I've removed these with a shallow socket, I was not able to engage the socket completely to the ratchet but they came out no problem.

BTW when using toyodiy the list of compatible vehicles is not the full story you must actually click on the various choices, you may find out not all vehicles listed actually use said part.

What does the black lettering bottom right denote?

 

Okay. I'll try look for a 6pt shallow socket. Yea, it's a good thing I tested this deep socket first otherwise I'd be in so much pain when I actually did my own car!

Yes, you mean when you expand the field, right?

This is true on the ES300/ES330. Example is the USA market. 2004-2006 4ES models only came in the 3.3L 3MZFE. The list shows only the 1MZFE under that when you click on it. I guess other markets only the 3.0L ?

Not sure what that letter means (that two digit letter) but maybe what category the item is for? The label looked really real and feels and peels like the legit labels, but Toyota parts (at least one I get from roman and Servco) doesn't come in this semi thick grade plastic bag which the eBay knock sensor came in.

 

This is a good debunking thread. FWIW I use the 27mm in this set: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2-Inc...2-Inch-Shallow-Impact-6-Point/dp/B000JLBQV2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

...yeah, you need a shallow socket otherwise the ratchet head will hit the other side of the Vee, plus those impact sockets come in handy for other things. Oh yeah, -12090 fakes I installed in that RX300 failed, so I'll be replacing those sometime soon. I'll get a link later.

 

I figure I'd make a thread to just discuss this.

Situation : 1998 Camry LE V6 knock sensor is going bad. One is bad.

Not to be a butthead, but I have questions:

How do you know a sensor is going bad?
How do you know the other one is bad?
Any codes?
Any performance issues (poor acceleration, poor gas milage, knocking/pinging)?

 

butthead, wtf for asking completely valid questions.

1. You don't. It'll throw a code every time from what I've seen. Could also be the harness, main engine harness (rare), or ECU (rare unless they're getting to that age for them to die, as per @mcgowaw).

2. Again, it'll throw a specific code. But while you're in there you should replace both. Cheaping out is cheaping out, but most try to make do with fake eBay sensors because $340 is a lot of cake.

3. P033x.

4. If they're going bad a bit, intermittently, you'll see codes but no change in performance. If they're not working a significant portion of the time, the ECU will pull timing and throw the car into limp mode. It will have barely any power and fuel economy will drop. These engines aren't prone to knocking unless, say, you put in 85 octane or something. The ECU, if the program is anything like what I've seen on GM vehicles, will have backup ways of determining gross knocking - namely, input from crank and cam position sensors. Some more info, Hondas have an easier time of this because of their robust TDC sensor systems.

HTH

 

The reason I asked, insightbrewery, was that I had a knock sensor code (can't remember specific code) thrown about 3 years ago with my '01 Chevy Silverado. I was going to go in and replace both knock sensors. I mentioned this to one of our fleet mechanics at work and he asked if I was experiencing any poor performance, or pinging/knocking. When I replied that I hadn't, he suggested before I did any replacing of sensors (and the work associated with that task), I might try the following:

Clean EGR Valve
Clean Throttle Body
Run some quality fuel system cleaner through the engine

I did the above, cleared the code with my code reader, and never had any knock sensor codes come back. So I guess I've always wondered if those knock sensor codes are always a bad sensor/wiring, or is something else causing the code to be thrown.

 

Yeah on the 1MZ they're pretty cut-and-dried. Oh and I hope you're not misinterpreting what I said to start my response post; I'm not calling you a butthead, I thought it was amusing because you're not a butthead for asking perfectly valid questions.

 

@insightbrewery

I was litterally JUST looking at that kit. I'm planning to pick up the shallow and deep... this should complete my basic tool set. I was also looking at getting a better torque wrench for the axle mug since I gotta do the rear mount too

I feel dumb as I've been buying a few of these but by itself...but instead all can be had for just a small amount more PLUS a carry case.



Hmm that RX one went bad eh? Damn. Well I'm still watching the junkyard. There was a 2000 Avalon this past weeks if it's still there I'll try grab the knock sensor when I get my shallow 27mm set.

I really need to get air tools....

 

Yep, buy the sets, they've been great for the price. The deep is great, I bought that first - sometimes, you need just that little bit less springiness with an impact wrench to break off a stubborn fastener. Shallows provide that advantage. Plus yeah, the carry case is durable. Now just get you a good electric impact and you're good to go! I strongly recommend the Milwaukee M18 Fuel one, but keep in mind the battery will lock you into that manufacturer.

Actually no, I just checked it today and no knock sensor codes - P0302 again. I cleared it, then beat on the car and it wasn't there. The owner says it goes into limp mode; I don't know what that entails other than reduced engine power, but he says limp mode disables overdrive. Gotta look into that.

 

I figure I'd make a thread to just discuss this.

Situation : 1998 Camry LE V6 knock sensor is going bad. One is bad.

Not to be a butthead, but I have questions:

How do you know a sensor is going bad?
How do you know the other one is bad?
Any codes?
Any performance issues (poor acceleration, poor gas milage, knocking/pinging)?

That's not a butt head question it's a very good question

For starters, you'll get a cel light. Based off the light, it might be one or two. If both go on at the same time, i would suspect harness.

If you are doing the knock sensor OR the coolant bypass hose, please do them both. Get a new harness as well. If your also down there, valve cover gaskets, spark plug, pcv valve and the like can be done. New intake gasket of course.


For me the car felt it is a pig. Been like this for quite a while. Besides a bunch of other codes my 1998 has, the car runs fine. Fuel economy is worst than my 2004 V6 but not terribly far from it. I do feel a lack of power especially on the freeway. Cruising speeds is okay, but during moderate to heavy accelerating or climbing a hill with 40mph+, it feel sluggish. It will only pick up speeds if it downshifts to the lowest gear.

 

That's not a butt head question it's a very good question

Good...I didn't want to offend you or anyone else! Thanks for the detailed reply.

 

knock sensor removal v6 3.0

the method i used was a deep socket 27mm but instead of a ratchet i gripped it with channel locks to crack it loose.... then i hand turned the socket the rest of the way...

 

I've heard on here that a bad knock sensor will make the vechicle feel like a slug but it will also prevent over drive for these cars as well. For me I still got over drive, just the car just doesn't have any power and fuel economy is bleh.

What else more you can do to that RX? Besides checking for fuel compression and ignition, .... hmm...


And wow that Milwaukee M18 is pricey. Air tools can be had cheaper but require an compressor... hmm I'm going to need power tools and a good set of 6pt (no 12pt here people) for the axle nut and the knock sensor.

 

Yeah, you'll be looking at about $400 - either a kit, or $200 for the tool and another $200 for a couple 4.0 Ah batteries. Lol, I bought a Sawzall a few months ago for the rear mount on that ES? Got a great deal, came with a massive 9.0 Ah battery. Now I can use the impact wrench to zip off massive fasteners all week.

For air tools, I guess I'd go HF. It probably doesn't happen a lot around your area, but around here mechanics go out of business all the time - if you can figure out who, you might be able to score great tools at bargain-basement prices. Case in point, I bought a Snap-On MG723 for $150, along with an SK torque wrench (Snap-On rebadges SK torque wrenches and marks them up double) for $40. I haven't touched the Snap-On since I got the electric impact, it does 95% of the job with a lot less hassle.

Honestly? I told him to replace the battery because there was copper sulfate residue all over the terminals - that's probably it. I'll replace the battery and clean the terminals if he doesn't.

 

I received a used knock sensor from a presume 2006 V6 3.0L Camry. It looks very similar to the one I pulled from the 1998 Avalon. I might go to the junkyard again this week to try pull more knock sensors from these engines for comparison.

 

I might be hitting up the JY as well, if I can find a rare Insight. I'll see about pulling OEM sensors as well, I still want to do a cutaway vs Chinese sensors and fake Densos.

 

Ways to test knock sensors: I recently saw a lot

people asking how to check if a knock sensor is bad or not. I have tried a few ways and found there are two simple ways using a cheap multi-meter. It has been proven working at least with my 96 camry v6 (with knock sensor: 89615-12040).

1. Due to that the knock sensor bares the characteristic of a capacitor, you can use a multi-meter: set it to ohm, attach the probes to the sensor (one for middle contact and one for the body). Then, switch the two probes and touch
the same place on the sensor. You should see ohm reading transition from small number to large (or open) reading in
a few seconds. This is because the first touch caused the charge to the sensor and the second touch cause the discharge with some current going though the meter.
Of course, for some multi-meter, if it has capacitor setting, you can directly use to measure the capacitor. It should read around 9 mF.

2. Another way is to use the ~mv setting (alternative voltage setting) on the meter: attach the probes on the sensor and knock the sensor on the table. You should see some mV reading around 80mV.

I tried both ways for my car. It got CEL for both knock sensors after it got over heated once. The knock sensors
did not pass the test method 1 mentioned above. They are simply open circuited.
After the sensors are removed from the car, I used the second method. It failed as well. NOTE: make sure you do
not touch the probe with your finger to avoid interference, which can cause some mV fake reading.

Regarding the new knock sensors, I got them from ebay for $45 each. I found the ones which are claimed to be OEM and have "M" on them. I also compared them with the original ones and they simply look the same. The CEL is cleared after I put them on. I am happy with the results.
Hope the info I put here helps.

 

people asking how to check if a knock sensor is bad or not. I have tried a few ways and found there are two simple ways using a cheap multi-meter. It has been proven working at least with my 96 camry v6 (with knock sensor: 89615-12040).

1. Due to that the knock sensor bares the characteristic of a capacitor, you can use a multi-meter: set it to ohm, attach the probes to the sensor (one for middle contact and one for the body). Then, switch the two probes and touch
the same place on the sensor. You should see ohm reading transition from small number to large (or open) reading in
a few seconds. This is because the first touch caused the charge to the sensor and the second touch cause the discharge with some current going though the meter.
Of course, for some multi-meter, if it has capacitor setting, you can directly use to measure the capacitor. It should read around 9 mF.

2. Another way is to use the ~mv setting (alternative voltage setting) on the meter: attach the probes on the sensor and knock the sensor on the table. You should see some mV reading around 80mV.

I tried both ways for my car. It got CEL for both knock sensors after it got over heated once. The knock sensors
did not pass the test method 1 mentioned above. They are simply open circuited.
After the sensors are removed from the car, I used the second method. It failed as well. NOTE: make sure you do
not touch the probe with your finger to avoid interference, which can cause some mV fake reading.

Regarding the new knock sensors, I got them from ebay for $45 each. I found the ones which are claimed to be OEM and have "M" on them. I also compared them with the original ones and they simply look the same. The CEL is cleared after I put them on. I am happy with the results.
Hope the info I put here helps.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong on my cheap multi meter. I'll take a picture later today of the settings...

 

So I pulled two more knock sensors from a 2000 (built date 12/99) Solara.


Intake manifold was partially removed already...



Door Stickers


Engine shot


By-Pass hose removed


Knock knock



Side shot


Normal deep won't fit. I used an adjustable wrench and it did fine. Still waiting for my tools to come in for this. Removed the old sensors.




They seem to be the same sensor found in the 1998 Avalon I found last week and also the same one (although better looking) I purchased from ebay from a 2006 4-vin 3.0L LE/XLE Camry.

Hmmmm.....

 

I stick the 27mm shallow socket on my 1/2" ratchet, then it swings into place. If you try to put the socket on the sensor first, then attach the ratchet, you're going to have problems

 

I got that set you linked me above coming in on Tuesday. Can't believe I waited this long to buy that set...it comes in a case too.

But yea, I know what you mean. It's like removing the back nuts behind the intake manifold with your socket. Once that nut starts to come out, it pushes your socket against the firewall and...well...game over...


I'm eyeing out other 1MZ ES300 and another Avalon Gen2. If it's still there, I might try grab them.

 

Nice pics. Are there factory Denso knock sensors? If so, I'll go pull some as well, I really want to do a cutaway comparison of all the different crap us 1MZ owners put into our cars.

Yeah honestly the fuel economy annoys me a bit...as I've mentioned before, I managed better fuel economy in a 4.6L Northstar. Guess the old-car love is rearing its ugly head.

 

lol geez. Maybe the odo goes faster :grin:

As far as I know, these years toyota used Denso OR Matsushita knock sensors. The ones with the 'M' I assume is Matsushita. Funny thing is if you get the P/N for the Matsushita , people refers them to the Denso...for reals you know they are fake lol.

 

I'm curious if anyone has ordered this Airtex knock sensor from rockauto, it has Denso stamped on it for $61.79 each.
CoolSprings is approx $160, I'm assuming this is for one?
Just trying to get ahead of a potential problem as my '99 Solara 1MZFE is pushing 225,000 miles, I just purchased a genuine Toyota harness on e-bay for $26.75, I've yet to purchase the hose and gaskets.
Thanks

 

link

https://www.screencast.com/t/WfAGzcu51fvE

sorry, link didn't load, it's airtex/wells 5S2254

 

Delphi # AS10110 is the same as our cars, apparently. Even cheaper.

 

Good tip!

Check this!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Denso-...-Toyota-Lexus/332638996591?epid=75744073&hash=item4d72d4486f:g:NRUAAOSwbsta6k6i
$15!!

 

I'd feel a lot better buying one w/ the DENSO lettering molded in the plastic of the connector ring: vs. 'stamped' on the metal housing.. I agree w/ kingdom - that eBay part looks suspect.


solaratoyota: yes, that looks like the genuine part: I've ordered Airtex/Wells parts in the past, and have received repackaged / re-boxed Denso or NGK genuine parts here.. I'd trust RA to carry genuine, vs. eBay.

 

Thanks CamryFL, the e-bay seller posted by tedmich has allot of negative reviews, I would stay away. Not to disparage all sellers, there are good ones. Aircabinman is one I would recommend, I recently purchased a 9 piece timing belt kit, arrived exactly as described.

 

Thanks for this thread, helps a lot!

Been reading up on the knock sensor replacement, my 01 ES300 1MZFE 235K miles has one or both knock sensors out, tried the hack but it looks like I'm going to have to replace them both. I've been looking for the Delphi AS10110 rebox found these https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Denso-Ignition-Knock-Sensor-8961512050-AS10110-For-Various-Toyota-Lexus/401599368193 which I'm not having a good feeling about. Also these https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Knock-Denotation-Sensor-Delphi-AS10131-For-Toyota-Lexus-200-2004/172493198508 which doesn't show the Delphi box. Anyone used these?

edit, I missed davemac2's comment

I bought those Delphi KS's from that seller months back and installed them on my 2001 1mZFE without problems. Been running just fine. I get good gas mileage. I think they are the real deal.

I was looking at those earlier this week, the seller had pulled them and changed the listing. Think I'll try a pair, compare the weight etc. Although I'm thinking since both sensors are throwing codes it's probably the harness.