Could be the battery doesn't have enough juice to turn the starter. There have been battery problems with some.

 

got a jump starter from autozone, charged it overnight and started the car up today... thanks!

 

That's fine but doesn't explain the original problem. Either the battery is bad or something drained the battery. Either way, be on guard in the short term. Problems that just go away by themselves are usually just taking a break.

 

I had the identical issue happen to me about 2 months ago when my Venza was only 54 days old. Took it to the dealership and they found that the battery was weak/low and replaced it. It solved the problem perfectly.

 

you're so right!

so the car wouldn't start again and I have been jumping it every time I have to start the car. Took it to the dealership and they have had it since Saturday. Hopefully they'll find a problem after a diagnostic test.

Thanks!

 

take it to the dealer and insist it receives a new battery under warranty. its not uncommon, nothing is really wrong with the car you have a bad battery.

 

I picked it up yesterday from the dealership and they said it was just a bad battery and nothing else was wrong. Hopefully this doesn't happen again anytime soon... going to carry around the portable jump starter for a little bit just in case!

Thanks all!!

 

no power

DId the new battery help the issue? i've been having battery issues with my 2010 venza since i bought it brand new, but each time i take it back to the dealer they blow me off and explain the fast draining battery problem as user error. But now the battery will drain within 10 minutes if i turn the engine off but leave the radio on. does anyone have any suggestions to what the issue could be?

 

DId the new battery help the issue? i've been having battery issues with my 2010 venza since i bought it brand new, but each time i take it back to the dealer they blow me off and explain the fast draining battery problem as user error. But now the battery will drain within 10 minutes if i turn the engine off but leave the radio on. does anyone have any suggestions to what the issue could be?

I do...a cheap incompetent dealer that won't fix the problem...a new battery!

 

talk to the service manager, if he tells you the battery "passes" the test then tell him "warranty it under fail code LEAK" it will be approved by warranty and the dealer will not be charged back.
warranty fail code "leak" if the little printout says good battery,
if they fight you tell them you have a survey not filled out and are waiting to see how they handle this, guarantee if you do this you'll get the new warranty battery. if just out of warranty ask for "goodwill"
as a last resort call toyota consumer affairs and complain, hard.:thumbsup:

i spent the last 5 years as a Toyota service manager..............this is good info! (and nothing new for most)

 

Hi, when I had my battery issue I was quite concerned. My vehicle was manufactured in August, delivered in August and by the end of October of the same year the battery was only holding half its capacity. Within 3 months the thing had drained. They did replace it and I haven't had an issue since.

For you I would consider demanding a new battery from the existing dealership - blaming the user is unacceptable, trying a new dealership, lodging a complaint with Toyota corporate, or biting the bullet and buying an after market high load capacity battery.

 

Have had this issue with my 2011 Venza as well, same issue, buzzing sound and alert lights. Just means your car doesn't have enough battery to start, thank god I have a second car to jump start with.

This has happened three times to the car, the dealership claimed nothing was wrong each time, had to get the battery completely replaced 3 times... They tested for drain and said nothing was draining, might be the cheap batteries Toyota uses.

 

They tested for drain and said nothing was draining, might be the cheap batteries Toyota uses.

Either that or you are just making too many short trips (less than 5 miles) too often

 

My '07 Camry battery would die every time we went on vacation a week or so. Sitting in the driveway not being used the battery would drain. I would have to jump start it, take it for a little spin and it would be OK. This happened every year in the 6+ years I owned it. Otherwise it was reliable and never gave me any problems. That original battery was in the car a couple of months ago when i traded it in. One of my main peeves today is that car manufacturers have dropped installation of an amp gauge. We never really know the condition of our batteries till their low or dead!

 

Cheap battery is all I can think of, even the mechanic at the dealership said the batteries weren't the best, Toyota is getting cheap on batteries.

Never had this issue on my 07 Camry for the 4 years we owned it, yet the Venza had this issue :facepalm:

 

Replacing battery before it shows signs of failing

I was reading earlier this week, in an automobile club magazine, that a new battery life span is only 3 to 4 years and should be replaced as soon as you reach this point in its service life whether it's beginning to fail or not. If you push past this time frame, you begin to put added stress on other components within the engine, such as the alternator, and run the risk of having to replace it as well as the battery in the future. I like to take care of my vehicles and usually have them around 12 years. I've always seemed to have my batteries last me a lot longer (probably 7or 8 years) and only replaced them after they failed to start. But I do recall having to replace alternators in my past vehicles. Anyone have any technical information that supports that claim or can I run the battery dry, so to speak?

 

The battery in your car is a (sealed) Lead acid battery. Pre-70's one could open the lid and use a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of the acid mix and top it up. Modern batteries use a gel rather than a liquid and are sealed. They are not designed for large discharges as this damages the plates of lead in the battery.

Bottom line: No do not deep discharge the battery.

 

No start - loud buzzing, cluster flickering

I was programming the Homelink button, with ignition in Accessory/Position II (car not running), and it was not working so I decided to call it quits. With the ignition still in Accessory/Position II, I put my foot on the brake (indicator light on Start button turned from orange to green), and pushed the Start button as normal to start the car. It made a loud buzzing noise for a few seconds and all the while the gauge cluster flickered. I've tried starting it without being in any Accessory position - same thing, locked the doors and went in the house and came back out to unlock it and start it - same thing, and I've disconnected the negative terminal of the battery for 15 minutes and tried again - same thing.

When I went to unhook the battery I thought maybe I heard a relay clicking nearby but never heard it again. I've also been having this issue where sometimes when the ignition is in Accessory/Position II (car not running), I apply the e-brake and when I'm done doing whatever I'm doing the next time the car is started the e-brake light stays lit for a bit and eventually turns off. The e-brake light was lit tonight (but e-brake was not engaged) when I was programming the Homelink. Maybe the car is stuck in some kind of locked mode?

I've put the car in this ignition mode several times before to do various things and never had a problem. Though all the other times I've done that I pushed the Start button again to turn the car completely off, and then I'd push it again to start it. This time I started it while in Accessory/Position II, but the owners manual says you can start the car in any ignition mode. I had just driven the car an hour or two earlier and it was fine.

It seems like some kind of fluke, and that the car is locked in some kind of mode. Is this a Toyota thing? I am going through the owners manual and searching online in the meantime. I used my OBD2 scanner, but there stored or pending codes.

My wife needs the car Monday to go to work, could really use some help here, thanks.

 

Could the battery been drained low enough to not start the engine?

 

Maybe, but I wasn't trying to program the Homelink for that long. Seems like that would be one heck of a coincidence but I guess it's possible. I was driving the car just an hour or two before all this and I didn't notice anything indicative of a dying battery. I've tried several different times to start the car and every time the keyless works, the dash lights illuminate, the headlights work, etc. Seems like if the battery was dead none of that would be working, or it would be getting dimmer. And I thought there was just a clicking sound when trying to start a car with a dead battery, this sounds like more of an electronic buzzing. But then again I've never owned a car this new, so maybe changed over time...?

I guess it wouldn't hurt to try jumping the car as if the battery was dead via jumper cables from my other car?

 

Totally fine hooking up to another car battery whether yours are dead or not.

 

It started. Doesn't necessarily mean it's the battery, but I wouldn't think a 5yr old alternator would go out. It's late so I'll have to tinker with it more tomorrow. I'll probably get a new battery anyway just to ensure my wife can make it to work safely. I really thought it was something else, my Accord makes a clicking noise when the battery is dead, this buzzing noise is way different...

I need to find out if the dealer would cover a charging systems check and any needed parts replacement, if so I'll take it in next week to have it looked over/tested. Anyone know? In the meantime I'll dig out the paperwork hah.

 

just a guess - I'd estimate every toyota ever made has a 90% chance the battery has failed within 4-5 years. The old white Panasonic OE batteries were much better but now only seen on Japanese made "J" VIN cars. I'd say the chances of a bad alternator in a toyota are extremely low, I mean I doubt an alternator has anything to do with 99 of 100 no-crank "no power" scenarios. After purchasing a Autocraft AGM sealed battery at advance I'm having zero issues, no leaks, full power......ect.......
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...tery-group-size-24f-710-cca-24f-agm/10310750-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15000

 

Is dielectric grease the same thing as the terminal grease Autozone wanted to sell me for $5?

just a guess - I'd estimate every toyota ever made has a 90% chance the battery has failed within 4-5 years. The old white Panasonic OE batteries were much better but now only seen on Japanese made "J" VIN cars. I'd say the chances of a bad alternator in a toyota are extremely low, I mean I doubt an alternator has anything to do with 99 of 100 no-crank "no power" scenarios. After purchasing a Autocraft AGM sealed battery at advance I'm having zero issues, no leaks, full power......ect.......
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...tery-group-size-24f-710-cca-24f-agm/10310750-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15000

This is my first Toyota, so I appreciate hearing the background info. The bit about the Japanese batteries is interesting.


I bought a Duralast Gold battery since I have been satisfied with the one in my Accord.

You need a DVM. With the car not running the battery should be 11.5 to 12.5 volts. With the car running the voltage at the battery should be 14.5 volts. You can also look at the voltage when you try to start the car. If it shows 12.5 volts and then bottoms out when trying to start it is the battery. You could also put the DVM on amps and connect it between ground on the battery and the battery connector to see what the current draw is. With the car off the draw should be low. Do not try to start the car up while doing this.

I have a multimeter, I will tinker with that. Thanks.

I replaced mine last year with a similar AGM battery too.
https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/product...roducts/productDetail/0103420P/false/false/false?quantity=1&selectedSku=0102420

Theres another thread here about battery life.http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/152-venza-forum/663049-how-long-should-my-battery-last.html

Thanks for the info, sounds like 5 years is the average for the OEM battery. I am going to keep an eye on things and have them check the charging system at the next maintenance interval.

 

You need a DVM. With the car not running the battery should be 11.5 to 12.5 volts. With the car running the voltage at the battery should be 14.5 volts. You can also look at the voltage when you try to start the car. If it shows 12.5 volts and then bottoms out when trying to start it is the battery. You could also put the DVM on amps and connect it between ground on the battery and the battery connector to see what the current draw is. With the car off the draw should be low. Do not try to start the car up while doing this.

 

I replaced mine last year with a similar AGM battery too.
https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0103420P/false/false/false?quantity=1&selectedSku=0102420

Theres another thread here about battery life.http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/152-venza-forum/663049-how-long-should-my-battery-last.html

 

I was sitting in the Venza waiting for mom when it dawned on me. At least my 2014 Venza will turn stuff off if the battery gets below a certain voltage to try and allow you to start the car or to preserve the memory. If you were listening to the radio and then the car wouldn't start it sounds like a bad battery. I know that you should be able to take the car to a car parts place and they will hook a tester to your car and give you a print out of the results. Car running, car not running, with a load, without a load.