I've only used N in automatics, when the car breaks down on the road and needs to be pushed off to the side or towed.

 

Maybe if your cruise control unit fail, or your accelerator pedal is stuck, neutral will save your life lol

 

Seriously, this when Toyota was having those sudden acceleration deaths.

 

Thanks for your replies. Is "N" alternate to break?

Does frequent "N" usage hurt transmission?

 

My main reason for shifting to "N" on my 1992 Camry XLE 4 Cylinder Automatic is when I need to turn ON my A/C and I am traveling at or above 2,200 RPMs.

I just replaced my A/C compressor about one year ago on this 465,000+ mile Camry without any Engine Rebuilt history and believe it or not my original compressor still worked but the internal pistons where all worn.

I try to turn ON the ENGINE without the compressor and I turn OFF the Compressor before turning OFF the ENGINE.

While in motion, I "Carefully" shift into "N" while releasing the Throttle to allow the A/C Compressor to engage without such high RPMs.

Another time I do place the Transmission Selector in "N" is when the Engine doesn't have the A/C running and ENGINE RPMs fall to the point of feeling the Steering Wheel vibration at a light and the light is taking too long.

Hope this helps.:laugh:

Here is my Camry getting a recent E-Vac and Recharge!

 

When doing a "Neutral Drop".

 

Thanks for your replies and exposing your 465K miles success story. It is impressive. :laugh:

If you shift to "N", when you were traveling at or above 2,200 RPMs, will RPM comes down.

Is it safe to put it in "N" on such RPM level? Does it hurt the Transmission?

I posted another related to camry 1999, Here the url

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ation-1992-1996-1997-2001/967097-does-timing-jump-cause-engine-replacement.html

Please review and share your thoughts.

I find "Neutral Drop" cause damage to transmission. Why/where did you do it?

Thanks for sharing.

 

RPM should go down when shifting to Neutral.

Neutral drop is for high-school kids and show-offs - it can damage the transmission and other things, but it impresses (some) girls - which is more important to them.

Bigger issue is Neutral is one step away from Reverse. On a modern car it won't matter, but on a 2007 or older, if you are going 55 down the highway, intend to shift to N and accidentally keep going to R - you just trashed the transmission.

Personally - I only shift to N if I am stopped at a light and want to smooth out the engine vibrations.

 

You can move your selector lever forward from L to 2 to D to N and backward from R to N to D without holding the lock release button, so there's no risk going into Reverse (or Park)

 

I may or may not do a lot of neutral coasting. Shifting into N won't harm anything, but going back to D warrants some kind of attempt to rev-match.

 

I was joking when I put "Neutral Drop".


It was the first thing that came to mind when I read the question.


Been along time since I did any sort of neutral drop. I probably have done a milder version when stuck bad in the snow rocking back and forth or just trying to get un-stuck.

 

guapoman2000

You have a good story to share about your 1992 Camry XLE 4 Cylinder Automatic with 465,000+ mile Camry without any Engine Rebuilt history.

How did you get there?

Do mind sharing your driving tips?

What did help to achieve this?

How did you mange your transmission?

Thanks for your sharing.

 

Hello!:laugh:

To me there is really nothing out of the ordinary except I see Camry's that are just in their prime at the Junk Yard with lots of life had it been that the owners would have taken better care of them.

You see, my Camry is a little over 22 years old so, that comes out to less than 22,000 miles per year. Had I not joined a Mass Transportation Group (VAN POOL VEHICLE), I do believe that my Camry would be reaching almost one (1) million miles by now.:surprise:

I love the design of the Engine as these 2.2 Liter work horses are Non-Interfering such that I can just drive until the Timing Belt decides to skip or the tensioner decides to give way and allow the timing belt to go. It has happened many times and I have the Tow Truck number on speed Dial. The ONLY exception to this "is" the Water Pump issues such that you would need to perform a Timing Belt before it reaches the point as I just described above. This is why I flush the Cooling system once a year (late February) to get it ready for the Hot Summer months.

If you are talking about NO RE-BUILT topic then, I believe that changing the Engine Oil & Filter every 3,500 miles is the trick assuming Natural Oil (non-Synthetic). Additionally, using High octane Gasoline with blended cleaners will do a few things for your Engine such as keeping the Injectors clean and will keep your Oil from breaking down since the higher octane will perform better and not cause your injectors from getting ruined such carbon or unburned deposits of gasoline reach your Engine Oil.

From other cars that I have owned (many), the typical car killer list is:

1). Driving very short trips
2) Not allowing the Engine to warm up.
3) Not allowing the Transmission to warm up before slapping it in gear.
4). Bad fuel injectors (leaking)
5). Bad spark plugs, wires, Ignition System.
6). Bad O2 sensors telling the car to run rich.
7). Not changing Engine Oil & Filter depending on the use of vehicle.
8). Not flushing Cooling System at its routine schedule.
9). Not performing Automatic Transmission flush at its routine schedule.

I would say that the best is to keep an eye on all fluids, especially the Engine OIL Level and Condition. I say condition because there could be a possibility that Fuel injectors could start leaking and now your Engine Oil is mixed with fuel and that is not good for the Engine if you continue to drive without noticing.

Here is the result of keeping your Engine Oil up to date!

Picture taken from this post:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-273.html#post4847113

It is amazing that at 465,000 miles my Camry has the original Rack & Pinion, Fuel Injectors and complete Exhaust System (with the exception of a recently replaced Oxygen Sensor). Original Alternator reached 265,500 miles, the factory A/C Compressor was still working (internal pistons were just too worn) and was replaced right at 300,000 miles.

I have performed the Automatic Transmission Flush about 65,000 miles ago and it is coming time to do it again. I take it to a shop with a modern flush machine and tell the manager to carefully set the machine at the lowest setting and DO NOT inject any cleaners whatsoever! I have done the "drop the Pan" but, you just don't get all of the Fluid out as most of the dirty fluid stays in the Torque Converter and other areas that do not get at the bottom.

My Driving habits are pretty much like an Old Lady....not in a hurry to get going and if I see a RED Light up ahead, I just let go of the accelerator and allow the Camry to coast all the way to the line! If anyone is in a hurry to reach the RED light they can go around me.> I try to avoid high speed U-Turns to save on the CV assemblies and take em very slow or I just avoid them if I can do several RIGHT turns instead and venture to see the nice area that I am in and enjoy the scenery!0

I have replaced the entire rear suspension by purchasing a Kits such as:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16097166548...m/160971665484?item=160971665484&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18107673645...m/181076736459?item=181076736459&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18107674522...m/181076745221?item=181076745221&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

You can read all about it at:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-306.html#post7180585

and now my Camry goes down the road super quiet and firm like new.:grin:

Oh, Cooling System is very important in Central Florida as temperatures / Humid conditions can and will KILL any vehicle that doesn't have a sound Cooling System and as an example here is a recent Radiator Change out on my 5th Radiator for my Camry:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-307.html#post7471522

Another big tip is to maintain a clean Engine and change out the Engine Valve Cover Gasket and use premium spark plugs such as NGK brand and don't forget the PVC valve and use a new rubber grommet!:wink:


More:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-251.html#post4015682

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-251.html#post4012198

Timing Belt / Water Pump / Seals / etc.....:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-253.html#post4033060

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-253.html#post4033581

Engine Timing:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...992-1996-1997-2001/338662-what-did-you-do-your-camry-today-273.html#post4847105

I hope that I have answered your questions.:nerd:

 

guapoman2000

Thanks for your success story details. I liked your approach.

I love the design of the Engine as these 2.2 Liter work horses are Non-Interfering such that I can just drive until the Timing Belt decides to skip or the tensioner decides to give way and allow the timing belt to go. It has happened many times and I have the Tow Truck number on speed Dial. The ONLY exception to this "is" the Water Pump issues such that you would need to perform a Timing Belt before it reaches the point as I just described above.

I faceed the situation as above. As you have been there, I need your insight. I posted another related to camry 1999 (Timing belt jump/break situation), Here the url

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...placement.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/967097-does-timing-jump-cause-engine-replacement-2.html#post8370802

Do you mind sharing your input/guidance, where to go from here?

Thanks for helping.

 

guapoman2000

Thanks for your success story details. I liked your approach.



I faceed the situation as above. As you have been there, I need your insight. I posted another related to camry 1999 (Timing belt jump/break situation), Here the url

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...placement.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/967097-does-timing-jump-cause-engine-replacement-2.html#post8370802

Do you mind sharing your input/guidance, where to go from here?

Thanks for helping.

Please consider this my reply to you:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-1997-2001/967097-does-timing-jump-cause-engine-replacement-3.html#post8378273

.
.
.

 

Thanks guapoman2000.

 

"When do you use N when using an automatic transmission?"

If my engine was to stall while I was driving, I would put the transmission in N and try to restart it.

 

Thanks for your replies.



Will it work if it happen on uphill driving?

What will you do differently on uphill driving/engine stall?

I guess it would depend on traffic situation, how much speed I had, if I could pull over and stop.

 

Usually use it when stuck in traffic. Set the e brake and put it in N, then drop it back in D when traffic gets moving again. You can go back and forth between N and D without pushing the shift lever button.

 

Thanks for your replies.

If my engine was to stall while I was driving, I would put the transmission in N and try to restart it.

Will it work if it happen on uphill driving?

What will you do differently on uphill driving/engine stall?

 

Concur - a stall going uphill, the first concern is not being rear-ended by the car behind you ...

I guess if it ever happened to me ...

Turn on hazards.
Steer for apron/shoulder of road.
Shift into neutral.
If could not start engine before forward progress stopped, apply brake to prevent rolling backward.
If still can't start engine, let car roll backward onto shoulder and call tow truck.

 

Daijoubu says

Maybe if your cruise control unit fail, or your accelerator pedal is stuck, neutral will save your life lol

There was a toyota rapid acceleration issue (due to accelerator pedal is stuck) awhile ago. It caused lot of accidents.

Does putting to 'N' prevent such accidents?

What is the impact of speed at which this situation happen?

Putting to 'N' dis-engage the transmission (automatic). What else is happening to prevent accident here?

Thanks for sharing.

12/10

Replied by TigerHeli

I never heard of a real issue with Toyota where shifting to neutral wouldn't take care of the issue or why that wasn't tried by drivers with the issue.

Toyota did not document this work around (shifting to neutral ) for this issue. I did not find it in their website either. It is a good point for drivers to apply during such situation.

Thanks for sharing.

 

There was a toyota rapid acceleration issue (due to accelerator pedal is stuck) awhile ago. It caused lot of accidents.

Not completely sure of that either.

Audi had the same "issue" about 20 years ago and the "fix" for them was moving the brake pedal several inches over from the accelerator so drivers wouldn't get them confused.

I never heard of a real issue with Toyota where shifting to neutral wouldn't take care of the issue or why that wasn't tried by drivers with the issue.

 

Does putting to 'N' prevent such accidents?

Yes

What is the impact of speed at which this situation happen?

Engine would start bouncing off the rev limiter and you'd be able to brake and pull over and hopefully shut the car off.

Putting to 'N' dis-engage the transmission (automatic). What else is happening to prevent accident here?

Not sure what you mean here. If your throttle is stuck and you stick it in N, you no longer provide power to the wheels. Car eventually stops with or without brakes.

 

Engine would start bouncing off the rev limiter and you'd be able to brake and pull over and hopefully shut the car off.

Are you sure all 3rd and 4th gens have a rev limiter? My 99 1mzfe did not hit one in neutral at 5k. Is it higher than that?


Also, I am surprised nobody thought about when you are in a car wash. At least all the ones around here have you in neutral. Man does that mess some peoples heads up, too. You would think it would be a simple request.

 

Oh, I also use N to back the car out of the driveway. Gravity: nature's fuel!

 

12/10

Quote:
Replied by TigerHeli

I never heard of a real issue with Toyota where shifting to neutral wouldn't take care of the issue or why that wasn't tried by drivers with the issue.

Toyota did not document this work around (shifting to neutral ) for this issue. I did not find it in their website either. It is a good point for drivers to apply during such situation.

I find car owners manual, MVA/DMV Drivers handbook did not document the use of 'N' (Neutral transmission). The owners manual mention about FREE movement between 'D' & 'N'. It did not say beyond it.

I asked the driving instructor about it. He was surprised about my 'N' use question. I am not sure, how drivers could learn about it? :disappoin

Thanks for sharing.

 

It's common sense, if you can't figure out what neutral on a car is for then you should not be behind the wheel.

 

Shifting to neutral is not a "work around" for anything. It depends on when you use it. "Stuck gas pedal" its an emergency maneuver. "Stuck in traffic" its a convenience. These questions your coming up with are absolutely ridiculous but entertaining nonetheless. Here's wondering if your driving instructor feared for his life at any point in time.:rofl2:

 

I'll play devil's advocate here a bit...

I can't remember a driver's ed instructor ever telling me what Neutral was for. It was basically - step on the brake, start the car, drop in in R to go backward and into D to go forward. (And never drop it from D into R for Race ... >)

That said - I pretty much knew what it did from when I first started operating cars, so I don't think I ever bothered to ask anyone...

 

Sometimes I use Neutral after stopping the engine and find that I could move the car forward a bit, drop it in neutral and push + hand brake lol