For the dogbone mount, the part number from ToyoDIY is 12363-03070, from Toyota's official online website is 12363-74130. Which one is the preferred choice? Neither is cheap. The part number from ToyoDIY is more expensive. At $70 a piece, it dampens my enthuism significantly. What would you do with these mounts? OEM is crazy expensive now. Seems more so than before. Replacing all four with OEM parts cost $700 just in parts. My car can be sold for about $1500. Crying.

 

Warning: Do not stand in front of car when wife doing torque test!!!

 

In front or behind the car. Parking brakes fully applied. Test only in a safe, clear area without pedestrians too!

 

Just put a Anchor dogbone on a week ago from RockAuto for $7-8 and it seems fine so far.

 

The whole package from 1AAuto is only $115. I watched a lot of videos from them on YouTube and liked their channel a lot. If the reviews are true, seems to be an okay bet. What do you guys think?

2001 Toyota Camry L4 2.2L Automatic Transmission US Built Models 4 Piece Engine & Transmission Mount Kit TRQ MTA32794

Order your 4 Piece Engine & Transmission Mount Kit - today at 1AAuto.com. Up To 50% Off Prices EveryDay! Get Fast & Free Shipping On Premium Quality Parts. Shop Now & Save!

www.1aauto.com

 

Got all 4 for under $60 all Anchor brand for V6 at RockAuto other three not installed yet. They all appear fine in appearance.

I posted a quick tip on dogbone replacement a week ago.

More important is a full excellent in depth DIY Sticky in the DIY maintenance section on the V6 that was very in depth that another forum member dis awhile back. I recommend looking at the Sticky before purchasing mounts and before installing. Be warned that the rear can be a complete bastard from all that I have read not for everyone but for most attempting. Seems to depend if you passenger axle comes out easy and most dont perhaps due to rust. Also depends if you buy the complete rear unit or just try to remove the rubber mount only and press the new one in.

 

Its twice the price of RA for Anchor. What brand are they?
Also there is the fifth one on a V6. The trans shift one In front drivers side by radiator. I forgot that one when ordering. No idea if they ever go bad or not. Its like a mini strut or similar.

 

Maybe in V6 models, the axle needs to come out. For I4 models, it doesn't have to. All the aftermarket ones are a whole unit. And the OEM one for I4 is also one unit.

 

Also RA always has 5% off coupon do not purchase without it.

 

Sorry thought you had a V6. Got mixed up. You are correct. May be even cheaper than $60 for all 4 with RA. Use 5% and factor shipping cost both places.

 

If it ain't broke leave it TF alone. Worry is contagious, but repair is not.

 

Maybe I will have to that. Unwillingly, though.

It is interesting that Anchor is sponsoring some videos of Eric The Car Guy. Does that mean ETCG kinda believe its products are not too bad?

 

if the engine is not moving much, and if there are not other issues (like premature exhaust down pipe wear, or usual noise while in gear stopped at lights), then the mounts are probably still fine, no need to change anything

 

Thanks. I am thinking about using some window sealant to fill up the void in the old OEM dog-bone mount. This way, there is less room for the rubber parts to move around and probably will extend its life a bit? Not trying to do a 'performance upgrade'. Just want to extend its life a bit longer since i can see the tear in the rubber now.

On a side note, for a different car, is it possible that when a side engine mount to fail so that one side will tilt up more than the other side. Therefore, the side higher up in the air will pull on the CV joints and stretch it to the extent that it will exert force on the inner CV joint and pull the boot off? Another consequence is the extended joint will allow outer CV joint to achieve excessive CV joint angle so that some noise will be made when turning the steering wheel to the limit and accelerate at the same time?

 

the regular mounts usually are not filled all the way with rubber. when i got my mount replaced, i fill all the spot with silicon and let it cured for 24 hours. there's a little stiffer but not rattle ur bone out like poly( i did poly mount for experimental reason also), it helps with getting rid off wheel hoop and imporve acceleration. also improve the durability of the mounts.

 

May I ask which silicone adhesive you used?

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I just did all except the rear....... I did the test you did and also did not get massive amounts of movement....but mine were worn.,.....see below


I got some off of Amazon. All for like $70??



The bad thing was that the rear one was not correct...the toyota mount sits on the engine bracket...the aftermarket one does not have provisions for it to sit well on the engine bracket. as the base where the bracket sits is too wide....After removing the old rear mount though I checked it and it seemed perfectly fine so I threw that one back in. Oreilly appears to have a good aftermarket one that appears to fit but its $70 for the ONE....and Im lazy to do it when the old one seems fine lol



The Trans one required some grinding on the bolt holes to line up..., the front fit perfect. the dog bone slid in perfect as well. I was able to get a partial refund for he rear mount.
Basically, the experience I had with aftermarket ones is the same with any aftermarket mount Ive replaced in any vehicle. They work and might need some tweeking.... Car vibrates less etc... im ot sure if OEM would dampen more vibrations but $70 vs $700..........


I probably could have left them all but The FRONT mount was the worst for mine though... the only way to check it was to remove the top bolt, jack the motor up and see if there was play where the bolt screws into the mount....... there was a ton but the test above did not show it.....


.... .When accelerating from a stop I could also feel a slight "shift": as if something were sliding in the trunk... it was the mount allowing the motor to move back upon acceleration.... thats al lgone now.



The HARDEST part of this job wil lbe


1. Removing that damn nut on the top od the rear mount
2. Any grinding you need to do on the mounts to line up correctly.
3. Removing the front lower metal pan that covers the front mounts mounting bolts.... not hard.. .but theres like 10?????bolts holding the pan in place and im lazy lol also some might be rusted....

 

There are scores of threads on this very forum, and there is one theme in common: buy OEM mounts. Aftermarket mounts are junk, especially the front and rear ones, period.

OEM rear mount is fluid filled, and does majority of the work, especially when it comes to engine vibration at idle. Aftermarket ones are all solid rubber and will transmit more vibration.

Both front and rear are covered with boots, you will not be able to do a visual inspection on them. At minimum, buy these OEM.

I have replaced my worn out OEM rear mount with "new" aftermarket one and vibration got worse. New OEM mount made a night and day difference. Multiple threads reporting similar findings.

If you really need to pinch pennies, try your luck with aftermarket trans mount and torque bar. At least they're easy to change and are not as critical as front and rear.

 

On a side note........

Top nut size for rear is a 17mm.... the front top bolt is also a 17mm as i recall.... the rest are all 14 i believe.


Air tools are your friend for this job but so is a breaker bar for that top bolt / nut. cause I think Toyota used a Gorilla to tighten down those nuts / bolts at the factory....

 

You could buy 2-3 aftermarket dogbone mounts off RA for what a tube of good quality 3M window sealant costs.

 

That's true.

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Nothing wrong w/ wanting to swap out all the mounts, definitely PM (Preventative Maintenance) for sure.

The problem w/ aftermarket mounts is quality and fitment.
Low cost-yes.
Fits-many horror stories w/ aftermarket.
Longeveity-no where near as long as OEM

 

If the Dog Bone mount has been changed regularly then it will be putting less strain on the lower main mounts. For the low cost of the Dog Bone it is a no brainer to replace whenever you see the wear in those hollow pockets. They are all designed to flex but when this one wears out the back and forth from Reverse to Drive it allows more play in the back and forth movement of the engine and trans. This leads to more wear on the expensive and hard to replace mounts.

Just start with Dog Bone mount and if it drives fine and doesn't feel like the motor and trans are moving at the shift points then the originals could be fine. I have 2 gen 4s 2.2 autos, both have 240,000 on them one has decent mounts, its shifting is solid and the other is mushy at the shift point. It needs mounts, cv axles, and control arm bushings.

 

Why do you want to remove original rubber? Without it, how are you going to locate the hole in the center? I was thinking just pour the PU inside and let it weld with existing rubber.

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I am afraid that the hole might be misaligned by a little.

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all u have to do is get a piece of cardboard, put ur mount on top of it, get some sharpie,draw around ur mount, use some sort of metal tube of the same size of the hole, stick it through, and there go ur template. i did it, it was quite easy.

Thanks HD has lots of silicone. Do you have the link for the one you used?

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i believe i used the brand 3M, someone recommended to me, and it works very well so far, been 3 years and no problem or cracks.

 

If your mount is worn or cracked the hole might be off a little so I would not worry too much about getting the hole exact. Sure it would be nice but it may not be exact. Depends on how worn or cracked the mount rubber is. Getting it close is going to be a lot better than having it float around like on a broken mount. The one I removed looked worse after removal than before. Seems like pictures I have seen show the same. Just get the hole close.

 

Im thinking that the mount is not solid for a reason...probasbly for vibration dampening.


But.........if you're going to buy / spend al lthat money and do all that work, buy a new aftermarket one. and start with that...

 

the silicone tube from homedepo cost like 10$, and i didn't buy new mount i just use the existing mount and filled it with silicone. if u want to buy after market one cost u around 250 for just 2 mounts, the whole set of 4 would be at least 400. i used 2 tube of silicone for under 30$.

 

filling cracks in old, cracked rubber mounts sounds like it could be worth a try, as a low budget effort

can't imagine bothering to replace ALL of the rubber with silicone, though, sounds like way too much effort for way too much unknown, especially when replacing the rubber insert with OEM (or aftermarket) is so cheap and easy

 

the rear mount is always the most difficult one, everything is in the way, ur hand and arm is gonna get scrapped and cut that is for sure.

It actually comes off easy once the top nut is loose... just slides right out.