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Valve adjust 1999 4cyl. Camry

31K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  Digger1  
#1 ·
Valve adjust 1999 4cyl. Camry
To all

My 1999 Camry 4 cyl has 90,000 miles. As part of my own 90,000 mi check up, I checked the valve clearances. Most were at the high side of the tolerence (exhaust tolerence =.011 to.015 In, intake .007 to .o11).

Right now all of my intakes measure .010 to .011 and exhausts measure .015 to .016.

I want to do this job myself , so I bought a valve adjust tool from Matco (Matco part No MST 8825). It consists of a plier like tool used to compress the lifter and a thin steel finger like spacer tool used to hold the lifter down after it is compressed while one removes the shim for measuring.

Well I tried for hours and hours and could not get these tools to work. The plier tool compressed the lifter alright but left vey little room to manuveur the spacer tool into place. When I was lucky, I could just barely get the spacer tool wedged between the lifter bucket (the bucket holds the shim) and the cam casting surface.

Getting the spacer tool in place was always very difficult and every time I was able to get it in place, it soon moved or twisted letting the lifter "snap" back to decompress. I was not able to get one single shim out. Even when I was able to get the spacer tool on the bucket and it remained compresses, the shim would not budge. Clearaces were miserable, very little room to work. It was very difficult to see where the spacer tool should be and impossible to "feel" for its position. I finally gave up.

Could any of you please tell me where I am going wrong. I am an accomplished machinist and mechanic. It is not like I do not have skill. Letting this project get the best of me was VERY disappointing.

I have several questions:

Has anybody out there actually adjusted the valves on 99 Camry 4cyl (5SFE engine)? How? What tools did you use?

Am I using the right tools. I used Matco's MST8825.

If somehow I am able to change out shims for a valve adjust, at what end of the tolerence spread should I shoot for and why? Should I shoot for the most or the least setting distance between the shim and cam lobe? Why? I am prone to go for the least (intake .007-.011 and exhaust .011- .015) i.e go for .007 on intake and .011 on exhaust.

Note: Right now all of my intakes are at .010 or .011 and all my exhaust are at .015 or .016.

Would it not actually be quicker and easier to just remove the two cam shafts THEN measure the shims than to go through all the gyrations it seems are required to use the lifter compression pliers and long spacer?

Any instructions or suggestions would be appreciated.

Finally, since the valves on this car are starting to get a bit noisy, I am going to adjust them. I want to do it myself for two reasons: (a) I do not trust the dealer i.e. I do not want to remove the valve cover and check their work and take it back if not up to par and (b) I do not want to pay the dealer $300. I am retired and I have more time than money.

Thanks everyone in advance

Joe
 
#3 ·
The valve clearance is at the outside of the specifications, but still OK. Unless the valve chatter bothers you, you might leave them alone. All 5SFE engines make some noise.

As suggested by Mike Gerber, viewing the Toyota on-line service manual covering valve adjustment with this type of tool may be of great value.

Pulling out the cams is a time consuming job! Rechecking valve clearances will require reassembly. One or more valves could still be off after reassembly.

Check the links below to find out what others have done.

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/mr2_valve_clearance_adjustment.htm

http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_valve_adj.html

Get the tool manufactures phone number from their web site. Call them and determine if someone can run you through the shim removal/installation procedure using this tool.
 
#4 ·
Joe,

I feel your pain. I've done this job on my car (see signature for info on car) and I can say there is a definite learning curve in using the tool correctly.

Some comments that may help you and others who are attempting this job:

1. The tool I used had the Blue Point name (bought from a Snap-On dealer). It looks identical to the Matco tool mentioned by you.

2. Never, ever, let a cam lobe contact a lifter shoulder without a shim installed! Don't ask me how I know this. I broke small chips off of two exhaust lifter shoulders.:disappoin (Yes, I'm an idiot, but at least I admit it!)

3. After you've moved the lifter away from the cam lobe using the pliers-like tool, you have two sides (one in front of the camshaft, one behind the camshaft) you could insert the finger tool from. I had the best luck inserting it from the same side the tapered-jaw part of the plier-like tool was. I hope that makes sense. This is also how the FSM depicts this operation.

4. When I was ready to pull out a shim, I used two small screwdrivers to help force it out. One screwdriver was in front of the shim and the other was behind it. I had to drive a few shims out by GENTLY using a pin punch. I generally pulled them out w/ a small needle-nosed pliers when I could get a grip on them with said pliers.

5. Whenever I had a shim out, I measured it and entered the size into my log before I re-installed it.

I hope this helps! This job is not impossible, just tricky!