesn't matter because the Silvertop and Blacktop crank pulleys are the same, it's the timing gear that's different.

EDIT : I forgot to add, yes of course all of that can be done without pulling the engine. Also remember to use high octane fuel, 98RON would be ideal, it's the same for most JDM only engines.

 

Someone had their fun. It’s unfortunate that it’s in the condition it is.

Might be cheaper with this route.

404 Not Found | JDM Of San Diego

jdmofsandiego.com

 

I have the SC 4A-GZE (4ag) engine for 33 years and have gone thru similar key problems with the timing gear and a mildly chewed up crank keyway. (My failure was in the gear keyway.)
My move was to purchase a new gear and new key and used a good faced pulley with a 100% undamaged keyway.
Since the key is held 50/50 with the gear and pulley both having these two parts sharing the top of the key you have a better chance of not having slippage on the key in the crankshaft keyway .
IMHO I would go so far to suggest that in your case you may want to consider the Toyota oval key be replaced with a rectangular key to fit the dimensions of the crankshaft keyway since the keyways of the gear and the pulley will not be affected yet you will be able to add more key surface into the crank keyway and perhaps resist further damages by adding more structural integrity.
Your use of the AT will no doubt add extra years in lieu of hot rodding a bang-shift manual.

In conclusion, this forum needs to remember that we are now driving antique aged cars with parts that are "collectibles" in some cases.

Perhaps the racer types would consider some newer cars with easier to access parts.?

Mr2Tim
SC ToyZ RacZing
AACA Class 24-B,
FT Lauderdale Region
437,000 miles

 

I have the SC 4A-GZE (4ag) engine for 33 years and have gone thru similar key problems with the timing gear and a mildly chewed up crank keyway. (My failure was in the gear keyway.)
My move was to purchase a new gear and new key and used a good faced pulley with a 100% undamaged keyway.
Since the key is held 50/50 with the gear and pulley both having these two parts sharing the top of the key you have a better chance of not having slippage on the key in the crankshaft keyway .
IMHO I would go so far to suggest that in your case you may want to consider the Toyota oval key be replaced with a rectangular key to fit the dimensions of the crankshaft keyway since the keyways of the gear and the pulley will not be affected yet you will be able to add more key surface into the crank keyway and perhaps resist further damages by adding more structural integrity.
Your use of the AT will no doubt add extra years in lieu of hot rodding a bang-shift manual.

In conclusion, this forum needs to remember that we are now driving antique aged cars with parts that are "collectibles" in some cases.

Perhaps the racer types would consider some newer cars with easier to access parts.?

Mr2Tim
SC ToyZ RacZing
AACA Class 24-B,
FT Lauderdale Region
437,000 miles

What about the threads for the pulley? Those are messed up and likely needs either helicoil or replaced.

 

OP, I'd suggest you step back an take a deep breathe!
Your reaching a point of cutting off your nose to spit your face!
I and many others could resolve most of your issues but we won't. Not with a chip on your shoulder!
GL

 

I used to daily my 20v swapped 95 and tbh it’s not as bad as you’d think. Parts are rare but after years of searching old forums it’s not as intimidating as you think. These are engines are pretty strong, it’s rare to have issues aside from the hydraulic belt tensioner and knock so you do need to run octane booster. I recommend Royal purple ($14 at autozone, dump the whole can per tank fill) I recommend checking out that tensioner before you start putting miles on it because you can risk jumping teeth and wrecking your interference engine. I will link you to two websites 1. for cross reference 4AGE 20V Part Number
2. Amayama.com for OEM parts
Also please change your damn oil often and don’t put 10w-40 or 20w50 it’s a much tighter engine than the old 16v
And lastly if you are planning on running stacks pls get an pipercross filter. These engines are hitting 30 years of age and running no filter is a great way to get rid of the factory hash marks on your cylinder walls