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2020 Toyota Camry Hybrid Possibly Weak 12-Volt Battery Causing Strange Error Messages and Other Issues?

2.9K views 19 replies 9 participants last post by  alta60  
#1 · (Edited)
My 2020 Camry Hybrid LE has 36,400 miles on it and will be four years old in mid-February. I have owned several Prii across three generations, and the 12-volt batteries have lasted 8 or more years. The Camry 12-volt battery is only 4 years old, but today I was not able to start / boot the car. My first thought was that a rear brake job done a few days ago messed up the Camry electronics (more on the brake job below). The dash displayed the message “Toyota Pre-Collision System Malfunction”, after which it displayed “Parking Brake Unavailable”. I was not able to manually engage or disengage the parking brake, and the parking brake light blinked continually. Also, with the brake pedal depressed, I experienced a foot massage as if the ABS was working. The car was “confused” about being in accessory mode versus being turned on, the dash lights flickered and dimmed, and the power windows were sluggish. The headlights were plenty bright so I didn't think there was a 12-volt battery problem.

In early January I heard a rubbing sound coming from the right rear wheel. I use an independent mechanic for basic repairs such as brake pads and rotors. On Monday of this week, my mechanic found the outer right rear brake pad was down to less than 1 millimeter, though the other 3 rear pads were in the 3 to 4 mm range. The right rear rotor was scored. All 4 slides moved freely, so we couldn't explain the single worn pad. In my experience, hybrid rear brakes last over 150,000 miles, so the failure of a single pad was suspicious.

We put the car in “Electric Parking Brake Replacement Mode” as documented in the Toyota repair manual. The brake motors whined and fully retracted (the procedure is very finicky, and it required several tries). My mechanic disconnected the wiring harness from both motors and removed the motors. He then replaced the rotors and pads on both sides, lubed the slides, reinstalled the motors, and reconnected the harness to the motors. We then turned off "Electric Parking Brake Replacement Mode”. The foot brake and parking brake worked fine, and I heard the motors engage when the parking brake button was activated. I left the parking brake in manual mode due to the extreme cold weather we have been having in Massachusetts this week.

On my drive home from the independent shop, a red warning light for the pre-collision system came on. The car was covered in road salt, ice, and water from Monday’s snow storm. The light has come on before, usually with a message to “clean the sensor”. This time there was no message. The light went out at some point, and the pre-collision system worked properly, beeped, and displayed the word Brake when a car in front of me stopped short a day or so after the brake job. The parking brake worked fine all week, and I engaged and disengaged it manually due to the extreme cold weather.

Several days prior to the brake repair, I started the car, drove a very short distance, and both screens displayed the "boot up" images and messages that appear when you first power on the car. I found this very unusual, but it didn’t occur again. Now I wonder if this was indicative of other problems with the electronics.

I planned to have the local Toyota dealer run some diagnostics and service the car. AAA came to tow the Camry to the dealer, but the driver insisted on first trying to jump the car. He claimed to have seen similar warning and error messages on other hybrids that simply had a weak 12-volt battery. I was skeptical, but let him connect jumper cables to the special fuse box connector and the frame. Much to my surprise, the car booted / started right up. All the errors and warnings are gone. I re-enabled automatic mode for the parking brake, and that is also working fine.

This is a lot of background information, but I want to rule out the brake job as being the cause of the errors and warnings.

My short question is, could a weak 12-volt battery be responsible for the car not starting, the “Toyota Pre-Collision System Malfunction” error, and the other symptoms I described?

Thank you,

David Schwartz
Framingham, MA
 
#2 ·
I don't think the brake job is related to anything here, as far as your mechanic followed the right procedure putting the parking brake in service mode. And I think the rear brake pad issue is a separate matter.

The weak battery is a strong possibility. Massachusetts just went through an extreme cold, and leaving the car with the mechanic exposed it to weather, assuming you left the car for a day comparing to your home garage.

The hybrid Camry 12V battery is in the trunk which is a separate unheated area comparing to the older Prius where the battery shares the same cabin warmth with the passengers.

I had the same issue you described but with a 2013 Prius and the jump start solved everything at the moment but did not prevent it from happening again. I ended up selling the car without fixing it.

The same thing happened to a co worker with a 2008 Camry hybrid (car stuck in ignition mode). I gave him a jump start and he was able to drive home. He told me he replaced the battery and the issue never happened.

Coming back to your 2020 hybrid Camry, a dealership diagnostic then clearing the codes with an advanced scan tool may solve the problem in addition to replacing the battery.

The rear brake pad going down to 1 mm in less than 5 years is unusual. May be you had a stuck caliper pin. I still have more than 5 mm in my rear factory pads (2021 Camry hybrid) but I lube the pins and pads tips every summer.

Let us know what happens.
 
#3 ·
Yes, weak 12V definitely will cause no-start and all kinds of warning messages. Now, is that exactly the cause in your particular situation, is no telling, other than trying to jump start off known good battery and see, what happens. Hopefully, it's just that.

BTW, when I owned TCH, rear brake pads went down at around 45 000 miles. So it's not that unusual.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I went into detail about the brake job since I thought it could be related to the error messages. I should have mentioned one issue my mechanic had when trying to exit parking brake service mode. He forgot to reconnect the electric brake motor harness on the left rear wheel before powering on the ignition. The dash displayed a message such as Electric Parking Brake failure contact the dealer. After connecting the wiring harness, it took a few tries to exit service mode, but both brake motors made the whining noise and locked the wheels.

After AAA jumped the car on Friday, I let the engine run for about 10 minutes to charge the 12v battery (I understand it is charged from the hybrid battery). I did not drive anywhere to avoid any risk of getting stranded after dark. Today I used a digital voltmeter to check the 12v battery. The temperature was 12 degrees last night and about 28 when I took the readings. My Camry is parked in the driveway because I keep an antique car in the garage. The 12v battery looks like new and there is no corrosion or deposits around either terminal. With the engine off, the 12v battery reading was 11.93v. The engine started right up with no errors or warnings displayed on the dash, and the battery reading was 14.35v. Both of those seem in the good / normal range.

Yes, we had several bitter cold nights this week. I have driven hybrids in single digit to negative temperatures since 2006 and never had a problem like this before. The Camry battery being in the cold trunk versus the Prius battery in the warm hatchback is a good point. My wife's 2014 Prius still has the original 12v battery, so I should probably replace it now.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the very detailed post and replies - it helps.

I'd like to point out, a resting voltage of 11.93 VDC on a flooded maintenance free battery is not good at all!
This corresponds to a Percentage of Charge of only 5%! Your battery is just about completely discharged; It should be at or above 12.70 volts to be nearly or fully charged. But just voltage alone won't tell you if it can hold that charge long-term.

Ultimate Guide to Battery Voltage Chart - Jackery

EDIT: Here is a picture of my TCH 2023 battery voltage. Likely the exact same battery as you have in the 2020? This was taken at -4 degree Celsius, after car had not been turned on for > 1 hr. I put it on the charger obviously right after - which rated it at 25% state of charge. Glad I checked.
Image
 
owns 2023 Toyota Camry XSE Hybrid
#6 ·
Toyota considers 11.7 critical charge so yes, yours is pretty much there.

Do you have nav unit? If yes, turn system off, press and hold Info button on it, turn system on to Aux mode, and start flipping light stalk quickly all the way On/Off. After about 5 flips, you should be in System Diagnostic screen on nav unit, and you can get to battery condition from there. The way ECM sees it. Remember, Info button has to be pressed all the time, only let go of it when that screen appears. A bit awkward, as you are using right hand to press button and left hand to flip stalk, but doable. Also, you adjust some hidden features from that display.

 
#7 ·
My Camry is an LE and it does not have a nav unit. My phone and Android auto do the job.

I decided to make another voltage check, and drove the car 6 miles on Saturday afternoon. I made one short stop after 3 miles, and powered off, then restarted the car to drive home. The temperature was about 32 F. I turned off the car and immediately checked the battery voltage, which read 12.33 volts. I assumed it would be higher even after a short drive. The temperature Saturday night got down to 24. I checked the voltage at noon on Sunday when the temperature was 38 F, and it read 11.97 volts.

Based on various responses here, the battery does need to be replaced. I searched on this forum and didn't find a top AGM battery recommendation.

The Interstate MTX-47/H5 is an AGM battery.

Autozone sells the Duralast Gold Battery BCI Group Size 47 650 CCA H5-DLG with similar specs for about $75 less.

Batteries plus sells two Duracell models that fit the Camry hybrid.

All are 600 to 650 CCA which seems like overkill for a hybrid. Has anyone installed any of these? If so, are they holding up?

Thanks again,

David
 
#11 ·
All are 600 to 650 CCA which seems like overkill for a hybrid. Has anyone installed any of these? If so, are they holding up?
Yes, these are overkill for our hybrids. I'm not sure why some are purchasing such powerful, expensive batteries for a car that only uses the 12V battery to fire up the computer and tend to the lights and electronics.

The stock factory battery is a simple flooded lead acid with a nominal 540 CCA. I can purchase a Toyota TrueStart battery part # (00544-H5061-540) directly from my dealer which is a direct fit replacement for $124.32 if I use their ToyotaParts web site to order it. Then I just go to the dealer to pick it up. The full MSRP is only $151.27 if I were to skip the website and just go straight to the parts counter to order it. I just don't see any sense in getting anything more powerful for a car that doesn't even use that battery to crank the engine. 🤷‍♂️
 
#10 ·
The Interstate MTX-47/H5 was on my short list. I decided to go with the Autozone #338292 "Duralast Platinum AGM Battery BCI Group Size 47 680 CCA H5-AGM". The specs are a tiny bit better, the price was lower, and my mechanic got it for me at his friends-and-family wholesale price.

 
#12 ·
Ernie,

After only getting 4 years / 36,000 miles out of the original OEM Toyota Camry 12v battery, I didn't want to go with another one. I agree completely that the high CCA replacements are massive overkill. My wholesale friends-and-family price for the Autozone battery was $185, so I can't complain.

I just realized that the 12v battery in my wife's 2014 Prius is original to the car. It has about 92,000 miles on it with a mix of city and highway driving. I would happily replace the Prius 12v battery with a Toyota TrueStart. My local dealer quoted $250 just for the battery.

What is the actual website URL that you order from? There are lots of search hits on "ToyotaParts".

Thanks,

David
 
#13 ·
Ernie,

After only getting 4 years / 36,000 miles out of the original OEM Toyota Camry 12v battery, I didn't want to go with another one. I agree completely that the high CCA replacements are massive overkill. My wholesale friends-and-family price for the Autozone battery was $185, so I can't complain.

I just realized that the 12v battery in my wife's 2014 Prius is original to the car. It has about 92,000 miles on it with a mix of city and highway driving. I would happily replace the Prius 12v battery with a Toyota TrueStart. My local dealer quoted $250 just for the battery.

What is the actual website URL that you order from? There are lots of search hits on "ToyotaParts".

Thanks,

David
I understand. 4 years / 36k miles isn't much to get out of a battery. I'm not sure why it was so short but everybody's user experience is different. I have 6 years and 140k on my 2018 Camry hybrid LE's battery and it's still going strong. I usually get 8-9 years out of the OEM batteries in the cars I've owned. I just replace them when they fail. I keep a Li-Ion jump pack in the car at all times and top it off about every 6 months to make sure it's good. The day my car refuses to fire up is the day I'll get a new battery for it. When it does I'll just throw the jump start on to get going. You can jump it from under the hood so you don't have to access the battery in the trunk to do it. Instructions are in the owners manual.

Here is a link to my dealer's ToyotaParts web site.
LithiaToyotsParts

Most Toyota Dealerships have their own ToyotaParts web site. You'll want to find one that is close enough for you to go to to pick up the parts yourself because shipping can get expensive. In the case of the battery, it must be picked up in person. They all have their own discount offers. Mine just happens to be pretty good.
 
#15 ·
I found the Toyota URL that links to local dealership parts departments.


Entering the vehicle information and part brings up a page that shows the list price (which was less than the dealer service department charges for the battery). Clicking view details and entering my zip code brings up another page showing local dealers that sell the part. Two of the three dealers offered a discount off of list.

I checked a few other parts on this site such as cabin air filters, which were less than I paid for third party filters.
 
#16 ·
I found the Toyota URL that links to local dealership parts departments.


Entering the vehicle information and part brings up a page that shows the list price (which was less than the dealer service department charges for the battery). Clicking view details and entering my zip code brings up another page showing local dealers that sell the part. Two of the three dealers offered a discount off of list.

I checked a few other parts on this site such as cabin air filters, which were less than I paid for third party filters.
I've seen that URL before but the odd thing is that my dealer, Lithia Toyota of Springfield doesn't show up on it for some reason. And the prices are usually better from my dealer, plus it's closer. I can get my OEM Toyota Motor Oil and filter cheaper from my dealer than I can get Mobil 1 and an aftermarket oil filter at my local Walmart.

I took a look at the battery my Camry hybrid came with and was surprised to see how low the CCA was. Only 345A. I guess it doesn't take much to power up the electronics.
Image

Image


BTW, that's a great price you got that AGM battery for. They say they last 2-3 times longer than a flooded battery does. If that proves true you got a good deal. Just be sure to only use an AGM capable battery charger on it if you do ever have to charge it up.
 
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