if you heard the engine turning over, I doubt its the starter, and alternator wouldn't really have much of a impact during start up.

I'm gonna go on a limb here and say fuel pump? Check its fuses (or the F/P relay or the pump itself). If its dead, you can crank all day and not get a thing.

 

Thank you for your comment.

My apologies. I thought I'd made it clear that "turn[ing] the ignition result[ed] in the typical fluttering clicking sound with the engine not turning over - not even once."

To be clearer: turning the ignition resulted in the typical electrical fluttering clicking sound with the engine not turning over - not even once.

 

give it a jump

Have you tried to jump start it? The last couple of times my car batteries have gone bad, I didn't see any ofthe usual signs that lead up to it. But they started right up when the jumper cable was attached properly. I you can jump start it, drive it to a parts store or garage and have the starting system checked.

 

With a $5 multimeter you can do some testing. Your battery should be at about 12.6 v. If you have that then It is most likely the starter or something in the "starter control circuit"

1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)

 

With a $5 multimeter you can do some testing. Your battery should be at about 12.6 v. If you have that then It is most likely the starter or something in the "starter control circuit"

1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)

You can't trust the voltmeter when it comes to that. You'll put in on there and it'll show you +12v and you think you're ok. However, that's what's called a surface charge. Once you load it, by cranking the engine for example, with a low/bad battery, it'll probably drop well below 12v.

The battery needs to be load tested on a bench. However, the battery has to fully charged for this test to be accurate.

 

Headlights, interior lights and horn all function without any dimming. I suppose typically in this situation (assuming the battery is good) that the issue can be the solenoid, starter, or alternator..

You can't trust the voltmeter when it comes to that. You'll put in on there and it'll show you +12v and you think you're ok. However, that's what's called a surface charge. Once you load it, by cranking the engine for example, with a low/bad battery, it'll probably drop well below 12v.

The battery needs to be load tested on a bench. However, the battery has to fully charged for this test to be accurate.

He is telling us that when he goes to start it the starter is not drawing anything.

1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)

 

If the OP tries to jump it and it still clicks it is the starter or SCC.

1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)

 

Take it to your local Walmart. They can test the battery in 2 minutes for free and let you know if it needs to be replaced. . Its very likely bad battery - yes they can die in 3 years these days.
Walmart actually sells a pretty decent battery at a good price. That's what is in my HL for the last year (since an Interstate Megatron died in 37 months : ), and it works great and cost $75 and has a 3 year non prorated free replacement warranty. Prorated warranty is useless.

 

I'd first see if getting a jump connection starts the car. If so, then most likely the battery. Odd that the lights don't dim, as the fluttering sound (if we understand the noise correctly) is the starter solenoid cycling on and off as it attempts to feed high current to the starter motor, which causes the voltage to drop too low to keep the solenoid engaged...and it repeats.

During this attempted cranking the battery terminal voltage will often fall below 9v, sometimes lower depending on how many cells are defective.

Many Walmart's have load testers in their customer service or service areas. Most will require at least a partial charge on the tester to thumbs up/down the battery. If it's dead dead, it'll figure that out in a few minutes.

Only bought Wal-mart batteries for the last decade. Great prices, typically fresh batteries, decent warranty, good performance and (wait for it)... you can't swing Nancy Pelosi (closest thing to a dead cat look I can think of on the fly) without hitting a Wal-mart.

 

Only bought Wal-mart batteries for the last decade. Great prices, typically fresh batteries, decent warranty, good performance and (wait for it)... you can't swing Nancy Pelosi (closest thing to a dead cat look I can think of on the fly) without hitting a Wal-mart.

Nancy Pelosi???...hopefully just an esoteric reference to quantum mechanics (via dead cat) since the subject is electrical in nature? Personally I'd much rather swing Rush Limbaugh but I don't think I could get him up in the air. OK no more political tinged commentary for me....sorry could not help myself....

 

Very much appreciate everyones response. Thank you all.

A question posed, did my portable jumper ever turn the engine. Answer: No. My apology for not mentioning that in my initial post. From that realization (jumper ineffective) I took to checking the fuses, that if blown, could possibly be the culprit. The fuses in question were #3 starter 7.5A, #4 EFI No.2 10A, and #5ETCS 10A and confirmed as good. The next move was to get the battery over to our local AutoZone - among other free services, they do free battery checks. My battery checked out at 10% capacity. I sprung for a battery called the Duralast Gold Battery http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=832327 Got it home dropped it in, connected the leads - the engine started up without any issue. In the end a new battery does appear to have resolved the problem. As batteries go it seems (reads) like a fairly good one. Thanks again for everyones help:thumbsup:

 

Glad it worked out to be just a battery. I am not sure exactly what you were trying to use but many "portable" jumpers are often not powerful enough to start a car with a dead battery.

 

If it was a lone solitary click then you'd be correct. However, the OP described a fluttering clicking sound which, to me, indicates a series of clicks. A series of clicks indicates low voltage and insufficient current (Amps). So either the battery has insufficient charge or it's bad.

A solitary click, with a fully charged battery, would indicate a stuck bendix. However, you could verify the battery is good even with a bad bendix. After you try to crank it, since it pulls a huge load, the battery should still be above 12v.

You can not have a continuous click and the headlights not dimming with a bad battery. It defies physics.

To be honest I was thinking it might be an ignition switch. The thread was getting so confusing I decided not to mention it..that's good because I would have been wrong
1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)

 

I wouldn't have thought to use Nancy and quantum mechanics or for that matter, 3rd grade math in the same sentence.

 

Just when I think Nancy could never surprise me again, she seems to somehow do it.

1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)

 

Coincidently my Daughter called me yesterday from the HS parking lot. I listened as she trued to start the 98 Camry........rapid clicks...... I happened to be right next to my Costco. I got a 3 year battery for $73. The old bat was a 6 year old AAA with about 50k miles on it. I am thinking at the parts stores the 3 years start at $120. Just an FYI
1998 Camry, I4, Auto, 130k. (sent from my Droid Bionic)

 

Costco is an excellent source for car battery at reasonable cost. Just have to make sure, like anyplace else you buy a battery, that you ask for and verify that they are selling you a fresh one (no more than 1-2 months old).