This is what I can tell you. I have a 04 with the 1MZ-FE engine. The Toyota shop manual states that when replacing the timing belt, the crank shaft pulley has to be positioned a certain way so that there will not be interference between valves and pistons. From that, I would infer that my V6 and probably yours is an interference engine. Other members may have additional information. Regards

 

The non vvti 1MZ is non interference, but I believe fhe vvti version in your 2006 is.


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1) Is the 2006 LE 3.0 V6 a non-interference engine? This appears to be a heavily debated topic, but most guides point to your VVTi 3.0L 1MZ-FE V6 to be an interference engine, but I have not seen anything absolutely definitive.
2) Is the timing belt service absolutely necessary at 90k miles? Define what you mean by necessary. If you are OK with engine replacement after the timing belt breaks, then it is not necessary. If you are fine having the timing belt break at night, 1,000 miles away from home, on a busy highway, without an opportunity to pull over to the side under power, then it is not necessary. If any of this concerns you, then it is necessary. Most will tell you the recommended timing belt change period is established when an estimated 2-3% of timing belts will have failed within that time period. Go double this 90k time period, most will say 50% or more timing belts will have failed within 180k. The 1MZ-FE engine does not appear to have a lot of forum people talking about a timing belt failure and what the consequences are though. I haven't seen a thread where a 1MZ-FE timing belt failure bent valves yet. I have a 2003 1MZ-FE engine w/o VVTi, which I am pretty sure in not interference. I would love for someone with a 2003-1/2 on up 1MZ-FE to chime in if they had ever experienced a timing belt failure, and what the result was for the engine.

I've read in several different places contradictory information on the interference/non-interference of this engine/year and don't know which is true.

Thanks

 

1. From Toyota literature only the 3MZFE 3.3 Liter is an interference engine. This is because the domed piston design. The 60 degree timing change when replacing the belt is only supposed to apply to these engines. I have done a crap load of 1MZFE most VVT-i timing belts and have seen plenty break. They are not interference.

2. It is not absolutely necessary to replace the timing belt. But the water pump could be leaking and destroying the timing belt making you one of those that would have a break down. Replace the belt and go another 90K miles.

 

By necessary, what I mean is if I were to not do the service, and the belt broke, would the engine be caput. The Toyota dealership where we originally purchased the car in 2006 and had all the maintence done through 60k by service agreement quoted just under $900 to replace the belt and water pump at the same time. The car is driven between 200 and 250 miles a week commuting back and forth to work and all road trips are in the family minivan so being stranded isn't really a concern rather just the $900 maintence vs. $4000 engine replacement.

 

No engine replacement is necessary even if it was interference. At most you would need head work which is doable. In your case it isn't good advice to tell you not to replace the belt. If you broke down during a a blizzard or hurricane it wouldn't be good. 900 is too much money. But the parts yourself and shop the labor. You can get an entire timing belt set with a water pump and front seals for around 200 bucks. It's not 700 in labor to replace.

 

gen 5 camry has timing chain not belt

 

No that is wrong. Gen 5 Camry has either or belt or chain depending on the engine.

4 cyl 2AZFE=Timing Chain
6 Cyl 1MZFE or 3MZFE=Timing Belt

 

Here is a very nice kit which includes all OEM parts (without the Toyota name) and includes every conceivable thing you need except 2 gallons of coolant. I would buy this kit.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=250993363438&index=5&nav=SEARCH&nid=07296552194

No tensioner

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=300662788768&index=22&nav=SEARCH&nid=82087749448

No tensioner or thermostat.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=300662765687&index=5&nav=SEARCH&nid=82087749448

No front seals or drive belts

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=250993183696&index=10&nav=SEARCH&nid=82087749448

I have used these kits and the parts are identical to factory.

 

I'll give you a thanks. Your experiences top anybody's guesses. I wonder why there is so little forum thread activity regarding broken timing belts on 1MZ-FE engines though, given you've seen some many broken ones. Good job!!

 

As a matter of fact every broken timing belt I ever saw was from either a locked idler pulley or water pump after a crap load of miles. You will be surprised how many miles someone can put on a Toyota.

 

I've got 162,000 on my 1MZ-FE, and I'm pretty sure the timing belt is original yet. Change coolant every 2 years, which helps the pump last a little longer. But I know if I keep the car past this summer, a front-end engine maintenance service is on my list to do. I don't want to be stranded, or worse yet, be in a traffic situation where I loose an engine at the wrong time.

 

I had a 91 corrolla, replaced belt at 60k and belt broke 67k later at 127k. Moms 93 4 cyl camry went 90k til first change. My opinion, anything over 60k is bonus time, when it breaks you are dead in the water, luckily car rolled to a stop in front o fa bar, it was a SUN and it was the only thing open for miles. This was 97 before i had a cell phone.

 

Newer belts are much better than older belts. They are Kevlar lines and actually last forever unless something else fails.

 

If I'm not mistaken, recommended replacement was 60k miles prior to '99, but it's 90k miles for '99+.

My guide says the 3.0 - 1mzfe is non interference (even says the vvti as well), but the 3.3 IS interference.

I have a SEVERELY neglected '02 Sienna 1mzfe vvti with 180,000 miles on it.
Original timing belt
Original water pump
Original everything, except spark plugs, HO2 & O2 sensors, lower control arms (twice) and the normal quick maintenance items (not including plugs!).
If I must say anything, it is that I well never knock a Toyota timing belt!
I just bought a ton of parts from the dealership, due to synthetic oil jacking the engine...
I could have saved money on the timing belt and pulleys, but like I said 180k miles on the original Toyota belt! I'm not going to mess around there just to save money!

Also, I've read about people having horror stories with aftermarket belt tensioners, so if you're doing it yourself, it would behoove you to get the OE brand. I believe it is NTN, which Napa Carries too. I just ordered from the dealership with the rest of my stuff. A lot of those timing kits come with different manufactures' parts, so be sure to check. I was going to order one from napa with the Aisin water pump (OE), but I didn't because of the pulleys, belt, and tensioner. I did manage to get the Aisin pump for almost $100 there, instead of the dealership price.

To wrap this up, the belt can go past the recommended 90k miles. Should you? Sure if you can't afford it, but I don't recommend it.
Also, I live in New England (crappy freezing winters and next to the ocean salt) and drive it likea race car (ha ha) when I'm alone... Definitely not easy on this engine, but the belt has held up to this point.


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@hardtop72

Would you have any info on low mileage timing belt replacement, since we are talking about t-belt service intervals? My parents have a '99 1MZ-FE with about 25K miles and it's in great condition with no leaks or noises. I am trying to determine what to replace in the t-belt system given it is 14 years old and there could be dry rot on the belt and dried out grease bearings. For instance, if there are no other problems can I be OK with just replacing the t-belt.

 

Based on your location and my personal beliefs. I would simply do the entire timing belt job (including front seals, water pump, and drive belts). The car has gone 14 years on wearable parts already so no sense in chancing something to save a few bucks at this point.

Not to mention the additional cost to do the rest is small compared to the timing belt job alone since you are already in there.

 

I don't think you need to worry about the bearings being dried out.
That is a ridiculously low amount of miles for the age, so if you're worried about dry rot, you'll probably be fine with just the belt.
The timing belt covers have seals and the bearings are the sealed type as well, so there shouldn't be any dry grease or moisture issues.
If you have the money, I suggest replacing the tensioner and pulleys while you're in there. That way you'll know they are good to go and you have the mileage/age of the new belt to go by for future reference.



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+1 on doing everything while you are in there.

In order to change the water pump, you'll have to additionally take the camshaft gears and rear timing belt cover (metal) off. The camshaft seals will be exposed at this time and you should change them as well (carefully).
So the additional work is minimal compared taking everything (plus more) back out again to do it in the future.

I have 180k on a 2002 and my seals started leaking after a recent synthetic oil change, so I am +1 on changing those while you are in there, maybe even the seal on the crankshaft/oil pump. That was were my leak was the heaviest.

As I said, I have 180k Miles and it was all original. So I also recommend Toyota parts (at least belt and pulleys).
Aisin water pump and NTN hydraulic tensioner. These are the OE manufacturers, just in case you want to look else where than the dealership.

 

Complete t-belt job sounds right. On past t-belt jobs on other makes I've done the complete job, although the t-belt system on the others is not as robust as the 1MZ-FE. For the seals I use my KD pick wrapped with electrical tape. The Lisle brand seal removal tool I tried scratched the cams, luckily is was not in the oil seal area.

Has anyone compared or matched numbers between the Toyota OEM and Aisin kit ? I am looking at the Aisin Kit TKT-024 and checked other the links. I have the drive belts already , but I would need the OEM or NOK seals.

Does the water pump require removal of the studs if the cam gears and back cover are removed? I have conflicting info on this, some sources show removal - some don't. I would rather not chance breakage removing the studs, especially if I have clearance with the cam gears and back cover removed. BTW this is for an Avalon, I don't know if there is extra room underhood compared to the Camry - I doubt it.

 

I'm not exactly sure about the Avalon, as my vehicle is a Sienna, but the studs on my 02 have reverse torx on them so you can use a socket to remove them. You can try using a second (locking) nut from another stud and lock them tight against one another to back the stud out. I was surprised at how easy the studs came out for me.
The long, downward bolts on the mount was the only ones that were tough, but I used my cordless impact to pull them out easily.
Some people have had success by using a piece of wood across the oil pan and jacking the engine slightly to clear the body rail.


I get my parts wholesale, so my prices wouldn't be the same. I did however, compare prices on some OE items that were carried at Napa. I bought the belt, tensioner, and pulleys from Toyota, but bought the Asin water pump from Napa for under $100 (ninety something) with a 20% discount. Napa has the NTN tensioner too. Both were cheaper through Napa, as were the pulleys, but I wanted Toyota pulleys, belt and tensioner since the original had 180k with no issues.
I bought the cam and crank seals from Toyota.
The Carlisle seal puller tool I have sucks on the cams, because of the small opening.
Another backyard method that I used on the crank was using a screw that I carefully screwed straight, in a couple threads and pulled the seal out that way. If you do that, be extremely careful.



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I have never removed the studs on an MZ engine. Simply jack up the engine and remove the bracket then you can remove everything else.

 

@hardtopte72

Thanks for the info about the WP studs.

Do you have any recommendations/experience on either aftermarket or OEM cam/crank seals? They are not part of the Aisin kit. I usually go OEM with this, but if I can find a OEM supplier to aftermarket that could be a good option.

I found some of the other Japanese vehicles use NOK, which are sometimes supplied in a SKF branded package in the aftermarket. But sometimes there is a problem with aftermarket. On the Mitsu 3000GT 6G72 engine, some aftermarket seals leaked right after installation. The inner/outer dimensions were OK, but the seals were designed for opposite shaft rotation. OEM is the best bet on this vehicle.

 

I buy the eBay kits that use KP/STONE/NOK seals. The key is I only buy kits where they list all parts manufacturers. I have done a few already and the kits are exactly like OEM. I am doing an 02 Solara this weekend using this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230952882551?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

100% complete kit. Even has a Toyota thermostat (which I will only go OEM).

As far as seals I have used Timken seals with good success as well when I damaged an OEM seal. Quality looked just as good as OEM. Time will tell how good they are though.

 

OE parts from the Toyota dealership in MA that I bought from:
(These were my part numbers and you should check with dealer)

Cam Seals List: $8.45 each (cost: $6.76)
Toyota P/N: 90311-38034

Crankshaft Seal List: $8.39 (cost: $6.71)
Toyota P/N: 90311-40022

 

Wish I would have thought about looking for OE kits on ebay...

I paid $156.65 (not including tax) for just the Idler and Tensioner Pulleys from Toyota!!!

I'll have to remember that for the next time I'm doing my own vehicle!

 

Made a quick video on how to remove the bracket on the 1MZFE, 2MZFE, 3MZFE without stud removal.

http://youtu.be/mDXj8ORUDSc

 

@ hardtopte72

Great video - thanks. I notice that you didn't even have to loosen the front motor mount bolt to get extra lift. It must be just a small amount of height needed to clear the frame rail. I am surprised that the bracket broke at the bolt holes - is this common?


@redsly

Thanks for the seal p/n s. I'll confirm , but I think the cam seals are different

 

It is very common on rusty vehicles only. Normally the bolts themselves break but since I did the loosen a bit, tighten, loosen, tighten, I managed to save the bolts but toasted the brackets (I had to repair the bolt threads as well). I have done a crapload of these and this is my personal first broken bracket. I have seen a few others but Florida isn't that bad for rust. This car came from the beach or up north.

Concerning the clearance that is correct. You just need to get enough room to maneuver the bracket (and water pump) off of those studs. Toyota is great as overall design and it shows in these engines. Everything is well placed and thought out and nothing comes off as an afterthought.

As for the seals if its any difference to you, that kit I received had in the box 2 Toyota bag Cam seals, 1 Toyota Bag Crank Seal, Toyota box thermostat (with original logo), 1 Toyota box idler (lower which goes to tensioner), 1 Toyota bag belt tensioner, and one Toyota box belt (the other was Mitsuboshi Box but was identical). T-Belt was Mistuboshi (factory), water pump was Aisin (factory), and other idler was Koyo (also factory although some are made by NSK).

All that for 260 bucks delivered in 3 days. It just can't be beat.