I have a 2007 Highlander with 212,000 miles on it. As far as I know, the trans fluid has never been changed, though it's level has always remained constant, and the fluid does not smell burned nor is it dark. How often should the fluid have been chaged and should I go ahead and change it, to include dropping the pan and changing the filter? I am a believer of "if it ain't broke don't fix it" but wondering if I should at least change the tranny fluid and filter. Thanks.
springfield59
There's no set interval. Some say 30K, some 50K, some 70K, etc. Toyota says you don't need to change it, but no fluid lasts forever. All Toyota cares about is that the car lasts past the warranty period, after that, they don't care. If it were my car, I'd be changing the fluid every 30-50K.
Since the fluid is not dark or burnt, that means that the fluid is not in terrible condition. That's good, meaning it is still providing some level of heat protection and is not super contaminated with transmission shavings. So the old fluid hasn't damaged the transmission too much. I would go ahead and do a drain and fill. I would avoid a pressurized flushing machine, as they can sometimes cause more problems. I would do a drain and fill, which replaces something like a third of the fluid, then do another drain and fill in a few thousand miles. This way, you keep your fluid fresh.
Since the fluid seems to be in OK condition, I personally wouldn't bother with draining the pan and replacing the filter. It's certainly not a bad idea, but I think you'd benefit more from doing a drain/fill a second or third time.
Since the fluid is not dark or burnt, that means that the fluid is not in terrible condition. That's good, meaning it is still providing some level of heat protection and is not super contaminated with transmission shavings. So the old fluid hasn't damaged the transmission too much. I would go ahead and do a drain and fill. I would avoid a pressurized flushing machine, as they can sometimes cause more problems. I would do a drain and fill, which replaces something like a third of the fluid, then do another drain and fill in a few thousand miles. This way, you keep your fluid fresh.
Since the fluid seems to be in OK condition, I personally wouldn't bother with draining the pan and replacing the filter. It's certainly not a bad idea, but I think you'd benefit more from doing a drain/fill a second or third time.
over 200,000 miles? I'd replace the filter as well, it'll take you an extra hour or so and you can rest assured your transmission is getting full oil flow. Also, there were a few posts a while back about transmission problems in 200,000 + mile highlanders that were solved with a filter change.
spring: +1 on what jiantao said.
2003 V6 AWD 357k miles. Original owner. Daily driver.
Here is what I do:
Change interval 2 years or about 40k miles.
Drain and fill only. No flush! Do not go to those quick change oil places for a transmission flush. Bad. Bad. Bad.
Each drain and fill takes about 3 and 3/4ths liters. (I buy 4 one-liter bottles.)
ATF choice - Toyota T-IV. Cheapest I have found is at the dealer parts window. True. (Check your owners manual for ATF type, it may be different than the 2003)
Since you do not know current age of the car's ATF I'd suggest 3 consecutive drain and fills with about 200 miles driving between each. That will displace most of the old fluid.
BTW- I use an electric vacuum pump to draw the old ATF out via the dipstick tube. (Marine engine oil extractor.) Works slick. Not having to crawl under the car...priceless!
Good luck, Haya....
2003 V6 AWD 357k miles. Original owner. Daily driver.
Here is what I do:
Change interval 2 years or about 40k miles.
Drain and fill only. No flush! Do not go to those quick change oil places for a transmission flush. Bad. Bad. Bad.
Each drain and fill takes about 3 and 3/4ths liters. (I buy 4 one-liter bottles.)
ATF choice - Toyota T-IV. Cheapest I have found is at the dealer parts window. True. (Check your owners manual for ATF type, it may be different than the 2003)
Since you do not know current age of the car's ATF I'd suggest 3 consecutive drain and fills with about 200 miles driving between each. That will displace most of the old fluid.
BTW- I use an electric vacuum pump to draw the old ATF out via the dipstick tube. (Marine engine oil extractor.) Works slick. Not having to crawl under the car...priceless!
Good luck, Haya....
At 212 K miles I'd change the filter. You can do a drain/refill first and see how the transmission responds.
You can use the Aisin fluid on rockauto. Aisin is a Toyota Group company. Or just buy from the local dealer. That way you cut down on the variables. Other members like the Valvoline Maxlife ATF, $18/gallon at walmart. T-IV is conventional dino, Maxlife is fully synthetic. I'm surprised to see 07 U241e lists T-IV! (on Amsoil and rockauto).
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You can use the Aisin fluid on rockauto. Aisin is a Toyota Group company. Or just buy from the local dealer. That way you cut down on the variables. Other members like the Valvoline Maxlife ATF, $18/gallon at walmart. T-IV is conventional dino, Maxlife is fully synthetic. I'm surprised to see 07 U241e lists T-IV! (on Amsoil and rockauto).
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First the only reason they do not recommend a fluid change at a set interval is to make it attractive to fleet buyers since initial cost of ownership is a HUGE point for fleets like rental car companies and pharmaceutical companies etc....
They also found too many idiots were putting the wrong fluid in or over filling the transmission. They want the powertrain to make it outside of warranty before it has issues or it cuts into profits.
Long ago I think the recommendation was something like every 12K or 15K miles you should drain and refill which is why Toyota gave you a convenient drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan.
On a sealed system every 24K to 50K makes sense depending on the quality of the fluid and how the vehicle is used you drop the pan, change the filter and refill.
I am not a fan of flushing a properly working transmission. If it has been neglected just drain refill drive for 2 weeks until your next payday and repeat. Do this again and again say 3-4 times and call it good. You can get Idemitsu(sp) @ autozone in both T-IV compatible and WS compatible version fairly cheaply. To date I have used Valvoline MaxLife ATF, Castrol Transmax Import, Mobil-1, Idemetisu TL-LV etc.....You can get the real stuff from local Toyota dealer. You can get version marketed by Aisin, Bekarnley and many other from Rocauto and Amazon.
If you plan to change freq. it does not matter in this application if the fluid is synthetic or not. If you plan to go a long long time between changing it use a good synthetic and pay the price.
Toyota claims the WS fluid is good for 100,000 miles but they make no mention of how long the filter will last with out reducing the flow or the size of the wear particles and what the filter is rated to stop over that 100,000. On of the things a transmission fluid does is suspend the solids especialy if you see a hint of barrium like Redline ATF it is their to suspend any solids. When you drain the fluid regularly you also are draining any suspended solids out so the filter does not have to try to stop them. Not everything that is a wear item in ferrous in a transmission. So when you drain regularly and refill you not only extend the life of the transmission itself but you reduce the chances of the felt filter plugging up or more likely extend it's usefully life.
The rubber or soft parts in a transmission depend on fresh fluid that is not oxidized and has fresh seal swelling agents in it to keep them in good shape. Oxidation of the fluid absolutely destroys seals. ATF's are not very robust in the additive department so regular replacement is a must for the longest service life. All of those "Transmedic" in a bottle things for transmissions do two basic things. 1) They have some sort of solvent to dissolve the gum and varnish inside the transmission from oxidation and neglect.2)They have some sort of agent to soften and swell hard dried up seals. As long as the seals are not already dry rotted, cracked or crumbling those sorts of things can help. None of those medic in a can things can do anything if mechanical parts or electrical have been damaged or worn beyond repair. Freq. the dosage of those things is insane. Keep in mind that no combustion byproducts are ever seen by the transmission so it is not at all hard to clean the varnish out. I have my own methods that are more gentle than those mechanic in a bottle things but would not want someone else to do them in case they ever did any harm.
The wifes Camry has about 157K miles on it I think this Winter I plan on getting a filter kit and replacing the filter on it. Should be good for another 150K miles!
They also found too many idiots were putting the wrong fluid in or over filling the transmission. They want the powertrain to make it outside of warranty before it has issues or it cuts into profits.
Long ago I think the recommendation was something like every 12K or 15K miles you should drain and refill which is why Toyota gave you a convenient drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan.
On a sealed system every 24K to 50K makes sense depending on the quality of the fluid and how the vehicle is used you drop the pan, change the filter and refill.
I am not a fan of flushing a properly working transmission. If it has been neglected just drain refill drive for 2 weeks until your next payday and repeat. Do this again and again say 3-4 times and call it good. You can get Idemitsu(sp) @ autozone in both T-IV compatible and WS compatible version fairly cheaply. To date I have used Valvoline MaxLife ATF, Castrol Transmax Import, Mobil-1, Idemetisu TL-LV etc.....You can get the real stuff from local Toyota dealer. You can get version marketed by Aisin, Bekarnley and many other from Rocauto and Amazon.
If you plan to change freq. it does not matter in this application if the fluid is synthetic or not. If you plan to go a long long time between changing it use a good synthetic and pay the price.
Toyota claims the WS fluid is good for 100,000 miles but they make no mention of how long the filter will last with out reducing the flow or the size of the wear particles and what the filter is rated to stop over that 100,000. On of the things a transmission fluid does is suspend the solids especialy if you see a hint of barrium like Redline ATF it is their to suspend any solids. When you drain the fluid regularly you also are draining any suspended solids out so the filter does not have to try to stop them. Not everything that is a wear item in ferrous in a transmission. So when you drain regularly and refill you not only extend the life of the transmission itself but you reduce the chances of the felt filter plugging up or more likely extend it's usefully life.
The rubber or soft parts in a transmission depend on fresh fluid that is not oxidized and has fresh seal swelling agents in it to keep them in good shape. Oxidation of the fluid absolutely destroys seals. ATF's are not very robust in the additive department so regular replacement is a must for the longest service life. All of those "Transmedic" in a bottle things for transmissions do two basic things. 1) They have some sort of solvent to dissolve the gum and varnish inside the transmission from oxidation and neglect.2)They have some sort of agent to soften and swell hard dried up seals. As long as the seals are not already dry rotted, cracked or crumbling those sorts of things can help. None of those medic in a can things can do anything if mechanical parts or electrical have been damaged or worn beyond repair. Freq. the dosage of those things is insane. Keep in mind that no combustion byproducts are ever seen by the transmission so it is not at all hard to clean the varnish out. I have my own methods that are more gentle than those mechanic in a bottle things but would not want someone else to do them in case they ever did any harm.
The wifes Camry has about 157K miles on it I think this Winter I plan on getting a filter kit and replacing the filter on it. Should be good for another 150K miles!
Change filter and refill with fresh ATF. Use dealer sourced filter, its o-ring, and pan gasket. Refill with equivalent specification fluid(see owners manual). I have seen too many low quality aftermarket ATF filters and don't recommend ANY aftermarket ATF filters. I have seen plenty of excellent aftermarket fluids and recommend all that mention your required specification.
When pan is off, make sure pan magnets are cleaned, pan is cleaned, and EVERYTHING is torqued to required specification.
If AWD, don't forget the transfer case and rear differential and change 'em both too.
Aisin T-IV ATF from rockauto with that 5% discount code that pops up often enough(almost covers shipping), is a no brainer. Castrol and Valvoline have "Import" ATFs, and Pennzoil has a high mileage ATF, if you want to source locally.
No additives or anything special is needed. Get that initial pan drop, filter change, fluid refill, and see how it goes. Higher mileage transmissions needed to be treated with respect. So, don't go around racing it just because you have new ATF.
Pick a regimen for ATF drain/refills that is within your budget.... mine get it yearly or about 15k miles.
When pan is off, make sure pan magnets are cleaned, pan is cleaned, and EVERYTHING is torqued to required specification.
If AWD, don't forget the transfer case and rear differential and change 'em both too.
Aisin T-IV ATF from rockauto with that 5% discount code that pops up often enough(almost covers shipping), is a no brainer. Castrol and Valvoline have "Import" ATFs, and Pennzoil has a high mileage ATF, if you want to source locally.
No additives or anything special is needed. Get that initial pan drop, filter change, fluid refill, and see how it goes. Higher mileage transmissions needed to be treated with respect. So, don't go around racing it just because you have new ATF.
Pick a regimen for ATF drain/refills that is within your budget.... mine get it yearly or about 15k miles.
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