Allegedly, my battery is fine

How do you know? Was it tested? What are your resting (engine off) volts? What are the engine running volts from the "smart alternator" system? In an 8th gen Camry or 5th gen RAV4 the battery crapping out is always the first thing to suspect when you get a sudden cascade of multiple MID warnings. Those OEM Clarios 12v EFB batteries start to fail at 3 to 5 years especially in hot climates and especially if you never kept the electrolyte topped up with distilled water.

 

Thanks for the feedback, in order:

1. How do you know? Was it tested? Yes, it was tested
2. What are your resting (engine off) volts? 12.50V
3. What are the engine running volts from the "smart alternator" system? This I do not know, but I will find out

I've already replaced the battery once, so this is no longer the original battery - but I am in FL and it has been unforgivingly hot. My car has been sunbathing in 90-degree-plus weather - could this be a culprit? I work remotely and don't have a garage space for it.

Thanks,

 

Take it back to the dealer and tell them it is still doing the same thing that was supposedly fixed. They should stand behind their work and not charge you to fix what they claimed they fixed already.

 

I agree. If the same DTC is still coming up active then obviously that $1k dealer repair did not fix the car. Any reputable dealer should Techstream scan for free and fix it free.

 

And in Toyotas the Check Engine light will trigger other warning lights because they are disabled when an engine fault is detected. Fix the engine code and the other systems will come back online.

 

"I was told I needed new ignition coils, new spark plugs, an injection cleaning, and a tune-up - so I took my write up and had all that done on Tuesday morning. The code driving this repair was P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected."

Unfortunately a diagnosis of the P0302 wasn't done just a recommendation to change parts that may/may not fix the fault.
The P0302 itself needs to be addressed. Since coil/plug changed that leaves fuel as suspect.
Injectors? Direct/port injection?

Did you take the Toyota write up to another shop for repair?

 

Injectors? Direct/port injection? The injector was cleaned, but I can add the direct/port injection to my list of asks.

Did you take the Toyota write up to another shop for repair? Yes, I did take the dealer write-up to another shop for repair, I tend to avoid my local dealer because of their reputation/personal anecdotes. I paid for a full diagnosis at the dealer, and what I shared was essentially a summation of their recommendation and findings.

 

Since you took the Toyota recommendations for repair to another shop doubt Toyota will listen to a come back complaint.
In addition the shop that changed the coils/plugs at your request to fix the P0302 only responsible for actual work done.

Before having another diagnosis find a shop that has the tools to test port/direct injectors.
Direct injectors are expensive probably cost around $600 to replace one.
In addition Toyota OEM coils are expensive but best to use them when replacing.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thank you, will do! I will come back and update this thread with what I learn.

 

Do we know if trouble code P0302 is still being triggered after ignition coils and spark plugs were allegedly replaced? Problem is likely with the battery at this point.

 

What brand did the independent shop use? Coil and spark plugs you could have done youself with a 10min yt video on a 4cylynder car and saved you more than half of that 1k.

 

I appreciate the perspective, learning how to do things myself is definitely an opportunity for me. The parts used were all OEM, but I can confirm again and will share if otherwise - thanks.

 

Been dealing with that code P0302 for about a year now, on 18 2.5 XSE, I'm replaced the #2 coil, move coils around to see if the misfire follows, replaced the plugs. Car still drives, I just can feel/see the random misfire mainly during cold starts/idle/low load situation. about once a week I clear the code and its back to "normal", and all the safeties come back online. A year ago I didn't find any info, so now i'm checking again to see if anyone had this issue before resorting to the dealer, as I believe they'll just do plugs and coils again and just annoy me. I believe it's fuel related, so I'm here researching the fuel system to how to tackle it. from what i've gathered so far, the Toyota D4-S fuel system uses both port and direct fuel injection, it appears the port system handled the low load fueling, and the direct handles the high load situations. since for me it's at idle, I'm going to pull the port injectors and have them checked/cleaned. last thing I want to do is dabble with the direct as i'm not that familiar with the system yet. I just dont want the dealer throwing parts at it, as I can do that myself for "free". PS i worked at a dealer for years, so know my way around a bit.

 

I'd check leakdown cold on all 4 cylinders with an especially close ear to the cylinders adjacent to the misfiring one. The gasket sealing surface between cylinders on then 2ZRd 2AR is pretty small and I've read about issues with loss of compression between cylinders past the head gasket that show up primarily as a cold running issue and get better as the engine heats and expands.

 

Good info on the fuel system, i'm going to move injectors around on the port injection.

 

Port injectors are available from AliExpress for much less... I actually have a set of grey Camry port injectors in stock. I had to get the green ones instead for my M20A-FKS (2.0).

Camry A25A-FKS (2.5)

1pcs High Quality Fuel Injector Nozzle OEM 23250-F2040 23250-F0020 23209-29115 For 2018 Camry - AliExpress 34

Corolla M20A-FKS (2.0)

Free Shipping Original New High Quality Fuel Injector 23250-F2040 For Toyo-ta 2018 Cam-ry Original Fuel Injector - AliExpress 34

 

Interesting, I have not used AliExpress. I always thought if Amazon and eBay is filled with counterfeit more so AliExpress and Temu, I have to check them out.

 

I'd trust engine parts from AliExpress as much as I'd trust the ghost of Richard Nixon to give me winning lottery numbers for the drawing in Havana next week.

 

You just need to realize that they're exactly the same DENSO injectors as the originals, and they're made at the same DENSO factory, complete with DENSO and Toyota part numbers, o-rings, seal... They completely restored mine when I replaced them at 116,000 miles. I've had them in for a while now, and it still runs better than ever. Original injectors had started leaking at about 90,000 miles. They're about 20 times more expensive from Toyota dealer. Oh and I had also replaced my direct injectors for about 20X cheaper than from Toyota as well.

1Pcs Fuel Injector Nozzle 23250-24010 23209-24010 for Toyota Rav 4V A5 H5 2.5 Hybrid AWD Fuel Injector - AliExpress 34

 

Counterfeit Denso parts are RAMPANT, you probably got lucky but a lot of Denso, MotorCraft, ACDelco, etc branded stuff on Chinese marketplaces, Amazon, eBay, etc are fakes.

 

No problems at all with DENSO fuel injectors from AliExpress... For A/F (O2) sensors, you do have to go with Toyota instead of Ebay, Amazon, or AliExpress. DENSO spark plugs came from Rock Auto.

I did however save a small fortune on sensors, and also on front sway bar bushings by ordering genuine Toyota parts through Amayama from Japan.

Buy Genuine Toyota 4881512430 (48815-12430) Bush, Front Stabilizer Bar. Prices, fast shipping, weight - Amayama

 

Clean the Mass Airflow Sensor

 

Added to my list of items to check off, thanks for the suggestion!

 

In all of the above did anyone look at the valves for carbon build up? It may need a manifold off walnut blasting of the intake valves. Any compression or leakdown test is going to miss that. have had good luck with Ali. You have just as much chance of a counterfeit with Rock and Amazon. Understand that with all 3 your are buying from a seller that is only kept inline by complaints.

 

Try Toyota Parts Deal.com

 

 

Hey everyone, I've been lurking in this forum trying to find a solution to my situation and I believe asking in my own thread is the best solution. I am desperate for advice and stuck with a car that isn't working. Yesterday I got these errors in my car:

View attachment 460456

All these lights, plus the check engine light, are on:

View attachment 460455

The backstory is I was already at the dealer for these same issues last week on Monday, after the car yelled and screamed about going to the dealer ASAP displaying the same warnings. I was told I needed new ignition coils, new spark plugs, an injection cleaning, and a tune-up - so I took my write up and had all that done on Tuesday morning. The code driving this repair was P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected.

Enter yesterday afternoon, and everything suddenly reactivates. I'm at a total loss, I just spent $1,000 and these issues are still here. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be the issue? Allegedly, my battery is fine and the ABS is also fine. The vehicle itself drives without issue, it doesn't jerk, stall, or shake. Despite that, I'm not gambling - it's just sitting right now.

Any ideas?

P.S I was only able to find one other thread with my model year (though different trim, I am an LE and it appears theirs is an XSE) and identical error, but this person's thread ended on a cliffhanger. I can't link it, but I will share the title: Pre-collision system malfunction, LTA unavailable, parking break malfunction, & secondary collision break system not working.

Hi befor buying parts the code is P0

Hey everyone, I've been lurking in this forum trying to find a solution to my situation and I believe asking in my own thread is the best solution. I am desperate for advice and stuck with a car that isn't working. Yesterday I got these errors in my car:

View attachment 460456

All these lights, plus the check engine light, are on:

View attachment 460455

The backstory is I was already at the dealer for these same issues last week on Monday, after the car yelled and screamed about going to the dealer ASAP displaying the same warnings. I was told I needed new ignition coils, new spark plugs, an injection cleaning, and a tune-up - so I took my write up and had all that done on Tuesday morning. The code driving this repair was P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected.

Enter yesterday afternoon, and everything suddenly reactivates. I'm at a total loss, I just spent $1,000 and these issues are still here. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be the issue? Allegedly, my battery is fine and the ABS is also fine. The vehicle itself drives without issue, it doesn't jerk, stall, or shake. Despite that, I'm not gambling - it's just sitting right now.

Any ideas?

P.S I was only able to find one other thread with my model year (though different trim, I am an LE and it appears theirs is an XSE) and identical error, but this person's thread ended on a cliffhanger. I can't link it, but I will share the title: Pre-collision system malfunction, LTA unavailable, parking break malfunction, & secondary collision break system not working.

Hi I would suggest that you Swope the plug and coil to another cylinder if they are bad then your problem is the coil and if it keeps on the same code then it is your wiring that has a problem,
Thanks.
Uattam.

 

Hi befor buying parts the code is P0

Hi I would suggest that you Swope the plug and coil to another cylinder if they are bad then your problem is the coil and if it keeps on the same code then it is your wiring that has a problem,
Thanks.
Uattam.

Thanks, I tried this - we swapped all tje parts around for a while and cyclinder 2 kept its issue.

 

I had a similar problem with my Sienna at about 85k. The warning lights had nothing to do with the alerts. The dealer swapped out all the coils and plugs. Never had that issue again. Could be a similar engine.

 

Try to contact AMD "Ahmed" who lives near Chicago, Ill. he is known on You Tube as the Car Care Nut. He is one of the best Online Toyota Vehicle mechanics who may give you possible solutions. Since your Camry is running fine. The Code probably was not Cleared or it's being retriggered from the ??? sensor. What Powertrain do you have. 2.5L Naturally Aspirated., a Hybrid, or 3.5L V6? I can only suggest the MAF since Fuel Injector been replaced. The MAF normally would cause the car to Stall or have Hic-Ups / Jerk. A mass air flow (MAF) sensor, also known as an air meter, measures the amount of air entering a car's engine. It's part of the car's electronic fuel injection system and is essential for the engine to run properly. The engine control unit (ECU) uses the MAF sensor's real-time data to estimate how much fuel is needed to balance the air and fuel.

 

Thanks for the input, the codes were cleared twice now following each repair but they persist. My car is not jerking, but I can add this item to our checklist.

 

That 12.5v at the resting battery sounds very low if the car has been run in the last few days, mine registers 12.8-12.9v over a two day period following a 90-mile drive.

Know that any voltmeter/multimeter costing less than $120 likely has not been calibrated to standards that would assure accuracy within +/- .2v, leaving a question mark as to the real voltage.
Resting battery voltage should be checked such that the hood is left open for 1/2 hour before testing, so that none of the cart's modules are woken up before the voltage is checked. Opening a door for instance wakes up the modules, which draw current, lowering the battery voltage.

Cheap multimeters are ok as long as you have tested it on a couple of newer cars having known-good electrical systems. I always keep a few cheap ones around, each with a correction number printed on it.
If one meter becomes suspect, I have the others to use as a reference.

 

That 12.5v at the resting battery sounds very low if the car has been run in the last few days,

I disagree. I have a 2 month old H6 AGM in my '21 gas model RAV XLE AWD and it's usually at 12.5-12.6V resting after not driving for a few days. 12.6V resting is acknowledged as being a good voltage on many battery and voltage meter charts.

 

An update: I still have this issue. I took my vehicle to the dealer and they frankly proclaimed they weren't sure what the cause was, they told me it would essentially be a bit of a whack-a-mole situation. They would fix items they believed were contributory until the codes uh, hopefully went...away. My next closest dealer is a little under 3 hours away, I don't know if my car can make that trek.

With that development, I returned to my local mechanic. The injector for cyclinder 2 was replaced, official Toyota part - as were the parts used previously. I clarified this based on advice here. The other three injectors were hand cleaned, and my car was fine for about a day. As of this morning, all the errors are back.

I am going to gather the suggestions from this thread and pitch them again, with updates/reports following repairs. The car is, as usual, completely asymptomatic. No noise, jerks, etc - runs smoothly, save for the glaring error messages.

@Tazio Nuvolari @cj1 @invader

 

An update: I still have this issue. I took my vehicle to the dealer and they frankly proclaimed they weren't sure what the cause was, they told me it would essentially be a bit of a whack-a-mole situation. They would fix items they believed were contributory until the codes uh, hopefully went...away. My next closest dealer is a little under 3 hours away, I don't know if my car can make that trek.

With that development, I returned to my local mechanic. The injector for cylinder 2 was replaced, official Toyota part - as were the parts used previously. I clarified this based on advice here. The other three injectors were hand cleaned, and my car was fine for about a day. As of this morning, all the errors are back.

I am going to gather the suggestions from this thread and pitch them again, with updates/reports following repairs. The car is, as usual, completely asymptomatic. No noise, jerks, etc - runs smoothly, save for the glaring error messages.

@Tazio Nuvolari @cj1 @invader

I assume it was port injectors and not direct injectors that were replaced or cleaned?

Were your cylinder # 2 ignition coil wiring and connector thoroughly inspected?

 

little update on mine, I pretty much started over, I checked the compression, had 170-175psi across all for, then I looked at plugs again, they looked like trash with huge gap for putting them in a year ago. I happened to of saved the oem plugs which has like 140k miles on them and they looked 20x better than this "new" set with probably 10k miles on them. I put a the new coil back in #2 and put the old oem plugs back in, it's been about 2 weeks so far, no engine light or misfires. The plugs I installed last year was clearly knockoffs. I attached pics of the plugs I just took out and the high mileage oem from 2018. I'm still unsure if I had a coil or plug issue, as I did them somewhat simultaneously

 

Those plugs don't look like iridium plugs you used to replace the old ones.
Looks like they are supposed to be Denso which is good but if you ordered by model and year you got the wrong plugs to use.

 

T-SB-0010-24 February 21, 2024

MIL ON With Misfire DTC(s) in Cold Temperatures

Some 2021 – 2022 model year Avalon, 2018 – 2024 Camry, and 2019 – 2024 RAV4 vehicles with A25A-FKS engines may have a MIL ON condition with one or more of the following Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) upon cold soak start up with engine coolant temperatures between 14°F – 41°F
(between -10°C and +5°C ):

 P030027 – Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Emission) Signal Rate of Change Above Threshold

 P030000 – Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

 P030100 – Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

 P030200 – Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

 P030300 – Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

 P030400 – Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected


Replace Valve Lash Adjuster Assemblies (Exhaust Side ONLY)

MC-10252262-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov)

Buy Genuine Toyota 1375070020 (13750-70020) Adjuster Assy, Valve Lash. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama

 

a very belated response, but i performed the fixes in this listed recall and they did not resolve my issue. they might work for someone else, though.

 

2025 update: after almost a whole year, my issue was successfully cleared and resolved. the root of my problem was an open coolant bypass valve, it was stuck open. this was caught during a routine service, the valve was replaced, and this remedied the issue - the codes went away.

hopefully this helps someone else!

 

Furthermore, an open coolant bypass valve was not the cause of your P0302 misfire

2025 update: after almost a whole year, my issue was successfully cleared and resolved. the root of my problem was an open coolant bypass valve, it

How could the OP drive for an entire year and NOT know he had a malfunctioning coolant bypass valve? A year before, how could his dealer not find the DTC for a failed valve on the Techstream scan? That's BS! OP would have had the "ENGINE maintenance required" notice on his MID screen which always appears with a failed bypass valve. It is not shown in his post #1 and he NEVER mentions it. I agree the coolant bypass valve failure would never cause a misfire. This whole thing is fishy.

 

thank you for your input, i'm not that knowledgable, so what was shared with me here i asked my local shop and/or dealer to do. i don't really know what else to say in regard to this, i only reported the fix that finally made it go away.

i may have neglected to notice any new or additional errors because my screen was constantly showing the initial errors i shared, to the point i was seldom driving the car at all. i'm sure my knowledge gaps are making this more confusing/frustrating. anyway, i'll share a picture from the dealer paperwork here, where i have been systemically complaining about the check engine light + other errors:

 

Hopefully you see this message as I understood your problem was cylinder 2 misfire on coldstarts, did replacing the coolant bypass valve fix the misfire ? Just unsure how coolant bypass valve could be associated with cylinder misfire ?