I've used these before with great success. Note what I linked may not be the for the fuse type/size you have, but they are available for all:

Amazon.com: Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack) (Micro2 Fuse) : Automotive

Buy Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack) (Micro2 Fuse): Fuse Holders - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

smile.amazon.com

Super easy to use. Tug a fuse, plug the splitter in, it now has 2 fuse slots. One is for the existing circuit, the other for the pigtail to splice to your new circuit.

 

Perhaps you don't understand what my question is. Your fusable link is exactly what I am using. Look at my picture at the end of the red wire inside the fuse box. The problem I am having is the additional current these new lights is pulling thru an existing circuit is triggering the computer to believe a part or component is out of its normal working voltage. This added amp draw is causing the check engine light. I need to find an open circuit to tap into that doesn't trigger the computer to go whacko. That is what I am hoping others have found and can tell me where it is.

 

You should read the codes and make sure that is actually the problem. What circuit did you tap in to?

 

You should read the codes and make sure that is actually the problem. What circuit did you tap in to?

I have searched the owners manual and the internet to find a diagram of the 2021 Venza fuse panels that tell what each fuse does so I can find a open, not being used location to pull power but have had no luck. Anybody have this information? Pulling power at this location is the most convenient since the wires to the added lights come up in that areas.


Good question. That was one of the other questions I asked. It is a 10 amp fuse in the rear of the fuse box that is hot when key is on. I cannot find any info diagram that tells what system each fuse powers. Toyota only gives us the size of fuse required in each location. That all I can find. I will have the code read soon. Again, the question I am asking is has anybody else found a good place to power 12 volt power from for their modifications.

 

Did you look under the fuse cover? I think you tapped the EFI #3 fuse.

Try a fuse that is already used for something like the horn or lighting.

 

Damn Steve108. Great eye! Yes, I know the info (most of it in code) is under the fuse cover. And I don't know what 90% of it is. And I went back a few minutes ago and looked at where I was tapped into. I thought it was the horn fuse but at looking at my picture I agree it was the EFI#3 fuse and not the horn. Guess I know why it thru a check engine light. I really feel kind of stupid now. I moved my fuse tap the other day because the real horn fuse is powered full time and not with the key on at start up I believe. I will need to double check with the volt meter. So I guess to save me from myself has anyone found a SAFE source of 12 volt accessory power in the 2 fuse boxes under the hood??

 

$20 for a two day subscription at TIS. Get access to factory manual, wiring diagram, etc.

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_what_is_tis_page

 

Waiting watching for solution as I ordered those lights also
Waiting to hook up

 

I don't have a Venza, but on both my Camry and Corolla I tapped into the 12v power outlet circuit with no issues. You could also use that to trigger a relay and get the power to the lights directly from the battery. Relays have a very minimal power draw.

 

Try rotating the Add a Circuit 180 degrees, remove it, turn it 180 degrees and plug it back in. Hope it works for you.

 

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I have just been doing some research to find an acceptable fuse to tap into safley. I was hoping someone would say go to fuse # such-n-such and it will fix your problem. That hasn't happened yet. Over the weekend I will go thru both fuse boxes completely with a voltmeter and test every fuse for power on/key on and power off/key off and hope for better results. There are a few fuse slots that have no fuse in them that I have not tested. I am hoping one of them will work. A thought I have had is to just tap into the power wire going to my fog lights. That power comes from under the dash on the left side of the steering column and is a reliable source of key on power. Been running fog lights for months with no issues. I run my fog lights full time so the white DRL would be on also. And that would give me the ability to turn both off. To be clear the turn signals and the blue light work perfectly but they are wired into wires on back of headlights. I will report my findings hopefully with good news soon.

STVOTW- the batteries are in the back right rear of these Vensa's by the spare tire. Not convenient.
JAHJR- rotating the fuse 180 will get it in the horn fuse but as I said earlier the horn fuse is full time power which is why I moved it and got into trouble.

 

Well, I have good news and very surprising news to report. The good news is I am sure I have found an acceptable 12 volt accessory power source that the computer won't get upset about. I HOPE. It is the washer fluid fuse. It is in the same row as my original attempt and where I intended to put the tap in the first attempt but got screwed up and put it in the EFI#3 slot. The computer doesn't like that at all and is what caused the check engine light. Jahjr perhaps this is what you were trying to tell be by suggesting I turn the fuse 180 degrees. I have also attached a picture of the inside of the fuse cover to show the location of the washer fuse. Here are where the wiring for these lights must to attached to the Venza to work.
Wires on 3 color lights ........................................ Location on Venza
Red wire for White DRL color light ........................ Washer fuse location (Use fuse tap)
Black wire for ground.............................................. Bolt on shock tower behind fuse box
Blue wire for Blue color lights................................. Black wire on headlight wiring plug (Drivers side only)
Yellow wire for Yellow color turn signal lights.......... Green wire on headlight wiring plug (On both drivers and pass side)

This is not a "how to install" post but just sharing my experience good and bad. I really like the looks of these lights. Especially in the white DRL and yellow turn signal modes. As I said earlier I am not running them in the blue light mode at present. The blue light mode is intended to come on when the headlights turn on. What I did was cut the blue wire and installed a male/female butt connector. At present it is unplugged so they don't work. The white DRL light is on full time. I have attached a picture of the finished look. I am pleased. Hope this helps anyone wanting to add these lights.

Now for the very surprising new. The check engine light and hybrid engine malfunction warning I caused by putting the fuse tap in the wrong place (EFI#3 fuse) has went away all by itself. On about the 3rd or 4th time I started to car after the event it was gone. I still had my non dealer shop read the computer and the event was logged in the memory but was not active. I had him delete the event. His assumption is since it was only a brief, one time error that the new computers programming turn them off after 3 or 4 cycles. That never happened in the old days that I know of. The check engine light was on for ever or until it was turned off by a mechanic.

 

for the blue clips/splices, how did you do that to the yellow and blue wires?
what part?
thanks

 

What do you got between your fog lights? are those deer sirens?

 

Yes they are. Do not know if they really work but we have lived out in the country for 37 years and haven't hit one yet!! 🤣

 

That is correct. Low profile 10 amp mini is what I used. At it is still a tight fit.

 

So I've got it all done EXCEPT the passenger side yellow wire.
The headlight plug is packaged up totally.
So do i just have to rip into the wrapping and unwrap it to get to the green wire?

 

As you can see my fuses are right up against the blue relay. Its tight for sure. Trim those tabs on the relay.

 

Yup, super tight fit but got it to work.
Mine aren't 3 color, only 2,white and yellow.

 

I understand. I know there are several types out there. Post a picture if you get a chance.

 

Lights on

Hazards on/turn signals

Lights off

I'll go out tonight and check them at night. Can't figure out where the blue light is? I hooked up the blue wire to the black wire.

 

View attachment 389791
Lights on
View attachment 389790
Hazards on/turn signals
View attachment 389789
Lights off

I'll go out tonight and check them at night. Can't figure out where the blue light is? I hooked up the blue wire to the black wire.

They look great. Yes, the blue wire of the new lights should be connected to the black wire on the headlight bundle. Blue lights should be on only when headlights are on. Maybe you don't have a good connection to the black wire for the headlights would be my only guess.

 

Random question... Is it possible to void the manufacturer warranty and/or an extended Toyota warranty by installing aftermarket lighting? I come from the Jeep world and I've installed a ton of lights, but never worried about the warranty... Really don't want to void this one...

 

Well, I can't imagine if done properly and if your wiring isn't causing any issues with other systems in the vehicle why it would. I have installed fog lights in the factory position using Toyota fog light mounting brackets. My dealer is well aware that I added them and doesn't have an issue with them. They performed 2 recalls after my fog light install. Never said a word.