picture would help...

 

As Strega315 asked, please post a picture. It could be one of a hundred or more connections. Also, when it ran, was there a check engine light on? If yes, do you have any of the DTC's?

 

yes the check engine light was on when it ran and I don’t know about the DTC’s yet. I’ve been planning on checking the timing belt but the weather has been bad.

 

I'm looking at my 88 gts electrical manual (i know yours is an 89 but this is all I have) and that connector is for a VSV for the Fuel Pick Up near the passenger side of the fuel rail....one wire is black with red stripe and one is light green according to my manual.

 

That sure looks like a switch or sensor connector. It looks like it is a 2-wire connector. In that area of the engine, there is a water gauge temperature sensor (which I believe is a 1-wire connector), a knock sensor (which I also believe is a 1-wire connector), or an EGR Gas Temperature Sensor (which I don't think you have - would have been for California emissions vehicles only). I don't think that connector is used on VSV's (vacuum switching valves). If the length of wire involving that particular connector is short, you should be able to look in the area that wire length could cover to see if there is a mating male connector that is brown that is not connected - at least I would hope you can.

Was some work done recently to that engine where that connector may have been disconnected and someone forgot to reconnect it?

 

The guy I got it from had disconnected that one and a longer one that I finally found and connected, I wasn't there when he did it, he was attempting to work on it I guess.

 

I'm sure if you take a long & deep look at the engine within the area that wiring harness connector could reach (which probably isn't very large at all), you will find something that it fits on that isn't connected right now.

 

Though you may have something unplugged, also keep in mind that these cars were pre-wired for many different things that your car might not have.

My stock '91 GT-S has probably 10-15 different plugs in the engine bay that aren't used, as they're for different markets or options my car didn't have. I know for certain a handful of these are for A/C, as the cars are mostly pre-wired for that. But they're not part of the engine harness if that makes sense.

In fact, I see your car has A/C. There are two switches/sensors on the two lines that go to the firewall, in the vicinity of that plug. Somewhere between the right strut tower and the firewall. Might be hard to see under the ignition coil and strut bar.

I'll take a look at my car and see what's over there. My car has the Smallport, so might be a bit different. Like others have said, take a good look in that area, and underneath the intake manifold to see what's not plugged in.

 

Though you may have something unplugged, also keep in mind that these cars were pre-wired for many different things that your car might not have.

My stock '91 GT-S has probably 10-15 different plugs in the engine bay that aren't used, as they're for different markets or options my car didn't have. I know for certain a handful of these are for A/C, as the cars are mostly pre-wired for that. But they're not part of the engine harness if that makes sense.

Like others have said, take a good look in that area, and underneath the intake manifold to see what's not plugged in.

Yup, and if you look closely at the plugs, you'll see dirt and oil that means it might not have been plugged in at all. Most car companies do that, as they don't know what options will be installed on which vehicle at the time, until it's built. It's cheaper to build a "one size fits all" harness than it is to carry multiple harnesses in stock to replace or add what is needed for a particular option. Keep in mind some options that are "pre-wired" would be AC (on a non-AC car), cruise control, tach, temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and things like that. The wires would be there, just not used. I've seen it on many different makes and models over the years. Some GM's even had a full on engine harness that was set up for gauges, but used idiot lights. Both would be built into the same harness, and depending on the vehicle some of it may or may not be used. I should point out, that not all of these multiple model harnesses are just for the engine, but also for interior parts as well. Those could be for power door locks and or windows, electric trunk release, multiple speaker arrangements, and things like that too. Just because your car doesn't have it, doesn't mean it couldn't be ordered with it. Just my take on it, and I hope this helps.

 

You can try spraying into the intake some starting fluid. If it starts, it’s likely your fuel pump. Need to get a pressure gauge on the rail to see how much it’s holding.

 

I’ve tried spraying fluid in the intake, it doesn’t work. As for the cable (sensor connector?), I was told it might connect to the intake right there but if that’s true I’m missing whatever part is supposed to be there. As for connectors that go to things that can be added for interior or just extra things like you guys said, that makes a lot of sense. I’m just trying to figure out why it’s not starting at all now, and trying to get it running. I’m new, so thank you guys.

 

Does your chassis have a relay to control the fuel pump? What I’m suggesting, disconnect the fuel line to the hardline to the tank. Energize it to see if fuel is coming from the tank. This will isolate if it’s the fuel rail or the pump.

 

I have no clue

 

I didn't see much in beside the intake on my '91 GTS except for the A/C pressure switch connectors, alternator, and water temp sensor I believe. Only the A/C pressure switch had a two pin connector, but I was looking at it from the top. I can't remember what the alternator has.

Given that you already had it running, presumably without that plugged in, I would think it should run again.

Have you checked for spark? Always good to verify the basics first.

I would also crank the engine over for a few seconds. Then, pull your spark plugs out and see if they're all wet. If they are, and smell like gas, you should be getting fuel. Would also give you an indication if all four injectors are firing. It's a good opportunity to check the condition of them too.

Since you said your new to fixing cars, I would just advise to be careful not to cross thread your spark plugs when putting them back in. A trick I like to use is to set the plug onto the seat of the hole, then holding the socket extension by hand, I turn the plug to the left (as if I'm loosening) until I feel a slight click, and then start threading it in to the right by hand. This helps avoid cross threading, as you really don't want to damage those fine threads on your cylinder head.

 

I checked the spark, the gaps and the compression, that was all good. I was told it could either be fuel or timing.

 

Is that firewall brace new? I see where it appears the coil is mounted to it, if so the coil may get its ground through the frame, try adding a temporary ground wire under the mounting bolt and see if that helps.
Just my 2 cents worth
Later wd

 

others have already mentioned this but the coil needs a good ground on the strut brace. when you say the car doesnt run, do you mean it cranks but doesn't start or its completely dead? have you touched your distributor at all? if you did touch your distributor you may be off a tooth or the 2 wiring plugs might have a bad connection and may need resoldering. the distributor is right above the exhaust manifold so the plastics do tend to get hot and brittle. have you pulled a sparkplug out and actually visually confirmed that you have spark?

 

also, i looked up the connector in my electrical manual and it seems to be for the fuel pressure vsv. the manual says the connector is brown and the wire colors are black-red stripe and light green. i have attached a link to a parts diagram that you can use as a map to find out if you are missing any valves and if they are hooked up correctly.

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=516293&ukey_make=1060&ukey_model=15430&modelYear=1989&ukey_category=21648&ukey_driveLine=6624&ukey_trimLevel=18242

i think the connector thats unplugged is for part 17650