Toyota Forum banner

2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe: Common Problems and Potential Buyer Thread

55K views 172 replies 45 participants last post by  TheAsa3066  
#1 · (Edited)
I am making this thread to discuss common problems owners can expect to see or potential buyers should look out for when considering the purchase of a 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, or Pontiac Vibe. Most of these issues are 1ZZFE specific, but some may also apply to XRS or Pontiac Vibe GT models. Some of these tips will also apply to 2000-2005 Celica and MR2 models, as well as other Toyota models.

Here goes!

Common issues:


P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean Code

This lean code is likely the most common single complaint with these cars. This code is usually also associated with other issues like rough idle, lack of power when depressing the gas pedal, poor fuel economy, slightly good fuel economy, and additional codes.

Common repairs for this issue include the following:

1. Intake Manifold Gasket - The single most common cause of this code is a leaking original intake manifold gasket on 1ZZFE models. The original black nitrile rubber gasket was not designed for the environment of the intake manifold. Toyota released an updated intake manifold gasket made of orange silicone. On an original gasket, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. This extremely cheap repair may also be responsible for other codes like misfire codes, oxygen sensor codes, and other codes. The gasket repair is lifetime and will not result in future repairs for its failure. This repair is very inexpensive and is covered in the following DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...9-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-intake-gasket-replacement-pics.html

2. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor - Over time, the Mass Air Flow sensor can become dirty from the accumulation of dirt on the sensing wire. This is ESPECIALLY common on vehicles with oiled engine air filters like K&N. The most common complaint with a dirty MAF sensor is a P0171 AND a lack of power when accelerating. The repair is covered in the below DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2130-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-maf-sensor-removal-cleaning.html

3. Upstream Oxygen (O2) or Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor - In some instances, the upstream O2 or A/F sensor may fail to read correctly from wear. In general, these sensors are good for approximately 100K miles and any mileage over that is borrowed time. The symptoms of failure caused by a bad O2 or A/F sensor vary greatly. The repair is covered in the below DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-upstream-oxygen-sensor-replacement.html


Belt Noise and/or Belt Drive Noise

The close second most common complaint on these cars is drive belt squeal, squeak, or rattling from the belt drive area. The most common cause of this is a double whammy combination of a poorly designed OEM Bando drive belt AND original drive belt tensioners that fail reducing belt tensioner. In general the issue is that the OEM Bando belt is too long or stretches to easily for the application AND the drive belt tensioner leaks at the piston and no longer keeps adequate tension on the belt drive. Like the intake gasket, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. Replacing the tensioner with an updated OEM tensioner and quality replacement drive belt will fix the issue. If you only have an issue with belt squeal and appear to have a non defective or updated tensioner, replacing the drive belt only is likely a good idea. If you have a bad tensioner and a belt that isn't brand new, replacing both is a good idea. The repair is covered in the following DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...3-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-drive-belt-tensioner-replacement-w-pics.html


Engine Oil Leaks

With age these engines can leak oil.

1. Timing Chain Tensioner O-Ring - The most common oil leak on a 1ZZFE or 2ZZGE engine is the timing chain tensioner o-ring. With age, the tensioner o-ring becomes more "square" and allows oil to slowly seep past. Since the leak is so slow, you will most often find a saturated rear of the engine with little to no oil leaks on the ground. Like some of the other issues, this repair is a "not if but when" type issue; it will happen eventually. The repair is covered in the DIY below:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-timing-chain-tensioner-replacement.html

2. Valve Cover Gasket - Like most gaskets, with age the valve cover gasket will eventually leak. Since as of this writing, the newest version of these cars is nearly 8 years old, finding one without a valve cover gasket leak is growing increasingly difficult. This repair is covered in the below DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-1zzfe-valve-cover-replacement-w-pics.html

3. Timing Chain Cover Seal - While relatively rare, there have been enough postings to merit me adding it to the thread. With age, some 1ZZFE or 2ZZGE engines will develop at the timing chain cover. In general, these leaks develop near the upper rear portion of the cover, mimicking a valve cover or chain tensioner leak. This repair is relatively involved and requires removing most parts from the front of the engine to remove the cover. The cover is resealable with the engine in the car on 1ZZFE models and MAY be resealable with the engine in the car on 2ZZGE models. There is currently no DIY to cover this, you will need a repair manual and/or good general automotive knowledge.


Broken Center Console Storage

There are two storage compartments in the center dash area. Based on a combination of improper use and the older (weaker) design. There are a couple of repair strategies which include replacement of the console with a different console or updated console or repairing the console in certain conditions. Removal and replacement of the console is covered in the console repair DIY below:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-2008-corolla-dorman-center-storage-console-repair-kit-installation-w-pics.html


Transmission Issues

Nearly ALL transmission issues with automatic or manual transmissions are caused by not changing the fluid/oil at proper intervals. 2003-2004 models in particular, are more susceptible to issues related to transmission maintenance, but all models can experience issues.

1. Manual Transmissions - If you take the internet as an example, you would believe that the C59 transmission is one of the worst transmissions in existence. There is no shortage of search results concerning blown up C59 transmissions, especially 2003 models. Based on my experience and the overwhelming postings of people who have had issues, non existent transmission maintenance is the primary cause. With the exception of a select few posters, all posters who blew up a C59 never changed the oil. With reasonable maintenance intervals, the C59 has shown to have normal reliability. In addition to that and contrary to Toyota recommendations, GL5 is not advised to be used in the C59 transmission. Recommended oils will be found in the maintenance thread below: GL4 should only be used. The fluid change is covered in the below DIY:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2008/425284-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-manual-trans-service.html

Transmission and clutch replacement are covered here:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...03-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-c59-clutch-rear-seal-replacment-w-pics.html

2. Automatic Transmissions - The automatics have significantly less reported issues than manual transmissions, but according to internet are not trouble free. But just like the manual transmissions, it is nearly impossible to find a poster who had an issue, report any transmission maintenance. Like the manual transmissions, early models (2003-2004) are affected a lot more than newer models. The most common complaint is a P0741 check engine light with no running issues. Other issues like slipping or flare may also result. Most issues can be repaired with a simple fluid replacement. Some models have also been know to break the shifter cable connection to the shifter. This results in the inability to get the car out of park, drive, etc. The fix for the cable is very easy. See the DIYs below for the services/repairs:

Transmission flush and filter replacement:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-diy-2003-2008-corolla-matrix-vibe-transmission-fluid-strainer-replacement.html

Transmission replacement:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-a245e-a246e-auto-trans-replacement-w-pics.html

Shifter Cable Fix:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1.../640050-gear-shift-doesn-t-actually-change-gears-linkage-problem-automatic.html - Fix 1

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...n-matrix-2003-2008/1113586-auto-trans-gear-selector-not-working-fix-photos.html - Fix 2


General Issues

Like any used vehicles, general practices should be checked and followed.

1. Maintenance History - I would not buy any car without a maintenance history unless the car is priced at a level worth the risk, the car was inspected, and the car was test driven. A good solid maintenance history can tell you more about a vehicle than any salesman could ever dream.

2. Title History - Like any car purchase, you want to check whether the title is "Clean" or "Rebuilt". While a "Clean" title does not guarantee a trouble free purchase and a "Rebuilt" does not guarantee issues, weighing the decision should be based on price, history, repair validation, and inspection.

3. Overall Inspection - Again, with any car purchase, the vehicle should be inspected. When buying a car, some authority who understands vehicles, should inspect the vehicle to look for major problems that could cost more than you are willing or able to pay for the vehicle. A good independent mechanic inspection of the vehicle may save thousands of dollars in costs, hours of time, and invaluable amounts of stress. Checking things like brakes, struts, rust, wiring, driveability, and an check engine light inspection are invaluable.

4. Overall Maintenance - Like any car purchase, an owner should make sure maintenance is up to date. Things like fluid changes (Coolant, Oil, Power Steering, Brake, Transmission), spark plug replacement, brake adjustment, small repairs (wipers, bulbs, cleaning, etc.), and an overall freshening up can save thousands in maintenance related repair bills. Our maintenance thread and DIY section covers recommended parts, fluids, and intervals for these many of these items. As a general rule, I do the following on every car purchase I make:

1. Switch to Synthetic Oil - I prefer a good quality, well priced, widely available synthetic like Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra, Mobil 1, or Quaker State Ultimate Durability, combined with oversized high quality oil filters like Fram Ultra, Purolator PureOne, or Mobil 1.

2. Change engine coolant - Use a quality Asian Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology Coolant (P-HOAT). If the system has pink or red OEM coolant, do a drain and fill. If the coolant is green or some other color, do a full flush.

3. Change power steering fluid - Use a high quality Dexron III compatible automatic transmission fluid (ATF). I like Valvoline Maxlife for all my ATF applications.

4. Change transmission fluid or oil - Drain and fill on manual transmission or flush on automatics using the "pump and flush" method.

5. Change brake fluid - Full fluid flush with a good DOT4 fluid (if available) or high quality DOT3.

6. Change spark plugs (depending on mileage) - If no history of replacement and over 100K - 120K miles, I would replace them. Use a high quality Iridium spark plug. I personally prefer Denso Iridium TT for their price, longevity, and my experience with them.

7. Replace the thermostat - If no history of replacement and over 100K - 120K miles, I would replace it. Use only an OEM Toyota or OEM supplier (Kuzeh, Tama, etc ).

8. Replace blown light bulbs - Convert all non driving lights (tag lights, interior lights, trunk light, map light) to LED and replace any worn driving lights. If the headlights are original 9006 bulbs, replace them with Philip HIR2 (9012) bulbs.

9. Replace wiper blades - I convert all my vehicles to the new Toyota/Denso Designer wiper blades. The sizes can be found in the maintenance thread below.

10. Any other minor maintenance - If brakes are worn, replace them. If struts are blown, replace them. If headlights are hazed, restore them. Fix small problems.

Please see the maintenance thread below for good parts recommendations:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...29745-read-me-official-9th-gen-maintenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html

Please see the following thread for a complete list of DIY links:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-read-first-official-9th-gen-corolla-1st-gen-matrix-diy-forum-info-sticky.html

This thread is not a complete listing off all problems associated with these vehicles, for some rare issues there are threads that have to be searched. The point of this thread is to assist an owner, new owner, or potential buyer of what they can expect as far as problems go, when dealing with these vehicles.

Feel free to PM or reply with any additions and I will see if I can get to them.
 
#2 ·
Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, I was afraid of the manual tranny that's why I asked. Test drove a 05-06 corolla and it's tranny was making a rattling/buzzing noise on deceleration but the noise went away when you press the clutch or accelerate. How are the automatic tranny?


Auto tranny has no serious problems. One thing to look out for, starting in 05, there is the Drive by wire system. Also, the same years and later was the PCM issues. Not sure about the earlier PCM, but the later one controlled the shifting of the auto tranny.
 
#3 ·
Common problems.
1. Intake manifold gasket leak.
2. P0171 system too lean code. Caused mostly by number one but also MAF sensor and EVAP VSV.
3. Rough idle. Caused by 1 and 2.
4. Drive belt tensioner (causes squealing and rattling when failed).
5. Center dash storage lid broken (caused by improper use).
6. Transmission issues (almost universally caused by not changing fluid at proper intervals).

To avoid these problems switch to high quality fluids.

Change your oil to synthetic, use good quality air and oil filters, and that should take care of your engine. Replace transmission fluid every 30k with high quality synthetic for manuals (I like redline MT90) or OEM T-IV or equivalent quality auto trans fluid (I like Castrol Import transmax). Do not use OEM drive belts. Stick to Gates Micro-V or Goodyear Gatorback. Use only Denso or NGK Iridium spark plugs. Use only Toyota pink or Zerex Asians coolant and change it as soon as you buy it.

Follow those steps and check out the DIY section here to learn some stuff, fix common issues, and most importantly save money.
its funny you list the center consol lid, i wacked the crap outta mine after the first few months because it kept closing, its broken now of course but it does stay open, i actually like it broken LOL
 
#4 ·
Thanks for all the great replies. I was debating between getting the 03-05 Corolla or the 01-05 Civic Sedan but they seem to have their fair share of problems too. Some people claim that the 7th gen civic are one of the most unreliable years to get.
 
#5 ·
I would get an 05-08. A lot more kinks worked out, less stuff to break, and still a great price.
 
#7 ·
Way more likely to be affected by a TSB or issue. Obviously older, slightly harder to work on, more parts (due to cable throttle), plus I prefer 05-08 styling by just a little.
 
#8 ·
I had a 2005 honda civic lx, sold it, could never get comfy in it. Bought a 04 corolla s, same material as the civic but fell in love with it, specially with the white gauges. I never had any problem with my corolla except when i would stop and go, sounded like the throttle was sticking or something. I also have a 07 corolla ce that i love 5 speed never had any problems with it!
 
#10 ·
Less space in the engine bay due to more stuff (cruise control assembly and bracketry, more vacuum lines, cables, etc.) generally a little more of a mess near the battery. The 05-08 is a little more clean under the engine bay. Especially a manual trans.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zythr
#13 ·
Looking to Buy 2006 Corolla S Need Help

http://www.anchortoyota.ca/used/Toyota/2006-Toyota-Corolla-e9a271c2404638110145240a277ac135.htm#
Hello All,

I am going to be selling my 2001 Corolla LE this month and am looking at a 2006 Corolla S. I attached a link to the car above if you wanted to comment on that as well as the price.

My main question is with 71'000km what major or even minor problems come along with this generation. I know the 8th gen had some oil issues and what not. Does this 2006 suspenion and tranny hold up as well as the 2001 did?

Any information is greatly apperciated. Thanks in advance.
 
#14 ·
I bought my 2005 last year with say 156k kilometers on it (converting for you). I now have 241000 km on it. I can honestly say that the two primary problems with the vehicle since buying it have been the intake manifold gasket and the window run channels. The intake manifold gasket was very cheap, the window run channels, eh, not really. Still, I would estimate that I have spent less than $400 on non-routine maintenance and repairs.

This car is a good every day car - simple, never breaks down, and easy to maintain. It is a good quality vehicle. You definitely won't have any problems with oil burning or transmissions 2005 or later.

My favorites:
1) Excellent mileage for weight and displacement, good horsepower and low-end torque. Good gearing.
2) Comfortable...nice added features here and there. Low road noise.
3) Clutch is amazingly smooth to engage.

My "not" favorites:
1) "Meh" stock suspension with solid rear "torsion" beam instead of independent rear.
2) High off the ground to accommodate body kit.
3) Horrible shifter that feels like it's made out of broken sticks and rubber bands, even when parked.
 
#18 ·
2) Comfortable...nice added features here and there. Low road noise.
Check what tires are coming. Low noise is directly proportional to the quality of tires. I have the POTENZA - new but found road noise to be significantly higher than BF Goodrich Long Touring tires I earlier owned. It's stated here that POTENZA are darn good tires.
 
#16 · (Edited)
The 9th gen Corolla is very reliable. I have been driving mine for 6 years now. The only expensive things I've had to replace were tires & one battery. This car by far is the most reliable and inexpensive car I have ever owned. Just make sure the ECU recall was done; as Toyota had some issues with the engines cutting off. DOn't worry about this as it's a free repair from Toyota. I have had my ECU replaced even though I never had any issues; the service guy at my local Toyota dealer stated that the batch number on my ECU indicated that it could fail so they put a new one in. Hope this helps.
 
#17 ·
I agree to everything stated here. 2 things I found different than my previous car: Hyundai which I owned, btw was from 2004, SUV.
a) Engine i.e. 1ZZ-FE is noticeably louder. Many agree this is 1 of the loudest engines for a small / mid-size sedan. The reliability, ease of maintenance in a way offsets this.
b) Shock absorbers - leave much to be desired since I found them to be neither sporty (stiff) or comfort/luxurious (no bumps felt).
 
#19 ·
I admit that tires play a huge role in road noise, but believe me when I say that this car has a lot more sound insulation than its competition. That attracted me a lot when I was test driving these cars. I found it to be comparable or quieter than the 8th gen Civic even.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I am not debating this. In comparison to H. Civic you're right. In fact, I also found steering to be significantly stiffer in Civic. I am used to my Hyundais, i.e. 1st. Santa Fe and then a Sonata. Both of them however were noticeably quieter.
 
#22 · (Edited)
This has been asked before.

Check the maintenance sticky for fluid and maintenance info.
 
#24 ·
first time toyota buyer, second car ever, what to watch for in 2006, 2007

Here are two cars I'm looking at, would love your comment on any issues I may need to be aware of (parts which are failure prone):

2007 corolla, automatic trans, 80k miles, $600 dollars in front bumper damage from hit and run, Gray color, approx. $7500 ... I have a feeling this is going to sell quick

2006 corolla, auto trans, 60k miles, white... $7500 from a dealer, not sure why this has not sold already, perhaps because it is white

the second one seems like a better, deal, let me know what i should watch for as I check these out tomorrow. thanks, excited to join your ranks.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Merged all threads and made into a sticky. Lots of good info already in this thread.

Watch out for white Corollas/Camrys. These cars are not clear coated from the factory so after a few years they look horrible. They require extra maintenance and they still fade at which point nothing works on them short of a repaint.
 
#27 ·
Not that I'm aware of.

Extra waxing and polishing will keep it shining. But these will fade much faster than a Corolla of most other colors with similiar maintenance.
 
#28 ·
Hardtop - sorry for counter question: But are you absolutely sure my 2007 Toyota Corolla S WHITE is not clear coated? The reason I am asking is in this forum I'm seeing comments saying otherwise. Now, that might be true for 10th. Gen. only?
 
#29 ·
Based on several thousand Corollas, Camrys, Tundras, etc that I have worked on as well as my BIL's faded 2001 and neighbors faded (and meticulously cleaned) 2007 (which i service exclusively for almost 2 years) yes I am 100% sure.

Rumor has it Toyota doesn't clear coat black as well but I can't find evidence of that.


http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/178147-white-single-stage-w-no-clear/

That is a letter from Toyota directly.

The only white Toyotas I are with clear are premium vehicles (Avalon, 2nd Gen Highlander, Sequoia) and are almost always Pearl colors.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 00_Corolla
#30 · (Edited)
I'm looking at a '04 Corolla tomorrow with 106k miles. What should I be looking out for (it's an automatic)? Everything I can find suggests there isn't too many issues with the 2004 model in automatic, except possibly 'ticking under the hood' and broken door actuators. Thanks guys.
 
#32 ·
I have a 2006 Corolla SE that I bought brand new. I have to say I would not buy this car again in fact I doubt I shall ever buy another Toyota. Here's the list of problems I've had:
Defective rear window - replaced under warranty end 2007 as defrost stopped working, had to take the car back 5 times to get the dealer to agree do it
Accessory Belt Tensioner - replaced twice (once under warranty, once paid) and is making noise again, seems to last about 2 years
ECM - replaced under warranty in early 2010 (towing $150 that Toyota refused to reimburse), thank god its a standard car as the tachometer was swinging from 2000 - 7000 rpms, scared the bejesus out of me
Shield under rear end / gas tank, support rod rotted through, end 2010. We came up with our own solution of drilling slots and feeding straps through it to tie it back up, otherwise a $700- repair
Intake Manifold Gasket - replaced early 2011
O2 sensor - currently throwing a code, I guess this will be the next expense...
Doors - Trunk - Hood - seams are full of uneven gaps and loose trim (car never accidented or even bumped)
Fan & ventilation got a rattle right away, complained to the dealer at first service, sorry nothing we can do...
I don't believe its normal to have this list of problems on a car in only the first few years of its life..If you're looking for a used car I would recommend a Mazda. We'll be adding another car to the family in 2013 and it will NOT be a Toyota, read Lemon Aid before buying and be forewarned!
 
#33 ·
its not normal to have that many problems. i have a 07 CE with 115K miles on. just had regular fluid changes. ECU replaced under recall.

Still runs like it did the day i got it. Had 100 miles on it when i got it
 
#34 ·
Well I beg to differ on the accessory belt tensioner...I drive down the street and hear every Corolla on the road making that same rattley squeally noise. Glad to hear yours is doing ok and you got the ECM replaced before it went bad. I just broke 115k myself. Planning to hand this car down to my daughter in the fall and chose a new one - I like the Madza 6 or maybe a Mitsubishi...Its not worth selling the Corolla the resale values are in the toilet. I guess that's a good thing for the buyers!
 
#35 ·
2004 Corolla CE 77,000 miles?

Hi all,

I am wondering if 77,000 miles on a Corolla CE is a lot of miles and what should I look for before I buy it. :dunno:
Carfax checks out (no insurance claims on it) I am also bringing it to my mechanic before I buy.

Thanks for your help!
:thanks:
 
#36 ·
Depends on the type of miles. The number is low but if that is all stop and go the car would be worse off than a car that had all highway commutes.

Check out everything.

Common problems include an intake gasket problem causing a check engine light and rough idle that is an easy cheap fix.

Window run problems causing wind noise

Wheel bearings if the car hit a pothole or curb

Drive belt tensioner noise from a defective tensioner.

Drive belt squeak from a stretched drive belt.

Timing chain tensioner leaks from a bad o-ring (easy and cheap fix).

Check out and replace all fluids and do a good inspection for rust and damage.

Check out these threads.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...29745-read-me-official-9th-gen-maintenance-thread-all-you-ever-wanted-know.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...08/424233-official-looking-buy-2003-2008-corolla-what-look-common-problems.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...132-9th-generation-2003-2008/299896-official-9th-gen-corolla-faq-list-diys.html