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VVT screen location - video

14K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  Wellibe  
#1 ·
#6 ·
Yes, I would definitely clean or replace them. They were pretty bad and I wish I did this the first time I heard the noise. It will take less than 30 mins for both and all you need is a wrench.

Amazingly, I‘m still driving the car. I cleaned the screens and added a bottle of engine honey after changing the oil and filter. It still has a steady knock under load which is coming from the top end. I really only need to drive it part time for about six weeks and then I’ll do an engine swap. But, it’s about 50% better than it was about a week ago. It was knocking so loud I thought it was going to lock up.

In the meantime, I picked up a used engine from an ‘06 Avalon. It has 53k miles and I was able to verify the oil change history with carfax and toyota. The block has the VIN plate on the side so I know it’s the engine from the car I saw. It looks amazing inside, clean as a whistle and same for the screens, they look brand new. I just ordered a water pump and will change that and the thermostat. I’ll also swap out the rear oil line, the front one is already metal. I’ll do plugs too. The timing cover doesn’t even have any seepage, actually the whole engine is dry as a bone and you can tell it wasn’t cleaned up so I might not so anything else except rollers and serp belt.

Way more than you asked but strong “yes“, I think changing these screens should be a regular maintenance item maybe every 50k.
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#9 ·
In the meantime, I picked up a used engine from an ‘06 Avalon. It has 53k miles and I was able to verify the oil change history with carfax and toyota. The block has the VIN plate on the side so I know it’s the engine from the car I saw. It looks amazing inside, clean as a whistle and same for the screens, they look brand new. I just ordered a water pump and will change that and the thermostat. I’ll also swap out the rear oil line, the front one is already metal. I’ll do plugs too. The timing cover doesn’t even have any seepage, actually the whole engine is dry as a bone and you can tell it wasn’t cleaned up so I might not so anything else except rollers and serp belt.

Way more than you asked but strong “yes“, I think changing these screens should be a regular maintenance item maybe every 50k.
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Nice!
 
#7 ·
Thank you for the info, I am going to do it. I listed to a couple of the videos of the V6 engine on YouTube and the top end noise for these vehicles is normal.
If you have a noise which changes under acceleration/load it is typically something deeper into the engine such as a bearing on the crank.
Engine honey is great for quieting crank bearings so you can get more use from your vehicle.
 
#10 ·
I’m a little late to this party but that is one of the first things that crossed my mind. Are the screens the root cause of startup noises because of restricted oil flow over a long period of time? Maybe a contributing factor?

In my case, the noise is coming from right around the oil line on the rear bank. If I don’t sell it as a running take out (full disclosure on my issue), I’ll do some tear down to find out what’s failing.
 
#11 ·
Would be interesting in knowing if the oil lines supply lubricating pressure for the cams and lifters or are they just for the VVT actuator?

If you remove the heads and find a port feeding oil into the head from the block it is likely they are just for the actuator. On line they are referred to as "VVT variable valve timing filters" in Rock Auto which is why I ask. If just for the actuator, not likely they will cause noise issues.

I looked on line and could not find a diagram showing the oil flow through the engine.
 
#13 ·
Some debris gets past the main filter such as when the bypass valve opens.
While most parts in the engine can tolerate this the solenoid valves which operate the VVT actuator can not. I had a Volvo which has the same screen set up on the VVT system.

As noted in this post debris was found in these filters.
 
#22 ·
Same here !
Pulled the front one on my 09 HL with 158 000 kms and it was clean (did have to pull the line back a little).
Did not bother with the rear one.
You may have mentioned it in another post, but could you also post here your oil change routine? How often do you do it, what oils and filters you use? Also, you've been the original owner since new?

This may be a very good way to inspect a used car. Bring a simple tool and loosen the banjo bolt to inspect the filter. Might give you very good idea of the condition of the engine.
 
#21 ·
Mine were spotless.... Dont know what some owners do to fill it with sludge,crud,wearmetal.
Must be a classroom on how to turn you car into an oil burning, sludging, vvt screen clogging, or knocking clatterring nightmare. I missed that class. I have had lemon engines that never turned into lemons...eternal wait for failure that never happened. Hard to buy a used vehicle these days.

Dont fall for negligent enviroweenie maintenance intervals and use good quality fluids and filters to avoid this so-called common issues.
 
#24 ·
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I have a couple of questions related to this topic.

I'm considering inspecting/cleaning my VVT screens. Is there any trick to getting the screens out after the bolt is removed, or do the screens just pull right out? And are there any gaskets, crush washers, o rings, etc. that need to be replaced when reassembling?
 
#25 ·
Take a look at this post and you'll see the screen filter is clipped to the end of the banjo bolt. Other than taking the the bolt out carefully, there's no trick in detaching the screen filter. There are two crush washers, one for the top and one for the bottom banjo bolts, you may want to get new one for the top even if you're just cleaning the filter, but not replacing the line.
 
#26 · (Edited)
The only issue I ran into was the screen in the bolt for the oil line which is closest to the heater core did not come out with the bolt.
It was loose inside the hole the bolt came out of. Since you do not have straight line access to use needle nose pliers, I twisted an easy out in by hand and pulled it out.

Since there was not enough room to insert the screen into the bolt before inserting it back into the engine, I put the screen into the hole then screwed the bolt in.

Screens are cheap. Replace instead of cleaning. Can not find the link for the bolt gaskets/seals you will need.