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2010 highlander lift-gate arm broken

59K views 79 replies 38 participants last post by  Sridhara-syama dasa  
#1 ·
Has anyone had the power liftgate arm come detached?
This first happened while under warranty and the solution seemed simple...the dealer reconnected the arm to the liftgate by tightening the screw. (No charge to me, however, because it was such an easy fix, they didnt make any note of the repair on my file. Now, it happened again (over 36k miles and out of warranty) and the dealer has said that the screw on the arm no longer will connect to the power liftgate....solution? Replace the ENTIRE liftgate to the tune of $3200. The dealer is checking with the Toyota rep to see if this is a common problem. Would love to know if anyone else has had this issue, and want to make sure that you get it documented so that you don't wind up with my issue!
 
#2 ·
First, WELCOME to Toyota Nation :welcome: :welcome: :welcome:

This is not an actual answer to your question, but it may be related. There is an older V-E-R-Y L-O-N-G thread/discussion on problems that Toyota was having with the power liftgate... WARNING, did I say that it was V-E-R-Y L-O-N-G. There was a TSB issue concerning that problem, and here's hoping that someone at Toyota will be on your side and associate your discovered problem with the power liftgate TSB, and give you a complimentary repair. The gist of the thread and associated TSB was more concerning how operation of the power liftgate can pull and cause damage at the upper hinges where the liftgate attaches to the roof of the Highlander. Maybe in your case, the "pull" was where you are having problems with the screws. Anyway, you can read the thread that I am referring to here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/122-2nd-generation-2008-2013/416207-tsb-0091-12-rear-power-door-fix.html

Again, welcome to TN.
 
#5 ·
LIft Back Issue

Hi,

Three weeks ago I bought a Certified 2011 Highlander SE with 15K. The Power liftgate arm became detached from the liftgate this past weekend. It looked to me as if the screw became stripped and came out of the hole. Toyota has it currently and is going to send it to a body shop so they can get at the part. Not sure exactly what that means. I am very nervous that they will do a hack job on this and I will be back at 37K miles and they will be telling me I owe then $3200 for a new liftback. I am going to tell them that I have read about this being an issue in other vehicles and if it happens again, there is no chance I am paying for this. I have never hear of bolts getting stripped through wear and tear. Thanks for posting your original question. I will let you know how my repair turns out.
 
#6 ·
Hi,

Three weeks ago I bought a Certified 2011 Highlander SE with 15K. The Power liftgate arm became detached from the liftgate this past weekend. It looked to me as if the screw became stripped and came out of the hole. Toyota has it currently and is going to send it to a body shop so they can get at the part. Not sure exactly what that means. I am very nervous that they will do a hack job on this and I will be back at 37K miles and they will be telling me I owe then $3200 for a new liftback. I am going to tell them that I have read about this being an issue in other vehicles and if it happens again, there is no chance I am paying for this. I have never hear of bolts getting stripped through wear and tear. Thanks for posting your original question. I will let you know how my repair turns out.

I'm glad i didn't get this option in 2011 too many reports on it being a pain in the ass :headbang:
 
#7 · (Edited)
Likewise. Every time I open and close my rear hatch by hand I think about all the problems they have with power hatches. The other thing that impresses me is how much on cars today seems to be constructed in a manner that necessitates the whole unit be replaced. I would not be surprised if, the next time I have a wiper blade replaced, they tell me the wiper is part of the car and I'll need to replace the entire car!
 
#8 ·
I would not be surprised if, the next time I have a wiper blade replaced, they tell me the wiper is part of the car and I'll need to replace the entire car!
But the car is attached to your garage, so you must replace that as well. But the garage is attached to your house.....:rofl:

Those of you still under the 3 yr 36k, should really consider getting the extended service contract through TFS, for short money it could save you some of these big repairs that the Highlander seems to go through.
 
#11 ·
I have a 2010 is this post a good reason to get the extended warranty or is this item not covered? I am on my last month need to decide if I want to spend the $900+, for the hihy.
IIRC, there was a post in the very long liftgate TSB thread that said that this was NOT an extended warranty covered repair. Again, I'm going on a memory that loves to play games on me :facepalm:.
 
#14 ·
This is what most TSB's say about warranty:

APPLICABLE WARRANTY
• This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for
36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date.
• Warranty application is limited to occurrence of the specified condition described in this
bulletin.
Only thing that usually changes is the 36k/3 to 60k/5 for powertrain based TSB's.


As for extended warranties, interpret that as you wish :thumbsup: :D
 
#16 ·
I had this same problem occur on 21 June. I took it to Toyota of Naperville (IL) on 28 June and they said this is the second one they had this week with this same problem of the liftgate pull arm coming loose. The issue requires replacing the entire liftgate to replace this one simple stripped screw. They sent my 2011 HL out to a body shop and when it was returned today, the Toyota emblem was missing from the rear door, and even worse, the liftgate now doesn't open at all. (Before it would go up with power but not down because that is the arm that broke). It is now seized shut after their repair. Toyota of Naperville claims the body shop did not reassemble the tailgate correctly. Obviously, though, the morons at the dealer didn't even both to inspect the work of the body shop or they would have noticed the missing emblem (or perhaps tried to open the door and see if it would work). I have also opened a case with Toyota USA but expect that isn't going to go anywhere. Anyway, this liftgate arm problem looks like another issue for the HL liftgate. I don't know if the 'redesigned' hinges will affect this problem. (I never looked at my hinges to see if they were bent but maybe the torque issue that bends the hinges also impacts this bolt connection).
 
#19 ·
Yes a tsb mine is on back order for my 2011 highlander new rear glass .
Has this particular TSB been posted yet?

I know the power rear liftgate hinge one was posted (had this repaired on our 2011)....

But this is something different? i.e. the liftgate arm disconnects from the body? Is this the power arm on the left side? Does anyone have pics handy to show where the screw fails?

I think the team that designed the hatch should be sent over to Chrysler...

WOW...
 
#22 ·
I only saw two rear hatch TSBs for my 2011, the bent hinges and this one below...which appears to affect the glass hatch portion. I presume you are referring to the TSB below, correct? I'm a bit confused because I thought this one below relates to where the struts attach to the glass, but the description in this thread leaves me to believe it is the power door closer arm that separates from the body, not the hatch glass...

T-SB -0104-11
 
#23 ·
It is the power liftgate arm that became detached.....Looks like the screw came completly out of its fitting. I know of the other TSB's on the hinges, etc and there have been several reports on this formum on the arm but Have not seen a TSB on that. NOT good on a car which is 17 months old!

Into the dealer tomorrow morning....at least it will be a warranty repair.

The other problem with this is that there isn't much room to close the hatch....have to jam the dangling arm in to get it to close!

Golfer Joe
 
#31 ·
I was just reading through this thread out of curiousity (I have a manual gate 2008) but this is the first thing I thought of after reading just the first post.

It seems totally INSANE to me to replace the entire rear gate for a stripped screw hole. Heck, welding a nut on the inside somewhere and using a bolt instead should be about a $2 fix and an hour of labor.

What and wher is this screw/hole, that makes the rear gate trash if it gets stripped?
 
#25 ·
My wife just got her 2010 back today after having it sit in the shop for a week and a half with this issue. A prior poster's quote of $3200 for the service was correct. The cost was covered under our extended warranty. In our case: The issue started with the threads in the door which stripped out over time and would no longer accept the threads on the bolt from the power door arm. Threads on the bolt were slightly stripped as well. Dealer replaced the entire rear door. however they did not use the same model year of rear door for the replacement. I'm new to these forums and am not clear on the model of rear gate they used but it's less contoured. We're going to follow up with the dealer and make sure that was by design. I'm concerned about leaks or fitting issues with the different door.
 
#27 ·
This happened to my 2011 SE as well. Used the power feature to open the door and heard a loudish pop. The arm that powers up the liftgate had popped off as well as the trim around it. It's the small arm that attaches to the left side of the liftgate. I was lucky enough that the liftgate threads were fine. I didn't notice any stripping. On the arm though, it looked as if the last thread or so was stripped. Took it in to the dealer and they got it sorted. Worse case for me was to replace the arm rather than the entire liftgate...which lucky for me was still covered under warranty.

I think the arm had gradually backed itself out of the threads and when it got far enough out with enough pressure it just twisted and popped off. Going forward I will be proactive and tigten the connection now and again. It just might be the end of the world to have to lift the tailgate manually.
 
#28 ·
Yes, strut came off. Sunnyvale Toyota servoce wroter first visit said Toyota would take care of it and that it required entire rear door replacement. When I brought it in, the (different) service writer said Toyota wouldn't take care of it, and they just retightened the nut, and it's come off again, this time blowing off a bunch of interior trim. Anybody know if Toyoda is fixing this outside of warrantee, or if I'm screwed? I have 100000 mile wearrantee, but don't want to spring the $100 deductible if Toyota is fixing this under recall or something.
 
#29 ·
Broken Lift Arm AND rear door hinge

Lift arm broke off and the bolt and screw hole were stripped on my 2011 Highlander Limited. Dealer re-threaded and re-attached but left off the steal washer/plate which they didn't really have an explanation as to why. Service Adviser said it was "fixed" to Toyota Standards. Had to take it back in a week later because they did not replace the door trim properly but that is beside the point. Now when I use the power gate, the arm makes an awful stress noise and I can see the bolt moving in the re-threaded hole. After searching around I found details on the service bulletin regarding the hinges bending. I checked my door hinges and the Driver's side hinge is bent. Taking into service next week for the 3rd time on this issue. Very frustrating.. seems like a poorly engineered door/lift gate mechanism. I expected more from a Toyota.
 
#30 ·
Thanks for the information on the screw de-treading. This just happened to my HL yesterday. I am just over 100k miles...of course this would happen now. I have not tried to fix it by screwing it back it. I will try this and look at the hinges. I am not going to pay $3200 to replace the entire lift gate if that is the only fix.
 
#32 ·
I've stopped using the power function of the rear liftgate/door for quite some time, just manually lift/close the liftgate. Used it manually as I didn't want the hinges to bend. However now the power lift arm has started making popping sounds when I open (manually) and close the liftgate. Can I remove the short lift arm and maybe the motor and continue to manually use the door? Would it still lock normally? Currently as you know, when manually closing the door, the motor still tucks the liftgate into the body and locks it.
 
#33 ·
Lift gate needs replacing

Hi, I just had this issue. My 2011 highlander (purchased November 2010) has under 60K miles and the lift gate needs to be replaced. Total cost: $3900. Toyota is willing to go $1500 on it. My position is that I open the gate maybe twice a month. I feel this is a manufacturing issue, not a use/abuse issue. I have friends with highlanders who have never had this issue.

I believe Toyota should pay the ENTIRE cost of the repair.
 
#36 ·
Hi, I just had this issue. My 2011 highlander (purchased November 2010) has under 60K miles and the lift gate needs to be replaced. Total cost: $3900. Toyota is willing to go $1500 on it. My position is that I open the gate maybe twice a month. I feel this is a manufacturing issue, not a use/abuse issue. I have friends with highlanders who have never had this issue.

I believe Toyota should pay the ENTIRE cost of the repair.
You're way beyond coverage so I would take what Toyota provides. That's why i'm on here to learn about problems and why I took it in early. Sometimes it's best to read up on Tsb to avoid problems down the road.
 
#39 · (Edited)
By the time your waiting on that law suit it would be a long time. I know Toyota takes shortcut's I had lot's of issues on the my then new model year 2000 Tundra brake issues. Guess what Toyota never issued any recall on the brake calipers However they should have but they fixed my issues on a new part much later on. Yes for Toyota to admit to something takes gut's but the reality is they could get away with it and say your out of a claim like Honda does. You know why I don't like Honda it's because they don't care about keeping customers like us happy. My advice to you I would take whatever Toyota provided and just go with it. If the Law suit win's your entitled to a refund it's that simple and life is vastly much easy. Nothing is perfect I can't stress that trust me.