anything is posible. just make sure you get an air/fuel meter and a pyrometer. get good ones because these gauges can save your motor.

 

I'm finishing up this very conversion... you're right, theres not too much info on this. I know dcg9381 has a nice setup also.

It's pretty much the same as turboing any other 4 cyl. no special requirements. I took off the stock carb/manifold, use the EFI manifold, fabbed up a turbo header/full exhaust/all charge piping, intercooler mod and fitment behind/below the fr bumper, replaced the pistons with turbo pistons, new ARP rodbolts and head studs, LC cam, GT-2871R ball bearing turbo (watercooled), Megasquirt-n-spark engine management, 36-1 decoder wheel on crank pulley, Ford VR sensor and wasted spark coil. Greddy profec E01 boost controller.

To be honest, its alot of work!

Fire up in the next few days.... I've have waited over 5 months for this moment! hyeah:

 

let me know how it goes, i had a friend who bought all the stock turbo stuff and put it on his efi and he had all sorts of problems with it not running right and the turbo got red hot. im just worried about compression. 9:1 isnt much. mostly just worried about running it lean. which if i get a wideband and start out with big jets and slowly tune it down to where its around the 14:1 range ill be ok. i only want to run about 8 psi or so

 

Be careful!! 14:1 Air/Fuel is on the lean side of the safe range. That's more of a idle/cruising Air/fuel ratio. when you're in boost, you should be somewhere between Upper 10.x:1 range, and lower 12.x:1.

Also, low compression is a great thing for turbocharged vehicles. 9:1 is a perfect starting point! Fuel octane, air/fuel ratio's, and compression all play a part in getting to your acheivable safe boost levels before the engine starts pinging or pre-detonating.


here's an explanation from toyotaperformance.com

We have a hypothetical engine. It's a 2.0L, 4 valve per cylinder, 4 cylinder type with a 9.0 to 1 compression ratio and it's turbocharged. On the dyno, the motor puts out 200hp at 4psi boost with the timing at the stock setting of 35 degrees on 92 octane pump gas with an air/fuel ratio of 14 to 1. We retard the timing to 30 degrees and can now run 7psi and make 225hp before detonation occurs. Now we richen the mixture to 12 to 1 AFR and find we can get 8psi and 235 hp before detonation occurs. The last thing we can consider is to lower the compression ratio to 7 to1. Back on the dyno, we can now run 10psi with 33 degrees of timing with an AFR of 12 to 1 and we get 270 hp on the best pull.

~Shogun

 

i want to see a 22r/re in the 20-30lb boots class . that would be sweet. i heard the stock lower end is good for 500hp and the block 1000hp but i dont know if thats true or not.

 

I've read that when toysport used to race this engine, they could get 1200hp from the cast iron block, stock toysport pistons, & crankshaft.

It's definitely a strong engine!!

Right now, my 22rte is bouncing back and forth from 12psi to 6psi (depending on my mood and what other work i'm doing to my engine). Even at stock boost with the other mods i've done, this thing freaking hauls. At stock, it's not a beast, but it's definitely not slow by any means. so many people mention how their 22re is slow as a dog, and can't pass cars on the hwy.... my truck f*ing flies past shit. I'm almost always driving at 1/8th pedal, and having to downshift to so the engine can keep it's rpms up. It's a strange feeling. I also run 31's, and haul shit too. Engines, huge welders, loads of rocks/cinder blocks/wood...whatever. I think my truck runs better with about 400lbs of shit in the back, then when it's empty.

It wasn't always like that. It always had power, but after i added my intercooler, the colder air seems to make my whole engine run better. I know you're not supposed to get any noticeable power from an intercooler alone, but i seriously have noticed a change in it.

~Shogun

 

maybe you should look into water/meth injection. on a supercharged car it can lower the intake temp by half and you net a 20-30 percent power gain!

 

Google search:
"draw through turbo"
I ran a draw through supercharger for a while.. It worked OK.
There are limits to that setup, but it certainly would be an improvement over stock.
Watch compression and air/fuel tuning as mentioned.

You can blow through also, but it gets more complicated... Set reasonable boost limits.

 

blow through is carb after turbo and draw through is carb before turbo right?

 

blow through is carb after turbo and draw through is carb before turbo right?

Right... Here's a photo of my blow through boat:

 

Why not just belt driven supercharger kit from LC. Seems simpler.(If carb motor)

 

because the powergains are not comparable and you can build a superchager in your garage!

 

If you have a carbed motor like the thread starter has, you'll have to spend quite a bit more for all the 22re stuff to hang a turbo on, ecu, wiring, exhaust change, intercooler & all that goes with it to get what? 30-40 hp more, maybe? With comparable dollars & hassle it's worth it to just do SC. Simplicity rules IMO. & as always, to each his own. Got any links to that homemade SC?

 

srry i meant "cant" build one. lol if i could i would have done it. you dont have to have EFI to use a turbo. also the 22ret has 30-40hp over stock already. bigger turbo+ fuel+ intercooler= endless posiblities. im willing to bet you could get 200hp easily with a stock 22re.

 

Oh, yeah, right, turbo just on the exh manifold, fuel delivery same either 22r or 22re. RE just has bigger valves & head flows better & depending on yr of block might need non-domed pistons for less compression if turboing 22r? Been away from doing anything with my truck for years. Got caught up in newer stuff lately which is all injected. Mine's just 32/36 weber/header/exh/cam. Looking to freshen it up soon with 20/22r hybrid with either sidedrafts or SC or turbo even. Still in planning stages. Just starting to go back through all my documentation for all the options.

 

Why not just belt driven supercharger kit from LC. Seems simpler.(If carb motor)

I've run the belt driven LC SC. It is a bolt-on kind of deal. It's also almost $3k.
It's inefficient. We're talking for every 2 hp it makes, 1 is pulled off via belt drag.
Good for torque. Not good for HP.

Someone fab up an Eaton M62 (someone was working on this over on www.celica-gts.com) and you'll be in business...

RE just has bigger valves & head flows better

The valve sizes are the same on both heads.
Flow is the same on both heads.
Head volume is different (22RTE has lower compression).
The 22RE head is less prone to cracking as it has additional casting material.
22RTE head has a more heat resistant exhaust valve, but no advantage/disadvantage in terms of size. They interchange with minor compression differences as a result.