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window regulator quality vs price ?

3K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  93geoprim  
#1 ·
My 2000 corolla has a dead stuck open driver's side window. The switch is good since there is very slight movement when I work the
switch. So most likely the regulator mechanism or the motor is bad.

Looking online, I see wild variations in price for window regulator with motor. From $23 to over $120.

How bad are the cheap ones ? Anyone bought a cheap replacement ? How long did it last ? The driver's side window does get the
most usage.

I am also thinking of going to the junkyard & pulling a window motor, $27, from a rear window since the rear windows don't get worked as much.
I figure an old oem window motor with low usage might still be better than a new cheap window motor.

Opinions ? TIA.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I used to follow a link I found 6 years ago and it worked flawless.

"quote" (credit to john wheeler)

I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.


I did not see any difference in behavior of the window motor except it works like before. The auto function works as well.

Here's a picture of the plates inside the motor.
https://imgur.com/a/DTqsdqd
 
#9 ·
Fixed. I ended up pulling the motor from the left passenger side & swapping it into the driver side. I did take the original motor apart.
It was dirty. I cleaned it & also tried shorting out the PTC resistor & directy connect it to the battery. Nothing. I did notice the brushes
getting badly mangled. Almost like it was trying to move & got gouged. I'll have to check the armature for opens & shorts. I still like
to fix the original motor.

Putting it all back together wasn't too bad. The window has to be bolted to the regulator first & then it's just a matter of moving everything
until the bolt holes align. This is my first window job. I also cleaned the door panel while it was out. It got so clean I even cleaned the back
side as well.
 
#10 ·
Went to the junkyard & got a left rear passenger Denso window motor for $13. Swapped it in & all my windows work. I found lubricating the regulator
track that the plastic rollers run in makes a big difference in how easy the regulator expands & contracts. Reduce the work load on the motor by a lot.
I highly recommend it.

The passenger window regulator works slightly differently & installation was a bitch. Finally realized that raising the window all the way up ( used a piece
of wood to hold it there ) & then sliding the regulator roller into the track & then moving the regulator around until the 4 holes lined up was the
way to install everything.

In summary, I think getting a left rear passenger Denso motor from a junkyard is a better choice than buying a new brand X window motor to fix a
bad driver's side bad motor.