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7afe cranks won't start. Previously died.

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5.1K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Thatotherguy88  
#1 ·
The other day while driving my car around the block, I stopped at a stop sign. As it shifted back down to idle it began to sputter out and eventually died. I cranked it a bunch and eventually got it restarted by pumping the gas pedal. Got it back home, parked, and it continued to run just fine for the time being. Turned it off and back on a few times and it started after some effort each time. I noticed that when gradually applying gas smoothly, it would accelerate smooth, but if I gave it a lot of gas quickly it would begin sputtering rough until RPMs were pretty high then it would run smooth again. I left it for the time being and went to bed.

On waking the next day I discovered it would no longer even start. Had a buddy look at it, he suggested the fuel pump should be priming and that it was not. Started troubleshooting at this point.

Checked the relays by swapping them out with known working relays, they all seem to be good. Checked fuses, fuses seem good as well including the fuses in the kick panel. Jumped the FP and B+ ports in the diagnostic jumper array and the pump engages just fine when I turn the key on. On removing the jumper, it does not prime or engage. I read someone on a Toyota forum suggest that some Toyotas don't engage the pump to prime when the key is turned over, but I don't know if this is true or not.

Tried starting the car with the pump engaged just to see if I could get it to start even for a second with the pump manuallly switched on, but it would not start. Tested farthest spark plug wire from the distributor for spark using a spare plug, and it is getting spark. Haven't checked the others yet.

Checked for trouble codes by manually jumping the Te1 and E1 in the diagnostic panel, no codes. Haven't used a reader yet but will tomorrow.

Checked the belts I could see but they all appear to be in good condition, I'll look at them further tomorrow. Can't get to the timing belt right now so I guess it could be the timing belt but I'm not sure if there's an easy way to check it.

Measured the fuel injector resistance and it's reading 13.6-13.8 ohm, which appears to be within range for these cars.

Also note that we attempted to start it with ether to no avail as a last resort. It did not start, even for a fraction of a second. Just turned over and over. This was where I got very confused.

Any ideas?

Happy new year!
 
#3 ·
Before seeing this we sprayed ether in the intake by loosening the clamp just after the fuel filter and it felt like one cylinder tried to fire but didn't. Couldn't get it to do anything but turn over after that. While doing that we also cracked the nut on the rail and it had fuel in it that was under pressure but don't have stuff to take an actual reading on hand. Ether being spayed in on these cars after the filter but before the MAP should start it right?
 
#4 ·
Spray the starting fluid into the throttle body. Even if there’s pressure in the rail, the injectors could be leaking by. If you can measure pressure in the rail, that would be ideal.

When the engine fires with starting fluid, that isolates the fuel pump since you’re spraying directly into the engine.
 
#5 ·
What year is your car? 96-97 you can't read codes by jumping Te1 and E1; you need to use an OBDII reader.

The fuel pump will only run when the key is in the START position or the engine is running and ignition coil is firing. Computer receives a signal back from the coil to verify the spark plugs are sparking.

It doesn't seem like a timing belt issue because it ran and started fine the first day, then wouldn't start the next day. Several ways to check. Use a timing light to verify the spark plugs are firing about when they should. Otherwise, you need to remove the top timing belt cover to verify the timing marks.

It's also possible you have a distributor problem. See
 
#7 ·
If it's late 95, like 95.5 you may have an OBDII compliant car. Do you have the OBDII port under the steering wheel under the dash? Most 95 models have OBDI which requires the Te1-E1 jumper to get the codes.
 
#9 ·
Question, if I'm using a spark plug seated in the coil to check each coil for spark and I'm cranking the engine should I be seeing constant sparking from the plug tip? I tested one coil the other night and saw a single spark while cranking but it wasn't constantly sparking or anything.
 
#13 ·
No, you would not need to remove anything to get to the port. It would be visible if you lean in and put your head down at the bottom of the steering wheel, slightly toward the left I think.

Your emission control sitcker on the underside of the hood should also give you a hint. If you have an adjustable distributor the sticker will say something about the timing being adjusted to 10° BTDC. My 1997 Corolla IS OBDII without an adjustable distributor and my sticker looks like this:

Image
 
#16 ·
Hii
I have 7afe it is cranking but not starting I have checked the fuel injectors I have putted new spark plug and also I have checked the ecu board and the sensors they are all fine but I am not able to start the vehicle.

I need help from you guys what can I do to start my car and getting it on road an advice guys
Thanks
 
#17 ·
Hii
I have 7afe it is cranking but not starting I have checked the fuel injectors I have putted new spark plug and also I have checked the ecu board and the sensors they are all fine but I am not able to start the vehicle.

I need help from you guys what can I do to start my car and getting it on road an advice guys
Thanks
Your timing is off.