81 views and no replies

 

A tad impatient for free advice, eh?

I'd do two drain and fills (~3.5 quarts, each) or detach a trans cooler line and do a complete trans fluid replacement. See other threads and stickies for tips on that.

If the '06 specifies Type-IV fluid--I forget which year Toy switched to WS-- in my opinion you can safely use Valvoline MaxLife synthetic. I used it in my '02.

If WS fluid, I'd use real WS. Valvoline MaxLife synthetic is supposedly a good substitute for WS.

Drive it for 100 miles. If it stops acting up, then enjoy. If it still acts up, add Lubeguard Red per bottle instructions.

If you're really motivated and the above didn't fix the problem, then drop the trans pan and clean the screen and/or change the filter--again don't know if the 5-speed uses a filter. Unless you are very good with say clock making, I'd avoid taking the valve body apart. Many valve bodies are angry Jack in the Boxes waiting to eject all manner of springs and check balls to nether places.

If it still acts up, then drive it until unbearable or until it conks. Consult a professional or AAMCO if you're in the mood to be pillaged.

 

do you think i should replace the filter on the first change, or should i do a full fluid change and then on the 2nd change put the new filter in?

 

I did a quick check at RockAuto--apparently the '06 does have a filter, although the surface area is quite large and for Toy transmissions, probably a lifetime part. A clogged filter would not be my first guess re: your symptoms, but the filter is cheap and it sounds like you got time to kill. so replace it with your first drain and fill.

And a caveat; while fluid in VERY bad condition seems to cause all sorts of shift issues and is a relatively cheap "can't hurt to try it" thing to replace, there are many other mechanical bits that fatigue with age and miles; solenoids, clutch seals, friction materials, pump condition...things a fluid change or elixirs may not remediate.

Lubeguard seems to alleviate minor solenoid stickiness, mild clutch chatter and the like. It certainly helped my '02 in that regard.

 

Ditto on the LubeGard Red...great stuff!

 

http://http://www.toyotanation.com/.../83-1st-generation-2001-2007/357956-2005-highlander-rough-shifting-2nd-3rd.html

Minehttp://http://www.toyotanation.com/.../83-1st-generation-2001-2007/357956-2005-highlander-rough-shifting-2nd-3rd.html does the same.

Check the link out. I'm inclined to believe this is my issue.

 

i'll pick up some lubeguard red and put it in when i do the flush. gonna do 1 flush, then doa nother and filter shortly after.

 

Well I changed the fluid today put 3.7 qts of max life in. Immediately I notice the trans lost the slip and shifts great. The old fluid looked like motor oil coming out so it was bad. I had a filter on hand but for the life of me cannot get a wrench on one of the booger bolts atop the frame. Any way to do this? I really want to change the filter. By looking at this fluid I can imagine the filter is full of badness. I've heard some say to loosen motor mount and Jack up trans? I tried several wrenches a knuckle adapter and anything else I cold find and cannot get a turn on one of the bolts. Luckily I knew they were hard and started on those first. Gave it about an hour of fiddling then put the plug back in and filled with fresh oil. Any pointers would be great!

 

Also I could not find the jack points so I saw a hook underneath on frame and used that it jacked the entire side of the car up to give me room. I had stands also under the front and rear control supports. Are those hooks ok to jack on?

 

I did what you mentioned and loosened up the engine mounts and jacked the engine up enough to deal with those bolts. I took all the hardware off the driver's side mount and also loosened the nuts on the front (below the oil filter) mount to allow for a little more freedom of movement.

 

I removed the bolt from the "dog bone" mount up top, and removed the bolt from the front lower mount beneath the oil filter (had to use a breaker bar to loosen this bolt). Then I used my jack with a 6X6 block of wood under the oil pan to lift the engine a little over an inch. That allowed me to get a wrench on those tranny pan bolts.

 

While you guys have the engine lifted a little bit, it's the best time to replace your lower control arm if they are old or bad. Why did they have to bury that bolt right under the engine mount.