Are you checking the fluid with the engine running and the car on level ground?

 

Yes I checked the level with engine running on level ground. I read the Haynes Repair Manual and followed the procedures.

 

But should I release some of the fluid to bring it to the right level as soon as I get the chance?

Yes.

 

Thanks for the replies.
I will simply do another Drain/Fill, this time make sure the fluid level is right.
The ATF drained today just looked awfully dark. After the refill and a short drive, the fluid became rather dark again. I guess this calls a second drain anyway.

I got the car at 75K and now it's 130K. So the best case is that it has not been changed for 55K, worst case would be that the ATF has never been changed for 130K.

The transmission still runs fine, but I am really afraid that the damage has been done.

 

I did the same with mine and so far it's been working great.
My fluid had never been changed and was changed for the first time at 136k. The fluid that came out looked like really used engine oil; a really dark black colour.
200 miles later, and the fluid was really dark again, although i'm leaving it for a few more thousand, but your overfilling does justify another drain in my opinion so you might as well.

Also, I have a question for you... since my fluid had never been changed, I'm worried that the transmission might be going slightly bad... when the car shifts between first and second, only at full throttle, the shift is noticable, and kind of feels like a novice manual transmission driver. Does your car do the same?

 

I doubt there is any damage for a short period of time. However, did you also change out the differential fluid?

I'd be inclined to drop the pan and change out the strainer too. Tighten everything back with an in-lb torque wrench ~$12.99 on sale at HF (mailing list coupon).

 

^ I'd drop the pan and change out the strainer. This also allows you to wipe clean the magnets and pan to see what debris is on the bottom of the pan.

If there is an Advance Auto then use their coupon code to buy Mobil-1 ATF around $5.5/qt depending on total amount. Otherwise Walmart SuperTech Mercon-V should do fine too at <$4/qt.

The OEM dino fluid should be replaced every 15-30K miles (severe/normal service). But drains/refills every 10K is a good idea for about $12 each time.

 

If you're talking to me, when I did mine I dropped the pan and changed the filter as well, and there was so much sludge on the bottom of the pan it was unbelievable. It wasn't metal shavings or anything, just plain old sludge, and it took two rolls of paper towels to clean out. The magnets in mine were actually pretty clean, so at least there's not metal shavings going through the transmission.

@wc1972, if you have not changed the filter I would recommend doing that after being reminded of all the sludge at the bottom of my pan.

 

In an "unserviced for a very long time" transmission,a fluid change isn`t enough.I advise you drop the pan and empty it,then inspect it for excess wear in the form of sludge due to metal particles,damaged bands and/or clutches.The filter should be also changed.If there`s excess slip during certain changes,you have a bigger problem my friend.

 

Thank you all for the great advises. I know that what I did was really minimal. There are much more to do, like to drop the pan, change the strainer, and change the differential fluid. I am willing and capable of doing those of course, but the township where I lives don't allow these kinds of work in the parking lot (I live in an apartment). On the other hand, due to financial reasons, I don't want to hand it to a garage.
I will definitely have the transmission better serviced when I have the chance. The transmission has served me well so far, I don't drive much with full throttle, therefore I can't say that I noticed anything from the 1st to 2nd gear. I can't say that the shifts are butter smooth, but they did not do anything to draw my attention either.

 

The easiest way to get the transmission level, or any fluild level for that matter, is to use a Mity-Vac to suck out the excess. You can get some 1/4" and 3/8" plastic tubing at Lowes or Home depot for $2.50 for a 10 foot length. Cut off about 3 feet, stick one end into the transmission fill tube, and the other end to the Mity-Vac. Start pumping, and when the tube has a foot or so of fluid in it, remove the tube, drain it into a pan, check the level, and repeat until the level is correct.

If you don't have a Mity-Vac you can suck it out with your mouth. Just watch the fluid level carefully as it fills the tube. If you suck too hard and too long you will find out that transmission fluid tastes really bad. :lol:

Here's one place where you can get a Mity-Vac. It's good to have one of these in your toolbox. This is a good excuse to get one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html

Here's a cheaper knock off:

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit- 92474.html

.

 

Although I did filled 2.6 quarts of ATF as that is the capacity of the oil pan for 99 camry I4 AT, it still overfilled quite a bit. My guess is that I only drained the fluid by the plug, I did not drop the oil pan. Therefore there are some fluid left in the pan. This added to the 2.6 quarts filled exceeded the capacity.

when I drained, i did measure the fluid and it was 2.6qts. Next time when I did the drop pan and this time it measured 2.7 qts. So I don't think you overfilled the trans. If you drive it for approx 50 miles, it should come down (I also noticed when I did the trans fill, even though I measured it before, it showed an inch above the hot level. After driving 50 miles or so, it all leveled back to hot level now.)

 

You can get more or less than 2.6 qts. depending on how long you let it drain. Just drain a little out, and top it off. You can flush it by disconnecting the cooler line hose on the radiator and directing it into a pan. Start the engine and pour trans fluid in the trans until it comes out clean, then stop adding fluid. When it starts to spit air, shut it off, reconnect hose, add 2 qts. That will get you close enough to restart it and check the level and then top off. It will take running 2-3 gallons through it to get it clean.

 

With all the helpful information, I will do the following:


I will drive a lot next few days (around 200 miles), and then measure the ATF level right after that.
If it shows the transmission was not overfilled, I will drive another 800 miles before another drain&fill.
If it shows the transmission is indeed overfilled, I will siphon some out with plastic tubing (I just got 10" from Homedepot), drive another 800 miles before next drain/fill.
If the plastic tubing does not work well enough, I will drain&fill right away.

 

I just checked the ATF drained out, it was around 2.5 quarts. Therefore I probably did not overfill, on condition that the transmission was not overfilled originally.
Considering that the car was driven for at least 55K with that much ATF without issue, the original ATF was likely the right volumn.

 

Is the ATF level still high? If so I'd drop the pan and check for sludge.

 

Back from the 200 Mile trip.
Checked the transmission fluid level. Still higher by ~1 inch. Another issue is that there are some ATF leaked to the ground, leaving a circle of ~10cm diameter overnight. The leaking could be that I reused the washer. I got a new one from TOYOTA dealer for $3.26+Tax.
With the two things combined, I will do another drain and fill soon. Got two quarts of Castrol domestic Dex/Merc. With the half quart Supertech left from last time, they should be enough.

 

I'd be inclined to drop the pan. Also, are you sure the dipstick is the correct one?

 

I'd be inclined to drop the pan. Also, are you sure the dipstick is the correct one?

 

The dipstick is definitely the right one. I read Hyanes Manual and multiple posts online concerning ATF checking and maintenance. It is a bit tricky to measure the level though. When I check the level, one side (the under side?) of the stick showed much higher oil level than the other, is this normal?

 

Read the lower one. The other side is smear from the tube. Try inserting and pulling out the stick more quickly. Because I wouldn't want to reduce the fill any further. But if you haven't dropped the pan to inspect I would do it.

 

I just did the second round of drain and fill. I filled 2 quarts of fluid first, measured the level cold, then added another 0.2 quarts. Now it appears a bit over the cold/high mark. I will monitor the level in the future.

The way the fluid appears on the stick just don't inspire confidence. It is much less distinct than the engine oil measurement. The fluid is higher on the lower side than on the top side, and there are smear at higher positions on the stick.

Good news is that the color of the fluid look much redder, and the transmission shifts quite smooth.

 

I'm washing down the taste of the brown tranny fluid with a nice cheap red wine right now. Ha! Got the tubes but no vac