I would definitely make sure your "Viper" guy goes over that installation/removal.... I bet some wires are broken, grounds not clean or grounded.... This is why I would NEVER install an aftermarket remote starter.

MPG going down in carwash is normal. Not odd at all if you have a clue on what MPG is, and what a running vehicle is doing in a car wash

 

I think the OP has been reading too many stories of my toyota did 500000 miles and all I ever did to it was change the tires and the oil LOL.
Most cars without inherent problems from the factory will do 60000 miles without any issues aside from scheduled maintenance, brakes and tires etc, but beyond that wear and tear issues start to occur.60000 miles over 5 yrs with a lot of stop start city driving is different to 60000 miles in a year of highway driving, the first example may result in the car not going much over 100000 miles and the 2nd highway example may reach 500000 miles, how is the car driven, how well is it maintained, is it garaged or just left out on the street etc . If you reset your trip meter and drive 2 miles down the road to the car wash and idle for 10 minutes yes the mpg will fluctuate wildly you only have 15 minutes of data.

 

So you are saying he possibly could’ve screwed up some wires and that’s what’s causing the lights not to work in auto and no beeping from the back up camera? I don’t think it has anything to do with the codes though because it’s bedn installed for three years

 

My apologies for the joke, it's serious matter. I just couldn't hold myself, when you mentioned Self Destruct button

 

The car is spotless and look excellent. We’ve done everything maintenance wise from start to present. The car is left outside and we do live in the Northeast. My wife just started working in the city over the summer and has about a 25 total round trip. I guess the poor gas mileage could be because of the traffic ect... I just want to get whatever is going on straightened out ASAP

 

BP201...curious...when tech looked at your HL, any idea how long before u got report ? Reason I ask, P2610 could require extensive testing. You can goog "Toyota diagnostic trouble codes P1604 & P2610" showing what could cause those dtc's. No, I don't know why. :dunno:

 

The first and only time I took it in for this they had it for about 45 minutes. He told me that they didn’t get to involved apparently because Toyota will not authorize having any warranty work done like having the EMC replaced unless the remote starter is taken out. I definitely have a feeling the KID at the authorized award winning place I got the Viper removed today must of crossed or not connected something properly because everything was working fine until tonight. When it rains it pours

 

The multiple electrical issues certainly point to a wiring issue of some kind.
The car is left outside, so maybe mice got in looking for a warm place to sleep?

I don't even pay any attention to the trip computer/MPG screens. The only way to truly measure MPG is by collecting odo readings when you fill up the tank along with how many gallons you pumped in. I wouldn't lose sleep if the trip computer said 12 MPG, nor would I brag if it said 35 MPG.

 

There is a tsb on this DTC P2610. Here is the number make sure they checked to see if your ecm was updated to current firmware. T-SB-0074-16

 

Ty. I’m guessing the code is going to come back and I’ll definitely print this out and take it in with me

 

I definitely have a gut feeling of electrical short @ when they removed the starter...sucks!

 

Is that a major problem or should they (car starter guys) be able to figure it out and fix it fairly easy. A real young kid at the shop did it for nothing and I gave $10 and told him thanks a lot. I guess one of the more experienced guys will have take a look at it when I bring it back

 

I said yes a Viper and it was put in the first week we bought the vehicle.

These things are nearly always installed with 3M (or off-brand) quick-taps.
These things are horrible for reliability, and it's not a matter of if, but WHEN they will fail.
Removing the system may or may not resolve the problem, particularly given that some wires need to be cut... the quality of work when removing the system is just as important as the quality of work when installing it.... and you are not going to get quality work from the kid working at the alarm shop.

 

A quality shop will solder and tape their installation, that's how I did it years ago.

 

So much for letting after market people wire additional controls. No telling if it affected any computer controls or the power he supplied it with caused a problem with the initial feed. Shops were installing after market cruise controls that went goofy some causing accidents or not releasing in winter condition. No sir, the only after market person that works on our HL is me and only for oil / fluid changes.

* On another note I am told the size of the wires and the resistance is crucial to additional components including the computer controls. Don't know if 100% true, don't want to find out..

 

As to the “ Auto headlights not working... “ the on/off switch is on the panel that is removed to add/remove Remote starters. Maybe some other switch’s have been disconnected/pulled off.

 

Most cars without inherent problems from the factory will do 60000 miles without any issues aside from scheduled maintenance, brakes and tires etc, but beyond that wear and tear issues start to occur.60000 miles over 5 yrs with a lot of stop start city driving is different to 60000 miles in a year of highway driving,

I suggest you re-check your facts. That is totally WRONG. Most car issues start at 100k+ miles. Maybe you bought some lemons. You must be listening to the hype of the extended warranty salesman.


A car is it's MOST reliable from about 20k miles through 100k+ miles. On some makes/models it's over 150k miles. Maybe 40 years 60k was the norm for vehicles to start having issues, but not now. We haven't owned a vehicle since my 84 GMC S-15 pickup that had any problems (beyond normal maintenance) until well past 120k miles. My wifes 96 Accord first REPAIR was about 240k miles - $4 to replace a heater knob.

 

I’m happy to say that the car starter place has my car back to factory and everything is working properly. Apparently the issue was the auto headlights need to be interrupted. He said this is a Toyota thing. He had to undo and reconnect two wires and everything is good. On most all other cars what the young kid did by just disconnecting the module everything would’ve went back to factory. Now it’s a wait and see game until the check engine light and Check AWD System light comes on. Until then the wife has no car starter.
I guess I’ll be nice and let her take my month old
F-150 4x4 Super Crew until we get this issue
resolved. I actually really enjoy driving the Highlander.

 

This is why i went out of my way to only look at auto start options that are factory function plug and play w/ no cutting. I always would try and avoid cutting any factory wiring if and when possible especially under the dash.

 

Wish I had seen this earlier. My 2015 had the check engine light and the AWD light and it turned out to be the gas cap wasn't tightened after refueling.