2019 is the first year production for the HB. I have a 2019 HB with 6MT. It is a very nice MT box and mine has no problem at all so far. The problems you mentioned are not common. To be safe, test drive THE car you are ready to buy before handing over the money.

 

My 2019 is just amazing. Best transmission ever. No problems whatsoever... I'm at 38,000 miles, with Redline MT-LV since 6,220 miles.

 

Same with my 19, shifting is butter smooth, no hard shift for any gears, much better than my Civic's shifting. This coupled with the help of rev matching, makes it the best manual transmission in a econ box.

 

No problems with my 6 speed I am at 48k miles

 

Thanks everyone for the replies! That's great to hear.

 

I've never heard of this, I don't have a hatchback but this car is easily one of the smoothest manuals I have ever driven.

Go on Honda 8th gen civic 9th gen or 10th gen if you want to see some shifting problems lol...

 

Don't think its the car, its the people that own them that are the problem

Go on Honda 8th gen civic 9th gen or 10th gen if you want to see some shifting problems lol...

Civic manuals are among the best I've tried...the 10th Gen Civic was really nice when I test drove one

 

I've owned/driven nothing but manuals since my first car in 1982, & never had a vehicle with such a notchy, finnicky first gear as my 2020 Corolla. It's definitely my last manual vehicle at this point in my life, and I will probably purchase a 2022 Mazda of some sort with a regular 6-speed automatic (no push-belt CVT) in the near future to replace it.

 

I have to think there's something wrong with yours Raithskar have you had it back to the dealer? Have you tested other 6-speeds at the dealer?
The 6-speed in my 2019 HB is the smoothest, easiest shifting, least notchy, manual transmission I've ever used

 

So much for the mythology of Japan-assembled versions of cars being better than ones assembled in the U.S., etc.

 

Finally got the transmission replaced. The job took only a day and the invoice shown 7.5 hours of labor being charged to Toyota, I kept the loaner car for 2 days. The parts include the transmission and axle nuts. The dealer also removed and reinstalled steering calculation, I am not sure what that is.

The car drives better than new: ride is quieter, clutch pedal is slightly lighter and consistent, shift is tighter and slightly shorter and iMT seems to be more precise. When the car was new, it didn't feel this great. Whatever the dealer has done and tuned, they have done a great job.

Hey everyone just wanted to point out that I just got my 6mt transmission replaced today. I previously had problems with it not wanting to go into 1st gear sometimes. I also had a bad bearing where it would be noisy when I didn’t press the clutch but when I pressed the clutch and was in neutral it would go away. Took it to toyota and they decided to change the transmission. Problem is all gone now. Shifts smoothly and no more noise. The clutch also feels way better now.

 

The sedan production in US was one year after the HB production in Japan. Likely Toyota wants to work out the bugs the best they can before branching out offshore to the US. Likewise, if you have an early build of the US sedans, chances are that you would have more hick hops than the later ones as Toyota worked out the new bugs in the new US production. Do people actually think anything in version 1.0 is 100% bug free? Toyota has a better track record than most, but nobody is perfect. If bug free is your biggest concern for your ride, the lowest risk option is to buy the last year production. In the Corolla case, it would be the 2019 Gen11 sedan.
BTW, when I have to bet my hard earned $ on which has better built cars, I would bet on the Japan build, until may be one day the statistics show the US can do better.

 

BTW, when I have to bet my hard earned $ on which has better built cars, I would bet on the Japan build, until may be one day the statistics show the US can do better.

Get your $$ ready, I have some examples for you: TMMK (Georgetown, KY) ES350 - won platinum award, i.e. beat Japan plant that assembles the same ES, next is TMMC (Cambridge, ON) RX350 - also won platinum award many times vs its Japan counterpart, I can go on

 

"TMMC (Cambridge, ON) RX350 - also won platinum award many times vs its Japan counterpart"

+1

 

That's good news. I better pull out my wallet and get ready.
They need to build a car I want tho, something comes with a MT yet?

 

That's good news. I better pull out my wallet and get ready. [emoji14]
They need to build a car I want tho, something comes with a MT yet?

I hear ya, problem is it feels like the only manuals anyone makes anymore are garbage entry model no option junk or top line sports car - and they are getting dropped by manufacturers yearly. I just want a 4 door 6 speed 250ish horse reliable Japan...

I worry about the future...

 

Mine is like butter....I drive it like a little old lady...the way it was meant to be driven.

 

Interesting thread for me to read. This has been my first manual car, which I've wanted one for ages.

I have had the issue where I can't shift into first sometimes. It's rare, and quickly going into second then first fixes the issue. I have a theory that it part of the mechanism that prevents you from shifting into first until you are below a certain speed malfunctioning. If it become a more consistent problem, I'll probably go the dealership. Not worth it yet.

I also noticed that shifts are rough the first 3-5 mins of driving, especially in the cold. But that is just the transmission/car warming up.

I do have issues shifting from 1st to 2nd though, it often is slightly "jerky"; even though no other shifting has it. I think it's due to the larger gear spacing, and because the engine takes a while to drop in revs. So often I'm trying to shift into 2nd at a higher RPM than the drive train is going in, so I get a small jerk. Often I shift out of first around 3k, maybe that's too high?

 

The main problem is the soft motor mount behind the engine (no front mount on 12th gen)... I stiffened mine up by filling its open spaces with Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker – Permatex

I also replaced the gear lube with Redline MT-LV at 620 miles (10,010 kms). It only takes 1.6 US quarts (1.5 liter)... Mine could not be more perfect or flawless, under any conceivable conditions.

Red Line Synthetic Oil. MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 Gear Oil (redlineoil.com)

What helped as well is flushing out the clutch slave (release) cylinder. It took quite a few ounces before it cleared from a milky white fluid. It takes up fresh fluid from the brake fluid reservoir which I upgraded with DOT 5.1 (along with brake lines and calipers). Clutch pedal no longer stiffens in frigid temperatures.

DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid - Motul

 

That is all extremely helpful advice, thank you!

Also what calipers did you upgrade to? I was thinking of doing that at some point too.

 

DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid Long life 100% Synthetic Fluid DOT 5.1 NON SILICONE BASE For hydraulic actuated brake and clutch systems

Long life fluid: The high wet boiling point (187°C / 369°F), superior to DOT 4 (155°C / 311°F mini) and DOT 3 (140°C / 284°F mini) conventional fluids enables to use this product longer. Indeed, DOT 3 / DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids have the property to absorb humidity contained in the air, which reduces their boiling points and consequently security. The wet boiling point is representative of the fluid after one year of use.

Specially designed for anti-locking brake systems (ABS): The viscosity (820 centipoises at -40°C / -40°F) lower than DOT 4 (up to 1800 cp) and DOT 3 (up to 1500 cp) brake fluids allows an easier fluid circulation in micro-valves of anti-locking systems.

Perfectly neutral with seals used in braking systems. Anti-corrosion. RECOMMENDATIONS Mixable with DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 NON SILICONE BASE products. Do not mix with silicone (DOT 5 silicone base) or mineral base fluids (LHM). Store brake fluid in its original container, tightly closed to avoid absorption of moisture. Aggressive chemical product if contact with hands, paint or varnish. If skin contact, rinse thoroughly with water. Drain Interval: 12 to 24 month as per manufacturers’ recommendations.

DOT_5.1_Brake_Fluid__28GB_29.pdf (d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.net)

 

I bought a brand new 2021 corolla hatchback 6 speed manual in Aug and its now April.
I've put about 46k miles on her all freeway.
I'm having issues all the sudden.
1st it was wifi hot spot not turning on, software issues, then hard to shift into 1st gear, now the car jolts it's self, goes into limp mode only allowing me to do like 5mph, every dash light is on. Car is not communicating with entune app either.

So I'd say it has some issues lol....
I pray what ever is going on is under warranty or is a recall so I'm not out a bunch of money on a brand new car that Imo should have 0 issues.

I bought toyota because of their reliability. I own a 2011 sienna limited and love it, never an issue.
This car however is testing my faith.

 

I bought a brand new 2021 corolla hatchback 6 speed manual in Aug and its now April.
I've put about 46k miles on her all freeway.
I'm having issues all the sudden.
1st it was wifi hot spot not turning on, software issues, then hard to shift into 1st gear, now the car jolts it's self, goes into limp mode only allowing me to do like 5mph, every dash light is on. Car is not communicating with entune app either.

So I'd say it has some issues lol....
I pray what ever is going on is under warranty or is a recall so I'm not out a bunch of money on a brand new car that Imo should have 0 issues.

I bought toyota because of their reliability. I own a 2011 sienna limited and love it, never an issue.
This car however is testing my faith. View attachment 380059

Were any trouble codes displayed? Your original 12V battery could be starting to give you problems... It may well have been compromised as it sat for about a year before being sold to you. Original battery is only rated at 360CCA, compared to widely available 650CCA H5/Group 47 sized replacement 12V battery.

 

Going into 1st gear can be a little notchy with this gearbox, and occasionally going from 1st to 2nd. Usually if I’m at a stop, going back into Neutral, releasing the clutch pedal, and shifting back into 1 will always work. Can be slightly frustrating with how impatient drivers behind you can be. People around here start honking and accelerating the instant a light turns green. [emoji28]🫤 I wish those jerks had to learn to drive a manual. LOL
I’ve wondered if changing transmission fluid would help. Usually once my car is warmed up I don’t have any shifting issues. Just always take it easy until the car is warmed up. This is also one of many manual transmission cars I’ve owned. I would say it’s as good as most of them. My FR-S was better for sure. It had shorter throws and felt more solid engaging each gear.


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I did switch to Red Line MT-LV at 6220 miles, then at 43,500 miles (at 10,010 kms, then every 60,000 kms). I stiffened up my rear motor mount early on. I've also bled the clutch release cylinder and replaced the brake/clutch fluid with Motul DOT 5.1 a couple times... It always shifts like a dream.

 

I did switch to Red Line MT-LV at 6220 miles, then at 43,500 miles (at 10,010 kms, then every 60,000 kms). I stiffened up my rear mortor mount early on. I've also bled the clutch release cylinder and replaced the brake/clutch fluid with Motul DOT 5.1 a couple times... It always shifts like a dream.

That is awesome info! I’ve always heard good things about Red Line products. I think I will switch to their MT fluid this summer. [emoji106]
I’m at about 33k miles so it’s a good idea to change the transmission and brake fluid anyway.


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