suggest replacing wires w/ NGK brand. yes, that boot is there for a reason.

 

How did you clean out the fuel filter?

 

Extra long needle nose pliers to reach those rubber boots.

Since the issue occured after you pulled the wires, I'm assuming the spark is arcing through the rubber during heavy acceleration.

Had it happen on both my 98 4-cyl Camry and v6 Avalon.

Might be worth closer inspection.
If it's arcing, you can find traces of where it melted a path through to ground around the plastic and rubber grommet.

 

Excellent suggestion my friend. I used brake cleaner after unbolting it. Let it dry but also it wasn't that dirty in the first place. Mess was still very clean it the color was supposed to be opaque esq in color. So I'm hoping that is the issue. I went and bought some cheap boots but they only had 2/3 that I needed and upon trying to install 1 I lost a rubber piece... They were just a buck 99 but they were non resistor not sure which plugs I have but regardless auto parts guy said it wouldn't matter. I mean why would it... Ts just rubber so it doesn't have to exactly take a charge and conduct it somewhere else... Shit I mean I could have probably made a better boot out of electrical tape. Might do that for the last one.... Anyways straying a bit. The problem seemed to be less persistent today prior to installation of the 1 boot out of 3. Hesitation only coming at prolonged idle I'd say 5+ minutes of just idling would produce a big enough loss of vacuum for that value to jump start the drive by wire sprocket. Also would hesitate very slighly when first accelerating from a stop maybe for 1 or 2 putt putts before gaining power. Scan reader and of course state misfire(s) also a specific one for misfire in cylinder 2. Also my o2 sensor heater circuit/performance (duh it's unplugged) as for everything else it looks normal? Psi stays around 4.3 or so idle and freeway speed loads it can get to 13 for map. Load fluctuates expectedly. Timing advance if I remember was 7-10 at idle and I swear on load it got to like 33 so I'm not sure if that's normal I'll have to look into it. Fuel system In OL so no trim readings

 

I would try some Chevron Techron for the hesitation. Not always the solution but in many cases part of the solution. It's nice to believe your fuel injector spray patters are close to identical, before grabbing the parts cannon and blasting you wallet at a problem.

 

I would sometimes try to accelerate from a stop and I would get a sputter lasting a few seconds. USually when I was trying to beat a car on a turn....after a couple sputters the engine would produce regular power and things would be business as usual. Now after it warms up every 5-10 seconds while idling in gear(R or D) I'll get the same sputter and rpms will drop by 100 or so.....however if I try and give it some extra gas it starts to sputter for a continuous few seconds until full power kicks back in. Even if I try and floor it through the sputter it actually seems to get worse. I'll speed up slowly and the times vary but it will eventually stat getting full power again and return to normal conditions until the next time I try to accelerate.

Does the engine have a TPS or does the drive-by-wire replace it? In any case the ECU looks for throttle position and the speed of opening to add extra fuel for acceleration. It's the equivalent of the old carburetor accelerator pump. Air travels faster than fuel, so some extra fuel on throttle opening prevents lean mixture.

If the TPS is not sending the opening throttle position (or slow to do so) then what you're experiencing is a possible cause.

If you could do a fuel trim measurement under acceleration you may find lean, until the system catches up. Also an oscilloscope would show gaps in the TPS signal.

 

I actually did put lucas in the other day so honestly that might be why it's improvement is steadily improving. Its cycling through... I did think about that though because with my Honda which is basically my hobby car. I took a 45 dollar fix and turned it into a 500+ dollar google/youtube goose chase of a parts cannon target

 

It does have a tps but the numbers haven't changed post issue. Stays at around 10.3% at idle and goes up respectively as I increase throttle. Also with the o2 sensors plugged in and CL on it does read lean but I have a exhaust leak which I believe is doing that. Why I run it unplugged so it runs OL otherwise I am getting like 5 miles a gallon haha... Maybe 10

 

What are your STFTs under acceleration?

 

As stated before my o2 sensor isn't plugged in so it runs in opened loop just going off the computers preset fuel napping. When it was plugged in my stft would be something crazy. 24 at idle and under acceleration would start at 0 andbafter a few seconds raise back up to 24 and just stay. Letting off the peddle had same results. Drop to 0 then go back up to 24. Ltft plugged in would eventually end up at 42 and stay. And of course with the o2 unplugged I just get a 0 reading since it isn't adjusting based on the cars needs rather what the car is programmed to think it needs out of the factory

That's under any acceleration. 1500 2500 boast same results

 

Well just to update you guys and not ghost it.... I sprayed all the plugs while in head plus the wires with carb cleaner while I was at a self wash and by the grace of val Hala the problem seems to have subsided ... About 40 miles into no hesitation so we'll see. Yup lied it's back

 

New new development. I went to pull the plug wires to pin point the cylinder and on 2 the one the scan tool pointed out I pulled the wire and as I'm pulling up the dppark from the wire ignites something me thinking it's possible residual vapors from the carb cleaner puts the wire go the tube again and boom flames shoot out the top. In assuming my spark plug may not be screwed on straight or right enough and the cocktail of air and fuel are being forced up from the compression. Could I be mistaken? Is this suppose to happen lol? Jk

 

You're better off to restore the engine to factory setup rather than attempt to hack your way to a solution.

 

Well hacking worked. I grabbed me some duct tape and after rescrewing down the spark plugs correctly I applied a few layers of that good old miracle worker duck tape to the end of the plug wires with about a 8th or a inch over hang. Plugged them back up and it is containing the spark and directing it right to the node in the plug. Hesitation gone. Of.course I know this is a bandaid but 4.99 over 53.99 plus a bunch of left over tape to use on my leg hairs and my gfs mustache is a win win

 

You had me until "duct tape." I might encourage new plugs and wires, still. The cost you lay out up front is relatively nominal, but will contribute to (1) improved performance; (2) enhanced gas mileage; and (3) greater safety and peace of mind.

For my 1997 Camry 2.2L LE, I've installed Denso Double Platinum spark plugs (about $7 apiece x 4), and NGK spark plug wires (about $28 when I bought them). I've also put in two new Denso ignition coils, which were about $50 apiece.

So, roughly $150 all told. If a car gains even 10% improved fuel economy as a result of jobs like these, the work more than pays for itself within a year.

That said, I know budgets can be tight during these days of COVID; just offering my two cents from one Toyota friend to another. I hope it goes well for you.

 

I wish it were duct tape but i settled for "duck" tape... I'm sure its close to the same minus heat rating?. I agree with you there. If I had the extra funds to purchase a nice new set of plugs I would have definitely done so. Even spark plugs ad injectors. Sadly my priorities are about as true as trump is politician. Tend to waste money on pointless things like the slot machines at the casino I mean the chances of doubling my money is a lot better than not going right? Regardless the duck tape actually is working very well. The heat has formed and molded itself to a nice hardened shell assuming due to the constant temperature curing the clue and plastic together.... No sarcasm. OF course i'm not recommending it but there is no signs of arcing or signs of the tape melting away and causing contamination to something very important. Its hard spending 50 bucks on something that works well but is just missing a little piece ruining the synergy of the entire machine. I think this bandage is a effective fix to this more than likely uncommon issue. that being said. I do completely agree with you.

P.s were the hell did you find wires for 28 even on amazon the lowest I saw when using my cars filter were 45+. I need to switch to denso plugs. I bought the car and it had double platinum but bosch...

P.s.s I am indifferent about today's political figure(s) as well as indifferent as to political parties... Dividing our country into this craziness. Sickening.

 

"When it was plugged in my stft would be something crazy. 24 at idle" I had the same problem and it turned out to be fouled injectors that the Techron Injector Cleaner cleared up. It will require doing again periodically to keep the injectors clean. If you are getting a code for Catalyst efficiency, and the second O2 sensor is running a very low voltage >.1v change the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the cat. It's sucking in air. Cheaper ($5) than replacing the cat (>$500). Mine leaked only on bank 2, the front one. If the cat is bad, the back O2 sensor voltage will vary similar to the front sensor. The plug wire issue, if it was a one time thing caused by the spray and the tape worked, great; but it will eventually require repair. Duck tape won't last as long as the silicone boot.

 

That should be needless to say about "duck" tape I didn't splurge on actual duct tape. ( Yes there is a difference) I've ran lucas only. I'll have to try but I think the major issue is my a/f sensor. It is a aftermarket off brand not denso... When plugged and in CL system volts on upstream hovered around 2.7-3.118
. I believe it was meant for downstream... But the headline on amazon said "upstream/downstream" which is rather confusing. Clips were different and fit downstream when I got it so I just cut the connection and spliced it. My downstream post cat fluctuates between 0.10 to 0.9xx depending on load. So it seems healthy when working right (or so I think) it hovers at 0.450-0.480. I was thinking it was due to a vacuum leak but none found with the assistance of carb cleaner. The only codes I currently get are obviously the unplugged a/f sensor and o2 heater circuit. Need to put some wire tape around it. I think it's getting wet. Also I get system lean. Regardless I always get the same results with stft at steady or idle gas it sits around 24.x and ltft will eventually graduate to 42.xx with millisecond fluctuations on acceleration to 0 and back to 24/42

 

Try reinstalling the original O2 sensor, I doubt it was bad. The upstream is different from the downstream in design. One of them actually is open to outside air through the wire. The downstream should hover around 0.8v. The upstream control the air fuel ratio fuel trims, and the downstream is just to monitor catalyst efficiency. The downstream around 0.45v is just another indication of not enough fuel which could easily be injectors. If the downstream is hovering at 0.10 (very lean fuel, it is actually measuring the high oxygen content) that indicates the gasket at the front of the cat is leaking and allowing extra air to be sucked in affecting the downstream sensor. Does not seem to be your problem, though. You will not find it with carb cleaner or visual inspection. Your attempts with the carb cleaner found no vacuum leak, so if your fuel pressure is good, and the fuel pressure regulator is good then the lean mixture is most likely clogged injectors. The computer does not know what your fuel pressure is. You should notice improvement with injector cleaner over time. I actually pulled my injectors ( a royal pain) and tested and cleaned them with a 9 volt battery and a carb cleaner spray can that I rigged up. I wish I had started with the Techron, but live and learn.

 

Oh I should have added... Thank God for this gen solara ground clearance.... But I ran over a rogue semi truck tire on the freeway. It was pretty torn up so it was ripped to shreads but I hit a pretty large piece... It caught my flex pipe joint connecting the flex pipe and cat and snapped it directly in half. I just shoved an adapter in there it's fairly tight but nothing close to air tight. I need to wrap it in some high temp roll. Everyone I've done up to 800degree rating has burned to dust within the first few days. Just haven't had time to get something better and the adapter dampens the sound enough to make it sound fairly normal. Also since I don't have my a/f sensor plugged in I'm running in OL so the o2 sensors aren't doing much except providing a tangible number to tell me something might be wrong but not actually affect my gas mileage.