The igniter is the coil. Maybe it's something in the Japanese to English translation. From least to most expensive are the plugs, wires, coil and ECM Module. That's what is telling the coil to fire. If the coil fixed it you are good.



If it does look like an ECM problem the numbers on the ECM are VERY important so you need to find a match or one in the series. BTDT.

 

There is an igniter it is near the LH strut tower looks like this.

 

Thanks guys, I found it. Don't know how I've missed it all these years. Looks like a simple thing to get from the junkyard if I have any more trouble.

 

Not sure if any of these yards are close to ya but those units fit a lot of the V6 powered Toyota's. Same unit is on my 1995 T100. Anyway cheaper than $335 bucks!
http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search....serLong=-85.6387000&userIntSelect=322580&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=

 

... Sometimes, an electrical part seems to fail just because the copper contact surfaces have become oxidized or dirty over the years. So it may be worthwhile to get some 400 grit emery cloth or a fine bronze wire brush, and maybe some contact cleaner spray. This is particularly true where signals are being communicated, such as the spark trigger and firing confirmation. For an expensive part, it might pay to check.

 

20+ year old electronics aren't what they used to be. suspect the igniter and/or the ecm. several has had to replace the computer in the last year or so on these gen's due to cap failures.
tony

 

Reviving an older post because I've now experienced this myself. 99 V6 Federal was fine one day and won't start the next morning. P1300 ignition control module not providing IGF back to the ECM is the only stored code.

No spark. 12V present at the coils and at the igniter and all wiring intact. All resistances checked fine including the camshaft position sensor. EFI relay is fine. Have not checked the crankshaft position sensor because I can't easily move the car to a place where I can jack it up to pull the wheel and apron cover to access it. Not expecting that to be bad overnight and with no codes for it.

Will check the IGT1, 2 and 3 voltages from the ECM tomorrow, if these check out, I'll next try another igniter per FSM.

Any better ideas and / or suggestions and recommendations? They're welcome as always.

 

I've confirmed that IGT1, 2 & 3 from the ECU change voltage when I crank the starter and are working fine. ECU is fine and I can see 12V on all the coils and at the Igniter but no spark. I've concluded that it's my igniter that's bad causing P1300. Looking for a replacement......