I think it is prudent to change it somewhere between 30-50K miles. I did 3X drain/fill at 25K miles.

 

In view of fact there are known problems with the torque converter and it is hard to get the fill level right, you may want to leave this up to your dealer to do. If you mess it up they may not honor the extended warranty.

It is a good idea to change it now. I had the dealer do mine at this mileage. I did my 2013 Highlander myself because it has a dip stick to verify the fill level with.

 

How did your transmission fluid look when you changed it? I let my old Grand Am go 100K miles and 8 years and the oil actually looked new yet... I drove it like a granny though and hardly ever gunned it much above 3000 RPM.

Given the power in the V6 I just bought, I doubt I'll need to take this camry much above 3000 RPM for any reason. Heat ages the fluid exponentially faster I've heard...

I have thought about swapping an exact amount of room temperature fluid for what I remove, when I do change it out. Idiot proof really.

 

Transmission fluid was dirty but lubrication properties seemed OK coming out of Highlander at 70K.
Used Toyota WS fluid for transmission.

I wonder if an external transmission cooler would help the Camry. Cooler used is about the size and shape of a round quart oil can. They run engine coolant through one section and transmission fluid through the other. Not like the old days when the transmission cooler was built into the radiator.

 

I’m not sure what others are doing, but given TSB 0034-14, my current plan is to change the transmission filter, remove the two current pan magnets, add the four new TSB Magnets (part # 35394-08010), and change all transmission fluid at 25-30K on our 2015 LE. Although the current TSB concerning the U760E transmission includes only the 2012-14 models, the 15-16 Camry transmissions are likely nearly identical with perhaps only minor internal mechanical changes and software updates. It just seems to me to be the safest approach. Everything else is done with the full fluid & filter change anyway… and more magnets can only help for the long haul. Cost at dealer is $300 plus magnets (looks like about $6 each).

U760E transmissions using the same parts:
Magnet/Oil Cleaner: Part Number - 35394-30011/New Part# 35394-08010, Quantity 4, (Fits 13-15, could not verify 12)
Transmission Filter: Part # 3533073010 (Fits 12-15)
Pan Gasket: Part # 35168-73010 (Fits 12-15)
Pan: Part #s 14-15 - 35106-06020, 12-13 - 35106-0R010

Note: I could not verify the 2016 parts via an online Toyota Parts Catalog but I would expect that they’re the same as 2015. As shown above, there are also different transmission pan part numbers dependent on year. I have no idea what the change is/was but it can’t be much since they still all use the same filters, magnets (per TSB), and pan gaskets.

Best to all, Dave

 

Cost at dealer is $300 plus magnets (looks like about $6 each).

Best to all, Dave

A very good information. If your dealer can change the filter, drop the pan, add the magnets and replace the fluid and finalize the level, then $300 is not a bad deal. Dropping pan is a lot of work. Keep up the good work, General Dave!

 

That TSB was issued in April '14, any production units after that would include that correction.
That TSB was a software adjustment to reduce shudder during TC lockup.
Not sure how that relates to the fluid.

 

No problem Rich… but TSB 0034-14 for the 12-14 Camry basically states that if the Torque Converter Shutters with light loads between 25-50MPH to replace the converter with a new one…then add more magnets to the pan, fill with new fluid, and update the software. I’m reading it as I type.

Much like the earlier 2012 TSB 0086-12 that directed multiple transmission fluid drain and refills along with the current 2012-14 Warranty Enhancement Program for the same issue, this tells me that these systems, shuttering to one degree or another, are allowing too much debris to pass through the system…thus the provision for added magnets and revised software to eliminate or reduce the shutter. It just looks to me like they are “hoping” that added magnets, fresh fluid, and a software update will finally solve most of the flex-lockup issues…at least for a while. Though I’ve had no problems, some folks however have reported what they consider a light shudder in the 2015 models. If this is true, and as a precaution I was going to change the fluid early anyway (due to a 4 year history of issues and reports of black fluid at just 50k), why not just go ahead and add the extra magnets and be done with it. Hope that helps… but that’s how this relates to fluid… at least as I see it.

Best, Dave

 

In all my cars, I've drain and fill myself the transmission fluid at 25k km [15,500 miles] and repeat 3 - 4 times after each oil change then wait until 100k km [62k miles] ... then repeat process.

 

Personally, I think that's a excellent habit! It's just so much more difficult with these as a DIY.

 

If you read the owner's manual, you'll notice there's a 60k ATF change interval "if" your vehicle is subjected to "harsh operating conditions" such as, stop and go traffic, trailer pulling, short trips, hot/dusty/humid/cold conditions.

Basically, every car I've ever owned at any time in my life would qualify for this.

 

Taking the pan off is only a lot of work for someone who has no mechanical ability what so ever. and i would say it might add another 30 minutes at most if you keep working.Other then that getting the fluid level correct by taking the pan off is no different then just taking the drain plug out. I added the addition magnets and put in a new filter on mine when i did it about a month ago. Don't let anyone tell you it doesn't have a filter or some metal "strainer" That is total bull.

get your 10mm socket and ratchet out and get to work.

 

... I added the additional magnets and put in a new filter on mine when i did it about a month ago.

Nice job and good input there for everyone! I was wondering though, why Toyota says to remove the two existing magnets and add the four new ones… instead of just adding two new ones… for the same total of four magnets? Did you compare the old magnets to the new ones…what’s the difference? Are the new magnets bigger or stronger Neo-magnets or something? What year and model is your Camry? How many miles were on your car when you did this? How did the fluid look and smell. Is there any noticeable difference in shift quality? LOL…OCD… I know… but just wondering…

Thanks… and best, Dave

The filth they left when changing my TC is certainly more destructive!

..and this is exactly what I hope to avoid! ...but how is the TC change working out for you? Issue solved?

Best, Dave

 

The problem seems to be getting the correct "level" so that when you remove "room temperature" fluid, whether drain or pan drop, the overflow tube will tell you when it's full.

PERSONALLY, I don't see any way a dealer could void your warranty for over or under filling a couple of ounces. I am not convinced their new system is dead-nuts on for temp variations!!

When I take 3 oz. out for a oil lab to test and put 3 (or 4) back in it won't make a hoot in tranny operation. The filth they left when changing my TC is certainly more destructive!

 

am guessing the four new instead of cleaning the old two is how would you do it? The bulletins SPECIFICALLY say to not even clean the pan using solvent--just wipe out well. I bet they are afraid of solvent being carried into the ATF with "cleaned" magnets.


Sort of better. Shudder every once in a while, but still at 25-30. But a lot of intermittent flare now. Acceleration at 40-50 can lay there a second or two without a shift, but some rise in RPM. One bad one but most are semi-subtle.

 

World Standard "LIFE TIME" Trans Fluid? Myth?




I've driven 4 Camrys from this gen so far. My car and rentals(waiting for my car to be fixed). I'm convinced they all shudder at some point for fuel efficiency. Give it a little gas or drop it into manual mode and bam....shudder is gone and you are in the correct gear. Some are worse than others. The car wants to be in a higher gear all the time. I'm constantly in 5th when I should still be in 4th, 3rd when I should still be picking up speed in 2nd, etc, etc. Dealer told me its all normal. Now if they can just put my car back together properly.

Amazed dealers even mess with transmissions, Thought they would sub this kinda work out to subject matter experts...i.e. Transmission shops. It's quite frightening.


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How about adding an external transmission filter like this one:

http://www.shop.perma-cool.com/10678-Transmission-Filter-System-Standard-10678.htm

This should help filter out alot of the little particles.

 

This should help filter out a lot of the little particles.

Might be a good idea... looking at the installation instructions... it could be a real trick though setting it up between the existing external cooler and the transmission with a safe mounting location.

Best, Dave

 

The transmission already has a filter. Its really not difficult to change it out. If your able to replace the fluid and get the level right, dropping the pan isn't a big deal.

adding an external filter just creates another place for a leak to form.

 

Adding an external filter in the cooling circuit will result in additional restriction to the fluid flow.

Could this cause a problem which results in poor cooling?

 

The filter would install in series with the cooler, which simply dumps back into the pan, so it is not feeding into anything critical.
It would theoretically improve cooling by holding the fluid in the cooler longer, but a proper system with a good quality filter is not going to be a problem.

 

If i use a 6mm hex wrench to drain the pan,how much will drain out? If i drop the pan ,how much fluid will drain out? If i install a drain in the pan,how much will drain out when the drain plug is removed? thanks!

 

That's iffy. Drain plug where? In the lower back or in the bottom?
It seems like you would have to weld a boss onto the pan to have enough depth to tap a thread. It would have to be outside or you create the same problem--a raised area that won't drain.

 

Are the 4 new magnets added to the same location of the ol' magnets?

Anyone have a downloadable PDF of this TSB?

 

Page 7



http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM509289/SB-10056821-7378.pdf

 

Think you can get complete instructions from NTSA web site.

 

Here's a link to the exact factory fluid leveling directions folks..... SOOOO much better than having a dip stick LOL.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/60imu89ri78sft8/ATF DRAIN & FILL & LEVELING - CAMRY U760E.pdf?dl=0.

 

Any way to get ta without a Dropbox account?

 

Hmm, should just be able to click the link and it opens. I as the host am the one who needs the DB account on which to host it.

 

The U760E transmission is light duty and fragile so fluid changes are more important than ever. Pan dropping is not needed during the first 100,000 miles if you place some of these ultra strong yet inexpensive magnets http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYJB2EG?psc=1 on the outside of the pan to turn the whole bottom of the pan into a magnetic debris trapping filter. Toyota's 6 speed automatics are so sensitive to wear debris (including non-magnetic debris) floating around in the transmission that Toyota uses a paper element transmission oil filter whereas in previous 3, 4 and 5 speeds had a cleanable metal filter screen that was sufficient.

 

Lifetime fluid is actually prophetic - when the ability of the fluid to protect the lubricated components is at an end, the life of the component will likewise come to an end soon thereafter.

The TCH PSD has relatively mild (compared to the 6AT) environment, with the tasks of cooling and lubricating the components. The MG heat and environmental contamination (e.g. dust ingested from thermal cycling) are primary causes for deterioration.

 

You really have to ask why something called "lifetime" becomes a maintenance item they start suggesting after 100K.

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Probably because the average customer wouldn't second-guess what the dealers tell you and "lifetime" sounds like a good marketing pitch.

 

Because the majority of new car buyers only keep their cars for 3-5 years, which keeps most well below 100k.

The "lifetime" JC-Penny Battery... the first sealed, supposedly no-maintenance battery marketed in the late 70s, was simply a 60-month battery with a $10 upcharge for the "lifetime"

 

Alrighty folks I've been reading all day on ATF changes. I'm currently at 120k miles and my car runs great. I get all maintenance done right on time or even a little earlier than whats recommended. I've been always told that the ATF does not need changing but everything I keep reading online and forums is telling me otherwise.

I contacted 3 dealerships today and 2 said they couldn't do a full flush and one said they can do it using a machine which can check all the temperatures properly while filling and draining. The price I was quoted was around $420 :surprise: . I'm no expert on cars and consider myself a complete noob when it comes to these kinds of things.

What do I say to the dealership so that I can properly get this done? Is it a flush or a drain? Also I've never changed the ATF before, this will be the first time. Another thing I read is that the proper way is to remove the pan, change the filter, add magnets.

I'd like to keep my car for as long as I can and I'm just paranoid about this whole service and who to trust with this.

FYI I have a 2012 Camry SE V6~