Quick update, I called back to talk to the service advisor. I let him know my concern that this is a master cylinder issue. The fluid being low would also point to that being the real problem. He assured me they are going to check that first. So now I’m wondering, did they even look at my car?! Or just throw a $4600 repair bill at me and hope I take their word for it? I’ve used their service department many times, and it’s been some good and some bad experiences. 🫤


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How many miles on the car? Why do they think it needs a flywheel? And why the whatever cylinder that is, if it is the clutch?

On a regular clutch job, parts involved:
1) clutch cover
2) clutch disc
3) throw-out bearing
And maybe axle seals
Machine the flywheel!

 

My car has 46,000 miles on it. So not enough miles to easily justify the clutch is destroyed or ruined.

He couldn’t give any explanation on why the clutch assembly OR flywheel needed to be replaced. Just that the master tech evaluated it. Nothing has been taken apart yet. I’m starting to think they didn’t even look closely. That ‘cylinder assembly’ listed could be a new master cylinder? The part number doesn’t match though. Looking online the master cylinder is 31420-12090

This is why people don’t trust car dealership service departments. This could be the difference of a free warranty repair, or a $4600 bill. [emoji29]


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What kind of driver are you? Be honest here! 😁

46k, unless the car had been abused, don't usually see clutch replacement at this mileage!
It is also well within the powertrain warranty, 5yr or 60k miles, if clutch failed prematurely, and you haven't abused the car!
If he can't provide you with a clear explanation, maybe you should go above him and find out why it isn't covered under the powertrain warranty.

 

What kind of driver are you? Be honest here! [emoji16]

46k, unless the car had been abused, don't usually see clutch replacement at this mileage!
It is also well within the powertrain warranty, 5yr or 60k miles, if clutch failed prematurely, and you haven't abused the car!
If he can't provide you with a clear explanation, maybe you should go above him and find out why it isn't covered under the powertrain warranty.

I know everyone says this, but I’m honestly a very good driver. [emoji3] This is not my first manual transmission car either. I don’t rush shifts, I don’t let the clutch slip any longer than it has to. I pretty much baby it. And I drive 80% highway miles. I did buy it used with about 29,000 miles on it, from this same Toyota dealer. The car has driven great since I’ve owned it, no strange clutch issues at all. No chattering or weird noises ever.

I will go above this service advisor if I have to, but I’m hoping they will find it’s just the master cylinder, or possibly some other issue outside of the clutch/flywheel. I also bought an extended warranty from them. I was planning on keeping this car a long time. [emoji57]


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Well that's it; if you didn't abuse the car, there is only one explanation, premature part failure.
Clutch wear is usually gradual, and you will notice the engagement point coming up higher and higher at the pedal, gradually again. A part failure on the other hand, can happen very suddenly!
Regardless of what the failure part maybe, can't really come up with any reason why it would not be covered under the powertrain warranty. Or your extended warranty for that matter.
If the advisor continue to give you the run around, just ask to speak with the manager or his supervisor.

 

Oh for sure, I always take care of my cars. And like you said, a failing clutch would have shown some signs before completely failing. The clutch takeup point was the same, and I never felt any vibrations or weird behavior through the clutch pedal. Just that one time going to shift, the clutch pedal went to the floor, and wouldn’t go back.
I will report back after they look at my car again. Or look at it the first time. [emoji28]


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That uses a hydraulic clutch throw-out bearing, if it is failing it could be where your fluid is going and in that environment between the heat and the bell-housing it's not gonna make it to the ground.
If it did go the disc is gonna be saturated but the cover and flywheel would be fine unless you experienced some slipping.
I doubt it needs all those parts but the trans has to come out to fix it.

Wearing a disc out or overheating a flywheel can be attributed to a driver but the failure of that part this early seems like a warranty issue.

That dealer's parts prices are ridicules compared to other dealers. Time to look else where.
The majority of dealers, some in close proximity to that one have th at $160- $165 bucks.
Issue is labor expenses.

Start looking for an Independent Shop, let them diaginose what they think it is without telling them what you've been told.

 

That uses a hydraulic clutch throw-out bearing, if it is failing it could be where your fluid is going and in that environment between the heat and the bell-housing it's not gonna make it to the ground.
If it did go the disc is gonna be saturated but the cover and flywheel would be fine unless you experienced some slipping.
I doubt it needs all those parts but the trans has to come out to fix it.
That dealer's parts prices are ridicules compared to other dealers. Time to look else where.

I didn't even check, that is what they were referring to as the cylinder! Nice going @sdspeed! Still a premature failure nevertheless! 😁

 

, keep us posted! Interested to know how things go!

 

Demand repair under warranty. Doubtful there's any way you could have caused the problem. Parts have failed and must be covered. The dealer will get paid whether by customers or Toyota warranty, so they're just being plonkers about it. DEMAND they fix the car and use the warranty.

 

I’m about to go up there with my brother, and talk face to face with the service advisor and tech. I want to see this damage they are claiming.


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Is there an external slave cylinder that can be bled? It sounds like the classic master cylinder failure.

 

That’s exactly what it sounds like to me also. I think they just want to bend me over and pepper my angus. [emoji23]


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You don't know what happened during the first 29,000 miles.

 

True, and I thought about that. But the car drove great in my 16000 miles of ownership. I know I would have noticed a failing clutch plate or flywheel.


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So I had something very unexpected happen yesterday with my 2020 Corolla Hatchback XSE. I went to push in the clutch, and the pedal stayed on the floor. There were no strange sounds or anything that would indicate a part had failed. I checked the clutch fluid and it appeared to be at the minimum level.

Your brake fluid (shared with clutch fluid) level was below the low level? Was your clutch release cylinder bleed fitting ever opened to bleed or flush clutch fluid? Have you tried topping off the brake/clutch fluid, and have you tried bleeding your clutch of any air now?

After topping it off and with clutch pedal back up, crack the clutch bleed fitting open with a clear hose on it leading into a container. Let it bleed while keeping an eye on reservoir level. Slowly pump pedal in and out by hand a few times, then let it bleed by gravity again until all air is out. Your clutch will be just like new.

 

Thanks invader, those are some great tips. Yes the reservoir was showing I believe slightly under the minimum level. To my knowledge the clutch fluid has not been replaced or bled.
Topping it off and trying to re-pressurize the system could be a really good next step. If the master cylinder has failed, would there be a tell tale sign? Like fluid leaking from it?


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Master / slave sounds like... should be under warranty ??

 

Sounds very much like master/slave.

It's pretty sudden in onset in my experience, I had it happen in my Ranger and it was almost instant. My Probe had it happen too but much slower, took about a week for the clutch to fully stop working.

 

I wonder if the clutch slave is internal to the transmission?

One thing to keep in mind is the factory flywheel is a dual mass flywheel. Cannot be reused or machined.

 

It appears the Hydraulic throw out bearing may replace the traditional slave cylinder.

 

Clutch master cylinder (behind clutch pedal).

31420-12090 Retail Price: $130.96

31420-12090 Genuine Toyota Cylinder Assembly, MASTE (toyotapartsdeal.com)

We no longer even have a pivot fork for the release bearing... It is now a clutch release bearing cylinder assembly, part # 31400-19025.
31400-19025 Genuine Toyota Cylinder Assembly, CLUTC (toyotapartsdeal.com)

It looks a lot like this:

 

Op, is this a certified pre owned purchase? They should have notified you at time of purchase that you have a power train warranty.

 

It wasn’t a CPO, but I did buy an extended warranty through. I think I’m still under the factory powertrain warranty also.


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What I was referencing was that the dealer wants to replace the throw out bearing, no mention of the M/C.
Same unit I posted earlier since it's not what most people picture.
Bottom line there was no diagonistcs done that the OP was made aware of and either part should be under warranty.

 

Exactly, why is the M/C not even listed?! I’m starting to think they don’t even know the clutch pedal is on the floorboard. I’m going to push for the easy/obvious things to be fixed first, or I will do it myself.


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We can speculate all day long, but all you need to do is start by bleeding it free of air as instructed, and make it functional again... You'll witness any possible leak and confirm all is well as soon as you simply evacuate the air, replacing it with fluid.

Toyota Of Plano

 

This will be the first thing I do when I have my car back. If they won’t repair everything under warranty. This is at Pat Lobb Toyota in McKinney. I’ve bought 9 Toyotas from them. I got the ball rolling with my sales guy and the sales manager to talk to service. Service was closed by the time I got there.


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9 Toyota, dank! Doubt very much the sales department will allow the service department to mess up on this! Long term customer is cheaper to keep than trying to get new ones; it is a proven fact!

 

This is a make or break type situation for sure. If they keep yanking me around, I’m done with them. There are plenty of other Toyota dealers. And plenty of other brands. [emoji38] I’ve been loyal to Toyota and this dealership for a long time. I hope they recognize the value in that. In fact, my plan was to buy a GR86 or GR Corolla from them next year. [emoji854]


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The more I’ve thought about this, I’m so thankful this didn’t happen crossing an intersection, or pulling into traffic. Many of the intersections here require a shift to 2nd well before I’m through it. Like when making an unprotected left turn. Luckily I was just driving in a parking lot.


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Well, if they continue on giving you excuses, remind them about the the GR you are thinking about when you tow your car out of there.

Indeed you were lucky, have aother slice of Thanks Giving turkey, and celebrate!

 

Right?!! [emoji38][emoji23] I’m still hopeful this can have a good result for everyone. If they do the right thing, inspect the car properly, and replace the (most likely) master cylinder under warranty, I would buy another car from them. If not, they’re dead to me. [emoji6]
Yes for sure, lots of turkey and pumpkin pie. [emoji3]


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Why was the brake/clutch fluid low? Any possible leak will be more obvious once the clutch is bled.

 

I intend to find that out on Monday. It’s like they just want to skip all the easy and obvious possibilities, and go right for a full clutch and flywheel replacement.


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I hate crappy dealers.!! They are either trying to avoid warranty work, trying to figure how to get around warranty work or just flat out lying about the diagnostics to get the customer to pay for work that is not covered under the warranty.

 

I try to avoid having a service department ever needing to work on my car, except for basic maintenance. Which is why I have bought Toyotas. [emoji28] Almost every time I’ve needed a car worked on, it’s not fixed correctly, or at all. Even with a reliable brand like Toyota, I feel like they don’t really take the time to properly diagnose a car.


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The following is potentially hazardous, 'ballsy' and hard on the starter: I have done it several times to save a big tow bill. If you need to move it (sound like you might have to change mechanics) you can drive it without a clutch. Just put in 2nd gear (engine off) make sure no one is front of you and hit the starter, the car will start, lurch forward (clumsily) once rolling, you can drive it up to ~40mph, just drive normally. Unfortunately, if there is a stop sign or red light you will have to turn it off/on repeatedly. Consider doing this at 2am, rolling slowly through stops and red lights?😱. The steering wheel might lock when it the car is 'off' so point it straight ahead when turning the key off. I have even gone on the freeway like this, just shift from second to 4th, 'tickle' the 4th gear gate at ~40mph with a slight push (don't push hard) and 'rev match'. Listen, until the engine and tranny rpm are the same, control rpm up and down with your accelerator foot. Luckily, freeways don't have stop signs. Look at the tach if you know the rpm point at which a 4th gear shift should occur, the stick will slide easily into any gear when you do this correctly. Do this incorrectly and you will grind the gears but, when you get a feel for it, it seems easy! Note that this technique is not for 'high-strung', nervous or 'faint-hearted drivers.🤐

 

The following is potentially hazardous, 'ballsy' and hard on the starter: I have done it several times to save a big tow bill. If you need to move it (sound like you might have to change mechanics) you can drive it without a clutch. Just put in 2nd gear (engine off) make sure no one is front of you and hit the starter, the car will start, lurch forward (clumsily) once rolling, you can drive it up to ~40mph, just drive normally. Unfortunately, if there is a stop sign or red light you will have to turn it off/on repeatedly. Consider doing this at 2am, rolling slowly through stops and red lights?[emoji33]. The steering wheel might lock when it the car is 'off' so point it straight ahead when turning the key off. I have even gone on the freeway like this, just shift from second to 4th, 'tickle' the 4th gear gate at ~40mph with a slight push (don't push hard) and 'rev match'. Listen, until the engine and tranny rpm are the same, control rpm up and down with your accelerator foot. Luckily, freeways don't have stop signs. Look at the tach if you know the rpm point at which a 4th gear shift should occur, the stick will slide easily into any gear when you do this correctly. Do this incorrectly and you will grind the gears but, when you get a feel for it, it seems easy! Note that this technique is not for 'high-strung', nervous or 'faint-hearted drivers.[emoji850]

I’m not that daring!! But this is good to know! [emoji6]


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Still waiting to hear back from the dealership [emoji19]


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Still waiting to hear back from the dealership [emoji19]

No pedal is exactly what happened to me when the clutch master cylinder failed once on my 1988 Mazda 626 GT. Was an easy DIY fix to replace the cylinder which was mounted to the firewall. But then, cars of that vintage were a lot simpler.