Driving yesterday, the car had no issues, but today when I left for work I noticed the pedal would get stuck about 2/3rd of the way back up but when driving it was normal. After work, I got in my car, put it in 1st gear and just held the clutch in; after about 30 seconds the car started to creep forward and between 45 seconds to a minute in I started to move forward significantly and was unable to get out of gear so I had to shut the car off. The pedal was stuck to the floor momentarily, then it came back up. I was able to drive the car home, I just had to be quick when using the clutch.

Your clutch disc (friction plate) is likely damaged... You probably need a new clutch disc, pressure plate, slave (release) cylinder/bearing assembly, and maybe resurface or replace flywheel.

31250-12670 - Transmission Clutch Friction Plate - 2019-2022 Toyota Corolla | OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)

31210-12390 - Pressure Plate - 2019-2023 Toyota Corolla | OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)

31400-19027 - Cylinder Assembly Clutc - OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)

13450-24020 - Clutch Flywheel - 2019-2022 Toyota Corolla | OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)


E210 Corolla Performance Clutch and Flywheel

E210 Corolla Performance Clutch and Flywheel — Grocery Getter Performance

 

Hey everyone, sharing a post I also did on the E210 Performance FB group, I need some feedback from you guys on an issue I am having with my clutch that started earlier today...

Driving yesterday, the car had no issues, but today when I left for work I noticed the pedal would get stuck about 2/3rd of the way back up but when driving it was normal. After work, I got in my car, put it in 1st gear and just held the clutch in; after about 30 seconds the car started to creep forward and between 45 seconds to a minute in I started to move forward significantly and was unable to get out of gear so I had to shut the car off. The pedal was stuck to the floor momentarily, then it came back up. I was able to drive the car home, I just had to be quick when using the clutch.

I don't know if anyone else has had this issue or something similar but please share.

Clutch master cylinder was replaced at 47k, I am currently just over 61k. I looked for leaks by the master but it all looks clean and dry. Brake fluid level doesn't drop when pressing in the pedal either. Everything around the slave bleeder valve looks clean and dry as well. Unfortunately, the slave cylinder is internal on this transmission so I cannot see the condition. I did cook the absolute hell out of my brake fluid on my last trip to Tail of the Dragon about a month and a half ago, and since then my brakes have needed a little more input to stop properly and even then it still feels off, so I don't know if I am experiencing the same issue with the clutch or if it's just unfortunate coincidence of another more serious issue that cannot be fixed with a simple flush of the braking system. Would a clutch/brake system flush solve my issue or am I looking at something more serious? I plan on upgrading to Motul RBF660 down the road, but the initial flush will be with whatever fluid I can get my hands on in case it doesn't work.

Although the car is drivable, I don't want to take the risk, so it's sitting for now until I get this figured out

I had the same issue, I replace my slave solenoid and it seemed to fix the issue.
Since the transmission had to be removed I also replaced my clutch. It was expensive but it works flawlessly now

 

Your clutch disc (friction plate) is likely damaged... You probably need a new clutch disc, pressure plate, slave (release) cylinder/bearing assembly, and maybe resurface or replace flywheel.

31250-12670 - Transmission Clutch Friction Plate - 2019-2022 Toyota Corolla | OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)

31210-12390 - Pressure Plate - 2019-2023 Toyota Corolla | OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)

31400-19027 - Cylinder Assembly Clutc - OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)

13450-24020 - Clutch Flywheel - 2019-2022 Toyota Corolla | OEM Genuine Toyota Parts (oemgenuineparts.com)


E210 Corolla Performance Clutch and Flywheel
View attachment 440094
E210 Corolla Performance Clutch and Flywheel — Grocery Getter Performance

I had the same issue, I replace my slave solenoid and it seemed to fix the issue.
Since the transmission had to be removed I also replaced my clutch. It was expensive but it works flawlessly now

both of you guys are correct. I looked under the transmission where the bell housing meets the block and it’s leaking slowly from the space.

 

from the slave*** sorry

 

You'll also need 1.6 quarts of MT-LV.

Red Line Synthetic Oil. MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 Gear Oil (redlineoil.com)


Brake/clutch fluid. ESI6 Brake Fluid Flyer.pdf (boschautoparts.com)

BOSCH ESI6 Brake Fluid | RockAuto

 

do these cars have a clutch delay valve?

 

(GR Corolla)

Upgrade your Toyota with our Hydraulic Release Bearing. Made of billet aluminum and then finished with our hard anodizing process. Our bearing is a bolt in setup and fits all clutch kits that are designed around the factory clutch heights, whether that is one of our clutch kits or any other kit out there.

Hydraulic Release Bearing (clutchmasters.com)

Hydraulics - Hydraulic Release Bearing (clutchmasters.com)

Aluminum Flywheel (clutchmasters.com)

Steel Flywheel (clutchmasters.com)

 

View attachment 440261
(GR Corolla)

Upgrade your Toyota with our Hydraulic Release Bearing. Made of billet aluminum and then finished with our hard anodizing process. Our bearing is a bolt in setup and fits all clutch kits that are designed around the factory clutch heights, whether that is one of our clutch kits or any other kit out there.

Hydraulic Release Bearing (clutchmasters.com)

Hydraulics - Hydraulic Release Bearing (clutchmasters.com)

View attachment 440262
Flywheels (clutchmasters.com)

well that’s unfortunate, nothing on the 2.0 🥲

 

Hello again everyone. 2 months later and the car is back up and running. It turns out that the slave cylinder was indeed the source of the leak and the pedal, it was blown out basically. While I had the car down and the transmission out, I went ahead and threw some upgrades and some maintenance at the car. The list goes as follows...

• OE slave cylinder/release bearing
• GGP/SPEC stage 3 clutch & lightweight flywheel
• MWR braided clutch line
• NST lightweight crank pulley & Gates belt
• Motul RBF660 DOT4 racing brake fluid & brake/clutch system flush
• Redline MT-LV gear oil (again, it was done at 55k lol)
• OE Denso spark plugs

Once I figure out how to add photos I will, have to try off my iPad or MacBook, currently on my desktop.

Here is my observation of the stuff that was pulled out of the car...

Slave cylinder - absolutely destroyed. Sad that Toyota won't acknowledge that this part is a big issue in the MT corollas.

OE clutch, pressure plate & flywheel - for 61k miles, honestly in very good condition even considering the abuse that it gets. Could have easily made it past 100k miles. Clutch disk had plenty of friction material on it and the flywheel was free of hot spots or glazing.

Factory spark plugs - considering that the car has been tuned for about half of the life of the spark plugs and the car gets ran very hard, plugs looked to be in good condition still, confirmed by AMT, and could have gone another 20 or 30 thousand miles before really needing to be changed.

Everything else there was not much to really see or comment on. The OE crank pulley is heavier than it looks lol. Currently 200 miles into the 500 mile clutch break in. Everything feels solid, I'm excited to get more miles on the car.

 

what's causing the slave cylinders to blow out? is this another reason to bleed it regularily and get fresh fluid in there?

 

Other than manufacturers defect the only common factor thus far was every culprit used iMT regularly... but this has not been proven yet only information I asked everyone who posted about these issues.

 

Well it took them no time at all to acknowledge the white paint chipping/peeling defect (sarcasm)

So I don't have high hopes for this since it's such a small percentage that even own a manual 12th Gen (I am one of them)

Honda had similar issues with the CMC causing gear grinding which lead to worn out synchros and they never addressed that issue no matter how many 8th and 9th generation si's were affected (I was one of them)

The other issue is if they do warranty it,they are only putting back on the same defective parts ultimately causing the same issues down the road...

I doubt the problem is caused by iMT directly. The problem is more likely that people that don't drive manuals well are the ones that will use iMT. There is no way for example for iMT to know that when you shift out of fourth while accelerating, you want to drop down to second.

I've tried iMT twice and quickly came to the conclusion I rev match much better than it does.

It wasn't a fact it was data collected (now minus julio) that all users thus far used iMT

Edit; I also believe most if not all were j-spec hatches

I used iMT a few times in the cars early days, but I usually rev match myself especially after tuning. I agree with what you said about it being manufacturer defect, which is why I say that it’s sad Toyota won’t acknowledge it and do something about it. They know it’s a very common issue.

I don't use it either I tried it once and it made me want to drive an auto... lol

 

Well it took them no time at all to acknowledge the white paint chipping/peeling defect (sarcasm)

So I don't have high hopes for this since it's such a small percentage that even own a manual 12th Gen (I am one of them)

Honda had similar issues with the CMC causing gear grinding which lead to worn out synchros and they never addressed that issue no matter how many 8th and 9th generation si's were affected (I was one of them)

The other issue is if they do warranty it,they are only putting back on the same defective parts ultimately causing the same issues down the road...

From what I heard and saw on the parts site is that the part number was updated, reflecting a possible update on the part? Who knows, only time will tell lol

I don't use it either I tried it once and it made me want to drive an auto... lol

Dude iMT is such a gimmick 😂😂

 

It would appear that 31400-19025 was replaced by 31400-19026 in November 2021. Looks like they caught the last half of the 22 model year and then discontinued manuals.

Per Invader, it looks like 31400-19026 was superseded by 31400-19027 at some point after that.

 

That would be great news if true, since mine was made in mid-2022.

 

couldn't new part numbers just be new suppliers and no change to the part design?

Likely not. A new part number usually means some material change to the part.

there's 2019 and 2020 6mt's around nearing or over 100k miles with no issues

This probably isn't a wide-spread problem, but has affected enough vehicles that that they wanted a more robust replacement. The one thing that is a bit odd is that they went to a new design in November 2021 and then updated the design again, after they stopped production of the manual transmissions in 2022. It almost makes me think the first redesign was worse, why else would they update the design again so quickly? I guess we'll all see what happens as time goes by.

 

Likely not. A new part number usually means some material change to the part.


The one thing that is a bit odd is that they went to a new design in November 2021 and then updated the design again, after they stopped production of the manual transmissions in 2022. It almost makes me think the first redesign was worse, why else would they update the design again so quickly?

Perhaps the second update was for use in another application, maybe the GR Corolla? They might have needed something even more robust for that.

 

GR Corolla uses 31400-59035. It's double the price.

 

My original 2019 Hatch hydraulic release bearing is still perfect... I did however upgrade all of the hydraulic clutch and brake fluid to Motul DOT 5.1 very early on at about 2,000 miles. I was shocked to see the original fluid come out opaque white from the clutch release bleed fitting for quite a while until it cleared up, and have since bled it again when it came out clear.

MOTUL DOT 5.1 - Motul

I'm switching again soon to Bosch ESI6.

ESI Brake Fluid - ESI6 Brake Fluid - Bosch Auto Parts

BOSCH ESI6 Brake Fluid | RockAuto


Clutch Masters - Hydraulic Release Bearing

Made of billet aluminum and then finished with our hard anodizing process. Our bearing is a bolt in setup and fits all clutch kits that are designed around the factory clutch heights, whether that is one of our clutch kits or any other kit out there.

Hydraulic Release Bearing (clutchmasters.com)

GR corolla 31400-59035 - Toyota Parts Deal

2018 Corolla 31400-59025 Genuine Toyota Cylinder Assembly, Clutch (toyotapartsdeal.com)

 

Facing the same clutch issues with my newly acquired 2021 Corolla 6sp. manual. Toyota refusing to concede to replace under warranty. Car only has 44k miles. Anyone in for a class action LS? I have a family of attorneys and I am a 40 year machine reliability engineer. I'm sure if we ask for the failure rates and curves they are facing a product liability suit due to the product being unfit for service.

 

Thank you for your reply here Invader. I am a complete mechanical illiterate and have no idea how to do this job but would like to do it (or at least know how to do it before seeing a mechanic).
Would you happen to have a link to a video showing how this job is accomplished. (where is the "clutch release bleed fitting"?)
Does the clutch system have it's own reservoir or is this system a part of the brake fluid system? (like I said, not a clue).
Thank you. I appreciate your help.

 

Brake fluid and clutch fluid share the same reservoir on top of brake master cylinder... Clutch bleed fitting is down in front, on bell housing between engine and transmission.