40k miles is enough to cause significant wear to the rotors, and it is not all that uncommon for the factory-fresh surfaces to wear and yield unevenly, causing the noted variation of thickness.

This is as easy to correct as a standard brake job, with the rotors being cut and the perfectly flat surfaces thus restored.
Also, since the metal in the rotor has by now been thoroughly "seasoned" or "stress-relieved" from extended use and heating, the problem is now very unlikely to re-surface (pun intended).

I went through this with my Isuzu truck at only 15k miles, and (since the dealer who might warranty it was quite far out of town) I removed the front rotors myself and had them cut, then re-installed them with the original pads.
I now have 171k miles on that stick-shifted and mostly highway-driven truck, and the original pads and rotors have remained smooth ever since, all of 30 years later.

 

2012 Camry has 127K on it, on my second set of Toyota pads with about 75K on them. Do about 50% highway driving with some high speed panic stops.

Getting close to be replaced but never had a shake issue with either set. Front rotors were turned between sets and backs were replaced with good quality aftermarket.

Did have problems on both my Camry and Highlander with improper machining of the bracket the pads fit in causing the pads to stick and drag. Excessive drag can cause heat and warp rotors. Solution is grind metal tabs on pads so they slide free in the brackets.

Will use OEM pads next time as well.

 

The driver causes it by driving like an idiot, which seems to be considered normal.

Over the years, Toyota has changed brake pad PN's numerous. Maybe they are having an issue with their lowest bid suppliers?

1. Toyota rotors are excellent quality. I have no problem recommending them even though I use Bosch as my favorite rotor. EBC Napa Raybestos Wagner are also excellent
2. I dont support this as an issue
3. Too common at every dealer and tire shop. Lazy techs dont use torque wrenches.
4. Common on brake jobs as many dont clean hubs or even check runout of new rotors.
5. See #2

The tech causes issues because they have no work ethic or attention to detail

 

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like (for the most part) that you guys all believe that this issue isn’t unique to Toyota.

Maybe this was just a case of confirmation bias on my part. I searched “Toyota brake shudder” and found many instances. But I guess I could have also searched “X (brand)” coupled with “brake shudder” and found just as many instances.

For whatever reason, I thought brake shudder on OEM Factory Toyota Brakes was more prevalent than the occurrence on other vehicle manufacturers.

Again, thanks for the help!

 

I know the pad sticking in the bracket is a problem because it happened on two of my Toyota vehicles. When I took the pads out one of the two pads was worn at an angle and it was stuck in the bracket. There are other people in this forum who said had the same problem with the rear caliper..

However I can not tell you for sure if it would cause brake shudder because I did not experience this.
Cleaning hubs and rotor mounting surfaces along with using proper torque on the lug nuts is a must.

I use the high end Raybestos rotors (not the cheaper ones). Since I have 127K on my front Toyota rotors with no problems (on second set of pads) I would recommend them. Probably worn and can not be turned a second time.

Never turn a solid rotor (as used on the rear). Many of them are laminated steel.