Should I just change the fluid again in case it was burned and replace the crush washer while I'm at it? Thanks.

Yes. I'd also pull the trans pan and have a look if any debris on the bottom.

 

The thing is, I'm don't think the fluid really ran low enough for the transmission to overheat. I'm just concerned because of the particles I see. I added half a quart and it seems pretty much full. I've never dropped the pan before so I'm a little reluctant to do that.

Do you know the part number for the crush gasket? Everywhere I search seems to only show the one for engine oil, not transmission. Thanks!

 

japan-parts.eu so you can look up the crush washer.

Torque on the trans and diff drain plugs is seldom given, but IIRC 36 ft-lbs.

Yes, HOT is after driving around, on level ground, and go through the gears staying in each one for 3 seconds (I do 3 seconds going back up as well), then check in Park with engine on. IME these dipsticks can read sorta wonky, so don't worry about trails going up on both edges with a dead spot in the middile. Read at the highest solid fill.

 

I would replace the crush washers. These things will leak a decent amount if the crush washer is reused and not tighten enough and leaks. I usually reuse them...for a few times. best to replace them if it's been awhile. Torque to spec using a torque wrench. It's far to easy to strip the pan bolt.

Read at the highest solid fill.

This is a must.

Before I got educated, I ran my transmissions low on fluid because I checked them when cold and not running. If the transmission is cold/off and you check it, it will show way over if it is properly filled. Most of my cars, it ran without complaint. Only one car would it randomly jump out of gear at freeway speeds when it tried to upshift. Issue went away after proper fluid levels.

 

also remember that aluminum strips easily when hot, so even though you're checking the levels 'hot' don't remove or replace the drain plug with the trans hot or you run the risk of having to use an oversized plug. that goes for oil pan drain plug and spark plugs too.
tony

 

Crush washers should be available at local parts store. Take yours to match size.

 

[Edit: ATF level will rise as fluid warms up]. So it’s unlikely the level is at the Cold range both when cold and after warmup. Unless it’s the smears on the dipstick throwing you off.

It’s very possible your mechanic used an impact wrench on the drain bolt? Just pick up a washer from the dealer. I reuse it by flipping it over. Lasts many changes.

I’d recommend measuring what you drain out. Try a new washer first.

If that doesn’t work pick up a new pan. strainer/gasket kit on rockauto and try it.

 

ATF level will drop if the engine is running. So it’s unlikely the level is at the Cold range both when cold and after warmup. Unless it’s the smears on the dipstick throwing you off.

Hmm, I think this might have been throwing me off. I thought the level was supposed to be lower when the car was running (this is what I was told/taught), BUT, on the dipstick, the HOT notches are above the COOL notches, suggesting that the level was supposed to be higher when hot? Didn't make sense to me.

 

Thanks to everyone who responded. I checked the fluid level properly before I left home yesterday and it seems fine. I wiped away the particles that I saw on the dipstick and they didn't reappear after a ~5 mile drive yesterday. I won't be home again for another 2 months or so. Any ideas what the particles I saw on the dipstick were, and do you think the particles are cause enough for concern that I can wait to change the fluid or should I have my mom take the car to the mechanic for a drain/fill while I'm away?

 

The pan needs to be dropped the magnets and filter checked, the oil examined to see what types of metals if any are there.

 

Just changed to trans fluid in my Solara (I used the ATF cooler lines to radiator to drain old fluid), and getting the level correct is a PITA.
Fresh start, Cold, idling in PARK, dipstick says it's overfilled.
Let it idle until HOT, or until cooling fans come on....for as long as you like, dipstick says it's overfilled.
Only after you drive it long enough to get thoroughly warm, then check ATF level while ON a level surface will you see a correct reading.


But, then again it's not as much a PITA as doing same thing w/o a dipstick on the newer transmissions.
There, effectively, you need a lift, or a good jack + 4 identical jackstands, to CHECK the ATF level.

 

This is why they created torque specifications. If you ignore them you do so at your own peril as you've abundantly illustrated here.