I am making this thread to discuss common problems owners can expect to see or potential buyers should look out for when considering the purchase of a 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, or Pontiac Vibe. Most of these issues are 1ZZFE specific, but some may also apply to XRS or Pontiac Vibe GT models. Some of these tips will also apply to 2000-2005 Celica and MR2 models, as well as other Toyota models.
Here goes!
Common issues:
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean Code
This lean code is likely the most common single complaint with these cars. This code is usually also associated with other issues like rough idle, lack of power when depressing the gas pedal, poor fuel economy, slightly good fuel economy, and additional codes.
Common repairs for this issue include the following:
1. Intake Manifold Gasket - The single most common cause of this code is a leaking original intake manifold gasket on 1ZZFE models. The original black nitrile rubber gasket was not designed for the environment of the intake manifold. Toyota released an updated intake manifold gasket made of orange silicone. On an original gasket, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. This extremely cheap repair may also be responsible for other codes like misfire codes, oxygen sensor codes, and other codes. The gasket repair is lifetime and will not result in future repairs for its failure. This repair is very inexpensive and is covered in the following DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...9-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-intake-gasket-replacement-pics.html
2. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor - Over time, the Mass Air Flow sensor can become dirty from the accumulation of dirt on the sensing wire. This is ESPECIALLY common on vehicles with oiled engine air filters like K&N. The most common complaint with a dirty MAF sensor is a P0171 AND a lack of power when accelerating. The repair is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2130-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-maf-sensor-removal-cleaning.html
3. Upstream Oxygen (O2) or Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor - In some instances, the upstream O2 or A/F sensor may fail to read correctly from wear. In general, these sensors are good for approximately 100K miles and any mileage over that is borrowed time. The symptoms of failure caused by a bad O2 or A/F sensor vary greatly. The repair is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-upstream-oxygen-sensor-replacement.html
Belt Noise and/or Belt Drive Noise
The close second most common complaint on these cars is drive belt squeal, squeak, or rattling from the belt drive area. The most common cause of this is a double whammy combination of a poorly designed OEM Bando drive belt AND original drive belt tensioners that fail reducing belt tensioner. In general the issue is that the OEM Bando belt is too long or stretches to easily for the application AND the drive belt tensioner leaks at the piston and no longer keeps adequate tension on the belt drive. Like the intake gasket, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. Replacing the tensioner with an updated OEM tensioner and quality replacement drive belt will fix the issue. If you only have an issue with belt squeal and appear to have a non defective or updated tensioner, replacing the drive belt only is likely a good idea. If you have a bad tensioner and a belt that isn't brand new, replacing both is a good idea. The repair is covered in the following DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...3-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-drive-belt-tensioner-replacement-w-pics.html
Engine Oil Leaks
With age these engines can leak oil.
1. Timing Chain Tensioner O-Ring - The most common oil leak on a 1ZZFE or 2ZZGE engine is the timing chain tensioner o-ring. With age, the tensioner o-ring becomes more "square" and allows oil to slowly seep past. Since the leak is so slow, you will most often find a saturated rear of the engine with little to no oil leaks on the ground. Like some of the other issues, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. The repair is covered in the DIY below:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-timing-chain-tensioner-replacement.html
2. Valve Cover Gasket - Like most gaskets, with age the valve cover gasket will eventually leak. Since as of this writing, the newest version of these cars is nearly 8 years old, finding one without a valve cover gasket leak is growing increasingly difficult. This repair is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-valve-cover-replacement-w-pics.html
3. Timing Chain Cover Seal - While relatively rare, there have been enough postings to merit me adding it to the thread. With age, some 1ZZFE or 2ZZGE engines will develop at the timing chain cover. In general, these leaks develop near the upper rear portion of the cover, mimicking a valve cover or chain tensioner leak. This repair is relatively involved and requires removing most parts from the front of the engine to remove the cover. The cover is resealable with the engine in the car on 1ZZFE models and MAY be resealable with the engine in the car on 2ZZGE models. There is currently no DIY to cover this, you will need a repair manual and/or good general automotive knowledge.
Broken Center Console Storage
There are two storage compartments in the center dash area. Based on a combination of improper use and the older (weaker) design. There are a couple of repair strategies which include replacement of the console with a different console or updated console or repairing the console in certain conditions. Removal and replacement of the console is covered in the console repair DIY below:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-dorman-center-storage-console-repair-kit-installation-w-pics.html
Transmission Issues
Nearly ALL transmission issues with automatic or manual transmissions are caused by not changing the fluid/oil at proper intervals. 2003-2004 models in particular, are more susceptible to issues related to transmission maintenance, but all models can experience issues.
1. Manual Transmissions - If you take the internet as an example, you would believe that the C59 transmission is one of the worst transmissions in existence. There is no shortage of search results concerning blown up C59 transmissions, especially 2003 models. Based on my experience and the overwhelming postings of people who have had issues, non existent transmission maintenance is the primary cause. With the exception of a select few posters, all posters who blew up a C59 never changed the oil. With reasonable maintenance intervals, the C59 has shown to have normal reliability. In addition to that and contrary to Toyota recommendations, GL5 is not advised to be used in the C59 transmission. Recommended oils will be found in the maintenance thread below: GL4 should only be used. The fluid change is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2008/425284-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-manual-trans-service.html
Transmission and clutch replacement are covered here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...03-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-c59-clutch-rear-seal-replacment-w-pics.html
2. Automatic Transmissions - The automatics have significantly less reported issues than manual transmissions, but according to internet are not trouble free. But just like the manual transmissions, it is nearly impossible to find a poster who had an issue, report any transmission maintenance. Like the manual transmissions, early models (2003-2004) are affected a lot more than newer models. The most common complaint is a P0741 check engine light with no running issues. Other issues like slipping or flare may also result. Most issues can be repaired with a simple fluid replacement. Some models have also been know to break the shifter cable connection to the shifter. This results in the inability to get the car out of park, drive, etc. The fix for the cable is very easy. See the DIYs below for the services/repairs:
Transmission flush and filter replacement:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-vibe-transmission-fluid-strainer-replacement.html
Transmission replacement:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-a245e-a246e-auto-trans-replacement-w-pics.html
Shifter Cable Fix:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1.../640050-gear-shift-doesn-t-actually-change-gears-linkage-problem-automatic.html - Fix 1
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...n-matrix-2003-2008/1113586-auto-trans-gear-selector-not-working-fix-photos.html - Fix 2
General Issues
Like any used vehicles, general practices should be checked and followed.
1. Maintenance History - I would not buy any car without a maintenance history unless the car is priced at a level worth the risk, the car was inspected, and the car was test driven. A good solid maintenance history can tell you more about a vehicle than any salesman could ever dream.
2. Title History - Like any car purchase, you want to check whether the title is "Clean" or "Rebuilt". While a "Clean" title does not guarantee a trouble free purchase and a "Rebuilt" does not guarantee issues, weighing the decision should be based on price, history, repair validation, and inspection.
3. Overall Inspection - Again, with any car purchase, the vehicle should be inspected. When buying a car, some authority who understands vehicles, should inspect the vehicle to look for major problems that could cost more than you are willing or able to pay for the vehicle. A good independent mechanic inspection of the vehicle may save thousands of dollars in costs, hours of time, and invaluable amounts of stress. Checking things like brakes, struts, rust, wiring, driveability, and an check engine light inspection are invaluable.
4. Overall Maintenance - Like any car purchase, an owner should make sure maintenance is up to date. Things like fluid changes (Coolant, Oil, Power Steering, Brake, Transmission), spark plug replacement, brake adjustment, small repairs (wipers, bulbs, cleaning, etc.), and an overall freshening up can save thousands in maintenance related repair bills. Our maintenance thread and DIY section covers recommended parts, fluids, and intervals for these many of these items. As a general rule, I do the following on every car purchase I make:
1. Switch to Synthetic Oil - I prefer a good quality, well priced, widely available synthetic like Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Mobil 1, or Quaker State Ultimate Durability, combined with oversized high quality oil filters like Fram Ultra, Purolator PureOne, or Mobil 1.
2. Change engine coolant - Use a quality Asian Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology Coolant (P-HOAT). If the system has pink or red OEM coolant, do a drain and fill. If the coolant is green or some other color, do a full flush.
3. Change power steering fluid - Use a high quality Dexron III compatible automatic transmission fluid (ATF). I like Valvoline Maxlife for all my ATF applications.
4. Change transmission fluid or oil - Drain and fill on manual transmission or flush on automatics using the "pump and flush" method.
5. Change brake fluid - Full fluid flush with a good DOT4 fluid (if available) or high quality DOT3.
6. Change spark plugs (depending on mileage) - If no history of replacement and over 100K - 120K miles, I would replace them. Use a high quality Iridium spark plug. I personally prefer Denso Iridium TT for their price, longevity, and my experience with them.
7. Replace the thermostat - If no history of replacement and over 100K - 120K miles, I would replace it. Use only an OEM Toyota or OEM supplier (Kuzeh, Tama, etc ).
8. Replace blown light bulbs - Convert all non driving lights (tag lights, interior lights, trunk light, map light) to LED and replace any worn driving lights. If the headlights are original 9006 bulbs, replace them with Philip HIR2 (9012) bulbs.
9. Replace wiper blades - I convert all my vehicles to the new Toyota/Denso Designer wiper blades. The sizes can be found in the maintenance thread below.
10. Any other minor maintenance - If brakes are worn, replace them. If struts are blown, replace them. If headlights are hazed, restore them. Fix small problems.
Please see the maintenance thread below for good parts recommendations:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...29745-read-me-official-9th-gen-maintenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html
Please see the following thread for a complete list of DIY links:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-read-first-official-9th-gen-corolla-1st-gen-matrix-diy-forum-info-sticky.html
This thread is not a complete listing off all problems associated with these vehicles, for some rare issues there are threads that have to be searched. The point of this thread is to assist an owner, new owner, or potential buyer of what they can expect as far as problems go, when dealing with these vehicles.
Feel free to PM or reply with any additions and I will see if I can get to them.
Here goes!
Common issues:
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean Code
This lean code is likely the most common single complaint with these cars. This code is usually also associated with other issues like rough idle, lack of power when depressing the gas pedal, poor fuel economy, slightly good fuel economy, and additional codes.
Common repairs for this issue include the following:
1. Intake Manifold Gasket - The single most common cause of this code is a leaking original intake manifold gasket on 1ZZFE models. The original black nitrile rubber gasket was not designed for the environment of the intake manifold. Toyota released an updated intake manifold gasket made of orange silicone. On an original gasket, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. This extremely cheap repair may also be responsible for other codes like misfire codes, oxygen sensor codes, and other codes. The gasket repair is lifetime and will not result in future repairs for its failure. This repair is very inexpensive and is covered in the following DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...9-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-intake-gasket-replacement-pics.html
2. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor - Over time, the Mass Air Flow sensor can become dirty from the accumulation of dirt on the sensing wire. This is ESPECIALLY common on vehicles with oiled engine air filters like K&N. The most common complaint with a dirty MAF sensor is a P0171 AND a lack of power when accelerating. The repair is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2130-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-maf-sensor-removal-cleaning.html
3. Upstream Oxygen (O2) or Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor - In some instances, the upstream O2 or A/F sensor may fail to read correctly from wear. In general, these sensors are good for approximately 100K miles and any mileage over that is borrowed time. The symptoms of failure caused by a bad O2 or A/F sensor vary greatly. The repair is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-upstream-oxygen-sensor-replacement.html
Belt Noise and/or Belt Drive Noise
The close second most common complaint on these cars is drive belt squeal, squeak, or rattling from the belt drive area. The most common cause of this is a double whammy combination of a poorly designed OEM Bando drive belt AND original drive belt tensioners that fail reducing belt tensioner. In general the issue is that the OEM Bando belt is too long or stretches to easily for the application AND the drive belt tensioner leaks at the piston and no longer keeps adequate tension on the belt drive. Like the intake gasket, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. Replacing the tensioner with an updated OEM tensioner and quality replacement drive belt will fix the issue. If you only have an issue with belt squeal and appear to have a non defective or updated tensioner, replacing the drive belt only is likely a good idea. If you have a bad tensioner and a belt that isn't brand new, replacing both is a good idea. The repair is covered in the following DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...3-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-drive-belt-tensioner-replacement-w-pics.html
Engine Oil Leaks
With age these engines can leak oil.
1. Timing Chain Tensioner O-Ring - The most common oil leak on a 1ZZFE or 2ZZGE engine is the timing chain tensioner o-ring. With age, the tensioner o-ring becomes more "square" and allows oil to slowly seep past. Since the leak is so slow, you will most often find a saturated rear of the engine with little to no oil leaks on the ground. Like some of the other issues, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. The repair is covered in the DIY below:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-timing-chain-tensioner-replacement.html
2. Valve Cover Gasket - Like most gaskets, with age the valve cover gasket will eventually leak. Since as of this writing, the newest version of these cars is nearly 8 years old, finding one without a valve cover gasket leak is growing increasingly difficult. This repair is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-valve-cover-replacement-w-pics.html
3. Timing Chain Cover Seal - While relatively rare, there have been enough postings to merit me adding it to the thread. With age, some 1ZZFE or 2ZZGE engines will develop at the timing chain cover. In general, these leaks develop near the upper rear portion of the cover, mimicking a valve cover or chain tensioner leak. This repair is relatively involved and requires removing most parts from the front of the engine to remove the cover. The cover is resealable with the engine in the car on 1ZZFE models and MAY be resealable with the engine in the car on 2ZZGE models. There is currently no DIY to cover this, you will need a repair manual and/or good general automotive knowledge.
Broken Center Console Storage
There are two storage compartments in the center dash area. Based on a combination of improper use and the older (weaker) design. There are a couple of repair strategies which include replacement of the console with a different console or updated console or repairing the console in certain conditions. Removal and replacement of the console is covered in the console repair DIY below:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-dorman-center-storage-console-repair-kit-installation-w-pics.html
Transmission Issues
Nearly ALL transmission issues with automatic or manual transmissions are caused by not changing the fluid/oil at proper intervals. 2003-2004 models in particular, are more susceptible to issues related to transmission maintenance, but all models can experience issues.
1. Manual Transmissions - If you take the internet as an example, you would believe that the C59 transmission is one of the worst transmissions in existence. There is no shortage of search results concerning blown up C59 transmissions, especially 2003 models. Based on my experience and the overwhelming postings of people who have had issues, non existent transmission maintenance is the primary cause. With the exception of a select few posters, all posters who blew up a C59 never changed the oil. With reasonable maintenance intervals, the C59 has shown to have normal reliability. In addition to that and contrary to Toyota recommendations, GL5 is not advised to be used in the C59 transmission. Recommended oils will be found in the maintenance thread below: GL4 should only be used. The fluid change is covered in the below DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2008/425284-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-manual-trans-service.html
Transmission and clutch replacement are covered here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...03-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-c59-clutch-rear-seal-replacment-w-pics.html
2. Automatic Transmissions - The automatics have significantly less reported issues than manual transmissions, but according to internet are not trouble free. But just like the manual transmissions, it is nearly impossible to find a poster who had an issue, report any transmission maintenance. Like the manual transmissions, early models (2003-2004) are affected a lot more than newer models. The most common complaint is a P0741 check engine light with no running issues. Other issues like slipping or flare may also result. Most issues can be repaired with a simple fluid replacement. Some models have also been know to break the shifter cable connection to the shifter. This results in the inability to get the car out of park, drive, etc. The fix for the cable is very easy. See the DIYs below for the services/repairs:
Transmission flush and filter replacement:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-vibe-transmission-fluid-strainer-replacement.html
Transmission replacement:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-a245e-a246e-auto-trans-replacement-w-pics.html
Shifter Cable Fix:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1.../640050-gear-shift-doesn-t-actually-change-gears-linkage-problem-automatic.html - Fix 1
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...n-matrix-2003-2008/1113586-auto-trans-gear-selector-not-working-fix-photos.html - Fix 2
General Issues
Like any used vehicles, general practices should be checked and followed.
1. Maintenance History - I would not buy any car without a maintenance history unless the car is priced at a level worth the risk, the car was inspected, and the car was test driven. A good solid maintenance history can tell you more about a vehicle than any salesman could ever dream.
2. Title History - Like any car purchase, you want to check whether the title is "Clean" or "Rebuilt". While a "Clean" title does not guarantee a trouble free purchase and a "Rebuilt" does not guarantee issues, weighing the decision should be based on price, history, repair validation, and inspection.
3. Overall Inspection - Again, with any car purchase, the vehicle should be inspected. When buying a car, some authority who understands vehicles, should inspect the vehicle to look for major problems that could cost more than you are willing or able to pay for the vehicle. A good independent mechanic inspection of the vehicle may save thousands of dollars in costs, hours of time, and invaluable amounts of stress. Checking things like brakes, struts, rust, wiring, driveability, and an check engine light inspection are invaluable.
4. Overall Maintenance - Like any car purchase, an owner should make sure maintenance is up to date. Things like fluid changes (Coolant, Oil, Power Steering, Brake, Transmission), spark plug replacement, brake adjustment, small repairs (wipers, bulbs, cleaning, etc.), and an overall freshening up can save thousands in maintenance related repair bills. Our maintenance thread and DIY section covers recommended parts, fluids, and intervals for these many of these items. As a general rule, I do the following on every car purchase I make:
1. Switch to Synthetic Oil - I prefer a good quality, well priced, widely available synthetic like Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Mobil 1, or Quaker State Ultimate Durability, combined with oversized high quality oil filters like Fram Ultra, Purolator PureOne, or Mobil 1.
2. Change engine coolant - Use a quality Asian Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology Coolant (P-HOAT). If the system has pink or red OEM coolant, do a drain and fill. If the coolant is green or some other color, do a full flush.
3. Change power steering fluid - Use a high quality Dexron III compatible automatic transmission fluid (ATF). I like Valvoline Maxlife for all my ATF applications.
4. Change transmission fluid or oil - Drain and fill on manual transmission or flush on automatics using the "pump and flush" method.
5. Change brake fluid - Full fluid flush with a good DOT4 fluid (if available) or high quality DOT3.
6. Change spark plugs (depending on mileage) - If no history of replacement and over 100K - 120K miles, I would replace them. Use a high quality Iridium spark plug. I personally prefer Denso Iridium TT for their price, longevity, and my experience with them.
7. Replace the thermostat - If no history of replacement and over 100K - 120K miles, I would replace it. Use only an OEM Toyota or OEM supplier (Kuzeh, Tama, etc ).
8. Replace blown light bulbs - Convert all non driving lights (tag lights, interior lights, trunk light, map light) to LED and replace any worn driving lights. If the headlights are original 9006 bulbs, replace them with Philip HIR2 (9012) bulbs.
9. Replace wiper blades - I convert all my vehicles to the new Toyota/Denso Designer wiper blades. The sizes can be found in the maintenance thread below.
10. Any other minor maintenance - If brakes are worn, replace them. If struts are blown, replace them. If headlights are hazed, restore them. Fix small problems.
Please see the maintenance thread below for good parts recommendations:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...29745-read-me-official-9th-gen-maintenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html
Please see the following thread for a complete list of DIY links:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-read-first-official-9th-gen-corolla-1st-gen-matrix-diy-forum-info-sticky.html
This thread is not a complete listing off all problems associated with these vehicles, for some rare issues there are threads that have to be searched. The point of this thread is to assist an owner, new owner, or potential buyer of what they can expect as far as problems go, when dealing with these vehicles.
Feel free to PM or reply with any additions and I will see if I can get to them.